Taiyo Yuden Inkjet Printable 8X DVD-R $0.39/Disc Shipped. No rebate

[darkrain]

the deal is live again. 100 pack Taiyo Yuden white inkjet hub printable 8X DVD-R at $39.99 shipped. Or 200 pack at $78.99 shipped. The best price for the best DVD media.

LINK HERE

 

[opera]

Thanks for this info.

 

[MoFoEd]

Just ordered, good deal.

 

[13Gigatons]

Rima has the same deal: http://www.rima.com/Merchant2/merchant....Code=1760-100&Category_Code=TAIYOYUDEN

Don't know if it's free shipping though but the resellerrattings are better.

 

[feelingshorter]

blah, i dont need them printable...i need them cheap!

 

[MrX8503]

Once you have a cd printable printer with these discs you'll never go back to sharpie again.

EDIT: These really ARE cheap for printables.

Also, supermediastore GAURANTEES that they are taiyus.

 

[darkrain]

Rima doesn't have free shipping. Supermediastore's deal is better. Approx. $6 cheaper.

 

[Xponential]

What's so great about Taiyo Yuden media?? Not being sarcastic, just curious. I don't know that much about DVD media.

 

[MrX8503]

Originally posted by: Xponential
What's so great about Taiyo Yuden media?? Not being sarcastic, just curious. I don't know that much about DVD media.

The best and most reliable dvd media you can get.

Verbatim is also the next best media, but also costs more.

 

[Xponential]

Originally posted by: MrX8503

Originally posted by: Xponential
What's so great about Taiyo Yuden media?? Not being sarcastic, just curious. I don't know that much about DVD media.

The best and most reliable dvd media you can get.

Verbatim is also the next best media, but also costs more.

Are their any reviews or articles I could read on this??

 

[13Gigatons]

Originally posted by: Xponential
What's so great about Taiyo Yuden media?? Not being sarcastic, just curious. I don't know that much about DVD media.

It's first class media:

Media ID Quality Guide

The following list is in preference order. The best discs are near the top of the list. The discs at the bottom of the list are suitable only for a landfill. PVC is the best of all, LONGTEN is the worst of all, etc. Note: Some codes may be listed twice, done because a -R, -RW, +RW and +R by the same company may not be the same quality. The format is listed because of this.

1ST CLASS MEDIA
Almost flawless burns with 95-100% reliable results:
PVC = Pioneer (Japan) = (-R)(-RW) ... media is no longer made
MXLRG0x = Maxell (Japan) = (-R)(-RW)
YUDENT, TYG0x = Taiyo Yuden (Japan) = (-R)(+R)
MCC, MKM = Mitsubishi Chemicals (Singapore/Taiwan) = (-R)(-RW)(+R)(+RW)
TDK, TTG0x, TTH0x = TDK Corp (Taiwan/Japan) = (-R)(-RW)
SONY0xD = Sony (Japan/Taiwan) = (-R)(-RW)

2ND CLASS MEDIA
Decent discs, though not perfect, about 80-95% success rate:
RICOHJPN = Ritek or Ricoh (Taiwan) = (+R)(+RW)
PRODISC = Prodisc Media (Taiwan) = (-R)(+R)
RITEK = Ritek (Taiwan) = (+R)(-R)(-RW)(+RW)
FUJIFILM = Fuji = (-R)(+R)
OPTODISC = Optodisc = (-R)
INFODISC = Infodisc Media = (+RW)

3RD CLASS MEDIA
Quality can be very questionable, about 50-80% success rate:
LEADDATA, LD01, LD, LEDA = Lead Data = (-R)(-RW)
BEALL = Samsung BeAll (Taiwan) = (-R)(+R)
MBI = Moser Beaur (India) = (-R)(+R)(+RW)
MAM-A, MAM-E (USA, Europe) = Mitsui = (-R)
PRINCO, fake TDK = Princo (Taiwan) = (-R)(-RW)
ONIDTECH = Ul Tran Technology (Taiwan) = (-R)
MUST = Unknown OEM = (-R)
GSC001, GSC002 = Gigastorage (Taiwan) = (-R)(+R)
CMC, CMCMAG = CMC Magnetics (Taiwan) = (+R)
PHILIPS = Philips (Taiwan) = (+RW)

