Rocketfish by Lian Li Aluminum Full Tower Case - first impressions

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Zepper

Elite Member
May 1, 2001
18,998
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Need to put some legs on it if you put a lot of weight up top - tippy as it is. The A70 or G70 legs would be an easy mod.

More notes: The 5" drive cage has twelve pop rivets (somehow I got the idea there were only 6, but those are just in front) there are six more - three on each side of the top. Still easier to remove them and pull the cage than trying to take a cross-brace out with the rivets in place. You'll need screws, nuts and lockwashers for remounting the top of the cage. The front already has threaded holes for screws.

.bh.
 

Cheezeit

Diamond Member
Apr 21, 2005
3,298
0
76
Great quick review of the case, Zepper!

I have this case and my first impressions are very good. Keep in mind that the case will be more stable as you fill it up, because most of the heavy components like the PSU and HDD's are located at the bottom.

I have yet to transfer my parts to this case though, but I'm looking forward to it. Seems like a great case to add watercooling to, and I'll put a window in the side.
 

Zepper

Elite Member
May 1, 2001
18,998
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Thanks for the kind words, Cheez.

Well, some have (or are planning to) modded in an extra PSU at the top along with a water cooling radiator. Adding some legs may help in those situations. IAC, the standard equipment feet are hard plastic junk and need to be replaced with something. If I was keeping one, I'd probably add the Temjin 9 feet from Performance-PCs to it as I don't think those would require any drilling, etc.

.bh.
 

Bluefront

Golden Member
Apr 20, 2002
1,466
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ericlp..... I filter all the cases I build for myself, and putting a filter on the bottom is the best way to get a big, easily removable filter. Normally I'd build an external housing that the case sat on, but since this case is so tall, that's out of the question. I expect to use some wider feet on the bottom, since this setup will be top-heavy. About 10" wide should be enough. I might construct some swing-out feet.....this case does need to be raised slightly for the bottom vent holes to actually do any good.

Most of the intake air to the filter chamber will come in through the bottom original PSU hole....some could come in through the bottom 1/2 of the original front fan hole, but I'd like to eliminate that for silencing reasons. The vent holes on the bottom of the case could be enlarged to let in some air.....only useful if the case is raised slightly. None-the-less, all the air entering the main part of the case will have to go through the big filter.

FWIW....to get a broad-band connection would cost me $100 a month right now. I'll wait for the phone company to install fiber optic out this way, then get DSL.
 

RKS

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 1999
6,824
3
81
I moved everything from my P180 and my temps have shot up about 7-10 degrees. The front fan is making a noise that sounds like a busted motor. It continues to make the sound regardless of if the blades are actually spinning.

I actually took the cpu/bracket fan and attached in to the motherboard to have some airflow over my ram. I am going to change out the fans. I have some Sanyo Denkeis (sp) and some orange YLs that I will use with a Rheobus or this case is going to get sold quickly so I can go back to a P180/P182.
 

EarthwormJim

Diamond Member
Oct 15, 2003
3,239
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76
It's not really a great case for air cooling. Only one real inlet, and one outlet.

I'd have stuck with the P180 since you're air cooling.
 

RKS

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 1999
6,824
3
81
Originally posted by: EarthwormJim
It's not really a great case for air cooling. Only one real inlet, and one outlet.

I'd have stuck with the P180 since you're air cooling.

NOW you tell me :| :laugh:

I just sold my P180 locally; now I have to wait for a nice P182 sale.

 

Zepper

Elite Member
May 1, 2001
18,998
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Exactly what temps went up so dramatically? Did you use the tips scattered thru the three main Rocketfish threads (the two here and one in Hot Deals)? I find it hard to believe that temps can rise so dramatically unless something is screwed up. My HDD started at around 21 this morning and always stops at 30 or 31 and doesn't go higher in normal use (drive mounted in front rack as rear gets little air). Sounds like your front fan is broken - get warranty replacement out of BB. I have a bundle of four temp probes all in the same spot for now. They started at 20 or 21 and only go to 23 or so in normal use. I'm going to be gathering some more temp data as soon as I can get one of the 3rd party monitor proggies to sync with my Asrock mobo. Turn the fan in the side duct around so it's an intake and then cut out the grill for it on the rear panel if you really need it to work well - it barely works at all as exhaust and works just a bit better as intake with the grill in place. See other tips.

