The Wink home automation thread

[mrose17]

got it, many thanks!

 

[trunzoc]

Do you love Wink?
Are you a developer familiar with JS, jQuery and other web coding skills?
Do you wish there was a web based control panel for Wink?

Look no further: https://github.com/davidgruhin/WinkPost

I am looking for a couple of devs to help get this really rocking.

This is a fork of William Beam's original project https://plus.google.com/115743072068151821173/posts

I have added in Bootstrap to make it responsive and designed a dashboard interface.

I am looking for a backend dev to work on the API portion to break the devices out by type in to different tables (currently one big table). Add access to Groups and Shortcuts via API. List robots, and activity as well.

Basically extend the current project to include every possible aspect of the Current Wink API: http://docs.wink.apiary.io/

I will continue to work on the Frontend UI aspects. If you are interested hop on the Github project.

Thanks,
David

David, if you are familiar enough with Tasker to dig into the "Wink Get Devices" task, there is javascript in there that gets individual devices, groups, and shortcuts.

Right now it stores it as a bar "|" delimited string, but it should be pretty easy to just add rows to a datatable instead of amending a string.

 

[plasticlung]

Is there a way to add a generic Zigbee product to wink? I would like to add the Leaksmart (getleaksmart.com) water valve. Both smartthings and iris support the valve. Thanks

For everyone's benefit Leaksmart works with the generic zigbee light switch.

 

[daudet419]

I'm new here.

I came to look for an answer to my question, which I will ask, but figured I'd post a project I built.

I'm not sure how many folks are using Tasker on an Android device, but if you are, I wrote a project to Voice Control the Wink. Yes, this is selfish promotion

goo . gl / 2WMND9 (Take the spaces out of that to make it work)

Now the question I came, hoping to get answered...

I have a ton of Insteon stuff in my house. I've been building the system for close to a decade. I picked up the Wink Hub during the $.99 promo at Home Depot and I've been loving it.

At this point I only have a Leviton outlet, a Lutron Caseta dimmer, and a Schlage.
After several month using the hub, I am satisfied I like it enough to start replacing the majority of my basic Insteon stuff. One of the things I'm stuck on is virtual 3-way circuits. I know you can buy the Linear WT500Z/WS15Z and a WT00Z to make it 3-way. I'm just curious if anyone has gotten this setup to work with the Wink?

I've seen very few things that said it doesn't work, but none that absolutely say it does.

Has anyone here tried it?

Also, does anyone know if the WR00Z will control a GE 12722/12724?

Thanks for the info, and check out my Voice Controlled Wink!

Welcome on board Trunzoc,

regarding Linear WT500Z/WS15Z I am using the dimmer for kitchen on my production Hub and the non dimmer on my Demo Hub.
They both work fine BUT the status is not updating on Wink App.
Right now the kitchen light are on but looking at my Wink app it show it as Off. I just tap once and the status get ON. If I shut the light off with the wall switch it will not toggle Off on the App.
Every regular Zwave are like this. I have GE plugin module and GE in-wall switch and the status is not updating either but they work.


If I move my Linear and GE to my Aeon Lab Zwave Key with OSA or Domoticz software status is working OK.

Status for Zwave on Wink works only if they are Zwave+

I am just starting with Tasker, so far I got the Wink project imported and Wink get devices is passing OK but I am stuck after.
Will get back to you in another tread either here or on G+

Daniel

 

[enyce9]

Does anyone have any of the ge 45637 installed with wink? I just purchased 4 from Lowes, and was wondering if the on off status is correct.

 

[blampen]

Does anyone have any of the ge 45637 installed with wink? I just purchased 4 from Lowes, and was wondering if the on off status is correct.

As of right now the lutrons are the only switches with correct status polling.

 

[BillinGlendale]

I started with a Moto 360 but returned it for absolutely horrid battery life. Got a G Watch R instead.

As I think I mentioned, I have the Asus Zen Watch. I've always preferred square(or rectangular) watches so that worked out well. I'm happy with the battery life, last night I plugged it in and it still had 48%. Using the watch to give voice commands is still a lot of fun even after three weeks.

 

[twomonsters]

So wink support updated my hub to .56, but my batteries on my trippers are still reporting low. Should I contact support again to see if I can get replacements?

How much of a pain is it to replace myself?

 

[dgruhin]

Wink App for iOS updated to 2.7.0.2 this morning.

Nothing updated regarding better robot design and logic.

Added support for Pella Hub and Sensors.

There was also an update to the Wink Relay.

