Should I buy a new car or get mine fixed??

[thatsright]

I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with 125K miles. I’m on the fence if I should get my current car fixed, or buy a new one. I have about another 8 months of payments left on it. My monthly car payment is $235. In the beginning it was great and few/no issues. But now I need to plow some serious money into it and I’m not sure if it’s worth it anymore.

A few of the detracting items:

-Front driver side axle needs replacement. The whole care vibrates and very loud when driving. Est $500 repair.
-Rear bumper damaged and needs replacement. I also accidentally backed into a light post, so right behind the gas tank door is an obvious and deep scrape/indentation on the frame. Est $600 repair.
-New muffler needed. Est $350
-New Tires. I may be able to get through the winter with my current 4 tires. But in the spring I will need to buy 4 new ties. $600-700.
-Bad driver side window motor. Takes 30 seconds for the window to screechingly roll down. Embarrassing. Not high on list to pay to get fixed.
-Center console (arm rest) has detached. Not willing to pay $250 Nissan dealership to have fixed.
-Driver seat motor dead. Cannot adjust the back rest forward/backward. About $200 to fix. Probably won’t get it fixed.
-Bose audio system not sounding so great as it use to.
-General scratches/dings around the car from city parking/driving.

The big pluses to my car:

-Acceleration handling still like when it was new. Amazing.
-Not a new car loan. Would be cheaper if no big issues (=big repair bills) came up in the future.

Kelly Blue Book lists my car in ‘fair’ condition as $3600 in private party sale. Though if I hope of selling it in a private party sale I will need to spend the minimum $1500 before anyone would consider it. The title is not clean with 3 accidents since I’ve had it. KBB suggests $2300 for trade in value in fair condition.

Several folks suggest to just get a new car. If I do, I’d like to get a used car that is between 3-5 years old with a $15k budget. On the other hand if I just spend $1500 or so in the next few weeks then I should fix the main issues with my car. BOTOH, I’ve already plowed so much in it over the last few years and it has been a money pit. In general, fiances are tight. But is getting a new car cheaper than dealing with my Maxima?


A few pics:

 

[dpodblood]

Holy shit this is eerie... I also have a 2000 maxima with major issues, which I still owe $3300 on. I am trading it tonight for a brand new 2010 Kia Forte.

 

[SearchMaster]

My 2000 Maxima was rock solid at 215K miles until it was rear-ended and totaled a year ago.

I did laugh at this because mine had the EXACT same behavior, but it never bothered me enough to fix it.

Bad driver side window motor. Takes 30 seconds for the window to screechingly roll down. Embarrassing. Not high on list to pay to get fixed.

If you've had that many problems I'd probably get something else. Your car would be ideal for someone like a friend of mine who buys these "mechanic's specials" for cheap then puts a few hundred bucks in and doubles the value.

 

[tbike06]

Fix the axle and the muffler. $350 for a muffler? You should be able to get a local place to get you one for $100 to 150. I bet you could fix the window motor/ track by yourself for $50 to $60. It shouldn't be that hard. Tires are a normal wear item.

 

[halik]

I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with 125K miles. I’m on the fence if I should get my current car fixed, or buy a new one. I have about another 8 months of payments left on it. My monthly car payment is $235. In the beginning it was great and few/no issues. But now I need to plow some serious money into it and I’m not sure if it’s worth it anymore.

A few of the detracting items:

-Front driver side axle needs replacement. The whole care vibrates and very loud when driving. Est $500 repair.
-Rear bumper damaged and needs replacement. I also accidentally backed into a light post, so right behind the gas tank door is an obvious and deep scrape/indentation on the frame. Est $600 repair.
-New muffler needed. Est $350
-New Tires. I may be able to get through the winter with my current 4 tires. But in the spring I will need to buy 4 new ties. $600-700.
-Bad driver side window motor. Takes 30 seconds for the window to screechingly roll down. Embarrassing. Not high on list to pay to get fixed.
-Center console (arm rest) has detached. Not willing to pay $250 Nissan dealership to have fixed.
-Driver seat motor dead. Cannot adjust the back rest forward/backward. About $200 to fix. Probably won’t get it fixed.
-Bose audio system not sounding so great as it use to.
-General scratches/dings around the car from city parking/driving.

The big pluses to my car:

-Acceleration handling still like when it was new. Amazing.
-Not a new car loan. Would be cheaper if no big issues (=big repair bills) came up in the future.

Kelly Blue Book lists my car in ‘fair’ condition as $3600 in private party sale. Though if I hope of selling it in a private party sale I will need to spend the minimum $1500 before anyone would consider it. The title is not clean with 3 accidents since I’ve had it. KBB suggests $2300 for trade in value in fair condition.

Several folks suggest to just get a new car. If I do, I’d like to get a used car that is between 3-5 years old with a $15k budget. On the other hand if I just spend $1500 or so in the next few weeks then I should fix the main issues with my car. BOTOH, I’ve already plowed so much in it over the last few years and it has been a money pit. In general, fiances are tight. But is getting a new car cheaper than dealing with my Maxima?


