Talk to me about toilets

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boomerang

Lifer
Jun 19, 2000
18,890
642
126
You need to know the distance from the wall to the hold down bolts. This is important if you have an older home or if you have an older one piece toilet. You need to make sure you are buying a toilet that will fit the space. Typically this will not be a problem but a simple measurement will ensure that what you bring home will fit. Google toilet rough in dimensions for more info.

Next choice is round or elongated bowl. Elongated is the way to go unless there are clearance issues. Small bathrooms may have tubs close to the toilet, etc. An elongated bowl gives you more room for your junk when seated. Then as was said, normal height or comfort height.

You're going to have a hard time finding a color other than white in your typical home center unless you special order. You will pay a premium for any color other than white too.

Power flush and all that are your choice.
 

mnewsham

Lifer
Oct 2, 2010
14,539
428
136
its the boy

He only poops once every day or two. When he does, its bad.

that's nothing, friend of mine, katie. She takes a dump once a week, when it happens though it's a 30 minute process and you don't go in the bathroom for an hour or two afterwards to let the radioactive dust settle.
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
To the topic at hand:

1. Buy 2 wax rings, that way if you screw up you can continue on and if it goes well you return one.

2. Test the valve first before starting anything. Cheapo water valves have a tendency to not work. I was 1 for 9 in my house and ended up replacing them with higher quality ball valves.

3. Enjoy raging against the old toilet once you are done. Sledge hammers are fun.
 

Bryophyte

Lifer
Apr 25, 2001
13,430
13
81
Replaced both of ours with those ones that can swallow a bucket of golfballs. No problems since then. My kids and spouse were all constantly clogging the toilet before that.
 

rudeguy

Lifer
Dec 27, 2001
47,371
14
61
Replaced both of ours with those ones that can swallow a bucket of golfballs. No problems since then. My kids and spouse were all constantly clogging the toilet before that.

Can you link to the one you bought?

I'm ok spending money on this since it gets used so much. I just don't want to spend 4x what I need to get the job done.
 

rudeguy

Lifer
Dec 27, 2001
47,371
14
61
To the topic at hand:

1. Buy 2 wax rings, that way if you screw up you can continue on and if it goes well you return one.

2. Test the valve first before starting anything. Cheapo water valves have a tendency to not work. I was 1 for 9 in my house and ended up replacing them with higher quality ball valves.

3. Enjoy raging against the old toilet once you are done. Sledge hammers are fun.

what's up man? How's life?

I'll for sure take your advice. Well on everything except #3. I pan on taking this to the country and shooting the shit out of it :awe:
 

BurnItDwn

Lifer
Oct 10, 1999
26,129
1,604
126
It's gross and nasty if the wax seal/ring leaks. Had that happen in my house like 2 or 3 months after moved in. Took an hour or two, but I changed it out successfully, and for the last 7 years, the toilet has not been leaking on top of the washing machine in the basement. (yes, the washing machine is directly below the toilet)
 

cbrsurfr

Golden Member
Jul 15, 2000
1,686
1
81
I just replaced one of mine. My local Menards had "flush" ratings from 1-10 for each toilet. So I just picked up an Eljer elongated level 10 flush with a soft close seat. Came with everything but the water line to install it. Even the little tools to secure the tank to the bowl and the bowl to the floor.
 

highland145

Lifer
Oct 12, 2009
43,563
5,966
136
It's gross and nasty if the wax seal/ring leaks. Had that happen in my house like 2 or 3 months after moved in. Took an hour or two, but I changed it out successfully, and for the last 7 years, the toilet has not been leaking on top of the washing machine in the basement. (yes, the washing machine is directly below the toilet)
Yeah, that would suck.
 
Nov 20, 2009
10,051
2,577
136
It would be funny if Doc (re: Back to the Future) would invent a fusion toilet for energy production. We'd all feel 'green' about our bowel movements.
 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,967
19
81
DUDE, don't upgrade your toilet, simply stop dropping all your handguns in them!
 

