The Unofficial Gigabyte GA-P35C-DS3R P35 Board Thread

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darkenedsoul

Member
Oct 16, 2007
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I do not know! The manual doesn't say anything about it being hot-swappable. Says to turn off power to external enclosure prior to connecting the SATA cable.
 

barbaroja9

Member
Jun 17, 2003
50
0
66
Originally posted by: bonanza
Is the eSATA from the rear-bracket hot-swappable ?

I am 99% sure it is. Anyway, what would be an external sata connector utility if it is not hot swapppable?
 

biltong

Member
Oct 17, 2007
40
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0
Originally posted by: Rob1556
Hi

Just about to buy this board and the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro

I notice that a couple on here have these two, any problems with this hs hitting the nb hs ?

If so is how did you get round this ?

Cheers


You should be alright. I've got the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro and I was a bit worried
that when I pressed the mounting pins home, the bottom of the Freezer 7 Pro would hit the NB heatsink, but it just clears it...maybe 1 or 2 mm.

You need to be careful though because the 1st board I got, I managed to knock the NB heatsink off. Its held on by a couple of plastic mounting pins and some sort of weak thermal glue....The problem with the NB heatsink is its too easy to forget its not the best mounting mechanism and use the heatsink as a sort of handle when manouvering the board into position..... If you then try and remount it with normal thermal paste e.g. AS5, you'll find its no longer very stable.
 

biltong

Member
Oct 17, 2007
40
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0
Originally posted by: barbaroja9
biltong, are your crucial ballistixs hot to the touch?


No, not really. I'd say they're slightly warm. And I'm now running with +0.3V which equates to 2.26V according to speedfan (it wasn't stable with +0.2V). I've updated my signature.

mrfatboy discovered that the board seems to vervolt the RAM so you end up with something like:

+0.0 --- 2.0V
+0.1 --- 2.0V
+0.2 --- 2.13V
+0.3 --- 2.26V
+0.4 --- 2.37V

although apparently Gigabyte are now saying it depends what your RAM is rated at. So if you have RAM rated at 1.8V, you might get different readings.

Originally, I did have the RAM set at +0.4V and they were hot to the touch (but not so hot you couldn't keep your fingers on them). Then after reading about the board overvolting the RAM, I changed this to +0.2V, but eventually found that the RAM wasn't quite stable (after muliple runs of Orthos). Now at +0.3V, it is stable (and not too hot).

I've got the FSB running at 444Mhz with a 2.4 mem multiplier which gives me 3.552GHz on the CPU and 1066MHz on the RAM (which is what the RAM is rated at with 2.2V). I had to up the Vcore of the CPU to 1.48125V which is a little high compared to what everyone else seems to need, but due to the VDroop, this seems to equate to 1.408V under load (according to CPU-Z)

Its not very warm here at the moment, so that probably helps !





 

biltong

Member
Oct 17, 2007
40
0
0
I was running Orthos small FTT when I did the finger test on the RAM. Later on, I'll try something memory intensive like MemTest86+ and see if they get any hotter !
 

barbaroja9

Member
Jun 17, 2003
50
0
66
Thanks for that input.

Well, I am pretty sure one of my modules died because of the heat. They are factory rated at 1066 speeds. I do not have a way of testing the real heat in the memory, but I can tell you its hotter than the video card, and that is a gigabyte passive 7600gs, wich is 60ºC idle according to the nvidia utility.

I am running (1 module cause the other on died) at +0.3 volts now...

Lokking forward to your results...
 

biltong

Member
Oct 17, 2007
40
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0
barbaroja9, Just checked the temperature with MemTest86+ running. Definitely a lot warmer than it was running Orthos small FTT. I'd say pleasantly warm, bodering on hot, but doesn't seem excessive.

Also tried it with the voltage set to +0.4. Then, its definitely hot. I can still keep my fingers on the memory modules, but it feels pretty hot.

Unfortunately, I don't have a temperature probe and I'm not sure if there's any utility that shows the RAM temperature, so I can't be more accurate.

