Soldering station question

[tinpanalley]

I am finding with the passage of time that more and more I need a little soldering station to do the simplest of fixes (capacitors, quick fixes to stuff, reconnecting something on a PCB that's disconnected over time, etc) and it seems like these things always require basic handling of a soldering iron. So I want to get one of the stations I see on Amazon, keeping in mind I've used one before but I'm not pro so a 100-300 dollar station is useless on me. However, what I want to ask about is solder. Surely, there is reason to get one kind of solder over another. Sorry, this is obviously going to sound very noob. And then someone else once mentioned there is something else you need to get, some other kind of string that helps clean off excess solder? Sorry if I'm totally getting this wrong.

In the event that anyone wants to recommend any particular product, I'm thinking of this one but wouldn't mind anything else on Amazon Canada I can get in this price range. My use? Really to do tiny easy repairs on pcbs, motherboards, and the odd repair around the house that could use soldering.

Thanks!!

 

[Paperdoc]

That "some kind of string" is a braided fine multi-strand wire in a roll. Needs to be the right type of metal. It is used as a solder remover. When it is placed in contact with some melted solder, it acts like a wick and soaks up the liquid solder.You pull it away, then cut off the stiff soaked end and use the next bit.

 

[tinpanalley]

That "some kind of string" is a braided fine multi-strand wire in a roll. Needs to be the right type of metal. It is used as a solder remover. When it is placed in contact with some melted solder, it acts like a wick and soaks up the liquid solder.You pull it away, then cut off the stiff soaked end and use the next bit.

Ok, great, thanks. So can anyone recommend me any particular solder and wick? Is it a brand thing or is it good enough to know that lead free is best?

 

[shortylickens]

rosin core seemed to work best for me.
I did soldering in high school and in the Navy.
Also these days I think its damn near impossible to purchase lead solder, which is a good thing.
If you come across an old spool of lead solder, DO NOT FUCKING USE IT!

 

[viivo]

Just something from my own experience: If you're going to use flux paste, apply it like it's $50 a gram. I ruined a pair of RCA cables I made (using relatively expensive components) - because the wires and the connectors became so corroded due to some remaining flux paste they stopped functioning. The corrosion travelled through the entire length of the cables as well as covering and pitting the metal of all 4 connectors.

That stuff can be nasty if not completely cleaned or burned away.

 

[Scarpozzi]

I have this one:

Tenma 21-147 Temperature Controlled Soldering Station - Walmart.com

Buy Tenma 21-147 Temperature Controlled Soldering Station at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

Tenma and Weller are my favorite brands...this Weller looks similar to the Vastar, but look up Weller's history in the space....they've been around for years and replacement tips are going to be easy to find. I don't know anything about Vastar, but they definitely look like entry level (mainly because the solder is included)

This entry level Weller is probably worth the few extra bucks:

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=asc_df_B000AS28UC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198103947043&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4306961578729490722&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013305&hvtargid=pla-448477212877&psc=1

Review:

For the solder, you'll want 60/40 resin core. $20/lb is a decent sale price on it. It'll last you a long time, but I don't recommend using cheap solder...just because inferior solder could have issues and be subject to cracking or have a lower melting point. This is important on some boards that get hot or have more heat/cold fluctuation.... Just buy from a reputable source/brand. Radio Shack is full retail at $30/lb, so I wouldn't pay more than that for 60/40.

 

[Steltek]

You might also want to pick up a small spool of 63/37 rosin solder for electronics. It can be advantageous because it goes from completely solid to completely melted, then back to solid in a very small temperature window. That makes it very good for working with small or hard-to-solder joints versus 60/40 (which has a semi-molten state that causes it to take more time to re-solidify).

 

[tinpanalley]

I have this one:

Tenma 21-147 Temperature Controlled Soldering Station - Walmart.com

Buy Tenma 21-147 Temperature Controlled Soldering Station at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

Tenma and Weller are my favorite brands...this Weller looks similar to the Vastar, but look up Weller's history in the space....they've been around for years and replacement tips are going to be easy to find. I don't know anything about Vastar, but they definitely look like entry level (mainly because the solder is included)

This entry level Weller is probably worth the few extra bucks:

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=asc_df_B000AS28UC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198103947043&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4306961578729490722&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013305&hvtargid=pla-448477212877&psc=1

Review:

For the solder, you'll want 60/40 resin core. $20/lb is a decent sale price on it. It'll last you a long time, but I don't recommend using cheap solder...just because inferior solder could have issues and be subject to cracking or have a lower melting point. This is important on some boards that get hot or have more heat/cold fluctuation.... Just buy from a reputable source/brand. Radio Shack is full retail at $30/lb, so I wouldn't pay more than that for 60/40.

I think you're probably right about Vastar. I think Amazon sells it because like with most devices, electronics or otherwise, it's an affordable low budget substitute. This New York Times Wirecutter review talks about its temperature regulator not being correct at all and the handle heating up too much but still calls it a reasonable budget option. So they're probably ok but nothing to rely too much on:https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-soldering-irons/

But the Weller name clearly speaks for itself, I like the idea that tips will be more readily available. And they're not even that much more expensive.

