Spend my $50 on noise reduction!

[Dookie]

Let's say you had this build, how would you spend $50 to make it quieter?

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus H97-PLUS ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($109.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Extreme II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT H230 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts Platinum 550W 80+ Platinum Certified ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $0.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro (OEM) (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Monitor: Asus PB278Q 27.0" Monitor (Purchased For $0.00)
Keyboard: Corsair K95 Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Mouse: Razer Taipan Wired Laser Mouse (Purchased For $0.00)

I'm thinking replacing the stock CPU cooler would be the most cost-effective addition but I'd like to hear from some more knowledgeable people.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Let's say you had this build, how would you spend $50 to make it quieter?

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus H97-PLUS ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($109.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Extreme II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT H230 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts Platinum 550W 80+ Platinum Certified ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $0.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro (OEM) (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Monitor: Asus PB278Q 27.0" Monitor (Purchased For $0.00)
Keyboard: Corsair K95 Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Mouse: Razer Taipan Wired Laser Mouse (Purchased For $0.00)

I'm thinking replacing the stock CPU cooler would be the most cost-effective addition but I'd like to hear from some more knowledgeable people.

Before I got to the end of your post, I was thinking "What's the cooling strategy?" Oh-- back up a minute! That's the relevant question if all the noise comes from cooling "devices." Which means -- "fans."

The NZXT case is already equipped with "noise-absorbing padding."

The cooling strategy is important, no less for your choice of a cooling strategy as for the elimination of noise.

So is the choice of your CPU and other hardware, or your intentions for it.

If you intend to overclock the processor, you'll need better cooling than the stock HSF. [On the other hand, the processor seems to show better value simply in its stock capabilities. Even minor "overclocking" should net you 4.4 Ghz on all cores, maybe possible with the stock HSF.]

You can do better with an aftermarket heatpipe cooler. Likely, the fan will be bigger and less noisy than the stock CPU fan.

The 120mm fans for which the case seems designed may be quiet, but won't promise a lot of air-flow. It may be possible to find fans for which noise doesn't scale comparably with higher RPM and higher airflow.

The case doesn't seem to be made for an extensive water-cooling approach, but "extensive" could mean more fans and more noise.

Read the motherboard manual; get familiar with the BIOS and [AND!] the proprietary software features that will allow you to thermally control the fan speeds.

For any other case, you can purchase Spire foam-rubber acoustic padding -- more than you'd ever need for one computer -- for about $8/package:

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556014003.html

But it can become a real mess -- especially when you want to remove it. Further, "localized" and limited application of the material to specific causes of noise may be more effective than softening the "echoes" within the case.

If someone wanted to use the Spire product on case-panels for "echoes," I'd advise running down to Michael's Arts & Crafts to buy some $5 [rigid] foam art-board panels (usually sold for display projects). You can secure the art-board with selective dabs of an adhesive like "Pit-Crew's" and put the foam-rubber on the art-board.

 

[Seba]

You have a "K" processor and a H97 motherboard on that list. You should choose a Z97 motherboard for that CPU.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

You have a "K" processor and a H97 motherboard on that list. You should choose a Z97 motherboard for that CPU.

+1 and :thumbsup:

I only saw "97" when I scanned his list. So -- yes -- no excuse, for buying a K processor without choosing a Z motherboard.

ALSO -- some other minor things. Get a handful of rubber fan mounts for all the fans in the case except the fittings for any aftermarket cooler (usually with silicon rubber parts, anyway). Case-makers (to my experience) usually bundle self-threading screws with their fans and cases. This will become even more helpful if you replace the fans with units offering greater airflow.

 

[Cerb]

http://www.silentpcreview.com/Case_Basics_and_Recommendations
Read that. Pages 1 and 3 are the important ones.

Not overclocking, you're not going to reach 300W to dissipate; and if overclocking (swap to a Z97 board, for that), you're unlikely to get past 350W, even with a high-TDP GTX 970 (like Gigabyte's). In all likelihood, you could run all 4 cores at 4.5+GHz, and run an OCed GB GTX 970 G1, and not break 300W. So, cooling needs are moderate.

1. Get $20-50 cheaper RAM. Nothing to do with noise.

2. Change the PSU to a Corsair CX500M ($55 AMIR), for savings, or RM650 for semi-passiveness (still $20 cheaper, at $70 AP&MIR). Little to nothing to do with noise.

3. Change the video card out for an Asus Strix, MSI Gaming, Zotac (big version), or Gigabyte G1.
3B. Set a lower than default power limit (reduces performance).

4. Remove the middle drive cage, and put a fan there, so the front fan can blow right into the video card's space, without anything in the way.

5. Get a CPU cooler. IMO, the best value is the Thermalright Macho 120, and it's fairly easy to install (and much easier to work around afterwards than its big brother, or any 140mm Noctua model).

