(Solved)Please suggest the Best PC configuration

[sangamam]

Hi Team,

I'm planning to assemble a new pc tomorrow and I need the right configuration. I read some articles on AnandTech blog and got much help but still can't decide.I wish some experts would answer my question

Primary use:
Gaming,Video conversion,surfing, Multitasking (copying, burning a disk, installing a software, movie ,running Oracle 11g, Ms word at the same time)

I already have 21' Led monitor (view sonic)

Need suggestion for the following:
Motherboard, Processor, PSU,RAM

Budget:
Rs 30000 or Approx $558 (Includes motherboard,processor,RAM,HDD,Cabinet)
sangamam is online now Report Post Edit/Delete Message

 

[sangamam]

Sad to see that no one has answered till now.. I have to buy a pc in around 12 hours .. Some expert please suggest

NO AMD processors...

 

[CA19100]

There is a little bit more information we need to give you an educated opinion. Best to start with the sticky, which will help us give better advice:

http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=80121

You've already answered some of the questions, but there are a few gaps:

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.

4. IF you're buying parts OUTSIDE the US, please post a link to the vendor you'll be buying from.
We can't be expected to scour the internet on your behalf, chasing down deals in your specific country... Again, help us, help YOU.

5. IF YOU have a brand preference. That means, are you an Intel-Fanboy, AMD-Fanboy, ATI-Fanboy, nVidia-Fanboy, Seagate-Fanboy, WD-Fanboy, etc.

(You already mentioned no AMD processors, but what about video card brands? You mentioned gaming, and while the integrated video in many AMD's processors will work for gaming, the Intel stuff [even HD 4000] just won't.)

6. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.

(You mentioned burning discs -- do you have a DVD burner you'll be moving over, or do you need one?)

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.

8. What resolution, not monitor size, will you be using?

X. Do you need to purchase any software to go with the system, such as Windows or Blu Ray playback software?

In particular, knowing if you already have a copy of Windows to install will greatly affect what you can get for your budget! Let us know.

 

[Ketchup]

What stores/sites do you have access to (are you in India)?

 

[mfenn]

What stores/sites do you have access to (are you in India)?

:thumbsup: It is really hard to make a reasonable recommendation without knowing pricing. Given that you're buying within the next 6 hours, I'm guessing you are getting something local.

 

[CA19100]

In case you don't get back here until the last minute, here's a build that assumes you already have a copy of Windows, you aren't planning on overclocking, and you don't care who makes your graphics card. It includes a decent-quality power supply and a DVD burner.

Keep in mind these are mail-order prices, so I came in under budget to hopefully allow a little bit of retail markup. As I said, this is a wild guess, since I don't know where you're buying.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i3-3225 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor ($134.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($95.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($54.90 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($66.61 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: HIS Radeon HD 7750 1GB Video Card ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake VL80001W2Z ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 300W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.96 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $517.42

The case is personal taste; there are lots of choices. As long as it'll fit your board size, pick one you like and can afford. I just picked one more or less at random.

If you get back to us in time with more info, I'll tweak it as best I can. Also, when you say "games," I'm assuming you mean modern 3-D games. If you're just doing puzzles or poker or something, you wouldn't need a video card, and could apply the savings to a faster i5 processor instead of the i3 I quoted above.

 

[sangamam]

THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR SUGGESTION

1. Gaming,Oracle 11G,Video Conversion,
2.Budget is Rs30000(includes mobo,processor,ram,hdd,psu,case)
3.India( Its ok if u mention price in $$)
4.Prefrence:Mobo Intel or Gigabyte and processor Intel
5.Current parts: DVD writer,LED monitor,keyboard mouse
6.NO overclocking
7.1920*1080 ViewSonic(I have this)
8.Already have Windows 8 licensed version
9.Today in 3 hrs

 

[Xtrem]

See CA19100's post, the CPU and motherboard is pretty nice. You might want to change the GPU and case to fit your preferences/price

 

[CA19100]

OK, for your budget, the build I linked above should work pretty well. Since you don't need the DVD burner, you might want to roll that budget into a nicer case than the cheap one I linked above.

My local shop had the Thermaltake New Soprano case for $80 US, and I just rebuilt my rig into it. I really like the case, and it's dramatically quieter than the Antec 300 I was using before.

Definitely look around and see if you can find one you like.


