SUPER HOT !!!! "xp 2100+" xp1600+ for $51 from newegg. It's crazy !!!!!!!

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stevejst

Banned
May 12, 2002
1,018
0
0
Sahakiel, thanks for the compliments.
If your AGOIA posts the best 162 then I would assume you can get stable Windows only 154-155 or even less? That doesn't sound like a ringing endorsement of overclocking to me. In particular since you are using 8K3A+.
What do you get with 1.85 core as stable in Windows?

And if it was a good deal before than still is, now only $70.
 

DaveF

Member
Jun 8, 2001
120
0
0
Damn, its driving me crazy! In the middle of all this mudslinging and still don't have all my parts in. Will it or won't it overclock? Now I even have to worry about my psu! Stressing me out, man.
 

stevejst

Banned
May 12, 2002
1,018
0
0
What to worry about? What kind of power supply you have now?
You know, you can always spend a little more money and tinker a little more, eventually you'll get it tweaked the way you want. Anandtech is the right place to get some good deals and advices, they always come free.
And when you put your money in computer it might last longer than on the stock market.
 
Oct 16, 1999
10,490
4
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Originally posted by: stevejst
ww4397:

I just "call 'em as I see 'em" and Mother Board Monitor ver5 is reporting the temps as I said in the post above. Maybe its a defective reading as you suggest. But the "proof is in the pudding" and this machine runs flawlessly and is rock solid. So, defective reading, fish tale, wives tale or tall tale or whatever, the GC68 is not causing me any problems whatsoever.


Since you are obviously getting defective reading ... do I have to explain that? ... you really don't know what is going on.
For all you know your CPU could be running 70 or 80 C and you wouldn't know, would you? It won't burn at that temperature but it will die much faster than if it is running 40-50C.
Go to BIOS check the temperature there and if it is the same nonsense then you either have sensors wrong or a defective motherboard. That is not that unusual with "refurbished" motherboards in particular with Epox.

I'm using an SVC Goldengate w/ an 80mm Sunon fan and I've seen my AthlonXP 1700 temps go within 1C of my system temp, but that was at a dead idle with the cover off & running Vcool w/ HALT detect & NB Coolbit enabled. Under a normal idle with no software cooling there's about a 15 degree C difference.
 

stevejst

Banned
May 12, 2002
1,018
0
0
I heard of VCool, but that is good only on idle. What is NB Coolbit? Northbridge bus disconnect bit?
 

Sahakiel

Golden Member
Oct 19, 2001
1,746
0
86
Well, I guess this thread has turned into an argument on overclocking.

At about 155FSB, you get 1700MHz, which is a 2050+ . 2000+ costs about $175 (that was price listed this morning at computer show).
Anyways, in answer to your question/statement/god-knows-what-remark, I have never tried to boot the 1700+ into Windows with an overclocked PCI bus. I have 2x80GB Barracuda IV's that don't seem to like overclocking too much, plus an old, but still good SCSI setup I'm not keen on burning out, especially considering replacement costs. Plus, re-read my last post and note that I'm using one pretty old heatsink that was decent for it's time (cost me $10, but comes with a quiet 80mm fan). Even with 150FSB the drives will slowly return errors (I did this on my last board, 8KHA+), so I only tinker with memory and FSB in multiples of 33. I'm considering getting nForce2, cause I hear nForce has locked PCI/AGP.
Oh, and I've never upped the VCore past default. I've only had this chip for a couple months (Got it in May) and haven't had the chance to try it out with winter weather. Summer's bloody hot, so I underclock (see previous post). If you really want to know how far I can push it, wait until winter rolls around and I get a new heatsink (This one I bought long ago for a Duron 600. Baby hit 800+, too, if I remember correctly).
About that "ringing endorsement of overclocking", you can see it how you want, I never said AMD overclocks well, nor did I say it overclocks bad, either. I just said for the money, 1600+ for $65 seemed to be a good deal given my personal experience with a sibling. I have also tinkered with a 1.6A and VIA mobo combo from Fry's. That chip hit 127 and stopped. I couldn't up that thing any farther, even with max voltage (which was like 0.1V, I think. If you're thinking "Voltage mod", I didn't wanna burn the chip in summer heat and only reason I upped it was cause it runs cool to begin with) So, anyway, I backed it down to 100 so I wouldn't kill my PCI cards, and booted to WinXP. I ran this and, boy, was I surprised. My 1700+ could crunch 800K iteration points per second, 600K at 1100MHz, but this pitiful 1.6a could barely manage 250K. I ran Metal of Honor, and noticed 60+FPS when switching maps (It's usually above 90, even with a Radeon 7500 PCI).
Suffice it to say, I returned the combo. Figured even at 133MHz, the memory (Good old Corsair PC2400) would pretty much reduce performance unless I switched to Rambus, and I don't exactly have deep pockets. That's why I bought an AMD setup in the first place. Good bang for low buck, even considering overclocking. For the kinds of programs I run, at least.
So, in conclusion, I still think this is a good deal. It may change when new steppings come out, but for now, my experience has told me AMD will give best bang/buck when considering light (aka, no peltier, water, $50 heatsinks) overclocking. When Intel puts out a dual channel DDR board, I may change my mind. If you really want to get into which chip overclocks better, I think it's time for a new forum.
 