4TH CLASS MEDIA
Pathetic garbage media, landfill material, about 0-50% success rate:
CMC, CMCMAG = CMC Magnetics (Taiwan) = (-R)
PIODATA, PIO = LeadData/ Ritek (Taiwan) = (-R))(+R)
OPTODISC = Optodisc (Taiwan) = (+R)(+RW)
LONGTEN = Jilin Qingda (China) = (-R)
YIJHAN = Yi Jhan Technology (Taiwan) = (-R)
ALL FAKE MEDIA = mostly InfoSmart (HK), E-Net (UK) and Mitsui (USA,Europe)
AN31, AN32, ANWELL, AN30 = "default" stamper code (usually Infosmart) = (-R)
AML = Advance Media Limited (Taiwan) = (-R)
INFOSMART, ISO001 = Infosmart (China) = (-R)(+R)
DAXON = BenQ/Acer (+R)(-R)
VANGUARD, VDSPMS = Unknown OEM = (-R)
UME001 = UmeDisc (Hong Kong) = (-R)
WFKA = Wealthfair Investment (China) = (-R)(+R)

ANYTHING ELSE = Unknown OEM or NEW

 

[gedman]

The above list is most definitely "borrowed" from www.nomorecoasters.com / www.digitalfaq.com. Many people disagree with certain entries in the list. (I, for example, have found Optodisk +R DVDs to be great quality, but the list as them rated as "Pathetic garbage".)

If you really want to know way too much about DVD media, check out the fourms at CDfreaks.com.

GedMan

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: gedman
The above list is most definitely "borrowed" from www.nomorecoasters.com / www.digitalfaq.com. Many people disagree with certain entries in the list. (I, for example, have found Optodisk +R DVDs to be great quality, but the list as them rated as "Pathetic garbage".)

If you really want to know way too much about DVD media, check out the fourms at CDfreaks.com.

GedMan

Yep. That and ritek/ridata needs to be put in 4th class NOW. Damm they suck now. My CMC/Staples DVD+R disc are better then Ritek/Ridata now.

 

[pcmax]

Originally posted by: MrX8503

Originally posted by: Xponential
What's so great about Taiyo Yuden media?? Not being sarcastic, just curious. I don't know that much about DVD media.

The best and most reliable dvd media you can get.

Verbatim is also the next best media, but also costs more.

Samsclub has 100 packs of Verbaitm 16X +/-R's for $41.63, great media but not hub printable fyi.

 

[gedman]

The bottom line is that the result of any DVD burn is based on the interaction between the burner and the media. Some burners might burn Ritek DVD+R very well, and others do not (for example).

Of course, some media are known to work well in most burners (such as TY media). However, the only way to know what works best for your particular burner is to read (and understand) the burn scans posted at CDFreaks. Or, even better, get samples of a bunch of DVD media and burn them in your burner - and then do a scan to check the quality of the results.

Truthfully, lists of "good" and "bad" media are misleading and should be disregarded. (Most of the active members of the CDfreaks Media forum disregard them.)

GedMan

 

[pcmax]

Originally posted by: gedman
The bottom line is that the result of any DVD burn is based on the interaction between the burner and the media. Some burners might burn Ritek DVD+R very well, and others do not (for example).

Of course, some media are known to work well in most burners (such as TY media). However, the only way to know what works best for your particular burner is to read (and understand) the burn scans posted at CDFreaks. Or, even better, get samples of a bunch of DVD media and burn them in your burner - and then do a scan to check the quality of the results.

Truthfully, lists of "good" and "bad" media are misleading and should be disregarded. (Most of the active members of the CDfreaks Media forum disregard them.)

GedMan

Well said!

 

[THRILLHOv]

I have been waiting for a good deal on printable TYs Thanks a lot... this is my first time buying media on line,
i normally buy fuji (made in japan) from BB
glad they were out of the 100 for $30 this week.

