So I picking up a e46

[Denly]

Have been hunting for a car to replace my aging B5.5 1.8t Passat(nice car btw) with 250k km or 155k miles the last couple month because I don't want to spend tons on TB/tires/brakes/drive shaft/ABS module..etc.

All unit in Canadian dollar what is $0.75US right now for you American friends.

My budget was 10k top and under 150k km, I prefer EU brands, manual, leather, hatchback or wagon. This combination is extremely hard to come by. Tested a dozen or so cars then I come across a 2002 325xi with 55k km original mileage, leather, sedan, body in mint condition and manual for $5600cad or $4200US.

Not ideal but I think is a very good deal, wish me good luck(I know what I am getting into btw).

first order is engine oil, tranny oil and diff oil change.

 

[SSSnail]

Wow, that's very low mileage for that year. The E46s in general are bulletproof, visit E46fanatics and look up the required interval maintenance items. If you take care of those properly, it'll last you forever.

My E46 right now have about 150K miles on it, still running as strong as ever. I will need to replace a belt tensioner soon. Other than that, nothing else.

 

[Denly]

Wow, that's very low mileage for that year. The E46s in general are bulletproof, visit E46fanatics and look up the required interval maintenance items. If you take care of those properly, it'll last you forever.

My E46 right now have about 150K miles on it, still running as strong as ever. I will need to replace a belt tensioner soon. Other than that, nothing else.

Yet, I think I got a good deal. Good to heard they're bulletproof, the E36 I had was pita.

BTW is there a way to add AUX? Have not do my research yet.

 

[SSSnail]

Yet, I think I got a good deal. Good to heard they're bulletproof, the E36 I had was pita.

BTW is there a way to add AUX? Have not do my research yet.

Yes, there's a ton of articles and DIY and Youtube videos for them.

 

[halik]

Great cars, but you will get subframe failure one way or another.

 

[ballmode]

Window motors, subframe tears, and some occasional maintenance intervals of the engine need addressed

 

[Subyman]

I just renovated a e46 coupe. I bought it about 10 years ago and then passed it along to my brother. He recently got a new car and sent the e46 back my way. He wasn't a great keeper of the car, so I had a lot of cosmetic work to do to it.

Engines and transmissions are very stout. Do regular maintenance and it will last a long time. The German inline-6's are probably one of the best motors out there.

Watch for headliner separation. The glue they used easily breaks down. Check the rubber seal along the bottom of the windshield. Those are prone to dry rot, but easy to replace. Make sure all the seals around the doors are still tight and look for signs of an amateur re-glue. Test all the windows for proper operation. The BMW emblem is prone to wear, but can be replaced easily for $30USD. Make sure the clutch engages somewhere in the middle of the clutch movement. If it is engaging near the end of your stroke then a costly clutch swap could be in the future, but stock clutches are known to go 200k miles.

Sounds like you might have a gem on your hands! I bought mine with only 33k miles, older adult owned.

 

[k3n]

Have been hunting for a car to replace my aging B5.5 1.8t Passat(nice car btw) with 250k km or 155k miles the last couple month because I don't want to spend tons on TB/tires/brakes/drive shaft/ABS module..etc.

All unit in Canadian dollar what is $0.75US right now for you American friends.

My budget was 10k top and under 150k km, I prefer EU brands, manual, leather, hatchback or wagon. This combination is extremely hard to come by. Tested a dozen or so cars then I come across a 2002 325xi with 55k km original mileage, leather, sedan, body in mint condition and manual for $5600cad or $4200US.

Not ideal but I think is a very good deal, wish me good luck(I know what I am getting into btw).

first order is engine oil, tranny oil and diff oil change.

[begin flame war]
LOL, good luck with $3000-$5000 USD annual maintenance on the BMW. There's a reason these cars have low resale value. Most cars built after 1995 can last 200,000 with the original transmission and engine, it's a bigger matter of how much leakage and electrical problems will arise.

If you enjoy fixing your own car and have a 2nd means of transportation, these 'over engineered' German cars could be a great deal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPJ64sTa7KI
[/end flame war]

 

[Subyman]

[begin flame war]
LOL, good luck with $3000-$5000 USD annual maintenance on the BMW. There's a reason these cars have low resale value.[/end flame war]

I've never seen that from the e46 I've had. The biggest repair ever done on it was a bent front A arm from my brother running it over a parking beam. It has 160k miles right now with just simple oil changes and scheduled maintenance. The OPs car only has 55k.