6. Change and/or add fans. IMO, fans should be added in this order: top-front intake, rear exhaust, bottom intake, bottom-front intake. The bottom-front 120mm is partially blocked, so will be one of the least effective (IIRC, this spot comes populated out of the box). The top is begging for you to hear the blades pass by the grill on every revolution.

Try the included fans, first, and see where you end up. My memory may not be perfect, but I do not recall the included fans to be unpleasant, noise-wise, if low-performance. I'm sure the included fans alone won't result in the greatest temps, but you can at least get an idea of where you should go, from there. All Noctua, BeQuiet, or Noiseblocker? One of those? Just add a Yate Loon or Nexus to the bottom? ...

7. Change case. A Fractal Design R4, FI, would be a step up, easy to work in, and is only $80, right now (normally $100-110). The above stuff would apply to it as much as the H230 (just the R4, as the top fans go).

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I'd add Akasa Viper fans to Cerb's list.

 

[Dookie]

Wow that's a lot to to take in. Thanks for the replies!

I have made the suggested changes to the build but I'll need to dig into the OC aspect now. Such a pain! /s

3. Change the video card out for an Asus Strix, MSI Gaming, Zotac (big version), or Gigabyte G1.
3B. Set a lower than default power limit (reduces performance).

After reading a review I'm under the impression that the EVGA card will turn off the fans at idle so noise shouldn't be an issue as I'll be wearing headphones while working the GPU. Also the idea of compromising performance for noise reduction is not sitting too well. Or was that suggestion more for heat reduction?

I'm still on the fence about the case. I'm kind of stuck on a white case at this point and only the black case is on sale. Although though the reviews for the NZXT are not terribly reassuring... Still thinking about this one.

As far as replacing fans, adding spacers, and noise dampening materials I'm planning on waiting until the system is built and seeing how it performs


Anyway, here's my updated build:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright MACHO 120 REV.A 46.2 CFM CPU Cooler ($45.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-P ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($116.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: PNY XLR8 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Sandisk Extreme II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT H230 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $0.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro (OEM) (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Monitor: Asus PB278Q 27.0" Monitor (Purchased For $0.00)
Keyboard: Corsair K95 Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Mouse: Razer Taipan Wired Laser Mouse (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1192.90

 

[master_shake_]

that board is crap...

spend an extra 20 bucks on a GOOD one.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-118-_-Product

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-z97a

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Wow that's a lot to to take in. Thanks for the replies!

I have made the suggested changes to the build but I'll need to dig into the OC aspect now. Such a pain! /s



After reading a review I'm under the impression that the EVGA card will turn off the fans at idle so noise shouldn't be an issue as I'll be wearing headphones while working the GPU. Also the idea of compromising performance for noise reduction is not sitting too well. Or was that suggestion more for heat reduction?

I'm still on the fence about the case. I'm kind of stuck on a white case at this point and only the black case is on sale. Although though the reviews for the NZXT are not terribly reassuring... Still thinking about this one.

As far as replacing fans, adding spacers, and noise dampening materials I'm planning on waiting until the system is built and seeing how it performs


Anyway, here's my updated build:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright MACHO 120 REV.A 46.2 CFM CPU Cooler ($45.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-P ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($116.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: PNY XLR8 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Sandisk Extreme II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT H230 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $0.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro (OEM) (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Monitor: Asus PB278Q 27.0" Monitor (Purchased For $0.00)
Keyboard: Corsair K95 Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Mouse: Razer Taipan Wired Laser Mouse (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1192.90

You can do that without any criticism from me. But I myself wouldn't wait to mount the fans with the rubber mounts. You might spend a few dollars (< $10 for quite a few). Some fans come with rubberized corners, but this doesn't help as much if a metal screw winds through plastic and then case metal. All the little things add up!

 

[Dookie]

that board is crap...

spend an extra 20 bucks on a GOOD one.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-118-_-Product

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-z97a

I'm not trying to argue with you but why is that board crap? I'd like to know so I know what to look for.

But I myself wouldn't wait to mount the fans with the rubber mounts.

I see what you're saying. I'll probably just pick some up form home depot or wherever.

 

[master_shake_]

I'm not trying to argue with you but why is that board crap? I'd like to know so I know what to look for.


I see what you're saying. I'll probably just pick some up form home depot or wherever.

z97-a has more power phases which means a more stable overclock it supports dual gpu configs it has sata express which may not be a big deal to you now but may be in the future and has intel lan possibly the best lan solution ever.

 

[Cerb]

After reading a review I'm under the impression that the EVGA card will turn off the fans at idle so noise shouldn't be an issue as I'll be wearing headphones while working the GPU.

It appears that's part of a firmware update, now. It was not there, initially, and you might need to do an update on the card when you get it.

Also the idea of compromising performance for noise reduction is not sitting too well. Or was that suggestion more for heat reduction?

Just TAANSTAFL. More performance = more heat, generally. For the cards, the MSI has a good balance between nothing and load, while the Gigabyte is among the quieter while under load, and is pretty power efficient.