.bh.
 

EarthwormJim

Diamond Member
Oct 15, 2003
3,239
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76
Originally posted by: RKS
Originally posted by: EarthwormJim
It's not really a great case for air cooling. Only one real inlet, and one outlet.

I'd have stuck with the P180 since you're air cooling.

NOW you tell me :| :laugh:

I just sold my P180 locally; now I have to wait for a nice P182 sale.

Not sure I'd go through that effort. Why don't you add some fans at the top back blowing in. Two 80mm fans should fit.

I think you could help your temperatures a bit if you achieved positive pressure in the case. It's really too big, and the fans aren't lined up well enough to get a nice cross-flow going.
 

manimal

Lifer
Mar 30, 2007
13,560
8
0
Walk in with just the fan and Id bet the CS at BB gives you a fan as a replacement. They once gave me off the shelf tricools to replace a few bad fans in 900 I bought for a friends build a while ago.
 

RKS

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 1999
6,824
3
81
Originally posted by: manimal
Walk in with just the fan and Id bet the CS at BB gives you a fan as a replacement. They once gave me off the shelf tricools to replace a few bad fans in 900 I bought for a friends build a while ago.


all the cases around here are still $120 (SW Ohio) and I got mine from a fellow ATer. I would hate to buy and return but I wonder if they'll let me exchange the fan without a receipt.
 

Zepper

Elite Member
May 1, 2001
18,998
0
0
Have the person you bought from send you a copy (scan and attach to email is the way I do it) of his receipt and write on it: Happy Birthday (your name) from Uncle (his name) and Aunt (her name if he has a wife). That'll do ya...

.bh.
 

RKS

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 1999
6,824
3
81
After disconnecting the fan from the motherboad 3-pin fan connector and attaching it to a molex connector; the noise is gone.
 
T

Tim

I went to my BB yesterday and notice they dropped the price to 47.99. None were on display, but I saw at least 3 of them way up top. I'm thinking about maybe swiping another one and using it for another project. Sure I'm happy with the work I did on the first one, but I know I can do better.
 

Rigomortis

Senior member
Nov 10, 1999
406
0
76
I picked one up on Tuesday for 48+ tax out the door. I love the case. I had a room full of the antec cases years ago and then went small all the way down to itx boxes. It has been so long to have room to just mount stuff.

My only gripe is I have an Enermax Liberty PSU that has a huge fan on one side... just so happens to be the down side in this case. I am going to go to the hardware store and get some large flat washers and get the thing turned around to use case air instead of carpeted air. I will have to undervolt the fans as my EVGA motherboard has alarms go off if the fans RPM's drop too low? (weird squealing noise) funny thing is my cpu temp remains about the same for the cramped mid tower I had before but it had better direct path air flow as the 120 fans were right next to the motherboard.

I have currently 2 HD's in the case a WD and Samsung and they are much quieter than the hum of the fans. I have Yate Loon orange fans in my other case I will have to move them over to see if they make a difference.
 

Zepper

Elite Member
May 1, 2001
18,998
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0
Very little bottom vent air will get to your PSU as those holes are very restrictive just like the grill on the side fan housing. It will mostly breathe air from the front fan.

.bh.
 

Jessica69

Senior member
Mar 11, 2008
501
0
0
As this seems to be the most appropriate thread about this case........I've been doing some painting on my case......


Case interior painted and partially reassembled.




Originally posted by: Zepper

More notes: The 5" drive cage has twelve pop rivets (somehow I got the idea there were only 6, but those are just in front) there are six more - three on each side of the top. Still easier to remove them and pull the cage than trying to take a cross-brace out with the rivets in place. You'll need screws, nuts and lockwashers for remounting the top of the cage. The front already has threaded holes for screws.

.bh.

I found an easier, albeit slightly more unsightly...maybe, way to remove the cross braces from the 5" cages, if you don't mind a couple of small holes remaining after you get the cross brace out.

If you look from inside the case, just in front of the front screws holding the cross brace in......the screws that are the problem to remove, there is an indentation/hole in the front of the chassis.....as you can see in the pic below.

Pic of indentation/hole in chassis.