 

[SimMike2]

I got some of these last year and am not impressed. I've yet to see where Taiyo is so great. These particular disks demonstrate the same problem I see in other cheap, generic cake-box brands, which is dropping frames in playback on my main DVD player. Some may say my DVD player is the problem. This isn't so because other brands, Verbatim 16X being the best, play just fine. Even some LeadData generic disks I bought three years ago play more reliably than Taiyo. And I've had three different burners, so I don't think it is the particular burner.

IMHO, always go for name-brand media, that is media branded by someone like Verbatim. Generic stuff that is supposedly manufactured by Taiyo, or whoever, is kind of a guessing game because you never know if you are getting B grade manufacturing from Taiyo, or even counterfeit stuff.

 

[THRILLHOv]

as someone said above, its all about the DVD burner + the media (and as youve proven the dvd player)
i had an APEX DVD player that worked best with crappy hi-val media .... i think that kind of behavior is the exception, rather than the usual.
TY has been the longest lasting good quality discs for me in the bettery quality players.
its all trial and error. buy a few TYs first and see how they work for you

 

[darkrain]

I believe another reason people like Taiyo Yuden besides compatibility, playback quality is DATA LONGEVITY.

"There is a lot of cheap CDR and DVDR media that has marginal quality. For some applications like games, quality isn?t critical. For irreplaceable, vital data like family photos, special events, vacations and family/friends memories quality does matter. If you are backing up mission critical data on your home or business computer, quality matters. Then it is important to select a brand of media that will keep your data safe, secure and available for years to come."

Quality and low prices just don?t seem to mix!

The next step to long-term data reliability is to handle and store the media with the respect your data deserves.

http://www.hometoys.com/htinews/jun04/articles/marken/longevity.htm

An pratical way to test data longevity is to expose the recording surface of DVD discs to sunshine for a few hours or days. You can compare the read and write results between cheap DVDs and Taiyo Yuden DVDs. I believe you can find the difference.

 

[13Gigatons]

Originally posted by: gedman
The bottom line is that the result of any DVD burn is based on the interaction between the burner and the media. Some burners might burn Ritek DVD+R very well, and others do not (for example).

Of course, some media are known to work well in most burners (such as TY media). However, the only way to know what works best for your particular burner is to read (and understand) the burn scans posted at CDFreaks. Or, even better, get samples of a bunch of DVD media and burn them in your burner - and then do a scan to check the quality of the results.

Truthfully, lists of "good" and "bad" media are misleading and should be disregarded. (Most of the active members of the CDfreaks Media forum disregard them.)

GedMan

My Own List:

1. TY is excellent media.
2. TY works GREAT with MOST dvd burners but not all.
3. First Class media is a GOOD rule to follow.
4. Data longevity is as important as getting a good burn on the first day.
5. A lot of decent DVD media is now junk, like Ritek.
6. The list is somewhat dynamic except I haven't seen any First Class media become junk just yet, their are rumors about MCC though.

7. Is 30 to 40 cents per DVD to much to pay for piece of mind ?

 

[KK]

Damn, I just bought 100 printable 8x ridata for 36 shipped. Oh well another 100 TYs won't hurt.

 

[slothman]

Originally posted by: MrX8503
Once you have a cd printable printer with these discs you'll never go back to sharpie again.

EDIT: These really ARE cheap for printables.

Also, supermediastore GAURANTEES that they are taiyus.

You shouldn't even be using sharpie period! At least for data you actually care about anyway. Even water-soluble markers can create problems. Check it out here:

sharpie degradation of cd/dvd media

I haven't had time to research a 100% fool proof method, but cursory investigation seems to say if you can write really really small on the clear inner part of the disc with a water-soluble marker it should be ok.

P.S. Paper labels can be a problem as well because in low humidity conditions the adhesive can pull at the recording layer and cause problems.

 

[Slickone]

What printer do most of you use to print on CD/DVDs?

 

[mkygod]

Also many times, greater quality media allows for faster burns. For instance, the Verbatims I have burn at 12x on my NEC 3500 even though the Verbatims are only rated at 8x.

Printers such as the Epson R200/R300 series can print directly on the discs.