synthetic oil question

[Tsunami982]

my friend works at a dealership and hooks me up with free oil changes. i guess he started putting in synthetic oil (mobil one) at 5-6k. i heard people recommend that you not switch to synthetic until after 10k and was wondering if anyone knew why and how it might affect your car if you switch over early. i know its not going to blow up or anything but was just wondering about the rational behind the 10k wait. thanks.

 

[McCarthy]

The rational is synthetic lubricates too well and doesn't allow the rings to seat....I'm dubious at best. Anyway, your rings have been seated since the engine had 20 minutes on it, and everything's worn about as much by 6k as it's going to wear for the next 100,000+ assuming you keep clean oil in it. Synthetic is nice, dino sludge is perfectly fine too for that matter, but since you've got a nice new car and are thinking about oil I suggest you do a search on Fram filters in this forum. Most dealerships use better filters than that, but it varies by brand of car/brand of OEM filter. Might be worth bringing your own filter especially if you're getting the oil free. Personally I run Castrol Syntech because it's a reasonably priced sythblend along with a Purolator Pure1 filter. That's going to be my combo for a long long time.

May your car live a long, smooth running life.

 

[Tsunami982]

Originally posted by: McCarthy
The rational is synthetic lubricates too well and doesn't allow the rings to seat....I'm dubious at best. Anyway, your rings have been seated since the engine had 20 minutes on it, and everything's worn about as much by 6k as it's going to wear for the next 100,000+ assuming you keep clean oil in it. Synthetic is nice, dino sludge is perfectly fine too for that matter, but since you've got a nice new car and are thinking about oil I suggest you do a search on Fram filters in this forum. Most dealerships use better filters than that, but it varies by brand of car/brand of OEM filter. Might be worth bringing your own filter especially if you're getting the oil free. Personally I run Castrol Syntech because it's a reasonably priced sythblend along with a Purolator Pure1 filter. That's going to be my combo for a long long time.

May your car live a long, smooth running life.

what would be the best oil in your opinion? i ran my old truck to the ground so im being overly careful with the new one.

 

[0roo0roo]

best is change every 5k on the dot. if you idle a ton, make insanely short trips, or drive like a maniac the interval gets more often.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: McCarthy
The rational is synthetic lubricates too well and doesn't allow the rings to seat....I'm dubious at best. Anyway, your rings have been seated since the engine had 20 minutes on it, and everything's worn about as much by 6k as it's going to wear for the next 100,000+ assuming you keep clean oil in it. Synthetic is nice, dino sludge is perfectly fine too for that matter, but since you've got a nice new car and are thinking about oil I suggest you do a search on Fram filters in this forum. Most dealerships use better filters than that, but it varies by brand of car/brand of OEM filter. Might be worth bringing your own filter especially if you're getting the oil free. Personally I run Castrol Syntech because it's a reasonably priced sythblend along with a Purolator Pure1 filter. That's going to be my combo for a long long time.

May your car live a long, smooth running life.

That is absolutely NOT the rationale behind waiting to use synthetic.

Think about it; the day someone finds a lubricant that STOPS engine wear from happening, we will all know about it. Synthetic doesen't prevent anything from seating.

The rationale is that it is simply a waste of money. Why use expensive synthetic when you're going to have to change it out in a couple of thousand miles.. out of necessity?

Just remember that the only thing more important than the oil itself, is your filtration systems. If you have a K&N air filter, you are doing yourself a disservice.

 

[0roo0roo]

yea..costly. kraggen has shell motor oil for like 50 cents qt after rebate. 1qt of synth is 4bux minimum.

 

[m2kewl]

Originally posted by: Eli
If you have a K&N air filter, you are doing yourself a disservice.

WTF?? :| Eli i demand proof?!?!?!

i've had them on very honda owned, w/o issues.

 

[sao123]

And now these messages from your actual local mechanic.

At one point in time, it was necessary to wait 1-2 oil changes for break in, before switching to full synthetic because it would cause the engine seals to leak.
Synthetic oil has been reformulated within the last 5 years to eliminate this problem.