 

[Scarpozzi]

You might also want to pick up a small spool of 63/37 rosin solder for electronics. It can be advantageous because it goes from completely solid to completely melted, then back to solid in a very small temperature window. That makes it very good for working with small or hard-to-solder joints versus 60/40 (which has a semi-molten state that causes it to take more time to re-solidify).

I always need the extra time.

I also recommend investing in those helping hands things...basically, it's a paper weight with a few alligator clips on it.

Helping Hands

Amazing deals on this Helping Hands at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

You can get those on Amazon too...but Harbor Freight works if you have one nearby.

 

[Paperdoc]

Solder "flux" can be a little confusing. The basis is that many metals are NOT "wetted" easily by other molten metals, so the new solder does NOT actually bond to the metal you are trying to stick together. It can just flake off. But if you use the right solder type AND the right flux type, the flux can modify the metal surface slightly to get the solder to bond tightly to the metal.

By far the best option for working on electrical components is a solder that also includes rosin flux inside its core - the solder wire is a hollow tube for that. The rosin does the job required and is NOT corrosive to most common metals, so you just leave the remnants there and don't worry about that. Years ago i worked in a lab where copper, brass and several other metals were often assembled into devices, and those metals often could NOT be soldered with that simple rosin flux. Our lab tech had created his own optimized "acid flux" using a few mixed metallic salts, and it was more agressive and worked very well for those jobs. However, it most certainly WAS corosive, so he always removed the trace remnants of the Flux after making the connections. In home plumbing applications, a slightly different mix of metals (rather than the 60/40 noted above for electronics) is used to join solid copper pipes, and the Flux sold for that in small tins of greasy amber stuff IS acidic and works well to get good solder joints on copper. HOWEVER, it IS acidic and it is best to remove any excess from the exterior, and count on the subsequent flow of water through the pipes to flush out interior residues. I suspect the poster above who reported a really bad experience with "flux" used that kind.

If your work is mainly small joints on electrical wiring etc, stick with the rosin-core stuff for that work. I don't have enough experience with the two types noted above (60/40 and 63/37) to offer any opinion on them. And I do so litle of this that I rarely worry about lead-free. A modest coil of solder wire may last me years.
.

 

[tinpanalley]

Wait, if lead is so unsafe, then wouldn't it be best to get completely lead free rosin core solder? I mean wouldn't even 63/37 be too much lead?

 

[Scarpozzi]

Wait, if lead is so unsafe, then wouldn't it be best to get completely lead free rosin core solder? I mean wouldn't even 63/37 be too much lead?

Lead free solder is what they use for soldering copper pipes. I'd stick with the leaded stuff because it's got a low melting point and is soft enough that it flexes a little. Brittle solder joints break under temp stress. When I run my iron, it's not uncommon for me to backup or blow the smoke lightly to keep it from my face. The smoke is lightly the rosin itself burning and the metal is pretty heavy and will stick to the board.

 

[Steltek]

Yeah, leaded alloy solder is way easier to use. Just make sure you don't breathe the fumes (always work in a well ventilated area), and always wash your hands when you finish and you shouldn't have any problems.

If you were doing this more than as just a hobby, you'd want learn to use unleaded solder. For sporadic hobby use, though, the leaded alloy solders are just way more forgiving to learn with.

Lead free solder for electronics sucks. Anything you use it on will be less reliable than lead alloy solders. That stuff is a major reason why electronics today don't last like older electronics did - "environmentally friendly" doesn't exactly translate to device longevity.

 

[mindless1]

Wait, if lead is so unsafe, then wouldn't it be best to get completely lead free rosin core solder? I mean wouldn't even 63/37 be too much lead?

It's not so unsafe. On a global level it may be better that it's not used where not needed, similar situation to large scale farming and certain herbicides, insecticides and fertilizers, but on a small scale it has great benefits. Just don't hang your head over soldering work and sniff the fumes, and don't eat it.

Lead free solder is not just more difficult to use as far as equipment quality and technique but also the more cost effective options have a higher melting point that is more likely to damage components, to grow tin whiskers, to make more brittle joints that crack later, or that start out poor because it didn't flow as well, and the higher temperature needed burns up soldering iron tips faster too. Lead free is best reserved for a manufacturing process where every element is controlled and quality control checked, not even hand soldering by a manufacturer though this is required too unless the product is exempt for safety (danger of product failure) reasons.

I wouldn't go as far as to suggest that the lead free solder is a leading cause of electronics failure today, but that is largely because most things are made to low cost and small size with the assumption that they're disposable, going into a landfill soon anyway, which is where lead free is good to not contaminate.

If you're building or repairing something, obviously your plan is not for it to go into a landfill soon, so leaded solder makes sense.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Just buy from a reputable source/brand. Radio Shack is full retail at $30/lb, so I wouldn't pay more than that for 60/40.

Huh? I thought Radio Shack (here in the USA) went out of business two years or more ago. ???

 

[Scarpozzi]

Huh? I thought Radio Shack (here in the USA) went out of business two years or more ago. ???

They have a website and are still open in some locations.