A few pics:

That car is worth like 1500 bucks. If even that.

Get junkyard parts and DIY, the cheapest/best solution. There's no good way to fix that quarter panel with a bunch of bondo and repaint.

 

[thatsright]

Holy shit this is eerie... I also have a 2000 maxima with major issues, which I still owe $3300 on. I am trading it tonight for a brand new 2010 Kia Forte.

How much are you getting for the trade in?

 

[boomhower]

That car is trashed! If you trade it in I would be surprised if they offered more than $1k. If finances are tight and the motor/tranny is good then I would fix the axle and muffler and just drive it till it dies.

Does your AC work? Then screw the window. If the seat where you normally drive? Then screw the seat motor. The body work is a waste of money. If you get quality work done you are not going to get your money back when you sell.

Unless those are 18's you should be able to get some cheaper rubber to run around in.

At this point the cars a beater, no point in trying to make it pretty.

 

[T2urtle]

if you want to keep this... sounds like VERY easy fixes.

your driver seat motor. Used seats cost like $100-250 on maxima.org get lucky and find a local. 4 bolts and a couple of connectors that are plug and play. plus you dont have that nasty rip and etc.

Axles for the maxima cost about $60 for reman at any local store, autozone,napa, pepboys. Its a no brainer type of job anyone can do it. Took me an hour to do drivers. since it doesn't have that bracket like on the pass side. You can pay someone $150 to do it. Overall this job should be a $250 fix MAX.

Exhaust... i dont know local prices but just have them make you one ...

tires... looks like you have 17 or 18's cheapest all-season tire should be about $100 a peice.

might be worth it to keep it. your $1500 you plan on spending could be trimmed down to about half if you know where to look and get lucky with parts.

 

[CraigRT]

Keep it. VQ30 is a gem. They last forever.
Very easy to fix all of those things, the prices are typical bend me over shop prices.

 

[T2urtle]

the VQ30DE is a little bit better then a VQ30DE-K that he has... But i do agree very cheap to fix. If it was me, i would be able to take care of all the issues minus dents/dings and tires for like $600 or so.

 

[shortylickens]

Normally I would say Nissans hold their value and you should make the effort to keep it, but will all those issues I would toss the thing.

My Chevy S-10 has fewer problems but believe me if I could get rid of it and get something else I sure would. Dont have the money unfortunately.

I think you did alright. 10 years at 12,000 miles a year is pretty good these days. Most cars dont survive that long. Dont feel guilty about moving on. Shit, get another Maxima. Current opinion says they are better than ever.

 

[dpodblood]

How much are you getting for the trade in?

I got practically nothing on my trade in since the car has problems, and has 240km's on it, but I am happy with getting a little money for it, and them buying out the rest of the loan.

 

[RKS]

I had a 2002 Maxima SE (3.5VQ 6mt) with about 140K miles and the local Infiniti dealer offered us $2500 for trade-in. It was in immaculate shape compared to yours.

 

[CraigRT]

the VQ30DE is a little bit better then a VQ30DE-K that he has... But i do agree very cheap to fix. If it was me, i would be able to take care of all the issues minus dents/dings and tires for like $600 or so.

There is nothing wrong with the DE-K at all.. My folks have a 2K and that thing is rock solid.

 

[Bartman39]

I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with 125K miles.

Get a gun start knocking off liquor stores with that car...:biggrin:


On paper they will make it look like its worth mucho $$$ but to them it doesnt really even matter what it looks like... Sounds like time for a new car...:thumbsup:

 

[the DRIZZLE]

I'd fix the axle and the muffler. You should be able to get tires in the spring for under $500. If you were planning on buying a new(ish) car in the next year or so anyway I'd say let it go. But based on the fact that you owe $2000 on a 2000 Maxima I'm guessing your not rolling in cash. (no offense)

 

[Spicedaddy]

I'd fix the axle and muffler, and try to find used tires. Forget about the body work and gadgets, just drive it till it dies.

 

[exdeath]

I think you are trying to justify wanting a new car. If you want a new car get one, otherwise fix this one.

The only serious repair here is the body damage, and not because it's bad, but because you'll have to pay someone to do it (body and paint work sucks, not something to DIY).

That CV axle shouldn't be more than $75, not $500. Likewise for other parts. Should be plenty of white 2000 Maxima wrecks being parted out. That bumper won't be repaired, just replace it from a donor car of the same color. Seat you should be able to find a new cover, OEM just uses cloth or leather covers on the same seat when they option them out. If you have to get a seat from a parts car, you knock out your motor and torn cover. Misc parts like window and seat motors, trim pieces, console lids, etc you can pick off a parts car, just keep an eye out on craigslist, ebay, etc, you'll be able to snag almost everything in your list for $25 to $100 each.