Several cars now actually use full synthetic direct from the factory.
Cadillac CTS, XLR, SRX and STS
Chevrolet Corvette
Dodge Viper
Mercedes-Benz
Mitsubishi EVO
Pontiac GTO
Porsche

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: m2kewl

Originally posted by: Eli
If you have a K&N air filter, you are doing yourself a disservice.

WTF?? :| Eli i demand proof?!?!?!

i've had them on very honda owned, w/o issues.

It's not necessarily that you're going to have issues.. It's just the fact that they don't filter as well as the stock paper filters.

Physics. All else being equal(primarily surface area), the filter that flows the most air will also flow the most dirt.

Text

It probably isn't THAT big of a deal. It also depends on your goal. If you like the +5HP(If you're lucky) and don't plan on keeping the car very long, it probably doesen't matter what you do.

But it's true. Anything your air filter misses will eventually make it into your oil, where your oil filter will have to pick up the slack. Unfortunately, most oil filters aren't very good at filtering the smallest wear-causing particles.

 

[yougotdeals]

I started using long life Royal Purple oil, and it's worked just fine in a car with 80K miles on it. I usually use Wix, but will use Fram filters too. Fram has really stepped up their quality in recent years due to the fact they were exposed years ago (their filters were junk). We took a lathe recently anc cut open several different filters and Fram was about on par with the rest, allot of the bad rap Fram gets now is still spillover from years ago when they made junk.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: yougotdeals
I started using long life Royal Purple oil, and it's worked just fine in a car with 80K miles on it. I usually use Wix, but will use Fram filters too. Fram has really stepped up their quality in recent years due to the fact they were exposed years ago (their filters were junk).

They are still junk. Cardboard end caps. 'Nuff said.

Fram's higher end filters are better, but there are still other brands that are higher quality and about the same price.

 

[yougotdeals]

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: yougotdeals
I started using long life Royal Purple oil, and it's worked just fine in a car with 80K miles on it. I usually use Wix, but will use Fram filters too. Fram has really stepped up their quality in recent years due to the fact they were exposed years ago (their filters were junk).

They are still junk. Cardboard end caps. 'Nuff said.

Fram's higher end filters are better, but there are still other brands that are higher quality and about the same price.

The Fram I cut open did not have a cardboard end cap. But if you want to play it safe there are plenty of other options out there.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: yougotdeals

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: yougotdeals
I started using long life Royal Purple oil, and it's worked just fine in a car with 80K miles on it. I usually use Wix, but will use Fram filters too. Fram has really stepped up their quality in recent years due to the fact they were exposed years ago (their filters were junk).

They are still junk. Cardboard end caps. 'Nuff said.

Fram's higher end filters are better, but there are still other brands that are higher quality and about the same price.

The Fram I cut open did not have a cardboard end cap. But if you want to play it safe there are plenty of other options out there.

Yeah, their ToughGuard or X2 or whatever filters are more reasonable in their construction.

There was a bit of bad internet publicity for them a couple of month back, when some people on a truck message board were cutting open their fram filters, only to find the media burst...

 

[Triumph]

The lubrication properties of synthetic oil are not significantly better than regular motor oil, if at all. Their benefit comes from thermal strength - they don't break down at high temperatures and can maintain their cooling/lubricating properties for a longer time.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: Triumph
The lubrication properties of synthetic oil are not significantly better than regular motor oil, if at all. Their benefit comes from thermal strength - they don't break down at high temperatures and can maintain their cooling/lubricating properties for a longer time.

:thumbsup:

That, and the fact that most(NOT ALL) synthetic oils have a more robust additive package, further enhancing oil longevity.