Another option that might be more appealing: Keep the cheap case, and upgrade to an i5 processor. With the DVD burner removed, it looks like you can just keep it within your budget, assuming you find similar pricing. Here's a revised build:


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3450 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($195.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($95.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($54.90 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($66.61 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: HIS Radeon HD 7750 1GB Video Card ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake VL80001W2Z ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 300W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $558.45


Or, keep the i3 and put your money into a better video card. It depends if gaming or other processing is more important to you. (For me, I'd get the i5, but I'm only a casual gamer.) If you want to up the video card, something like this GeForce 650 Ti Boost 2GB card would be a nice upgrade: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127728


Good luck! It's a lot of fun.

 

[sangamam]

What to choose z77 or h77
which would be better considering the next 2-3 years to come

OK, for your budget, the build I linked above should work pretty well. Since you don't need the DVD burner, you might want to roll that budget into a nicer case than the cheap one I linked above.

My local shop had the Thermaltake New Soprano case for $80 US, and I just rebuilt my rig into it. I really like the case, and it's dramatically quieter than the Antec 300 I was using before.

Definitely look around and see if you can find one you like.


Another option that might be more appealing: Keep the cheap case, and upgrade to an i5 processor. With the DVD burner removed, it looks like you can just keep it within your budget, assuming you find similar pricing. Here's a revised build:


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3450 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($195.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($95.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($54.90 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($66.61 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: HIS Radeon HD 7750 1GB Video Card ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake VL80001W2Z ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 300W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $558.45


Or, keep the i3 and put your money into a better video card. It depends if gaming or other processing is more important to you. (For me, I'd get the i5, but I'm only a casual gamer.) If you want to up the video card, something like this GeForce 650 Ti Boost 2GB card would be a nice upgrade: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814127728


Good luck! It's a lot of fun.

 

[sangamam]

Does gigabyte mobo wear out in1 -2 years...(heard a lot of people sayin.. Just wanted to confirm) I'm roaming in the market now( lamington rd Bombay)

 

[CA19100]

What to choose z77 or h77
which would be better considering the next 2-3 years to come

A Z77 gives you two advantages: the ability to overclock an unlocked processor (such as the i5-3570K), and the ability to split the main PCI Express connection across two slots, for Crossfire or SLI.

In my case, I saved the money and went with an H77 because I have no intention of overclocking at any point with this machine. The rest of the features are identical.

If you foresee yourself overclocking at some point, then you should go with the Z77. I haven't researched Z77 boards much because I determined I didn't need its features, but I've seen this ASRock board recommended a lot around here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813157293


Keep in mind that the processors I've linked so far do not have an unlocked multiplier for overclocking. That means that, unless you also upgrade your processor (now or later), the only advantage a Z77 will give you is the ability to split the PCI Express for doing SLI. The specific Gigabyte motherboard I linked already supports Crossfire with two AMD cards if you decide to do that later.

And I just saw your edit: I've never heard anything about Gigabyte motherboards wearing out prematurely. My research indicated it was a good quality brand and a good value. I avoided Biostar because of a number of things I read, but Gigabyte, Asus, and ASRock all seemed fine.

I hope that helps!

 

[Xtrem]

Also one feature I liked about Z77 boards is the Lucid Virtu which switches between the integrated and discrete graphics depending on what you are running to save power (its a bit of a hassle though and it does depend on the board as well, some don't support it)

 

[sangamam]

Ca19100 and extreme..
Thanks for explaining in detail.
Just 1 last question.. Can I go for i3470 instead of the one you suggested

 

[CA19100]

Ca19100 and extreme..
Thanks for explaining in detail.
Just 1 last question.. Can I go for i3470 instead of the one you suggested

Yes, you definitely can. Any of the Ivy Bridge processors would be fine; it's a question of price vs. speed. At the moment, it looks like the 3470 is actually cheaper than the one I originally linked. Good catch!

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80637i53470

 

[Cerb]

Does gigabyte mobo wear out in1 -2 years...(heard a lot of people sayin.. Just wanted to confirm) I'm roaming in the market now( lamington rd Bombay)

I have some now over 10 years old (SiS746/748, and nForce2), so, no. Capacitors often wear out, but it takes 5+ years, usually, even in hot & humid climates, and often more like 15+ years. Purchasing a board that advertises the use of all dry--AKA, "solid"--capacitors might be prudent, if you are in a warm/wet area, just to not risk the high humidity ruining the long service life. Power glitches, and lightning, can take them out if healthy, of course, but that's just a risk you take, if you live in a place where either happens frequently.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
^ That's where such hearsay comes from, usually. A few bad samples, and no knowledge of the situation, leading to ill-conceived anecdotal advice.