 

[DnyLhy]

Hey Mike! I do have 1 setup with a Lutron Caseta/Pico installed in the house. Thing is I have a couple situations where I really don't need/want a dimmer. I guess I can just go that route. It's $60 for the Lutron, and slightly more for a Linear pair. So guess I might as well stick with the Lutron. My main concern is compatibility. Wink works with the Caseta stuff, but if I ever decide to go with a more robust controller like a Vera, I don't think I'd be able to control the Lutron as opposed to the Linear or GE.

A couple of the places i want to replace are wired for a real 3-way, so I could a GE setup for that, but a few more are virtual. Meaning that I have an Insteon switch on the load side, and another Insteon switch somewhere else without having the traveler wire. The Insteons are linked to each other so act as a 3-way without the need to run a 3-conductor wire.





The WR00Z was a typo. Shoulda been WT00Z.

I like the option because I can create a 3-way where there currently isn't a traveler wire installed. I know the WT500Z and the WT00Z work together, buy you need a controller that can issue "Association" commands. I'm not sure if the Wink can or not, so trying to find someone that has actually done it.

I've also read that most Z-Wave switches can been controlled from a motion sensor, but that not all can be controlled by another switch. That's what I was trying to find out about the GEs.

What's your username over in the G+ thread I have going?






Sorry about the Fletchb. I had some personal stuff throwing me off over the weekend and was a bit more "Diva" than I usually am. Come on back. Shoot me a Hangout through G+ and we'll get your stuff working.



I didn;t realize I had a following on another forum. hehe. EGOBOOST!

First regarding Tasker. I too have been trying to get Tasker running on an Android Tablet. I have the project loaded and I believe it is authorizing with the hub. I plan to keep working with the Google+ post on voice control. Voice control would be fun but I mainly want to set up remotes in Wink that trigger on a tripper, motion sensor or Lutron switch, then turn on lights for a fixed period of time. Is there another Wink project that does that ? Does the one I have running provide the framework for setting up timers?
Regarding 3-ways, I bought a GE Z Wave set from Lowes for my basement steps and a Lutron dimmer with remote for the Porch light. I couldn't get the GE working in the basement because the hot wire came from the light fixture, not the power panel. The GE requires a neutral at the main switch and they didn't bring one down from the fixture. Wound up using the Lutron there and the GE at the porch. Both paired and work fine.

 

[Delfian]

I have been reading this forum for a couple months now, thank you to all the posters for the information about Wink.
I have had the Schlage touchscreen deadbolt and Wink hub since Dec '14 and though disappointed that Wink will not report battery status or user code usage am overall satisfied with how the system works.
During a recent remodel my wife decided she wanted an additional light switch to turn a current 3 way in to a 4 way, there are no traveler wires running to the location for the new switch. I also wanted to add dimming capability to the circuit. After hours of research online I decided on the Linear WD500Z + WT00Z. They function much like a standard light switch (up turns on, down turns off) and I like that the dimming is on the rocker part of the switch not a separate lever, knob, or button. I added the first WD500Z and by great luck installed it on the Wink network. Life was good, everything worked exactly like I expected.
Now I have been trying to include the remote WT00Z on the network and get it to control the original WD500Z off and on for about 2 months now with no success. I have bought an Aeon Labs Minimote, reading somewhere that was required.
I have removed the Wink hub and tried to reinstall everything and can install the Schlage deadbolt, but that will not work through wink anymore either. It will install and uninstall, but will not function.
I also have had no success Getting any response from the Linear WT00Z remote/switch.
Does anyone have any advice or help they can please lend?

Thank you

 

[PAPutzback]

My current setup consists of the Wink hub.
I originally started looking at automation because my 3 outdoor lights are triggered by a builder installed photo sensor that is on the shady side of the house. So they turn on too early and stay on long after the sun rises. Those work great and the wife was impressed.

My new project is to setup both of the children's bedrooms with a dimmer switch to control the lighting in the room and to also be able to turn the light off and on instead of trying to yell so loud they can hear me over their xbox headsets. The current panel has tow gangs, one for the light, the other for an outlet in the room. I really don't want to mess with the power switch other than making sure the new switch matches the color and style. But for the light switch I want to have a switch that is capable of letting me know what state it is in, on, off or otherwise. And from what I have ready in the forums that seems to be an issue.

Any thoughts? Are the Lutron Caseta switches the best? http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-6WCL...pr_product_top

But I see one post for that switch that says it hums, another post says it requires a Caseta hub, and another that says you will have to buy special gang box.

Can someone recommend a pair of switches that match color and style (one swtich WINK controllable, the other can be a dumb switch), will work with the standard two gang box.

