Yea, it's good quality chain. The steel's softer than I like though. I much prefer Stihl chain. Carlton isn't bad either if you want to save a little money, but surprisingly, I got this Oregon cheaper than I could get Carlton for. My other saws are ⅜" or ⅜"lp, and I have reels of that chain to make as needed.
realtime edit:
You need to match pitch, gauge, and drivelink count. They're kinda standardized, but kinda not too. Similar tools will usually use similar chains, but there can be enough difference that you can get the wrong thing. The relevant dimensions should be marked on the bar, but not always. You might have to look in the manual, or scour the web for details.
edit:
If you can't find the relevant data, try the chain selector here...
Tick the relevant boxes, and it'll show what's available. They have a bar selector also. It's not a complete listing, but they have a lot of saws listed.
edit2:
Oh, and learn to file your chain. That saw I got, I'm 99% sure the guy rocked the chain it came with, bought the Trilink, rocked that, then it sat in a garage. I'd be surprised if the saw had more than two tanks of gas run through it. The spark arrestor was barely even discolored. If you can't, or don't want to learn to do it by hand, try a Pferd guide...
A lot of people like these, and say they work well. It's the same thing Stihl sells, so you could buy from them also, but it'll probably cost more. You have to match the guide to the pitch of chain. If you have more than one pitch, you'd have to buy more than one guide.