Was your RAM running with +0.4V when it failed ? Having felt how hot the modules are with +0.4V, I wouldn't like to run with that setting for too long. When I first built the PC, I was running at +0.4V for 3 or 4 days, but probably not doing memory intensive tasks........
 

barbaroja9

Member
Jun 17, 2003
50
0
66
Yes, they were at +0.4 volts when started failing. Anyway, this memory is supposed to take tweaking and overclock, I mean, it´s not cheap memory, it should not be an issue having it a little overvoltaged. I tested today in a friends computer, it ran fine at 533 mhz 4-4-4-12 and since the board did not have any voltage options I guess it was running at 1.8 volts. The memory was as cool as my DDR corsairs (just slightly warm), and when I tried to put it to run at 667 mhz 5-5-5-15, it would not boot. So I guess a minimum of 2 volts is required to have this memory running at 667 mhz speeds. Now I have the remaining module at +0.2volts until my corsairs with heatspreaders arrive. Speedfan reads this as Vcore2, right? It is at 2.13 volts stable. Someone at crucial live help told me that having the memory undervoltaged was a damaging factor to them. As overvoltaged. So as this board has no exact value, its really a luck shot to have them right on the spot voltage.

I will tell you whats up when I get the corsairs.

By the way, I am getting strange readings about voltages in speedfan.

Vcore1: 1.30V
Vcore2: 2.13V (memory, I guess?)
+3.3V: 3.3V
+5V: 5V
+12V: (variable) between .08 and 1.6 last time I checked.

-12V: -16.97V
-5V: -6.82V (variable too) But remains very close to 6.
+5V: 5.16V
VBat: 3.23V

My CPU cooler is a Schythe Ninja Plus revB, with a nexus fan, controlled by board via voltage (not PWM). The fan is almost always stopped, since my cpu is max at 40ºC load. This fan starts to run minimum at 6 to 7 volts.

HEEEEEELPPP ....... biltonggggggg ........ hahaha
 

biltong

Member
Oct 17, 2007
40
0
0
barbaroja9, seems odd that you can get the memory to run at all if its damaged. What did you use to measure the frequency when running in your friends computer ? Have you got CPU-Z ? If you use that to check the frequency and then double the value it gives you, you should get the correct value.
A useful double-check to make sure the memory is actually running at what you think you've set it to. e.g. there's been a few times when I was playing when I thought I'd set the motherboard up for one frequency and CPU-Z said it was running at a different frequency, so now I always double-check with CPU-Z.

For speedfan, it doesn't seem to read all the voltages correctly. Actually, I don't think some of those voltage supplies are actually used by modern motherboards e.g. -5V, -12V ? :

http://www.pcguide.com/ref/pow...up/funcVoltages-c.html

which explains the crap readings. I think the voltages you can rely on are Vcore1, Vcore2 (memory), +3.3V, +5V. I get similar readings to you. I think mrfatboy actually measured the memory voltages and they matched up pretty well with the Vcore2 voltages shown by Speedfan. The +12V reading is definitely wrong though !!

Also, speedfan under-reads the Core1 and Core2 temperatures by 15C for some CPUs e.g. E6750 which have a TJunction of 100C rather than 85C (or maybe thats the other way round . If you google it, you'll find an explanation somewhere......You need to run Core Temp 0.95.4 to be sure you're getting the correct Core Temp readings. Or I think the latest Beta version of speedfan now reads the correct temperatures. Have a look on the speedfan web-site.

What CPU do you have ? 40C seems very low for a load temperature, especially if the fan is not running, although I guess your heatsink is designed for fanless operation. Even so, I'm wondering if this is really 55C ? For example, with my CPU running at 3.552GHz, running Orthos, my temps are round about 56C with the fan running ! and the room temp is pretty low at the moment. Even 55C isn't an excessive temperature, so I wouldn't be too concerned. I know some fans start at low voltages easier than others, so you could try another fan if you want to lower the temps slightly.....I'm just using the one that came with my cooler and that runs fine with the board set to voltage control, even at idle where it runs pretty slow, maybe 500/600 rpm.

Anyway, hopefully you have better luck with the Corsairs !!
 

barbaroja9

Member
Jun 17, 2003
50
0
66
Thanks for the input, biltong. I checked your link. Pretty interesting. I guess if the -12V readings were right, the PC would not work.

