Build Complete Ryzen7 2700X/GB B450M DS3H and W10 upgrade giving me fits.

[Charlie98]

RE: DESK in sig below.

This is my primary desktop I built in 2011, I just replaced the 2500K with a new Ryzen 7 2700X, ASRock B450M mobo, and 2x16 Crucial Ballistic RAM. I also did a clean install of Windows 10... and I have had nothing but problems.

What I've done: Installed new hardware, booted up lickety split. Installed Windows 10 on low mileage SSD, SSD tests good in previous use, and using other utilities. Installed mobo drivers (ASRock only has 2 RealTek drivers for this board...) and CPU drivers (AMD has 6 chipset drivers delivered in a single download.) Once I got it going, I installed all the software I was using on my previous install... all as new installs using the latest downloads, or loaded from CD's. I installed the OS with only the SSD attached. I am using the OEM CPU cooler and a CPU temp monitor... my temps are 35-45C. Memory is in slots A2/B2 as per the instructions. I am running the Ryzen power profile in Windows, including 90% minimum power state.

What it's doing: The entire system is laggy. Some programs operate like they should (QuickBooks, for example,) and some utilities (like Crystal Disk, antivirus programs, Firefox and Thunderbird.) There are some programs that refuse to work... Acronis being one. The odd thing is how long it takes to open... I'll click on an icon, get the control window, and... nothing. For 4 or 5 minutes. Then it will open... sometimes, sometimes not. Programs indicate 'not responding' a LOT... sometimes they crash, sometimes they come back. Even opening This PC to look at the drives... it takes the system 1 minute to populate.

The newest thing to show up is... after switching in a new SATA cable... it won't boot into Windows automatically, I have to F11 and select the SSD for boot. I've tried to change it in the BIOS, but the BIOS doesn't see it, now... but it does when it starts???

What have I tried: Well... I reloaded the OS, again... thinking I got a borked install the first time. The second install is worse. I've switched the SATA cable. I've benched the drives. I've stress-tested the CPU. I've benched the GPU. I've not checked the memory... I don't have a good utility for Ryzen/Windows 10... but I don't think it's that... but I'm open to suggestions.

This is my first major upgrade since 2011... and to AMD with Windows 10. I thought it would be easy... at least as easy as all my Intel/Gigabyte/W7 systems were, this thing is turning into a nightmare.

 

[Markfw]

RE: DESK in sig below.

This is my primary desktop I built in 2011, I just replaced the 2500K with a new Ryzen 7 2700X, ASRock B450M mobo, and 2x16 Crucial Ballistic RAM. I also did a clean install of Windows 10... and I have had nothing but problems.

What I've done: Installed new hardware, booted up lickety split. Installed Windows 10 on low mileage SSD, SSD tests good in previous use, and using other utilities. Installed mobo drivers (ASRock only has 2 RealTek drivers for this board...) and CPU drivers (AMD has 6 chipset drivers delivered in a single download.) Once I got it going, I installed all the software I was using on my previous install... all as new installs using the latest downloads, or loaded from CD's. I installed the OS with only the SSD attached. I am using the OEM CPU cooler and a CPU temp monitor... my temps are 35-45C. Memory is in slots A2/B2 as per the instructions. I am running the Ryzen power profile in Windows, including 90% minimum power state.

What it's doing: The entire system is laggy. Some programs operate like they should (QuickBooks, for example,) and some utilities (like Crystal Disk, antivirus programs, Firefox and Thunderbird.) There are some programs that refuse to work... Acronis being one. The odd thing is how long it takes to open... I'll click on an icon, get the control window, and... nothing. For 4 or 5 minutes. Then it will open... sometimes, sometimes not. Programs indicate 'not responding' a LOT... sometimes they crash, sometimes they come back. Even opening This PC to look at the drives... it takes the system 1 minute to populate.

The newest thing to show up is... after switching in a new SATA cable... it won't boot into Windows automatically, I have to F11 and select the SSD for boot. I've tried to change it in the BIOS, but the BIOS doesn't see it, now... but it does when it starts???