Cliffs: industrial espionage led to an malformed electrolyte formula, which appeared to work fine, but failed, catastrophically, within the first 2 years of use, and almost every major electronics manufacturer was hurt by it.

Your acquaintances probably knew a few people with some popular Gigabyte boards that has such capacitors, which died prematurely, indicating to them Gigabyte made crap. The reality is that it was almost by luck that some products with Chinese and Taiwanese sourced capacitors managed to not be affected. MSI, Asus, ECS, Dell, HP, IBM/Lenovo, Sony, Toshiba, and many others, got burned, as well.

 

[sangamam]

Thanks cerb for wonderful info

 

[sangamam]

ca19100 , I purchased i3470
And everthing else as U suggested but instead of Kingston ram , I got vengeance as Kingston was not available.

One bad thing that happened is the board...
I didn't get h77 ds3h as the shopkeepers in Mumbai R on a strike for local body tax issue.. Finally, the only gigabyte byte board that was available was h77 m-d3h ... Not sure if its good..


Thanks everyone, for your efforts

 

[sangamam]

Finally reached home.. Installed windows 8 .. Happy

 

[CA19100]

I didn't get h77 ... the only gigabyte byte board that was available was h77 m-d3h ... Not sure if its good...

That's actually the exact board I use! I've had it for almost a year now, and I'm still very happy with it. It has given me no problems at all.

About the only thing I don't like about it is that when I put my video card in, it blocks the only PCI-E x1 slot, which I use for my wireless card. It works fine in the other large PCI-E slot, but if I ever decide to do two video cards, that will be a problem. That's really the only reason I recommended the full-size ATX board for you; the MicroATX H77M-D3H has been otherwise perfect for me.

Finally reached home.. Installed windows 8 .. Happy

That's great! I hope you enjoy your new system. I'm still amazed how fast it is!

 

[sangamam]

Its really fast CA19100 ... The startup didn't take more than 3 seconds once all the programs were installed.. I don't feel the need for a SSD

________________________________________________________

I just noticed that in the system properties, The installed memory shows 8GB but says only 3.48GB usable? why so?

I have purchased a corsair Vengeance two 4GB rams

That's actually the exact board I use! I've had it for almost a year now, and I'm still very happy with it. It has given me no problems at all.

About the only thing I don't like about it is that when I put my video card in, it blocks the only PCI-E x1 slot, which I use for my wireless card. It works fine in the other large PCI-E slot, but if I ever decide to do two video cards, that will be a problem. That's really the only reason I recommended the full-size ATX board for you; the MicroATX H77M-D3H has been otherwise perfect for me.



That's great! I hope you enjoy your new system. I'm still amazed how fast it is!

 

[CA19100]

It sounds like you may have installed the 32-bit Windows. To use all that memory, you'll need the 64-bit version installed.

 

[sangamam]

It sounds like you may have installed the 32-bit Windows. To use all that memory, you'll need the 64-bit version installed.

Yes thanks man! The one I'm using is 32Bit

 

[CA19100]

Yes thanks man! The one I'm using is 32Bit

You'll definitely want to reinstall, then. The trick is finding a copy of the 64-bit install DVD. Your license key will still work with either version; you might see if a friend has a DVD you can borrow, or the store that sold it to you. I don't believe Microsoft has it for download, but I'm not sure on that.

 

[sangamam]

You'll definitely want to reinstall, then. The trick is finding a copy of the 64-bit install DVD. Your license key will still work with either version; you might see if a friend has a DVD you can borrow, or the store that sold it to you. I don't believe Microsoft has it for download, but I'm not sure on that.

I will try to get that done soon...

_________________________________________________________

I also purchased a standard HDMI cable for my viewsonic Full HD led monitor. It works fine with the VGA cable but since I used the HDMI cable the Auto image adjust problem on the monitor go disabled..

I checked the settings from the led menu and found hdmi set to av , tried changing it to pc and the screen became smaller

The problem is that, the screen does not fully cover the monitor , atleast half a inch is left on all sides.

I updated my AMD Radeon HD 6450 drivers for Windows 8 still no go

I didn't find any Viewsonic drivers for windows 8 (but it works fine on windows 8 using vga cable,no drivers needed)


What could be the issue?

Looks like this...