 

[jaedaliu]

Originally posted by: Tsunami982

Originally posted by: McCarthy
The rational is synthetic lubricates too well and doesn't allow the rings to seat....I'm dubious at best. Anyway, your rings have been seated since the engine had 20 minutes on it, and everything's worn about as much by 6k as it's going to wear for the next 100,000+ assuming you keep clean oil in it. Synthetic is nice, dino sludge is perfectly fine too for that matter, but since you've got a nice new car and are thinking about oil I suggest you do a search on Fram filters in this forum. Most dealerships use better filters than that, but it varies by brand of car/brand of OEM filter. Might be worth bringing your own filter especially if you're getting the oil free. Personally I run Castrol Syntech because it's a reasonably priced sythblend along with a Purolator Pure1 filter. That's going to be my combo for a long long time.

May your car live a long, smooth running life.

what would be the best oil in your opinion? i ran my old truck to the ground so im being overly careful with the new one.

I'd look into AMSOIL, they have 25k mile synthetic oils (though the filters still need to be replaced every so often (i think spec is 6k miles but i've heard twice a year is enough)) GM vehicles have a warning light that goes on when the oil needs to be replaced. There's no advantage to replacing more often than that.

but mobile 1 has a 7.5k mile advertised change interval, and since your buddy's giving it to you for free, just stick with it; I'm sure it protects well.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: jaedaliu

Originally posted by: Tsunami982

Originally posted by: McCarthy
The rational is synthetic lubricates too well and doesn't allow the rings to seat....I'm dubious at best. Anyway, your rings have been seated since the engine had 20 minutes on it, and everything's worn about as much by 6k as it's going to wear for the next 100,000+ assuming you keep clean oil in it. Synthetic is nice, dino sludge is perfectly fine too for that matter, but since you've got a nice new car and are thinking about oil I suggest you do a search on Fram filters in this forum. Most dealerships use better filters than that, but it varies by brand of car/brand of OEM filter. Might be worth bringing your own filter especially if you're getting the oil free. Personally I run Castrol Syntech because it's a reasonably priced sythblend along with a Purolator Pure1 filter. That's going to be my combo for a long long time.

May your car live a long, smooth running life.

what would be the best oil in your opinion? i ran my old truck to the ground so im being overly careful with the new one.

I'd look into AMSOIL, they have 25k mile synthetic oils (though the filters still need to be replaced every so often (i think spec is 6k miles but i've heard twice a year is enough)) GM vehicles have a warning light that goes on when the oil needs to be replaced. There's no advantage to replacing more often than that.

but mobile 1 has a 7.5k mile advertised change interval, and since your buddy's giving it to you for free, just stick with it; I'm sure it protects well.

Don't even think about leaving any oil in your crankcase for 25,000 miles unless you plan on doing oil analysis, regardless of filter changes.

I would never pay any attention to any "Oil change light". It's an idiot light at best.

 

[yougotdeals]

Originally posted by: jaedaliu

Originally posted by: Tsunami982

Originally posted by: McCarthy
The rational is synthetic lubricates too well and doesn't allow the rings to seat....I'm dubious at best. Anyway, your rings have been seated since the engine had 20 minutes on it, and everything's worn about as much by 6k as it's going to wear for the next 100,000+ assuming you keep clean oil in it. Synthetic is nice, dino sludge is perfectly fine too for that matter, but since you've got a nice new car and are thinking about oil I suggest you do a search on Fram filters in this forum. Most dealerships use better filters than that, but it varies by brand of car/brand of OEM filter. Might be worth bringing your own filter especially if you're getting the oil free. Personally I run Castrol Syntech because it's a reasonably priced sythblend along with a Purolator Pure1 filter. That's going to be my combo for a long long time.

May your car live a long, smooth running life.

what would be the best oil in your opinion? i ran my old truck to the ground so im being overly careful with the new one.

I'd look into AMSOIL, they have 25k mile synthetic oils (though the filters still need to be replaced every so often (i think spec is 6k miles but i've heard twice a year is enough)) GM vehicles have a warning light that goes on when the oil needs to be replaced. There's no advantage to replacing more often than that.

but mobile 1 has a 7.5k mile advertised change interval, and since your buddy's giving it to you for free, just stick with it; I'm sure it protects well.