I'm still on the fence about the case. I'm kind of stuck on a white case at this point and only the black case is on sale. Although though the reviews for the NZXT are not terribly reassuring... Still thinking about this one.

The H230 is a hell of a case for $60-70. But, the Define R4 is overall a better case for ~$100-110. Ditto the H440. If you want more mass and room (Define R4), you can spend more, still not be too noisy, and still have white. Or, don't spend more, and have a perfectly good sleek-looking H230 (also, it's more compact). Either choice will work out well, IMO.

If you want to spend more on a case, go for it. You can get a better case. Whether it will have been worth another $50 is a hard question to answer, though--for some, absolutely; for some, not at all. If you want to save money, do that. If a more expensive case would mean shaving off other costs by downgrading parts, don't consider the more expensive case.

I see what you're saying. I'll probably just pick some up form home depot or wherever.

Or, Amazon, or FrozenCPU?

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Frozen CPU and SidewinderComputers.com are two sources. Also probably Cooler Guys and PerformancePCs. Some of the mounts offered with colored gum rubber and very long nipples are expensive. The regular black-rubber units -- less. You won't find them at Home Depot.

I wouldn't rule out the use of the more expensive mounts for some fans in some places. The cheaper mounts will likely serve the purpose for many fans and case-interior locations.

But it's worth spending the money on them, unless you can dream up some DIY solution which does the same thing. Just for clarity, I've tried metal machine screws with rubber gaskets at every contact point, only to find out that the screws will make some contact with the plastic and increase audible vibration.

I was once able to pick up silicon-rubber gasket kits for fans, but again -- if screws come in contact with the case, they become a problem. I've often wondered how using the gaskets together with the rubber mounts might make things even better. It depends on the elasticity of the mounts, since the gasket makes the fan assembly thicker at the mount points. Likely, that wouldn't be a problem, either.

 

[Dookie]

The regular black-rubber units -- less. You won't find them at Home Depot.

After looking them up I see what you're saying. I was thinking just some rubber grommets.

If a more expensive case would mean shaving off other costs by downgrading parts, don't consider the more expensive case.

Yeah, that's whats holding me up. I'm at the top end of my budget already and I'm having a hard time seeing a real substantial benefit from the Define R4.

 

[ClockHound]

After looking them up I see what you're saying. I was thinking just some rubber grommets.

Get the silicon fan grommets. And don't forget to spend some pennies on hairbands to suspend the hard drive.

Yeah, that's whats holding me up. I'm at the top end of my budget already and I'm having a hard time seeing a real substantial benefit from the Define R4.

A better, quieter nearly same cost case would be the BitFenix Ghost for $64.99 at:
http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=73006&vpn=BFC-GHO-300-KKN1-RP&manufacture=BitFenix&promoid=1413 (And if you squint enough, black is the new white)

I used one for a recent build and it's a decent cheap case. A little tight to work in, but so is the H230. Which did not get a rave review here at Anand: http://www.anandtech.com/show/7298/nzxt-h230-silent-case-review/4

However, the case is the one thing you have to look at (and hear), day in, day out - the R4 is the best way to spend $50. If you plan on keeping the system for years...then putting a little more money into the case is the best long term value. In which case, get a DS1 or Fortress and blow the top off the budget with style! ;-)

 

[Cerb]

There are several other case options, if black and gray are good. White narrows it down a ton. But, I kind of wished I'd gotten the white version of my case, now, so I understand the OP, there...

 

[greybaby]

Best think you can do for noise if you haven't built it is get a case made for noise dampening. Any case with foam padding of any sort and half decent fans will keep a computer really quiet.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Best think you can do for noise if you haven't built it is get a case made for noise dampening. Any case with foam padding of any sort and half decent fans will keep a computer really quiet.

I've been juggling these issues as I stuck with air-cooling up until this year. I'm planning a water-cooled system next year, but there's always the risk of more misery in the process.

You don't need to pad the case with Spire foam-rubber. It becomes a mess if you try to remove it. If you want side-panels acoustically noise-deadened, you're better to cut a panel of foam-art-board, secure it to the sidepanel with maybe four or five dabs of Pit-Crew Adhesive (or even Velcro!! Which -- would work!), then cut and fit the Spire foam-rubber to the foam-art-board.

And what I discovered recently is this. If you want to use a high-airflow fan which has a little motor-whine at the top-end, you can attack the noise at the source by building a shroud around the particular fan -- padded with Spire. You can also build a "collar" for the fan out of Spire which has no adhesive stuck to the fan.

You can carefully cut circular patches of Spire to fit the hub of a fan -- the fixed frame and center that holds the rotating hub. You can stack the patches -- what I call the "Bozo's Nose" strategy. All of these tedious little uses of Spire foam-rubber will deaden the noise at its source, and any sound that escapes -- which may echo around the case interior -- can be further stifled with the side-panel mounts I mentioned.