The Unofficial ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i Board Thread

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Mr Sheep

Junior Member
Feb 3, 2007
9
0
0
Thanks Core2,

I downloaded the new 0401 BIOS from ASUS last night and flashed the BIOS and did a CMOS reset with the jumpers (taking the battery out and everything) and now the board won' start because the voltages on the board for memory are too low for what I have, so I need to get a weaker RAM stick just for running to BIOS and setting the voltages properly (even though G Skill claims the board should boot fine with the standard settings for the RAM, pffft...) Anyway, but before that I had the BIOS memory timing set to 4-4-4-12 with a voltage setting of 2.174 (or whatever the 2.1??? setting is). But I was still getting the crashes, I also had the memory in the Blakc Slots when this was happening.

Core2 you said: Check you ram timings and voltages. Set them manually to spec and No 1T set it to 2T. If your still having problems switch them to the Black slots only. More info on page 92

What does the No 1T and No 2T mean? I'm confused? Do you also think that it couldn't be that anything is broken? If you can tell me pretty assuradly that it's just something in the BIOS or the software that needs to be fixed I will love you because that means I can fix it soon, an i don't need to return or RMA any parts which would be absolutely awesome.

Thanks for the help, please keep the help coming.

 

ElAguila

Member
Dec 17, 2006
58
0
0
Originally posted by: Core2
Originally posted by: ElAguila
Well the asus probe is not working correctly with vista so it is pretty much out. As far as the speedfan beta what temps are being monitored if none of them are the NB?

There are no sensors to monitor. I added my own ( see page 92 ). The NB with out a fan on it can hit 60c or more. If your going to OC the $10.00 for sensors are worth it

What sensors are being picked up by speedfan? I am not doubting what you are saying but it is reading something and if it isn't what I thought it was then I would like to know what it is reading.

 

DeadMan3000

Member
Jan 24, 2007
89
0
0
Originally posted by: Core2
Originally posted by: DeadMan3000
Well it looks like I won't be attempting any overclocking for a while. At least until I can get an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro on the CPU. The stock heatsink and fan was running hot so I took it off and cleaned it with some rubbing alcohol. The first thing I noticed was that there were a couple of scores along the contact of the heatsink. I probably did this myself when I first put the heatsink on not understanding just how it attached to the motherboard (Always read the instructions peeps). I had been pressing and shoving it and the plastic fasteners on the corners were not turned inwards so it was not clicking in. I did not find that out until too late obviously.

I applied some Arctic Silver 5 very thinly. Reseated the heatsink and booted to the BIOS to see what the temps were. VERY HOT! OK turned off. Took the heatsink off and re-applied the paste a bit thicker and more evenly spread this time. Back on and now I noticed as I put the heatsink back on that it's not a nice firm 'click' onto the board anymore. In fact there is a little bit of play there. My guess is all that messing about with it has made the plastic sprogs on the heatsink a little loose. It just does not sit REALLY firm like it should. To get a good contact with the CPU it needs a really firm grip onto the motherboard.

Back in Windows without Q-Fan on it sits idling at 39-40c on each core. At load using Orthos for 10 minutes it sticks at about 56c. This is with no overclocking and memory running on auto (Obviously wrong timings).

I put Q-Fan back on and set timings to their correct values. Now it's idling at 43-44c respectively. I suspect if I put it under load it will creep to 57c or maybe a little higher depending how much the fan kicks in on it.

Kinda annoyed at myself in screwing up the seating of the heatsink initially. Oh well I will look forward to putting in that Arctic Freezer Pro. I think I can fit it in if I move the swivel heatsink on my video card to one side (I like silence)

EDIT: @ 59c bordering on the evil 60c with Q-Fan on and Orthos running.

Don't try to spread the paste. With AS5 I put a dab about the size of a BB dead center of the chip . With MX-1 do a little more. The weight and pressure of the heatsink will spread it out evenly. Did you wear down the pins or did the holes widen. Read directions thoroughly and test its function before installing


Don't even go there. If the holes have widened I'm in trouble! I hope not.
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: ElAguila
Originally posted by: Core2
Originally posted by: ElAguila
Well the asus probe is not working correctly with vista so it is pretty much out. As far as the speedfan beta what temps are being monitored if none of them are the NB?

There are no sensors to monitor. I added my own ( see page 92 ). The NB with out a fan on it can hit 60c or more. If your going to OC the $10.00 for sensors are worth it

What sensors are being picked up by speedfan? I am not doubting what you are saying but it is reading something and if it isn't what I thought it was then I would like to know what it is reading.