Booty

Senior member
Aug 4, 2000
977
0
0
There are mixed thoughts on caulking around the base. Pro--water won't leak underneath. Con-leaking toilet seal will rot out subfloor and you'll never know it's leaking.
.


I don't remember where I saw/read it, but the suggestion I followed was to caulk around most of the bottom, leaving a small break in the caulk toward the back of the toilet where you can't see it. Then you still can detect a leak from under the toilet, but get pretty much all the rest of the benefits of using caulk.
 

Booty

Senior member
Aug 4, 2000
977
0
0
Only issue that I haven't been able to fix in the 10 or so toilets I've replaced was when the closet flange for one was recessed below the floor board. No idea how that happened, but there was no simple fix for it and I ultimately resorted to cutting out the old closet flange and replacing it with a new one. Turned a 1-2 hour job into a 2 day nightmare.

Had the same issue... tried to double up the wax rings and it was good for a year or two then failed. Then somehow stumbled on this...

https://set-rite.com/

It's only been a year since I installed the kit but am pretty confident it'll be fine - the bowl felt way more secure after installing to bring the flange up to/above finished floor level.


Also, in terms of actual brand/models, I have both a newer American Standard (don't remember the model) and a Toto Drake II. Both have been fine, but I prefer the looks of the Toto and it seems to stay cleaner.
 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,967
19
81
I don't remember where I saw/read it, but the suggestion I followed was to caulk around most of the bottom, leaving a small break in the caulk toward the back of the toilet where you can't see it. Then you still can detect a leak from under the toilet, but get pretty much all the rest of the benefits of using caulk.

That's logic, but it won't stop water from running under the toilet.
 

Booty

Senior member
Aug 4, 2000
977
0
0
That's logic, but it won't stop water from running under the toilet.

You mean water spilled onto the floor from getting under the toilet? No, no it won't, I guess... but that'd probably be a lot of water on the floor and I'm guessing it would end up getting under the finished floor in other ways.

Anyway, I'm not saying it's the right way - but back when I researched the topic it was the method I was convinced to use. One of many discussions on the topic...

http://www.terrylove.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-860.html
 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,967
19
81
You mean water spilled onto the floor from getting under the toilet? No, no it won't, I guess... but that'd probably be a lot of water on the floor and I'm guessing it would end up getting under the finished floor in other ways.

Anyway, I'm not saying it's the right way - but back when I researched the topic it was the method I was convinced to use. One of many discussions on the topic...

http://www.terrylove.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-860.html

Most people I know have a totally sealed bathroom floor. Hell many have 'wet baths'.

Not sealing a toilet because you are worried about a wax ring leaking is retarded in the whole scheme of things.
 

rh71

No Lifer
Aug 28, 2001
52,856
1,048
126
Those talking about wax rings, forget it. They don't last and you don't want to be pulling up your toilet every 5 years or so. Our brand new wax rings for brand new toilets in a brand new 2nd floor only lasted 3 years. There was a ring-o-shit residue around the base of the toilet and that's how I knew it was time. Also another reason why you should not caulk the base of your toilet - you'll never know if there's a leak.

Use a sani-seal - they work for the majority of applications. I think I paid $12 each and I'll never have to do that replacement again. Boy was the process a pain in the ass draining all the water, pulling the toilet up and flipping it to clean the old wax off. Someone mentioned it above... foam is better. And if you mess up the toilet placement, you just try again - can't do that with wax.
http://sanisealgasket.com/

As for clogging, I thought the water-efficient new models would suffer from clogging too but not once in the 4 years since we put them in (Kohler Cimmaron and Highline (better)) have they clogged, but the 2 older Kohlers that came with the house downstairs have clogged numerous times. I think the force with flushing is less on the old toilets... the new ones use less water, flush harder (and louder), but they tend to leave skidmarks.
 
Last edited:

Tommy2000GT

Golden Member
Jun 19, 2000
1,832
3
81
I have used Sani Seals and they are awesome. Leak free everytime. I've had a problematic toilet where the wax seal always leak. No more leak with the Sani Seal.
 
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