Stranded vs Solid cable

[Kelemvor]

I'm looking for a few hundred feet of Cat5 cable to run in my house. I'm going to end them in keystone jacks build into the walls. I've read some things that you can't use the stranded cabling in those types of jacks.

Example

Does anyone know for sure? I can get the stranded cable for less than the solid kind but obviously don't want it if I can't use it.

I've also read that solid cable is better when going distances over 25'. Any truth to that? I'll be going up to 60' in my house.

Thanks.

EDIT: Also, maybe I can use the stranded kind of I use the Toolless keystone jacks? I've only ever used the standard punch down type. Any real difference in how they work?

 

[JackMDS]

Solid in the wall, and for Keystone termination.

Stranded only for short flexible patches.

:sun:

 

[Garion]

Yup - Solid core cable is a far better conductor and should be used for premise cabling within your walls. If you're running cabling in any area that has any air that could be breathed by a human (like in a drop ceiling or in a raceway along a wall) be sure to use plenium cabling which isn't (as) toxic when burned as non-plenum.

Solid core cabling is prone to breaking if moved a lot, so you shouldn't use it for patch cables, even if you have some left over. It WILL eventually break and a flakey cable is hard to troubleshoot.

- G

 

[RebateMonger]

There's really no reason to ever buy stranded cable:

a) If you are going to run between jacks, you must use solid cable.
b) You really shouldn't be building your own patch cables, which use stranded cable.

I recommend never, ever using a crimping tool and attaching an RJ45 connector. Buy commercial patch cables with molded strain relief. You can get 15-foot CAT 5e or CAT 6 patch cables from Computergeeks.com and elsewhere for about $1 each.

I see self-made cables, made by "professionals", at the sites I visit. The connectors are often hanging on by the individual wires.

 

[Kelemvor]

Thanks for the info all. I'm not making patch cables, just running cables in my house. I will have to crimp an end on one end so I can plug it into my switch but the other end will terminate in a keystone jack. I've made cables before so I'm not worried about that at all.

Thanks!

 

[Woodie]

Why not end it in a patch panel next to the switch? Then you can patch in all your data runs, plus your phone lines.

 

[Kelemvor]

What would you recommend for patchign in the phones? Never really thought there was a need for a patch panel.

 

[Woodie]

I know our "standard" patch panels at work have most terminations/blocks as RJ45, but they also put in the RJ-11s for the analog phone lines. (Yes, we still have a few...mostly used for war-dialing. )

I've seen one at Home Depot, includes data, phone and video distribution panel. Tie that in w/ a box, a router, video amplifier, and you've got yourself a nice little demarc.

 

[Kelemvor]

Just not sure what I'd need to have phones in there for. Phones in the house already work fine. and redoing all that wiring would be a pain in the butt. heh. Maybe that's something I'll add in later.

 

[p0lar]

Originally posted by: RebateMonger
There's really no reason to ever buy stranded cable:

a) If you are going to run between jacks, you must use solid cable.
b) You really shouldn't be building your own patch cables, which use stranded cable.

I recommend never, ever using a crimping tool and attaching an RJ45 connector. Buy commercial patch cables with molded strain relief. You can get 15-foot CAT 5e or CAT 6 patch cables from Computergeeks.com and elsewhere for about $1 each.

I see self-made cables, made by "professionals", at the sites I visit. The connectors are often hanging on by the individual wires.

In civilized locations -- sure; but what about those sites in 3rd world countries where things aren't wired quite right? I've made everything from V.35 to odd T1/E1/J1 cables to DB{x} -> RJ45, etc etc etc...

Ideally, you should not do it; however, If you must, buy the right tools. I use a metal ring tool with replaceable razors, a set of sharp electrician's scissors, and an AMP crimp tool with replaceable dies. Assuming I don't goof the pinout on something odd, I probably miss about 3/1000 of the time with this setup, with 1-2 of those being issues with the connectors or non-preferential cabling and the others fat-fingered. (yes, I used to keep track!)

If you buy cheap connectors, cable or tools, you will get cheap results -- every time.

That being said, yeah -- I agree, don't do it.