CPU temps and CPU core temps, Motherboard temp, HD temps, thats it. NB and SB are not sensored or are a lot of individual components on the board. Put your fingers on the NB and see how long you can keep it there. Its not 32c
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: DeadMan3000


Don't even go there. If the holes have widened I'm in trouble! I hope not.

Use some bondo or epoxy and fill the holes and re-drill them out. Had to go there just in case you were going to ask later. Let me know how it works I'll add it to the TIPS page
 

DeadMan3000

Member
Jan 24, 2007
89
0
0
Originally posted by: Core2
Originally posted by: DeadMan3000


Don't even go there. If the holes have widened I'm in trouble! I hope not.

Use some bondo or epoxy and fill the holes and re-drill them out. Had to go there just in case you were going to ask later. Let me know how it works I'll add it to the TIPS page

Thanks. I will see how it works out with the AFP7 before I go that route.
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: Mr Sheep
Thanks Core2,

I downloaded the new 0401 BIOS from ASUS last night and flashed the BIOS and did a CMOS reset with the jumpers (taking the battery out and everything) and now the board won' start because the voltages on the board for memory are too low for what I have, so I need to get a weaker RAM stick just for running to BIOS and setting the voltages properly (even though G Skill claims the board should boot fine with the standard settings for the RAM, pffft...) Anyway, but before that I had the BIOS memory timing set to 4-4-4-12 with a voltage setting of 2.174 (or whatever the 2.1??? setting is). But I was still getting the crashes, I also had the memory in the Blakc Slots when this was happening.

Core2 you said: Check you ram timings and voltages. Set them manually to spec and No 1T set it to 2T. If your still having problems switch them to the Black slots only. More info on page 92

What does the No 1T and No 2T mean? I'm confused? Do you also think that it couldn't be that anything is broken? If you can tell me pretty assuradly that it's just something in the BIOS or the software that needs to be fixed I will love you because that means I can fix it soon, an i don't need to return or RMA any parts which would be absolutely awesome.

Thanks for the help, please keep the help coming.

Try booting with one stick in the farthest slot from the cpu. When you look at the timings in the bios the 5th one from the top Command Per Clock (CMD) set that to 2T not 1T. Try your ram in the yellow slots if you had them in the black slots only after you checked that it wasn't 1T. A lot of ram can not run with the Command Per Clock set to 1T and this bios has defauted to set it to 1T a lot. What you are explaining is what exactly happens when it is set to 1T. Also some people have been having trouble with their slots so switching them helps if your are still having problem and running timings to spec and 2T
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: p912043
[
Thanks Core2, I switched from ASUS forum to here because your referal. And I am running 3-4-3-9 1T because I enabled the SLI expert mode. But I tried 4-4-4-12 & 5-5-5-15 2T running higher than 900MHz but still no go. I can work on the PC while running 1650FSB with 9 Multi ~~ 3712MHz BUT will crash SuperPi after few minutes. And I don't understand why I can't pump up the ram to 1066MHz? My C3 spec can either run 400MHz @ 3-4-3-9 or 533MHz @ 5-5-5-15.

Looks like this mobo doesn't like any high freq ram or my bad?! For sure I can't boot when ram higher than 1000MHz & even 950MHz having difficulty also. So strange~~~ Need to find a way to get around that?! May be the memory hole ? Just don't know....

Try switching your slots. Mine would not boot from the black slots at 1066MHz. In the yellow slots I can boot at 1150MHz. This board has a slot problem and as long as your not running 4 sticks I'm sure you'll find a combination that will boot at 1066MHz. Make sure you set the Command Per Clock to 2T and try not enabling the SLI option
 