Yeah....went out here too, but there is a location still 25 minutes away from me. I really miss having access to their components. These days prices are rolled up to include shipping on Amazon, so it's still cheaper to buy from local electronics stores most of the time if they stock the parts.

 

[mindless1]

Most local electronics store and especially Radio Shack, sell CRAP when it comes to discrete components. Granted, 60/40 solder, I imagine that's on par and decent enough to use at least, but why when you can get Kester or another major brand for about the same price elsewhere?

Solder is a commodity item yet you can price search to get a small discount, but for most parts you are better off getting new major brand parts from an electronics supply house like Digikey, Mouser, Newark, etc. If you go through solder slow, I'd advise getting a lb (if you can use that much) fresh from Digikey, then you have that many more years before the flux in it sours.

If you're just a hobbyist tinkering around and can tolerate it then there are several electronics surplus sites to get old (sometimes VERY old) parts from at a substantial discount. BGMicro, Electronic Goldmine, MPJA, among others.

Surplus sites are also a good option to get industrial grade fans for computer use, that have very long lifespans. Granted, sometimes ebay is still the better deal (for some parts, not fans) if you know what you're buying, can wait a month to get it on the slow boat from China.

Radio Shack fell victim to the information age, and the rapid shipping trend. I buy electronic components all the time but don't miss Radio Shack one bit, yet as a kid learning about them, it was a cool place to browse. Nostalgia, until you know better.

 

[Scarpozzi]

Most local electronics store and especially Radio Shack, sell CRAP when it comes to discrete components. Granted, 60/40 solder, I imagine that's on par and decent enough to use at least, but why when you can get Kester or another major brand for about the same price elsewhere?

Solder is a commodity item yet you can price search to get a small discount, but for most parts you are better off getting new major brand parts from an electronics supply house like Digikey, Mouser, Newark, etc. If you go through solder slow, I'd advise getting a lb (if you can use that much) fresh from Digikey, then you have that many more years before the flux in it sours.

If you're just a hobbyist tinkering around and can tolerate it then there are several electronics surplus sites to get old (sometimes VERY old) parts from at a substantial discount. BGMicro, Electronic Goldmine, MPJA, among others.

Surplus sites are also a good option to get industrial grade fans for computer use, that have very long lifespans. Granted, sometimes ebay is still the better deal (for some parts, not fans) if you know what you're buying, can wait a month to get it on the slow boat from China.

Radio Shack fell victim to the information age, and the rapid shipping trend. I buy electronic components all the time but don't miss Radio Shack one bit, yet as a kid learning about them, it was a cool place to browse. Nostalgia, until you know better.

I suppose if you're in a big enough city, you may have other options. There were other electronics stores 30 minutes from where I lived (still in business today) that had shelves of parts at higher than average national prices, but Radio Shack was in the mall...10 minutes away....so it was 20 minutes of driving vs an hour.

Additionally, Archer was the Radio Shack brand of parts. They were sourced from wherever, packaged in Texas, but weren't particularly bad and didn't have any higher failure rate than anything else that came out of China...most everything was $1-2 in price for the typical transistors, resistors, diodes, and capacitors I was always needing. That beat shipping prices by a long-shot in both time and expenses, unless I was placing a large enough order to cover the difference.

 

[mindless1]

^ Sure but back in their heyday, nobody would touch parts from China with a 10ft pole if they cared about quality.

Some things like diodes, sure they were about on par for the basic staples like 1N4001, or overpriced transformers, but other things like capacitors, switches, potentiometers, and more were rubbish. Maybe suitable enough to get a child's science fair project working when it's due the next day, but hardly worth the bother otherwise if you're investing the time to DIY from scratch.

They never even carried a single top shelf soldering station or multimeter which is a little absurd considering their roots.

They chose not to keep up with modern hobbyist demands for better quality parts. Even their LEDs were junk while the LED revolution began, like they no longer wanted to support modern electronics and just bank on cell phone sales and novelty widgets, but cell phones were too competitive a market and they had nothing on Sharper Image et al when it came to novelty widgets.

I did buy many parts there, decades ago, but was glad to jump ship when the internet made it easy to find higher quality at places like Digikey. If you don't care about quality then the internet provided surplus places like... I have a big list but for example BGMicro or Goldmine Electronics.

I was seldom in enough of a rush that I couldn't wait approx 2 business days for a Digikey shipment as there was a time when USPS shipping from them was pretty cheap, about $2 for up to 8oz. Granted, I live very close to an international airport and OTR shipping hubs, so 2 business days to me could be double that to someone else.

Since Radio Shack doesn't carry the vast array of parts one might need, so you end up driving elsewhere or paying shipping anyway to complete a project, I often found it more cost effective to just get everything from Digikey. Often they would have my order shipped within a couple hours of ordering and I don't mean a tracking # generated but rather, already out their door and in USPS hands.

Same thing different day... compete or die, nobody can rely on name alone after the information age took hold. I would have very much liked if Radio Shack started stocking better parts, would have payed more to get them immediately, but paying the same for crap just to avoid waiting a couple days? I'm just not in that much of a rush.