The new Long Life Mobile 1, Royal Purple, Amosil and RedLine are all excellent long life oils.

 

[jaedaliu]

Originally posted by: Eli

<--- snip--->

Don't even think about leaving any oil in your crankcase for 25,000 miles unless you plan on doing oil analysis, regardless of filter changes.

right, i forgot to add the "or 1 year, whichever comes first" i think the 25k is more for traveling salesman and courier services whose cars go highway 10 hours a day.

 

[StageLeft]

yer fine

 

[0roo0roo]

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: yougotdeals

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: yougotdeals
I started using long life Royal Purple oil, and it's worked just fine in a car with 80K miles on it. I usually use Wix, but will use Fram filters too. Fram has really stepped up their quality in recent years due to the fact they were exposed years ago (their filters were junk).

They are still junk. Cardboard end caps. 'Nuff said.

Fram's higher end filters are better, but there are still other brands that are higher quality and about the same price.

The Fram I cut open did not have a cardboard end cap. But if you want to play it safe there are plenty of other options out there.

Yeah, their ToughGuard or X2 or whatever filters are more reasonable in their construction.

There was a bit of bad internet publicity for them a couple of month back, when some people on a truck message board were cutting open their fram filters, only to find the media burst...

wallyworld filters are 2 dollars and supposedly better though

 

[yougotdeals]

Originally posted by: Eli

I would never pay any attention to any "Oil change light". It's an idiot light at best.

That's sort of what I was thinking.

 

[Sundog]

Originally posted by: jaedaliu

Originally posted by: Eli

<--- snip--->

Don't even think about leaving any oil in your crankcase for 25,000 miles unless you plan on doing oil analysis, regardless of filter changes.

right, i forgot to add the "or 1 year, whichever comes first" i think the 25k is more for traveling salesman and courier services whose cars go highway 10 hours a day.

Or for someone who will put 2200 miles on a vehicle in 36 hours.

The one year or 25K AMSoil synthetic works just fine, I use the 0W-30. Have done it with several vehicles switching them over to AMSoil at 1000 miles. Never, ever had a crankcase issue, the rest of the damn american made vehicles seem to fall apart---but nothing related to the oil.

BTW---An oil analysis is critical if you are doing the 1 year service interval. Sh%t-----my oil analysis caught a leaky intake manifold gasket that probably would not have been caught right away otherwise and caused some damage.

 

[Sundog]

Originally posted by: 0roo0roo

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: yougotdeals

Originally posted by: Eli

Originally posted by: yougotdeals
I started using long life Royal Purple oil, and it's worked just fine in a car with 80K miles on it. I usually use Wix, but will use Fram filters too. Fram has really stepped up their quality in recent years due to the fact they were exposed years ago (their filters were junk).

They are still junk. Cardboard end caps. 'Nuff said.

Fram's higher end filters are better, but there are still other brands that are higher quality and about the same price.

The Fram I cut open did not have a cardboard end cap. But if you want to play it safe there are plenty of other options out there.

Yeah, their ToughGuard or X2 or whatever filters are more reasonable in their construction.

There was a bit of bad internet publicity for them a couple of month back, when some people on a truck message board were cutting open their fram filters, only to find the media burst...

wallyworld filters are 2 dollars and supposedly better though

You get what you pay for. Go ahead and put in a $2 oil filter...don't come b$tch when something happens. I'll be sticking with the AMSoil or Hastings filters.

 

[radioouman]

Originally posted by: yougotdeals

Originally posted by: Eli

I would never pay any attention to any "Oil change light". It's an idiot light at best.

That's sort of what I was thinking.

DO you know what the warning light actually does?
It takes three inputs: Engine temperature, engine speed (RPMs), and mileage since the last time it was reset and makes a good guess about when the oil should be changed.
It doesn't actually check the oil! You could be 2 quarts low and the system would never know. If you forget to reset the light, you are screwed.
The interval will not change if you use the best synthetic vs. the worst dino.