What have I tried: Well... I reloaded the OS, again... thinking I got a borked install the first time. The second install is worse. I've switched the SATA cable. I've benched the drives. I've stress-tested the CPU. I've benched the GPU. I've not checked the memory... I don't have a good utility for Ryzen/Windows 10... but I don't think it's that... but I'm open to suggestions.

This is my first major upgrade since 2011... and to AMD with Windows 10. I thought it would be easy... at least as easy as all my Intel/Gigabyte/W7 systems were, this thing is turning into a nightmare.

Well, I think I was right on IO, BUT the red light came on when you said the motherboard doesn't see it. Have you loaded the latest BIOS ?

 

[Flayed]

I would reseat the memory, actually try with one stick, set to 2933Mhz in the bios. Also update the bios as Mark said.

 

[Charlie98]

It came with the latest BIOS... it was one of the first things I checked. I thought about reflashing it...

I thought about the memory... I've never had memory problems, so I don't know what they look like. Unfortunately, I don't have any other DDR4 to try, so I'll pull one stick and see.

 

[Charlie98]

Along the lines of the RAM... I've got Crucial Ballistix LT, 2x16GB 3200 in particular. I"m looking through the ASRock memory QVL... and although there is the same basic RAM listed, none of it is 3200... although there are other vendors listed with 3200+ memory.

 

[Charlie98]

Update #1

Pulled one stick of RAM, running a single stick in A1... no change.

Flashed updated BIOS, v3.9, from v3.6, even though it says it's not necessary. No change.

It still won't boot directly into Windows 10, I have to F11 and select to get it there. I also changed the SATA cable, again... and tried a different port. No change.

 

[Steltek]

It came with the latest BIOS... it was one of the first things I checked. I thought about reflashing it...

I wonder it it might be worth trying to downgrade the BIOS one step. I've read about a lot of folks who have had random issues with AGESA 1.0.0.4 patch b (not necessarily with your board, but in general).

I know you're not running a Ryzen 3, but they apparently messed around with a significant amount of stuff geared towards Ryzen 3 performance issues.

 

[Markfw]

Update #1

Pulled one stick of RAM, running a single stick in A1... no change.

Flashed updated BIOS, v3.9, from v3.6, even though it says it's not necessary. No change.

It still won't boot directly into Windows 10, I have to F11 and select to get it there. I also changed the SATA cable, again... and tried a different port. No change.

The fact that it will boot using F11, but you have to use that signifies some kind of BIOS problem IMO. Trying different bios versions may help.

 

[Charlie98]

I wonder it it might be worth trying to downgrade the BIOS one step. I've read about a lot of folks who have had random issues with AGESA 1.0.0.4 patch b (not necessarily with your board, but in general).

Well... it came with v3.6... I'd have to go down to v3.5. It looks like v3.6 is the update to v3.5... but I'm willing to try anything...

 

[Steltek]

Regarding memory, if you don't have anything else, at least give the built in Windows memory diagnostic a run to see if it finds any issues in lieu of a more comprehensive test.

Also, did you ever reset the CMOS memory at any time after you installed the board or flashed the BIOS?

Finally, is Fast Boot enabled in the BIOS? If so, it might be worth trying to disable it.

 

[Arkaign]

https://www.tenforums.com/performance-maintenance/81345-pc-wont-boot-when-i-remove-secondary-hard-drive.html

This may sound bizarre, but it's also a very good idea to install Windows with ONLY the desired SSD or boot device connected. You can use a boot admin command prompt to run DISKPART, LIST DISK, SELECT DISC 0, 1, etc, CLEAN, EXIT, EXIT.

Depending on the order that the motherboard is identifying drives, installing Windows with other drives connected can lead them to be dependent (and thus a failure point) of the boot process, even removing a spare drive as the above link describes.

 

[Arkaign]

Note : the DISKPART section above is simply for truly clearing a drive of all partition info before a fresh try, should you decide to give that another go.

 

[Charlie98]

I noted above that I loaded the OS with only the SSD attached... a habit leftover from my W7 days...

 

[Charlie98]

Regarding memory, if you don't have anything else, at least give the built in Windows memory diagnostic a run to see if it finds any issues in lieu of a more comprehensive test.

Also, did you ever reset the CMOS memory at any time after you installed the board or flashed the BIOS?