 

[Denly]

Got the car, first impressions.

The ride is very tight under all situation, no concern.
The brake is nice and firm, no worry there.
The clutch in fair shape but not forgiving, I have never stall so many times(4) in my 20+yrs of gear shift
It need a short shifter badly
Compare to my Passat VW tranny feel more "precise"
Never though I would say this, at low rpm 1.8t is more "drive able"
Passat has the best leather seat ever

Can anyone comment on how xi awd behave? The last time I drove an AWD was 90s Subaru and I spun everytime I push in the snow.

 

[Denly]

[begin flame war]
LOL, good luck with $3000-$5000 USD annual maintenance on the BMW. There's a reason these cars have low resale value. Most cars built after 1995 can last 200,000 with the original transmission and engine, it's a bigger matter of how much leakage and electrical problems will arise.

If you enjoy fixing your own car and have a 2nd means of transportation, these 'over engineered' German cars could be a great deal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPJ64sTa7KI
[/end flame war]

With the EU cars I ever own, e36, e46, Passat, Jetta, mini and LR3, the only one that "may" need a annual big bill was the cooper S. Even if you do everything in dealership that SOB still won't cost 3-5k every year.

 

[Subyman]

Got the car, first impressions.

The ride is very tight under all situation, no concern.
The brake is nice and firm, no worry there.
The clutch in fair shape but not forgiving, I have never stall so many times(4) in my 20+yrs of gear shift
It need a short shifter badly
Compare to my Passat VW tranny feel more "precise"
Never though I would say this, at low rpm 1.8t is more "drive able"
Passat has the best leather seat ever

Can anyone comment on how xi awd behave? The last time I drove an AWD was 90s Subaru and I spun everytime I push in the snow.

I'm not sure about the 3-series, but I've put a lot of miles behind a 2010 528xi. I've driven it in 6-7 inches of snow without a problem at slower speeds. The traction is great and if I buy another BMW in the future the x-drive is something I'd seriously consider.

As for how it works, it is true AWD all the time. Normal split is bias to the rear, but all tires see torque at all times. Then it shifts torque around dynamically depending on the situation. I love how it handles.

 

[Denly]

Great cars, but you will get subframe failure one way or another.

hmm, will need to do some reading on it. Rust related?

 

[Denly]

I'm not sure about the 3-series, but I've put a lot of miles behind a 2010 528xi. I've driven it in 6-7 inches of snow without a problem at slower speeds. The traction is great and if I buy another BMW in the future the x-drive is something I'd seriously consider.

As for how it works, it is true AWD all the time. Normal split is bias to the rear, but all tires see torque at all times. Then it shifts torque around dynamically depending on the situation. I love how it handles.

Was hoping it is RWD then Front kick in if needed, well at least it is rear bias.

 

[SSSnail]

hmm, will need to do some reading on it. Rust related?

Nah, not "one way or another" as he puts it. It depends on how it was driven, but it's not a definite that it will fail. The subframes on the E46 M3s see more stress fractures because of the added power and torque, not so much the regular E46.

There's a bulletin out a while back that you can take your car into the dealer for a free inspection. I had mine done a few years ago and it was good to go, no need for reinforcement.

I made a thread about this issue here http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=301316. Don't know if you can still do that since it's been a long time.

Was hoping it is RWD then Front kick in if needed, well at least it is rear bias.

I believe it's 20/80 RWD biased and adjusts on the fly.

 

[AgentUnknown]

Great cars. The only thing about this car is the electronics.

 

[halik]

[begin flame war]
LOL, good luck with $3000-$5000 USD annual maintenance on the BMW. There's a reason these cars have low resale value. Most cars built after 1995 can last 200,000 with the original transmission and engine, it's a bigger matter of how much leakage and electrical problems will arise.

If you enjoy fixing your own car and have a 2nd means of transportation, these 'over engineered' German cars could be a great deal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPJ64sTa7KI
[/end flame war]

Clearly the dumbest thing posted in this thread; I'm gonna guess another camry/civic/altima "car enthusiast" owner?


$3-5K a year is probably what you burn maintaining a a vintage M1. I've got two v10 german sedans and neither has run anywhere near that.

 

[halik]

Nah, not "one way or another" as he puts it. It depends on how it was driven, but it's not a definite that it will fail. The subframes on the E46 M3s see more stress fractures because of the added power and torque, not so much the regular E46.