okc

Junior Member
Feb 3, 2007
19
0
0
Core2 -
PS is a BFG 650w
>> SLI Ready
>> ATX 12V 2.0 Supports the latest Intel and Athlon based platforms requiring 24-pin motherboard and 4-Pin or 8-Pin 12V connectors. With the 20+4-Pin motherboard connector, it is also backward compatible with previous ATX standards.
>> Dual 12V Rails Two independent 12V rails provide your peripherals and critical system components with the most stable power.
>> PCI Express Ready Two PCI Express 6-Pin power connectors ensures that any graphics card or other PCI Express add-in card you buy will have its own dedicated power connector for dependable operation.
>> SATA Connectors Four serial ATA connectors allow you to connect up to four serial ATA devices without needing a special adapter.
>> BFG Silent Control Technology During regular operation, the fan slows down to reduce unnecessary noise.
>> Protection Circuitry Built-in protection circuitry is able to handle common power irregularities such as over-voltage, overload, and short circuits.
>> MTBF A mean time between failure rating of 140,000 hours guarantees a long lasting and reliable source of power.
>> 1 x 650 Watt Power Supply
>> 1 x Power Cable
>> 1 x Install Guide
>> CONNECTORS
1 x 20+4-Pin Motherboard Connector
1 x 4+4-Pin 12V ATX/EPS Connector
2 x 6-Pin PCI Express Connector
6 x 4-Pin Molex Connectors
2 x 4-Pin Floppy Connectors
4 x SATA Connectors

Current readings Bios/Asus Probe:
+12v - 11.78-11.84
+5v - 4.89
+3v - 3.38
Vcore - 1.47

What I am trying to figure out is if this dual rail statement is true. Are both the PCI-E on one rail and the other rail supports the molex/SATA connectors? (BFG has yet to answer me on this)

I don't have any stability problems atm. I'll repost my readings when I get the Coolmaster PS tester later this week.

EDIT
What is EPP in relation to this board? I assume this board does not support EPP memory. Also, HPET and Virtualization Technology, disable?
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: okc

I don't have any stability problems atm. I'll repost my readings when I get the Coolmaster PS tester later this week.

EDIT
What is EPP in relation to this board? I assume this board does not support EPP memory. Also, HPET and Virtualization Technology, disable?

Direct your question to dlxmax. He is the electronic expert. How many amps on the 12v rail. It does support EPP memory and SLI memory. Do a google for the last two its Intel technology
 

acivick

Senior member
Jun 16, 2004
710
0
0
Originally posted by: Mr Sheep
Hey,

I just built my first computer using the P5N-E SLI mobo, and I'm trying to figure out why it is broken. Here is my setup:

eVGA 8800GTX
G Skill 2 x 1 GB @ 800 with 4-4-4-12 timing
Intel 2.4 core 2 duo
ASUS 650i mobo
160 GB Western Digital HDD

Now when I try to install XP Pro the computer either blue screens or crashes and restars itself. The blue screens that come up each time vary and they occur at different points during the installation process. And if it crashes then it flashes some error message for a split second in a windows error box and then shuts down and restarts. Some of the blue screens that I have gotten say I should do a CHKDSK /F or there was another one concerning some process in SP2 that has known errors. But the messages vary and don't occur at the same time during the instal nor are they the same each time.

Now I'm wondering is this a cause of the mother board? Or is something else causing it? I have checked the BIOS and the memory sticks are recognized and good. And the CD drive is a slave to the mobo and the HDD is recognized as well. Would the computer even run if something was wrong with the processor? I ran a disk bootable version of Linux and things seemed to work fine but it would lock up sometimes or crash others, I thought that might be the cruddy programming of the disk bootable version of Linux though.

If anyone can give me tips on what may be causing the problem I would greatly appreciate it. I need to know if my HDD is corrupted, or is my processor funky, or is the mobo just broken? I'm pretty sure it's a hardware issue at this point but I can't figure out which part. Please help!

Thanks!

I had a similar problem when I first installed Windows XP. I have a really old first edition disc (i.e. pre-SP1). It wouldn't detect the right hard disk size and then when I installed Windows, it would blue screen before finishing the configuration. In order to solve the problem, I had to copy all the Windows files to a CDR, slipstream with SP2, and install using that CD to fix the problem.

Not sure if you're having the same problem, as I think it only affects hard disk sizes greater than a certain amount (I think 200GB, but I could be wrong), but it might be worth giving a shot.
 

okc

Junior Member
Feb 3, 2007
19
0
0
Ditto on XP installation. I believe the work around is to F6 install JMicron and nVidia drivers for the SCSI/SATA to work properly. Of course this requires a floppy, of which I had to dig one out of my closet.

Core2 -
PS sticker states 20a on each 12v rail. What I was asking is if people are disabling HPET and VT.
 

acivick

Senior member
Jun 16, 2004
710
0
0
Originally posted by: okc
Current readings Bios/Asus Probe:
+12v - 11.78-11.84
+5v - 4.89
+3v - 3.38
Vcore - 1.47

What I am trying to figure out is if this dual rail statement is true. Are both the PCI-E on one rail and the other rail supports the molex/SATA connectors? (BFG has yet to answer me on this)

I don't have any stability problems atm. I'll repost my readings when I get the Coolmaster PS tester later this week.