When I tried the memory in my friends computer, the mainboard was who reported the frecuency. I am pretty sure it could only be 533 because when I tried to go for 667 it would not boot. Also there were only two options, 533 or 667 mhz.

Yes its strange about the memory damage. Because the module I am working with right now, was damaged and I took it out the computer. Then the remaining one failed, and I switched to the other one, and it worked!!! Strange... but thank god.

I am sorry about my readings, they were wrong. I ran orthos (both CPU tests) and checked the temps in coretemp. It reads 53 and 51ºC for the cpu cores with the fan off (after 10 minutes of work). Anyway, speedfan is not wrong, it reads 51ºC for both cores. BUT, the fan did not turn on automatically, do you think this is not a good thing? Whats the warning CPU temp for a E6600 and my coming Q6600?

When I helped my fan start with the finger, the temps lowered to 50 and 47 ºC in coretemp. Speedfan reported 47 for both cores. The fan is running at 700 RPM according to speedfan.

I saw the Vcore 1 reading going to 1.28V when orthos was running. Is this normal?

Thanks biltong. Please have in mind that my CPU is not overclocked. (E6600)




 

biltong

Member
Oct 17, 2007
40
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0
I think your temperature readings are fine. From what I've read, anything under 60C is fine. Some people reckon you can go higher than this without worrying, but I think so long as you're below 60C under load, you should be fine. Looks like you don't need to worry about the fan, although if you start overclocking the CPU and your temps rise significantly, you might want to try another fan.

Someone might be able to recommend a fan that will start at low voltages ???

The VCore reading will be lower than you specify in BIOS. This is called Vdroop. At idle, the Vdroop will be less than it is under load. For example, on my system, I have the Vcore set to 1.48125V in the BIOS. At idle, CPU-Z shows that voltage as 1.440V and under load, it drops to 1.424V.

There are mods you can do that reduce or eliminate Vdroop, but you'd have to be a braver man than me. I don't think its a big issue. If you're not overclocking, just let the BIOS set the Vcore. If you are overclocking, you'll be increasing the setting in the BIOS until your system is stable, although obviously you have to be careful you don't go too high !


 

barbaroja9

Member
Jun 17, 2003
50
0
66
Hm that seems like a relief for me.

About the fan, I am using it that way because I use this room as both monitoring and recording room in my personal studio (audio). Thats why I chose a silent video card and silent fans. Anyway, I control my fans via a sunbeam rheobus, so If fans are loud for a particular situation, I just turn them down while I need them silent. I know they start at 6 volts cause that is the voltage the sunbeam rheobus changes led colors from red to blue, and is when I see the schythe fan start runnning.

I read somewhere that the Q6600 is a heat beast, when mine arrives, I guess that would be the fire-test for this fan and config. If I see high temps, then I would plug the CPU fan to the rheobus and feed it with a constant voltage, so I see it always spinning.

I am anxious for the arrival of the Q6600 and the 4GB of corsairs. I just hope my audio programs to get a significant improvement in performance, since working with 1GB for big audio projects suckss big time. 2GB was not always enough.

Have you heard of damaged memory because of undervoltaging?

 

biltong

Member
Oct 17, 2007
40
0
0
Ah, OK......I thought you were controlling the fan via the motherboard and were having a problem with the fan starting up.

Yes, I think the Q6600 will be a different beast heatwise, so be interesting to see what temps you get with that. I suspect you'll need that fan

I've never heard of damaged memory through under-volting.....I would have thought it unlikely, especially as the ballistix are rated from 1.8V to 2.2V (depending on what timings you're using). CPU-Z shows the different settings supported at 1.8V and 2.2V, under SPD tab. Since the Gigabyte seems to set an actual minimum of 2.0V (at least with the ballistix), I would have thought it unlikely that undervolting has damaged them. But I'm no expert on memory.........
 

barbaroja9

Member
Jun 17, 2003
50
0
66
I will tell you as soon as I get my hands on the Q6600.