Other things you have on that list are just padding to try and convince yourself you need a new car. Tires for example... tires are an expendable, like oil changes, and you will be buying them regularly on a new car as well.

Keep that car, fix it up, use it as a beater then save up for a really awesome car that you won't have to compromise on because you'll already have a daily driver beater that you won't care too much about.

 

[Meghan54]

I got practically nothing on my trade in since the car has problems, and has 240km's on it, but I am happy with getting a little money for it, and them buying out the rest of the loan.

Buying out the loan? ROFL! They just rolled what you owed into your new loan.....so now you're paying for two vehicles for whatever the loan length is for your new vehicle.

But as it is said, sucker born every minute.

 

[Vette73]

1 -Front driver side axle needs replacement. The whole care vibrates and very loud when driving. Est $500 repair.
2 -Rear bumper damaged and needs replacement. I also accidentally backed into a light post, so right behind the gas tank door is an obvious and deep scrape/indentation on the frame. Est $600 repair.
3 -New muffler needed. Est $350
4 -New Tires. I may be able to get through the winter with my current 4 tires. But in the spring I will need to buy 4 new ties. $600-700.
5 -Bad driver side window motor. Takes 30 seconds for the window to screechingly roll down. Embarrassing. Not high on list to pay to get fixed.
6 -Center console (arm rest) has detached. Not willing to pay $250 Nissan dealership to have fixed.
7 -Driver seat motor dead. Cannot adjust the back rest forward/backward. About $200 to fix. Probably won’t get it fixed.
8 -Bose audio system not sounding so great as it use to.
9 -General scratches/dings around the car from city parking/driving.

I use to be a autotech and ran my own shop at the end here is what I think...

1. $500? WTF. Where was that at the dealer? When i had my shop I charged about $80 plus parts. So usually around $150 installed for a new FWD axle. Even with time I can;t see most shops charging more than $250 for that job. Hell drive to the shop in my backyard and I'll do it now for $200. i.e. call around should be half the number you gave unless it includes other things.

2. Highly doubt you did any frame damage, at least major. Go to junk yard and get a bumper cover from another maxima (look for a white one). Not to hard to remove and when you remove just watch where everythign goes. Reinstall and enjoy.

3. hard to say without looking. Again price seems high unless its the dealer or you need a lot of custom pipe. Again get a lto more estimates. Mufflers for most cars are cheap.

4. What size are you running? There are 3 majro sites I look at now for tires. Tires.com, treaddepot.com, and tirerack.com. Should be able to get a good set cheaper.

5. Not a hard fix. Get a new motor from rockauto.com or ADV/AZ and install. Not to bad a job but will eat up soem time if you never done before.

6. Get another at junkyard when you get the rear bumper cover. Easy fix.

7. Check prices for a new one from RA/ADV/AZ and if to high again pick up at junkyard.

8. Maybe bad speakers? Get a cheap pair from wal-mart, ebay, etc...

9. Get some Meguiar’s Paint Cleaner and use that. Great stuff and then wax with what ever you got after that.
http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+A3016



I hate car payments and pay cash for my cars so I say keep it, esp since you are about paid off. No car payment is NICE!!!

 

[dpodblood]

Buying out the loan? ROFL! They just rolled what you owed into your new loan.....so now you're paying for two vehicles for whatever the loan length is for your new vehicle.

But as it is said, sucker born every minute.

Hey asshat; you think I don't know that!? I am fully aware of what happened. You don't know the history of the car and all the problems it's had, and all the problems it currently has. Thanks for presuming to know my situation better than me though...

 

[bruceb]

Time for a new car. Yours is 10 years old, needs a lot of expensive work, including body to look decent and you still owe $1880 to the bank.

 

[the DRIZZLE]

Time for a new car. Yours is 10 years old, needs a lot of expensive work, including body to look decent and you still owe $1880 to the bank.

What he owes to the bank is irrelevant. He has to pay that either way. Body work is only relevant if he cares.

 

[fleshconsumed]

Given that you still owe on this car you're probably not in a position to get a new one. From the problems you've described it sounds like most of them are "cosmetical" or near cosmetical and that the drivetrain is still good. Fix axle, fix muffler, those two pieces are essential to keep the car on the road. Both of those fixes should also be cheaper than you quoted if you shop around. Tires, as long as they are not bald, just drive slower, more carefully, take less chances. Everything else is not essential to keep the car running and can be fixed pretty cheaply DIY style.

 

[dpodblood]

Guess it depends on your DIY car repair skills. I know a major expense for me was labor getting my car worked on. I don't have the skills, space, or tools to work on a car, which is why I went new this time around.

It also depends how much you owe on your car, and how much you can get on a trade in. In my case, even with the remaining balance, I'm only paying $55 per month extra due to the rolled up loan. Plus now I am paying 0% interest, as opposed to the 12% I was paying on my max (I was fresh out of school with no credit when I bought it).