And hopefully if I forget a wall plate or something I can pick that up at Home Depot, Lowes or Mendards.

 

[bigverm24]

ok rather than try it myself and fail multiple times....hoping for some tips on here. Just got the Leviton DZS with matching Vizia remote (LED) for a 3 way setup. The existing wiring is confusing me greatly...I could really use some assistance if anyone has time. Pic of existing wire on both switches is attached.

I assume the remote goes on the right side (pic) and I just use the neutral (white) and the black (which goes to black screw on existing switch)...?

The main switch is asking me for 4 wires and a ground, but there are only currently 3 and a ground hooked to existing switch. So I need to identify line hot, traveler 1, traveler 2, and neutral in the left side (pic)...no idea how to do this.

of course it won't let me attach a pic yet...help!

 

[Kaido]

Added support for Pella Hub and Sensors.

Excellent! I did a writeup here:

http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost.php?p=37193022&postcount=279

I've been waiting for Pella to come out with a control system for their window treatments, so this is great news! My goal is to have a transparent blind inbetween the glass, and then a roomside blind for blocking the light. I have a projector & it would be awesome to have the regular shades down during the day so it doesn't get so bright, but then pop down the light-blocking shades to watch a movie :thumbsup:

 

[Kaido]

I have had the Schlage touchscreen deadbolt and Wink hub since Dec '14 and though disappointed that Wink will not report battery status or user code usage am overall satisfied with how the system works.

I agree, it would be really nice to get battery status & also set user codes remotely. I haven't gotten a copy of the key made for myself yet, so I'll be hosed the day the battery runs out

 

[useless_DIYer]

Does anyone have any of the ge 45637 installed with wink? I just purchased 4 from Lowes, and was wondering if the on off status is correct.

This is my 1st try with a non wink product and I'm wondering how to put the GE switch itself into pairing mode? I'm excited to have finally found a product with less instructions and customer support than wink....didn't know that was possible.

 

[BillinGlendale]

Does the one I have running provide the framework for setting up timers?

Yes. Create a robot that sends a notification to android, set up a profile that reacts to the that notification in Tasker. Create a task that calls 'Wink Process Command' with a parameter that contains the information of what you want to do. You might also need to call 'Wink Get Device By Name' to get the proper data for the parameter to call 'Wink Process Command'.

 

[WINKY-DINK]

Honestly Dave:
The Gizmodo review was pretty much spot on with my experience. I'm willing to say that here, and not linking to my own blog to generate traffic.

Let me say this - I am a member of www.winkworkshop.com and unlike this forum, which happens to be great, you can search items at the Wink Work Shop AND it's not so cluttered with ONE HUGE THREAD.

So, as a new user of WINK hub: 7 GE Link Bulbs; 12 Lutron Caseta Switches and Pico remotes; 2 Honeywell Wi-Fi Thermostats, the Chamberlain MyQ Garage Door Opener (2 doors); and soon to arrive Nest Smoke/CO2 detectors (3) I can only say I appreciate the dialogue, not only on this forum but on the wink work shop as well. Last I heard, this country was founded on competition which only makes the product better - so competition between Wink Work Shop and AnandTech just make good sense. And that's my 2 cents !!

Keep up the good work at BOTH forums, we the users are the ones who win.
If you want to read some really great innovative setups (currently far over my head and no way for me to win the "invention" contest going on over there) shoot over to www.winkworkshop.com, I'm sure you'll be glad you did.

 

[MjnMixael]

I agree, it would be really nice to get battery status & also set user codes remotely. I haven't gotten a copy of the key made for myself yet, so I'll be hosed the day the battery runs out

We are just now starting to test user code features. I haven't setup my lock yet on the testing system, so I can't say yet if battery status is included.

EDIT: I've also been testing the Pella stuff for a few days. I'll share more when I get a better view of how well they are working.

 

[enyce9]

This is my 1st try with a non wink product and I'm wondering how to put the GE switch itself into pairing mode? I'm excited to have finally found a product with less instructions and customer support than wink....didn't know that was possible.

Hahaha good luck. My switches were delivered today, but haven't had a chance to open the FedEx box yet.

 

[WINKY-DINK]

My current setup consists of the Wink hub.
I originally started looking at automation because my 3 outdoor lights are triggered by a builder installed photo sensor that is on the shady side of the house. So they turn on too early and stay on long after the sun rises. Those work great and the wife was impressed.

My new project is to setup both of the children's bedrooms with a dimmer switch to control the lighting in the room and to also be able to turn the light off and on instead of trying to yell so loud they can hear me over their xbox headsets. The current panel has tow gangs, one for the light, the other for an outlet in the room. I really don't want to mess with the power switch other than making sure the new switch matches the color and style. But for the light switch I want to have a switch that is capable of letting me know what state it is in, on, off or otherwise. And from what I have ready in the forums that seems to be an issue.

Any thoughts? Are the Lutron Caseta switches the best? http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-6WCL...pr_product_top

But I see one post for that switch that says it hums, another post says it requires a Caseta hub, and another that says you will have to buy special gang box.

Can someone recommend a pair of switches that match color and style (one swtich WINK controllable, the other can be a dumb switch), will work with the standard two gang box.

And hopefully if I forget a wall plate or something I can pick that up at Home Depot, Lowes or Mendards.

I have 12 Lutron Caseta Switches and associated Picos running in my home - no buzzing, no noise. Super easy to install if you have basic electrical. The Pico Remotes pairing is very simple. I love the switches and they all report correctly on/off in the iPhone App.

I am using the Lutron Caseta/Pico Switches with WINK Hub, Not Lutron Hub

 

[fletchb]

ok rather than try it myself and fail multiple times....hoping for some tips on here. Just got the Leviton DZS with matching Vizia remote (LED) for a 3 way setup. The existing wiring is confusing me greatly...I could really use some assistance if anyone has time. Pic of existing wire on both switches is attached.

I assume the remote goes on the right side (pic) and I just use the neutral (white) and the black (which goes to black screw on existing switch)...?

The main switch is asking me for 4 wires and a ground, but there are only currently 3 and a ground hooked to existing switch. So I need to identify line hot, traveler 1, traveler 2, and neutral in the left side (pic)...no idea how to do this.

of course it won't let me attach a pic yet...help!

I can give you some general pointers but thats about all I can do without giving you possible bad advice. It goes without saying, kill power to the circuit before you remove the switch plate.

I don't think there is a guaranteed standard, but in my house, white was the neutral, and red wires were the travelers. Black was of course line (hot) and load.

I did a 4 way for my den.

Find the main switch - the one that is directly hooked to the load (wire going directly to the light. I found mine years ago when I installed insteon switches. I think I found it by removing one of the travelers and seeing which switch still worked. There is probably a better way to do this but it worked for me.

On my main switch I first found the line with a vom, you can do the same with a cheap light tester if you don't have a vom. Once you know that the other black wire should be the load. You need a neutral, on mine they are white, but I asked a electrician friend and he says white can be used for other things so be careful.

So for the main switch, you should have Line (hot) , load (wire going to the light), Neutral, and a traveler wire. If you don't see this , something is wrong,,,not the main switch, your house doesn't have neutral, or for some other reason .

Get this sorted before you even worry about the remote. Your remote will be a little more complicated than mine since you went with the LED version. I think you need 1 extra wire for the led.

Hope this helps..

 

[WINKY-DINK]

This is exactly why I don't trust ANY of these systems with door locks or garage door openers.

I have the Chamberlain MYQ Universal which operates my 2 garage doors. So far (2 weeks) it has not reported any incorrect state of the door(s).

I happen to think its a great device - a little overpriced for a 'fancy' garage door remote, but now we are able to open the garage when we are upstairs to let people into the house.

 

[WINKY-DINK]

We are just now starting to test user code features. I haven't setup my lock yet on the testing system, so I can't say yet if battery status is included.

EDIT: I've also been testing the Pella stuff for a few days. I'll share more when I get a better view of how well they are working.

I have a single hole steel entry door into the house from the garage. I want to get a WINK connectable lock that IS NOT a deadbolt. So far, I have seen the Schalge FE 599 and the Kwikset 912 lever locks.

Anyone been able to get the Schlage to work on the Wink hub? I have heard that sometimes it opens but never locks.

Also, which lock is the better of the two - schalge lever or Kwikset lever.

:'(

I do know that the Kwickset 912 lever lock works because it has the same 'brain' as the deadbolt which is certified by WINK to work. However, I think the Schlage looks nicer. But I will get the one that works the best with most features. So, any comments are welcome. Thanks.

 

[fletchb]

Yes. Create a robot that sends a notification to android, set up a profile that reacts to the that notification in Tasker. Create a task that calls 'Wink Process Command' with a parameter that contains the information of what you want to do. You might also need to call 'Wink Get Device By Name' to get the proper data for the parameter to call 'Wink Process Command'.

Do you know of any beginner tasker tutorials ? Is there such a thing as debug mode in tasker so you can see what is being passed and where things are failing?

Craig gave me a simple 1 line task to do the above, yet something is still going wrong.

Thanks.