I have read intensively about having the MEM and CPU running 1:1 ratio, but I have not found a deep explanation of the particular advantages and disadvantages of running at no standard ratios, like 2.x or 3.x. Do you know hot this affects performance? I have read somewhere people saying that running it at non 1:1 ratio did not affect performances. Others say it does

Any light on this subject?
 

darkenedsoul

Member
Oct 16, 2007
128
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0
With CPU voltage at 1.4625, Memory SPD at 2.0, FSB at 412mhz (G)MCH at +0.1v, DDR2/3 voltage at +0.2 volts (2.11 in speedfan) and memory (DDR2 1066 Dominator 4x1024Gb) I am stable at 3.7xxGhz x9 multiplier. I have tried upping CPU voltage 1-2 notches and crank FSB to 425 and Orthos fails, it fails at 418 and 415 I believe as well (I know 418 fails). I pushed up FSB voltage by 0.1v, (G)MCH +0.2v and FSB at 425 and Orthos fails. Even with CPU voltage up 2 notches from above setting it still fails. Memory timing is at 4-4-4-12 (I tried upping to 5-5-5-15 with some of the above changes and it still fails within about 30-40 seconds).

I don't want to get the maximum possible speed here, I'm pretty happy with it where it is and think it's fairly respectable for the 3.0Ghz E6850 CPU. I was just hoping to maybe get it to 3.8Ghz and leave it at that. But as I said I'm happy at 3.7Ghz. I haven't mucked with video card just yet. But I just bumped it to 634Mhz and I'll see if it sticks via nTune.
 

biltong

Member
Oct 17, 2007
40
0
0
Originally posted by: barbaroja9
I will tell you as soon as I get my hands on the Q6600.

I have read intensively about having the MEM and CPU running 1:1 ratio, but I have not found a deep explanation of the particular advantages and disadvantages of running at no standard ratios, like 2.x or 3.x. Do you know hot this affects performance? I have read somewhere people saying that running it at non 1:1 ratio did not affect performances. Others say it does

Any light on this subject?

Running at a lower memory multiplier will allow you to specifiy tighter memory timings e.g. 4-4-4-12 as opposed to 5-5-5-15.

I ran a few tests whilst Folding with the FSB set to 440MHz, and didn't see a noticeable difference between running with a 2.0 multiplier (1:1) - 880Mhz 4-4-4-12 timings and running with a 2.4 multiplier - 1056MHz 5-5-5-15 timings. It would probably make a difference with memory intensive applications. You could probably get an idea by running MemTest86+ and timing how long it takes to cycle through all the tests with different settings. For a given FSB, my money would be on the 2.4 multiplier with 5-5-5-15 timings being faster than the 2.0 multiplier with 4-4-4-12 timings, but I could be wrong

I'm not sure if there's any other disadvantages to running non 1:1 ratios ?
 

kongstad

Junior Member
Oct 28, 2007
1
0
0
I helped two of my friends assemble their new rigs just a few days ago. One had the ds3 and the other the ds3r. Neither of the boards would install the sounddriver properly, not even with the latest chipset drivers. It turned out to be a windows issue. With xp home (no serviecepack) it would not work, but with xp home sp2, it was working properly. If you don't have the sp2 edition, don't try to install the drivers and then get the sp2, it will not work. But if you install only lan drivers, update windows to sp2 and then install the drivers, it should solve the problem.
 

Philbee

Junior Member
Nov 12, 2007
6
0
0
Hey guys, sorry to bump an old thread but its relative and will hopefully help others

Specs in sig.
Ive had this board for a while and its been real solid, best board Ive had.
Its benched well at 3.6GHz (400 x 9) and ran everyday at 3.2GHz. This was with 2GB of Corsair XMS2 PC6400 running 1:1 @ 400 x 8
Im a gamer and have been noticing slowdowns loading/unloading games, as moving to 2GB improved my BF2 experience way back when, I thought moving to 4GB would do the same. Since I run Vista64 this seems logical.

Anyhoo, it simply refuses to co-operate with me
After some tracing and troubleshooting I have ended up with isolating one thing.
Put simply, I can set everything to what I know is safe/not required, but as soon as I change HOST CLOCK CONTROL from disabled to enabled, it runs the memory check and reboots to disabled etc.
Which kinda sucks when I want to OC!

Running now at 2.4GHz is fine, testing shows all clear.
Dimm is 2.1v
4-4-4-12 or 5-5-5-18
All sticks same manufacture date.
Bios F6

All tweaking aside, the fact I cant enable OC is a mystery, I saw early on in the thread that there may be an issue with the DDR2/DDR3 slots.

Can anyone verify this as I have seen a few peeps running 4GB DDR OC.

Cheers!
 

mrfatboy

Senior member
Sep 3, 2006
841
0
76
Originally posted by: Philbee
Hey guys, sorry to bump an old thread but its relative and will hopefully help others

Specs in sig.
Ive had this board for a while and its been real solid, best board Ive had.
Its benched well at 3.6GHz (400 x 9) and ran everyday at 3.2GHz. This was with 2GB of Corsair XMS2 PC6400 running 1:1 @ 400 x 8
Im a gamer and have been noticing slowdowns loading/unloading games, as moving to 2GB improved my BF2 experience way back when, I thought moving to 4GB would do the same. Since I run Vista64 this seems logical.

Anyhoo, it simply refuses to co-operate with me
After some tracing and troubleshooting I have ended up with isolating one thing.
Put simply, I can set everything to what I know is safe/not required, but as soon as I change HOST CLOCK CONTROL from disabled to enabled, it runs the memory check and reboots to disabled etc.
Which kinda sucks when I want to OC!

Running now at 2.4GHz is fine, testing shows all clear.
Dimm is 2.1v
4-4-4-12 or 5-5-5-18
All sticks same manufacture date.
Bios F6

All tweaking aside, the fact I cant enable OC is a mystery, I saw early on in the thread that there may be an issue with the DDR2/DDR3 slots.

Can anyone verify this as I have seen a few peeps running 4GB DDR OC.

Cheers!


If I understand your question correctly you are not getting your OC anymore after you put in an addition 2gigs (4 total) of ram? If so, 4 gigs are harder to OC. I would try upping your (g)mch +.1v and try again. Also, did you know this board overvolts the ram? If your Corsair ram requires 2.1v to run properly you need to set the ddr2/ddr3 overvoltage to +.2v. This will get you 2.12v.

Also, were you ever able to get your OC with the F6 bios before? What bios were you running when you got your OC?

When did

 

Philbee

Junior Member
Nov 12, 2007
6
0
0
Originally posted by: mrfatboy

If I understand your question correctly you are not getting your OC anymore after you put in an addition 2gigs (4 total) of ram? If so, 4 gigs are harder to OC. I would try upping your (g)mch +.1v and try again. Also, did you know this board overvolts the ram? If your Corsair ram requires 2.1v to run properly you need to set the ddr2/ddr3 overvoltage to +.2v. This will get you 2.12v.

Also, were you ever able to get your OC with the F6 bios before? What bios were you running when you got your OC?

Yes, as soon as I select enabled in the clock control, then without changing the FSB, wont get to HHD check and it reboots/reverts.
I was just reading about (g)mch +.1v when you replied, I didnt have to do this before but reading about the extra load it makes sence which I'll try, what doesnt make sence is moving from disable to enable without changing FSB will bork the boot.

It is running +.2v and I had F4 bios before today as I thought a needed update might be why its wigging out. Bonus is DDR timings are logically viewable and the spooky option 1/option 2 is gone...hurrah
 

Philbee

Junior Member
Nov 12, 2007
6
0
0
Quick fiddle.

Set MCH to +.1v
Set speed to 533 (1:1)
Set timing to 5-5-5-18

boots ok.
restart

select enable on clock control, dont adjust, reboot = fail.
 

mrfatboy

Senior member
Sep 3, 2006
841
0
76
Originally posted by: Philbee
Quick fiddle.

Set MCH to +.1v
Set speed to 533 (1:1)
Set timing to 5-5-5-18

boots ok.
restart

select enable on clock control, dont adjust, reboot = fail.


What speed rating is your memory? Can you take a picture of your
M.I.T settings in your bios for us? or write down all the settings. You might have something else set incorrectly that is causing the problem. I need to what you have.
 
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