Finally, is Fast Boot enabled in the BIOS? If so, it might be worth trying to disable it.

fast boot is disabled... it completely skipped over the OS drive when I enabled it. I have not reset the CMOS...

I hadn’t thought of the mem diagnostic, I’ll run it when I get home.

 

[Arkaign]

Hmm, at this point I'd recommend finding a helpful volunteer from AT forums who has the same or nearly identical motherboard, and go over every page and sub-section of th Bios to compare settings (obviously outside of minor variances with RAM and CPU clocks/timings). Try a full copy of someone's known good configuration. It does sound slightly busted. There are actually a ton of BIOS settings that can (rarely) get screwed up, which are entirely hidden from the UI. I used to use KillCmos to utterly wipe to defaults, but I don't think it works anymore.

 

[Ajay]

Is the firmware up to date on the MX500?

 

[Charlie98]

Is the firmware up to date on the MX500?

It is.

Oddly enough, I have 2 MX500's... the other one is in my HTPC. I looked at it this morning to verify they both had updated FM (they did...) and I noticed that according to CrystalDisk, the HTPC's drive is down to 94% life... this with only 1400 hours and 4.3TB of writes. I have other drives with over 10000 hours and more writes that show 99 or 100% life. Just interesting, and I'm now questioning my choice of the MX drive. My previous desktop drive is a M550... I have never had one lick of problems with it.

 

[Arkaign]

Are you running Plex or another transcoding type service on the HTPC? That can be rough on storage sometimes. I run a JBOD using Drivebender for my HTPC, which allows me to freely mix a bunch of drives to get to my 20TB+ on a single drive letter and share it at high speed, but also can pick and choose by folder which I want always duplicated across multiple drives in case of a failure.

 

[Charlie98]

Hmm, at this point I'd recommend finding a helpful volunteer from AT forums who has the same or nearly identical motherboard,

Well... I haven't touched the BIOS... it's strictly stock at this point, besides flashing it. I'm going to run the memory diagnostic, and clear the CMOS... and if I don't get some sort of results from that... it's going back to MicroCenter.

 

[Arkaign]

Well... I haven't touched the BIOS... it's strictly stock at this point, besides flashing it. I'm going to run the memory diagnostic, and clear the CMOS... and if I don't get some sort of results from that... it's going back to MicroCenter.

Out of curiosity, which Micro Center?

 

[Charlie98]

Are you running Plex or another transcoding type service on the HTPC? That can be rough on storage sometimes. I run a JBOD using Drivebender for my HTPC, which allows me to freely mix a bunch of drives to get to my 20TB+ on a single drive letter and share it at high speed, but also can pick and choose by folder which I want always duplicated across multiple drives in case of a failure.

No... the HTPC is just a streamer, I transcode everything on the bigger (formerly i5) desktop, and just transfer the finished files to 2 storage HDD's in the HTPC (one primary, one backup.) The HTPC has actually been put into PC duty as well, for my wife, so it's seeing more use, but nothing that would punish the SSD like that. I may just clone the OS back onto the Intel 120GB SSD the MX500 replaced.

 

[Charlie98]

Out of curiosity, which Micro Center?

I forgot, the new format doesn't have our location. Dallas.

 

[Arkaign]

Ah cool. I'm also in DFW. I probably have a spare SSD I could loan you to rule out the MX500. I had a spare 2700X from before the 3700X, but gifted that already.

 

[Charlie98]

I've got 2 extra 120GB SSDs I could test drive, just to see, but thank you.

MC has a Gigabyte DS3H that I was also considering. GB has a wonky BIOS, sometimes, and I was trying to avoid that with the ASRock. My previous ASRock board, a cheapo H81, is still rocking 8 years later... so I thought it was a good choice. Someone already bought the ASUS board I was looking at, also. I snoozed, I loozed.

 

[Arkaign]

Yeah, man it's so model by model these days. I usually have had great results with Gigabyte despite the complaints, but my Aorus Gaming 7 Z370 wasn't as good as it should have been. This ASrock Phantom 9 is superb. And despite some initial Bios goblins with Zen2, my MSI Taichi Ryzen board has been really good.

Ah well, if one works poorly, heck try a different one.