EDIT
What is EPP in relation to this board? I assume this board does not support EPP memory. Also, HPET and Virtualization Technology, disable?

Just took a look at my rails and while my 12V varies little between 11.97 and 12.03, my 5V is holding steady at 4.78. I wonder if that's what's affecting my memory performance.

Anyway that dual rail statement is a misnomer. It's not that it actually has 2 rails. What it does is it takes a single 12V starting point and just subdivides it. The theory is that no single component that requires the 12V rail can exceed a certain specification. A good article that goes into more detail can be found HERE.
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: Core2
Originally posted by: p912043
[
Thanks Core2, I switched from ASUS forum to here because your referal. And I am running 3-4-3-9 1T because I enabled the SLI expert mode. But I tried 4-4-4-12 & 5-5-5-15 2T running higher than 900MHz but still no go. I can work on the PC while running 1650FSB with 9 Multi ~~ 3712MHz BUT will crash SuperPi after few minutes. And I don't understand why I can't pump up the ram to 1066MHz? My C3 spec can either run 400MHz @ 3-4-3-9 or 533MHz @ 5-5-5-15.

Looks like this mobo doesn't like any high freq ram or my bad?! For sure I can't boot when ram higher than 1000MHz & even 950MHz having difficulty also. So strange~~~ Need to find a way to get around that?! May be the memory hole ? Just don't know....

Try switching your slots. Mine would not boot from the black slots at 1066MHz. In the yellow slots I can boot at 1150MHz. This board has a slot problem and as long as your not running 4 sticks I'm sure you'll find a combination that will boot at 1066MHz. Make sure you set the Command Per Clock to 2T and try not enabling the SLI option

I should have ask you what ram you have. Based on the timings you set I'd say you have the Corsair PC6400C3's 3-4-3-9. What voltage were you setting? I needed 2.25 at certain times Try upping the voltage and see.
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: okc
Ditto on XP installation. I believe the work around is to F6 install JMicron and nVidia drivers for the SCSI/SATA to work properly. Of course this requires a floppy, of which I had to dig one out of my closet.

Core2 -
PS sticker states 20a on each 12v rail. What I was asking is if people are disabling HPET and VT.

Yes, I disable both. Page 92 lists everything I set in my bios. EPP and SLI are enhanced profiles written to a chip on the ram to help the bios configure optimal performance timings. Sorry, I'm trying to do a bunch of things at the same time
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
acivick
If you had it to do again would you buy the E6600 or would you go with a E6400. I was thinking of buying one to play with. If I do I'm going to have to change my name to Core4
 
Jan 20, 2007
84
0
0
Originally posted by: Core2
acivick
If you had it to do again would you buy the E6600 or would you go with a E6400. I was thinking of buying one to play with. If I do I'm going to have to change my name to Core4

That's a tough call core2. For what I wanted, a future HTPC, i went with the 6600 knowing that it will have more stock umph when it comes to video encoding inside an HTPC. Who knows if that board will be overclockable, so I went 6600. Mine doesn't hit the amazing clocks that some do. I booted and ran superpi at 1600x800, but orthos rebooted it instantly, even at 1.52vcore. I'm afraid to give it more voltage than 1.49 even though under load that ends up being about 1.39-1.41 after the droop. By the way, the auto setting in the bios was good to about 3.43 then i started getting errors in orthos.

So for straight overclocking and performance per dollar, i'd save the 100 bucks and go/stick with the 6400. Unless of course you've got the dough and want to play with one.
 

meesterlars

Junior Member
Jan 28, 2007
13
0
0
Well, my hard drives have finally arrived and I'm good to go!

I've had a few stability issues running at 1696/800. Vcore seems the problem. I had trouble booting - would just hand at the detecting IDE devices stage. Anyhoo, I've now left the vcore set to auto and bumped the NB up to 1.5. As a result, my CPU goes up to around 1.46V and 50°, but I can now post, boot and run a stability test at 1800/800.

Oh yes, 1T seemed to be a problem too, though if my stability test runs through the evening I may attempt 1T again.
 