JJd

Senior member
Apr 20, 2000
343
0
0
It amazes me how much I don't know about this entire thread and how much time I'm saving, however, something inside me is wanting to get inolved.
 

Parn

Senior member
Mar 20, 2001
957
0
0
Originally posted by: 007
Just got mine, an agoia. Overclocked straight to 9.8 gigahertz! Only mod necessary was adding a 3.8 gigawatt flux capacitor and a small dilithium crystal. Didn't even require a heatsink! Newegg rulez!


Now all you need is some plutonium or a clock tower that will make lightning hit it with a cable running to your powersource =)

Let me know when you tried travelling in time with your computer.
 

Parn

Senior member
Mar 20, 2001
957
0
0
So what power source is adequate for overclocking the 1600+, or even a non-overclocked 2000+?

Does a 300watt source do? Assuming the system has the usual components?

say it has a cd-rom drive, sound card, and one hard drive, network card, and a floppy drive.
 

drewdogg808

Golden Member
Oct 1, 2000
1,513
0
71
So what power source is adequate for overclocking the 1600+, or even a non-overclocked 2000+?
if the 300 watt is a really good quality one, then maybe. but these days, most people will agree that 350 watts and up is recommended. try to go with an antec tru power or enermax.
 

dirtweasel

Member
Jun 1, 2000
120
0
0
in ya'll's opinions, how would this processor overclocked compare to the p4 1.6 overclocked? both chips seem particulary overclockable. but performance wise (for the money), which one would a faster setup?


dirty.
 

railer

Golden Member
Apr 15, 2000
1,552
68
91
Your 300w ps should be fine. I ran my 1800 on a no name junk 250w ps for a while in a pinch...worked OK. As long as you don't have 30 HD's and 15 fans you should be just fine....
 

Oceanus

Member
May 10, 2001
128
0
0
dirty -

It depends...

IF money is not tight I would say the Intel P4 1.6A, RAMBUS solution
IF money is a factor (and for most it is), then AMD-DDR looks like a better value

Understand there is chance involved but research & planning can improve your odds

(I have a ordered: XP-1600, KR7A-RAID, 2x256 PC21000, & SVC GC68 for <$200)
 

dirtweasel

Member
Jun 1, 2000
120
0
0
thanks for the info. that's just the setup i was planning on (event he hs/fan).

what i'm concerned about is the 1/4 divider on the abit kr7a raid. thought i might need a board with a 1/5 divider (or is there a bios update for the kr7a that will do this?). i have good pci cards (sb live! and a netgear nic and geforce agp card).

just wanted a little reassurance before splurging.


dirty.
 

mobogasm

Golden Member
Oct 25, 1999
1,033
0
0
Could someone tell me if these are able to be modded to be MP processors. I'm looking to setup a 2x1600+MP setup on a Tyan MB with some ECC ram. Could someone let me know if this will work and point me in the direction as to how to do it (a website would suffice). I tried searching but could only find stuff on modding XP's to unlock their busses. Thanks.
 

railer

Golden Member
Apr 15, 2000
1,552
68
91
Holy friggin' crap. Ordered one of these last week for $66 shipped...just got it today. AGOIA stepping. Runs at 166 mhz fsb at defaut voltage with a WBK38 (damn that's a loud ass fan). I was running at 1800 mhz (171 fsb, I think) at .25 over nominal voltage. Stable as hell in quake III for the 15 min or so I played. This is replacing my AGOGA retail 1800 XP. Just need to unlock it now, 'cause I don' want to scramble my HD running at such a high FSB. (8KHA+ if anyone cares). Great chip! Great stepping! Great price! Get one now!!!!
 

Mac

Senior member
Oct 31, 1999
728
0
76
After reading through this thread, decided to purchase the CPU from Newegg and one of the GC68 coolers from SVC.

The CPU was the AGOIA stepping. Unfortunately, I can't get it to run stable in Win98SE. I replaced a regular 1000/266FSB Tbird which was stable as a rock. The new CPU crashes almost immediately after Windows starts to display the desktop. Will run fine in Safe Mode. Nothing else changed. Haven't figured it out, yet. Same memory settings, etc. Reports the correct speed, identifies it as a 1600xp. Only thing changed is the multiplier. Finally, gave up and put the old CPU back in, system ran fine again.

Onto a more positive note, the GC68 was a very pleasant surprise in most respects. Workmanship is very good, no need to lap the bottom. Rather large but relatively quiet (silent compared to a Delta). Definitely worth the $6 + ship. Typical temp was around 100F with 107F as the high. Not bad at all, but then never really got to stress it either :frown:.