There's a bulletin out a while back that you can take your car into the dealer for a free inspection. I had mine done a few years ago and it was good to go, no need for reinforcement.

I made a thread about this issue here http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=301316. Don't know if you can still do that since it's been a long time.


I believe it's 20/80 RWD biased and adjusts on the fly.

Both my M3 and my brother's 325 coupe (stick suspension on both) developed subframe cracks; It's just a poorly engineered part of the car.

 

[k3n]

Clearly the dumbest thing posted in this thread; I'm gonna guess another camry/civic/altima "car enthusiast" owner?


$3-5K a year is probably what you burn maintaining a a vintage M1. I've got two v10 german sedans and neither has run anywhere near that.

There's a reason the original drivers of the car tend to lease these, and it's not just because they want the latest design.

On the older Jaguars to change the fuel pump, you need to remove the fuel tank to access it, causing labor costs to increase to $1000 overall. Although its British, these cars have low resale like their German counterparts.

On the Audi A4, to change the alternator, you need to remove the front bumper so you can access a bolt.

On the new Volkswagen I read, you need a handheld computer to electronically enable you to change the brake pad, rotor. Not sure about this.

 

[Denly]

There's a reason the original drivers of the car tend to lease these, and it's not just because they want the latest design.

On the older Jaguars to change the fuel pump, you need to remove the fuel tank to access it, causing labor costs to increase to $1000 overall. Although its British, these cars have low resale like their German counterparts.

On the Audi A4, to change the alternator, you need to remove the front bumper so you can access a bolt.

On the new Volkswagen I read, you need a handheld computer to electronically enable you to change the brake pad, rotor. Not sure about this.

Since when Jaguar is a German car? :biggrin: MANY MANY car need to remove fuel tank to get to the pump. Focus, Passat just to name a couple, I am sure there are tons more. Remove a fuel tank is a 15 min job once it is on the lifts. You know what is stupid? Jap car don't have fuel filter.

On the A4/Passat, yes you need the to remove bumper for timing belt or alternator. I agree it is stupid. Fortunately the labour price is usually only $100 more than jap car(owner of 2 B5.5 here)

brake on newer VW, never heard of that. I don't know if true or not.

 

[Denly]

Both my M3 and my brother's 325 coupe (stick suspension on both) developed subframe cracks; It's just a poorly engineered part of the car.

Can it be fix? if so how much?

And what about those reinforcement kit?

 

[SSSnail]

Both my M3 and my brother's 325 coupe (stick suspension on both) developed subframe cracks; It's just a poorly engineered part of the car.

Meh, mine still hasn't shown. And I don't exactly baby my cars.

And what about those reinforcement kit?

Those kits are the fix. They're cheap, but finding someone to perform the work for cheap is another matter. All in all, it isn't a very expensive problem.

 

[halik]

Can it be fix? if so how much?

And what about those reinforcement kit?

Last I checked it runs about 1200 bucks or so, you can put reinforcement metal there at the same time.

 

[Denly]

Looks like the free inspection deal is long gone, what is the best location to keep an eye on for self inspection?

 

[repoman0]

There's a reason the original drivers of the car tend to lease these, and it's not just because they want the latest design.

On the older Jaguars to change the fuel pump, you need to remove the fuel tank to access it, causing labor costs to increase to $1000 overall. Although its British, these cars have low resale like their German counterparts.

On the Audi A4, to change the alternator, you need to remove the front bumper so you can access a bolt.

On the new Volkswagen I read, you need a handheld computer to electronically enable you to change the brake pad, rotor. Not sure about this.

I changed my e46 fuel pump in 30 minutes with 3 tools (10mm socket + ratchet, flathead screwdriver, BFH) on the street outside my apartment. It lasted 150k miles and through countless times bleeding the tank dry and the replacement cost me $90.

I've also removed the alternator for ease of access for replacement of another part .. couple of bolts and 5 minutes of my time. Same story with the brakes .. a few hours of my time, no computer involved

Not sure what any of those cars you mentioned have to do with the e46. I've spent probably $1200 in maintenance to take my e46 from 102k miles to 150k and have done all work on it myself .. nothing has been particularly challenging and this is the first car I've owned and worked on.

That said, a couple severe winters have taken their toll on my street parked car, so it's being replaced (during warm months) with an M3 of the same iteration :sneaky: