Sub help please...

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IndyColtsFan

Lifer
Sep 22, 2007
33,655
687
126
I've got a BIC F12 and love it.($200) Another option is Klipsch RW-12D that goes on sale a newegg for ~$300 quite often. Only one you have listed I have any knowledge of is the Polk which is a solid sub for the money.

For a movie and gaming use I'd do the F12 but for music I'd do the Klipsch.

I can also recommend the BIC F12 -- a great sub for the money.
 

LikeLinus

Lifer
Jul 25, 2001
11,518
670
126
I've never built the box before. how complicated is it?

It's pretty simple if you are handy with a drill and wood glue. That's really all you need. Use wood glue in-between joints and then use screws to hold the box together. They act as the clamps.

Then you need a tube of silicon to spread across all of the interior joints for a good seal.
 

queequeg99

Senior member
Oct 17, 2001
571
5
81
I concur with LikeLinus. If you are even remotely able to use your hands, putting a parts express kit together should be very easy and the sound will easy beat the pre-mades in your price range. With everything cut to fit, it really is a no-brainer.

If you have a little more facility with wood working, you could consider something a little more ambitious. I have built larger structures before (an outbuilding, and some major remodelling work on my house). But I've never done any "fine" wood working (i.e. making something where reasonably precise measurements were pretty important and wouldn't be covered by sheetrock or sheathing). However, I'm just about to finish my first folded horn (a Bill Fitzmaurice design). I don't know how it will sound, although most who have heard them rave about the performance (especially given the end cost). The build has been a bit slow since I am new at this and am taking great care. However, it's been very straightforward. BTW, I'm building with nothing other than a circular saw, a screw gun, a framing square, a measure tape, and a few clamps (I borrowed my dad's jig saw for ten minutes to cut the baffle and access panel). It's been a really awesome learning experience and if the end result sounds anything like BFM's fan say, I will certainly be building some more.
 

lucky2041

Member
Jan 27, 2013
31
0
0
I am reasonably capable of doing wood work that is very basic. wood glue and using a drill is doable but much beyond that I'd have to learn. For that one from parts express, if wood glue and a drill is all I need, then that might be the way I'll go.
 

Moonrise

Member
Aug 3, 2013
38
0
0
Queequeg99, I am interested in that particular build you are speaking of. I would like to get into making my own sub and speaker boxes and I am always interested in new designs that provide better sound or functionality.

One thing to consider is the type of wood you use as well. Different types have different acoustic properties and as such may be suited for different tasks.
 

LikeLinus

Lifer
Jul 25, 2001
11,518
670
126
I am reasonably capable of doing wood work that is very basic. wood glue and using a drill is doable but much beyond that I'd have to learn. For that one from parts express, if wood glue and a drill is all I need, then that might be the way I'll go.

I forgot that you will also need to cut a hole out for the amp. You will also need a jigsaw. It's pretty easy though as you just layout and mark where you want it, drill holes in the corners so you can insert the jigsaw blade and simply cut the square hole out.

Otherwise all you need is glue and wood screws. There are videos out there

http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs...oofer-cabinet-assembly-installation-guide.pdf
 

queequeg99

Senior member
Oct 17, 2001
571
5
81
Queequeg99, I am interested in that particular build you are speaking of. I would like to get into making my own sub and speaker boxes and I am always interested in new designs that provide better sound or functionality.

One thing to consider is the type of wood you use as well. Different types have different acoustic properties and as such may be suited for different tasks.

Just to follow up: I finished my Tuba 18 build last week and am truly astonished at the results. Sort of like when I built my first computer way back in the day, flipped the switch, and everything booted up fine ("Oh my god, the damn thing actually works!"). I did some side-by-side comparisons with my Hsu VTF-15H (a really monster). When listening to music, the T18 definitely keeps up with the Hsu. However, in the end, the Hsu has greater extension and it shows when listening to certain hard hitting BD movies with lots of really low frequency action scenes at higher volumes. Of course, the Hsu will cost you over $1,000 shipped and weights about 130lbs. The T18 cost me about $250. And since I'm likely going to build another and run it off the same amp, the cost per sub will go down.

Re: music results - I listen to alt-rock for the most part. I used three test songs to compare the subs: Royals by Lorde, Radioactive by Imagine Dragons, and Get Lucky by Daft Punk (all are relatively bass heavy for the kind of music I listen to). The T18 was in the same class as the Hsu when listening to these songs. If I listened to a lot of dub step, results might be different (Hsu should prevail).

Due to WAF issues, I had to restrict myself to the smallest BFM design. If I had been able to go up to something like the Table Tuba or THT, I have little doubt that the Hsu would have faced much stiffer competition at lower frequencies. Now all I have to do is take some care in finishing it. Thankfully, my wife hasn't complained about the big unfinished plywood box that's been sitting in our great room for the last week.

RE: choice of wood. Given the bracing in the BFM designs and the specification of baltic birch as the build material, you end up with a totally rock solid cabinet. There is almost no vibration at all even when volumes are relatively high. I have a bookshelf speaker sitting on my T18 without any rubber feet or other anchoring and have absolutely no worries about it "walking" off the sub during loud passages. People on the BFM forums occasionally ask about using MDF or 3/4" plywood. DON'T DO IT! MDF would be a bitch to work with for this type of project and is heavier. And 3/4" ply doesn't really add substantially to the strength that is already inherent in the design (and also weighs a lot more).
 

LikeLinus

Lifer
Jul 25, 2001
11,518
670
126
So I picked up a Stereo Integrity 18" HT D4 sub for $190 last Wed. I've spent the weekend building a 4 cuft sealed box and I'm excited to put the sub in it. I went 3/4" MDF with 1" dowels for the bracing. I picked up a 10lb box of Polyfill from Walmat today. I will use it for a couple of projects but it was cheaper to buy in larger quantities.

I also got a Peavey IRP 1600 DSP and I will be running the sub into one channel @ 2 ohm. specs say it'll put out 900 watts but real world it's about 650. That's perfect cause SI says to use 600 watts. In the future I will buy another but I need to ease the wife into it and I already have a Dayton 15 HF in a 4.5 cuft box with a 500 Bash Plate.

Box is curing overnight and I can't wait to drop the sub in tomorrow after work and watch something loud with the kids
 
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