The only negative about the cooler is the latch. Wasn't much fun installing, even worse to remove. Very unfriendly. Will not use the cooler again until I am sure that a CPU is ready for final installation. With that being said, the GC68 is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

Would welcome any thoughts on the apparent CPU incompatibility.
 

stevejst

Banned
May 12, 2002
1,018
0
0
XPs can run on dual mobos though that is not recommended. Depends on the motherboard anyway.
107F good? I run $7 Coolermaster on my XP 1700 with front bus of 140 Mhz and there is never anything over 105F though my room temperature is never over 75F either. AC helps. Plus installing Coolermaster is a brease.
 

RobsTV

Platinum Member
Feb 11, 2000
2,520
0
0
Mac
Check your motherboards website to confirm that your motherboard handles the XP. Some don't
Also, try some other Bios from the website if it does support XP.

100 to 107 degrees is awesome, and would be great to have.
Most use Celsius though when talking about PC temps.
100F to 107F equals 38c to 42c.
Most run AMD's without fear at 122F/50c, and really concern needs to set in if you are hitting temps that cause problems.
The temp that errors set in (lockups, crashes, etc), varies by motherboard, but for "most" it starts around 135F/57c.
 

Mac

Senior member
Oct 31, 1999
728
0
76
RobsTV,

The mobo in question was an EPOX K8HA+ with latest bios. It should be compatible with an XP. Since posting, I installed the 1600+xp CPU on an Abit KR7A-R which I have been assembling. The CPU came up OK except for some weird artifacts which appear when viewing photos...jpg's were all that I had so may also appear in gif's and bmp's. Aside from the mobo's, the main differences were OS, WinMe on the Abit (which I am wiping out and replacing with 98SE over the weekend), graphics (GeForce GTS 2 (Abit) and Radeon (Epox). I'm thinking it may be a PSU issue also. The Epox has an inexpensive 300W PSU from CompUSA, however runs rock solid with the 1000/266 Tbird.

Regarding the temps, it went up on the Abit to about 45C/113F. Difference is probably due to variability between the sensors on the mobo's. Still not bad for a $6 cooler. I really like the stock 32CFM 80mm fan, very quiet. Regarding the install of the GC68, a little easier on the Abit. Abit usually gets slammed on their board designs because of the socket placement. I think it is one of the better designs if you don't mind removing the PSU when swapping coolers or CPU's. You merely remove the 4 screws and move the PSU out of the way, probably on top of the 5.25" cage. You now have plenty of room to work but more importantly, you aren't risking putting a screwdriver through your precious mobo in the event it slips off of the retaining clip of cooler.

Back OT, great price on the CPU and hats off to Newegg. Was concerned about the 7 day warranty on the CPU so sent an email to their customer service requesting an RMA. Received a reply with RMA number within 2 hours. Great response time and no hassle. Given my experience on the Abit, I'm going to work on it over the weekend to see if it is something within the OS/Driver install.

One question for the group, I have started using Artic Silver thermal compound. If you have any experience with this stuff, you have learned it is difficult to wipe off of a CPU without smearing it badly all over the place. My concern is that I assume the Artic Silver is electro conductive due to the metal content. Has anyone had any instances of bridges on the CPU shorting out? Inquiring minds want to know.
 

jktam

Member
Apr 11, 2001
95
0
0
just put together my system yesterday. it was the AGOIA cpu. got a ABIT KR7A with a radeon 8500. booted up with a glitch on the first time, so went to bios and corrected the 1500+ to 1600+. don't know why that would be a misread. but oh well. haven't pushed it to the limits yet. it was around 2am when i finally got it up and running on my old OS win98 se. gonna format today with windows xp just to clear the hard drive out. the artic silver3 was a little bit of a hassle to put on but other than that everything went smoothly. haven't checked the cpu temp yet. can you only check that in the bios or is it somewhere in windows too?

can't wait to overclock the biyatch!

jt
 

HKS

Senior member
Oct 27, 2000
238
0
0
Originally posted by: ww4397
Originally posted by: stevejst
ww4397:

The GC68 keeps my cpu to within 1-2 degrees C above the System temp.

ww, you are either dreaming or getting defective reading. No cooler can do something like that, not even "the miraculous GC68."
How far will these fish tales go? Anybody more?


I just "call 'em as I see 'em" and Mother Board Monitor ver5 is reporting the temps as I said in the post above. Maybe its a defective reading as you suggest. But the "proof is in the pudding" and this machine runs flawlessly and is rock solid. So, defective reading, fish tale, wives tale or tall tale or whatever, the GC68 is not causing me any problems whatsoever.

Sorry guy, you must have your MBM5 setup wrong. Make sure you select the proper sensors and chipset for your motherboard, because there is no way that your cpu is running only 2 degrees higher than ambient. If it is, it's because your temperature thermocouple for the cpu isn't touching the chip, it must be off in space somewhere... LOL. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking the XP1600, I have a 1700@2000 (nothing as good as you guys, but decent) I'm just saying, there's no way that your chip and system could be that close in temperature... where would the heat from your chip dissipate to?


 

DaHan

Senior member
Oct 30, 1999
503
0
0
For those who got the CPU, but no luck with your old MB, here's another refb deal from newegg.

EPOX 8K3A KT333CE DDR333 266MHz FSB ATA133 Socket A MOTHERBOARD - With Audio

For $55

17 left
 
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