What I did is drill from inside a pilot hole to the outside with a 1/16" drill bit. Granted it went though slighly off-kilter, but then I used that hole as a pilot to drill from the outside with a 1/8" drill bit......resulting in this hole:

Hole from outside with 1/8" bit.


This hole was large enough to pass a Phillips screwdriver through and unscrew the cross brace front screws......without having to drill out 12 rivets and replace them with screws.

Total time it took was maybe two minutes......including removing the brace's front screws. The holes will essentially be hidden by the front panel and shouldn't be noticeable from inside...unless you specifically go looking for them.

Just another option......




I did purchase from FrozenCPU a windowed, vented side panel by Lian-Li, the W-75BP panel. While I have done my own windows into panels before, I must say this is a very well made panel....and should be for the price.

Pic of side panel.....

Pic of reverse of side panel.....

What impressed me, in addition to how well it was made, was that Lian-Li put in metal support bars along several of the edges of the window, giving the whole window and panel a lot more strutctural rigidity, something missing on a lot of other windows, esp. large ones like this one.

Oh....and the panel fits like a glove.

The vent is nice although it doesn't quite match up with the rear vent fan that's mounted in that enclosure.....the vent is just a tad lower than the fan's enclosure, which isn't surprising since the panel is for the PC-71, PC-G70, and PC-A70 cases and those cases have a dual power supply option (top and bottom) while the Rocketfish case has the top ps option removed. Instead, Lian-Li shortened the upper space a bit (a power supply no longer fits without huge mods like cutting out the rear cross support bar from the case's chassis...if you don't cut out the upper bar, a power supply will interfere with the top of the I/O cutout structure and potentially the top of a motherboard....at least the power supplies I've test fit up there, including an Enhance ENP-5150GH and a Corsair HX620, both of which are pretty much standard size power supplies), and then added that space to the area between the top of the bottom power supply and the bottom of the motherboard's slots.



Since I'm watercooling with this case and using a Thermochill 120.3 radiator, I bought a Kikbox rad grille....about the only thing out there right now that fits a Thermochill radiator. I really didn't like the Mountain Mods grille at all and a TC grille is about as rare right now as hen's teeth.

Pic of grille.

This was about the most open grille I could find.....and while most of Kikbox's grilles are not TC compatible, this one is their "universal" grille, meaning it can fit a TC rad.....notice the slots on both end fan locations, giving the grille the ability to fit both TC rads and rads like Swiftech and others like that.
 

Zepper

Elite Member
May 1, 2001
18,998
0
0
Looks good. What paint did you use? Kind of hard to keep paint on aluminum as it has significant thermal expansion/contraction relative to many other metals.

.bh.
 

Jessica69

Senior member
Mar 11, 2008
501
0
0
I used some paint I found at, of all places, JoAnn's crafts store. It's 14K gold paint, and yes, it's real 14K gold....at least that's what the label says, along with some copper. So it's primarily metal, not normal enamel or lacquer paint. Something a little different and maybe will be more durable or longer lasting than normal enamel paint. Was worth a try anyway.
 

RKS

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 1999
6,824
3
81
Are there cheap tools to remove rivets or is it best to just drill them out?
 

Bluefront

Golden Member
Apr 20, 2002
1,466
0
0
Drill them out......1/8" drill. No sweat. I've never seen a different tool to do that job....
 

Zepper

Elite Member
May 1, 2001
18,998
0
0
Actually it is a 1/8" drill bit - unless L-L is using some weird Metric pop rivet... Sometimes you can knock the end off with a chisel or grind it off with a Dremel - usually more than one way to skin a cat... If you'll be reassembling with screws, lockwashers and nuts, then you don't have to be too careful. However, be very careful if you're going to try reriveting as any larger than a 1/8" hole and the rivet can easily pull thru - then you'll need longer rivets and backing plates. And use only aluminum rivets or long steel ones with backing plates on both sides. Steel ones will pull right thru Al w/o steel backing plates.

.bh.
 

Bluefront

Golden Member
Apr 20, 2002
1,466
0
0
Yeah they're 1/8" rivets. The only problem you might have drilling them out.....if the rivet comes loose and starts to spin with the drill. Then you'll have to grind or chisel the thing. Sometimes you can snip them off from behind with a side-cutter. It's usually an easy job to drill them however...
 
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