ElAguila

Member
Dec 17, 2006
58
0
0
Thanks for the info on the sensors. As far as that error I am getting in the event log, I think it may be related to the 0401 bios. That is the only thing I changed recently. I am going to flash back to 0307 and see what happens.
 

dakata24

Diamond Member
Aug 7, 2000
6,366
0
76
i just got this motherboard from zzf. i'm going to attempt a mild overclock with a E6600. any need to replace the stock northbridge chipset heatsink? or should i just add some premium AS5 or zalman thermal grease?

i was planning on adding zalman chipset heatsink to the southbridge since once is absent.

thanks
 

DeadMan3000

Member
Jan 24, 2007
89
0
0
Can someone with a P5N-E SLI and E6600 @ stock values with original HSF running Speedfan beta 8 paste a copy of their .ini file (Or relevant settings). I am still unable to get into the 'Configure' button. I'd like to see what happens if I replace the .ini with one that is working. I.E. will it help my fan speed to autospeed OK.

I don't need any other settings tweaked.

 

dlxmax

Member
Dec 16, 2006
61
0
0
Originally posted by: Core2 in response to SaltBoy
Your bios screen shot the 12volts and 5volts are on the low side
Hogwash! That's what the Asus voltmeters are. My bios repots my +5v rail at 4.83v, but handheld meter shows it at 5.05v. Bios also reports my 12v at 11.96v, but I metered 12.03v going into the motherboard. My bios also reports my 3.3v voltage as 3.20v, but I'm sure that's wrong. And it reports my moded Vcore at 1.31v--but it's 1.4v.

So add to page 92 that the Asus bios "Hardware Monitor" is rubbish.

...also, thanks for adding those 3DMark scores to your ram testing. Clearly the best choice is to set the lowest latency and then try to get a higher clock at that setting... Like I did in my .sig below.

 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: Genuine Imitation
Originally posted by: Core2
acivick
If you had it to do again would you buy the E6600 or would you go with a E6400. I was thinking of buying one to play with. If I do I'm going to have to change my name to Core4

That's a tough call core2. For what I wanted, a future HTPC, i went with the 6600 knowing that it will have more stock umph when it comes to video encoding inside an HTPC. Who knows if that board will be overclockable, so I went 6600. Mine doesn't hit the amazing clocks that some do. I booted and ran superpi at 1600x800, but orthos rebooted it instantly, even at 1.52vcore. I'm afraid to give it more voltage than 1.49 even though under load that ends up being about 1.39-1.41 after the droop. By the way, the auto setting in the bios was good to about 3.43 then i started getting errors in orthos.

So for straight overclocking and performance per dollar, i'd save the 100 bucks and go/stick with the 6400. Unless of course you've got the dough and want to play with one.

Thanks Genuine Imitation,
Thats exactly what I wanted to know. I just wanted to play with it. I'm probably better off waiting and buying a Quad. I already have two E6400 and one E6300. I just wanted figured out a way to OC that thing. More of a challenge than anything else.
 

okc

Junior Member
Feb 3, 2007
19
0
0
Originally posted by: dakata24
i just got this motherboard from zzf. i'm going to attempt a mild overclock with a E6600. any need to replace the stock northbridge chipset heatsink? or should i just add some premium AS5 or zalman thermal grease?

i was planning on adding zalman chipset heatsink to the southbridge since once is absent.

thanks

I only added a 20mm. Unless you plan on doing extreme voltage increases on the NB, a 20-40mm fan should suffice with the stock heatsink. I have a Zalman ZM on my SB. Check out post #92 for oc'ing information.
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: dlxmax
Originally posted by: Core2 in response to SaltBoy
Your bios screen shot the 12volts and 5volts are on the low side
Hogwash! That's what the Asus voltmeters are. My bios repots my +5v rail at 4.83v, but handheld meter shows it at 5.05v. Bios also reports my 12v at 11.96v, but I metered 12.03v going into the motherboard. My bios also reports my 3.3v voltage as 3.20v, but I'm sure that's wrong. And it reports my moded Vcore at 1.31v--but it's 1.4v.

So add to page 92 that the Asus bios "Hardware Monitor" is rubbish.

...also, thanks for adding those 3DMark scores to your ram testing. Clearly the best choice is to set the lowest latency and then try to get a higher clock at that setting... Like I did in my .sig below.

You da man dlxmax. Hey, thanks for TVU Player. Excellent!!! Now I can watch three TV's and still compute. Hope they show baseball on their line up that be the bomb. Can you get your ram to run 1T thats were the performance kicks in or real low latency like you have. That Super Talent DDR2/800 seems to be really good ram

 
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