The Wink home automation thread

[trunzoc]

Has anyone used any of the Cooper z-wave switches? They look a lot nicer than most and actually have an LED indicator of the brightness level. I like the fact that you can get a bunch of colors too. Expensive, so I'm trying to find people that have used them prior to dropping the cash.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZVM6SY

 

[dgruhin]

This is a dangerous assumption. As an electrician that has worked in the field I can assure you that there is no standard and it is completely up to however the person wiring is feeling that day. I can't stress enough the importance of using a multimeter to figure out what each wire in your switch box is before doing an install

+1 Electricity is potentially dangerous and sticking your hands in a box blindly without identifying wires and voltages is risky.

In my current home, going from box to box wiring was different, make no assumptions as to your wiring, get a meter or hire an electrician if you are even remotely unsure.

 

[mugen27]

Hello All,

I have lights in my kitchen which can be turned on/off with 2 different switches. Would I be able purchase Leviton DTZ Universal Dimmer switch and then have it controlled by the Wink Hub or do I need to replace the other switch also?

In another scenario, I have a set of lights in my family room that are turned on/off by 3 separate swtiches, can I also use that same Leviton Dimmer Switch?

I'm using the Wink Relay and Hub - so far I haven't found too many uses for it other then turning on some GE light bulbs.

I have the following connected:

1) Honewell Thermostat - Wink doesn't seem to control it very well or has extremely limited functions
2) MyQ garage opener - works for the most part
3) 2 Trippers - They are ok but haven't found any specific use for them yet
4) 3 GE bulbs - scheduling for these don't always work.

Any help appreciated.

 

[blampen]

Hello All,

I have lights in my kitchen which can be turned on/off with 2 different switches. Would I be able purchase Leviton DTZ Universal Dimmer switch and then have it controlled by the Wink Hub or do I need to replace the other switch also?

In another scenario, I have a set of lights in my family room that are turned on/off by 3 separate swtiches, can I also use that same Leviton Dimmer Switch?

I'm using the Wink Relay and Hub - so far I haven't found too many uses for it other then turning on some GE light bulbs.

I have the following connected:

1) Honewell Thermostat - Wink doesn't seem to control it very well or has extremely limited functions
2) MyQ garage opener - works for the most part
3) 2 Trippers - They are ok but haven't found any specific use for them yet
4) 3 GE bulbs - scheduling for these don't always work.

Any help appreciated.

You can use the leviton dimmer switch along with a VP00R-10Z companion switch to wire a setup with 2 switch locations.

 

[daudet419]

Just to consolidate a list of resources:

Kaido's Wink wiki (mine - outdated, and I'm not sure if I plan to update it if I jump ship to SmartThings v2)
Wink Status API (official system status site)

Discussion Groups:

Anandtech thread for the Wink Hub (this thread)
Wink User Group on Facebook
Wink Hub on Reddit
Quirky forums (nothing official just for the Wink, however)
Unofficial Wink Products forum
dgruhin's Wink Workshop forums
winkaggiehouse's Wink Home Automation forum

Third-party projects:

BillinGlendale's web page control project for Wink
Craig Trunzo's Tasker Wink Hub integration Project
WinkControl for the Pebble e-ink smartwatch

Neat installations:

ieee_raider's wall-mounted tablet
dgruhin's wall-mounted iPhone

Hello everyone
here is a new one to add to the list.
Wink@Home English forum with French section on a PhPbb

This is a remake of what I proposed to Wink last fall but they were not ready for it.
A friend here near Montreal was starting a similar forum but only in French. I showed him my English one and from that discussion we merged both on his domain.

Now it is ready to lift off. So feel free to visit and register.
This forum is multi sections/topics and we are open to suggestions.
Have fun everyone's

Daniel

WinkatHome.com

 

[WINKY-DINK]

The first picture (above) shows a CREE 60W LED (regular bulb - not a Connect). Notice the grid that can be seen in the enclosed ceiling fixture. In my opinion, using the Cree 60W LED Non-Connect light bulb with my Lutron Caseta switches is not the optimum bulb. Perhaps if it was in a lamp it would be better because the grid would not be so apparent. I will say that I am going to purchase a different regular LED for the fixture and I will most likely try two (2) 40W LED bulbs because I think the 'glare' from the 60W Cree is too harsh and ugly as you look at the fixture. This may be the case with any 60W LED.

This is another picture of the CREE 60W Dimmable non-connect bulb in the ceiling fixture. The glare is not that nice to look at. The picture below will show the Cree Connect and you will see why it casts the ceiling crate look. All of the Cree bulbs that have the 4 flow filament design will show the crate-look in any application that is not in a table lamp. This design, in my opinion, is the reason why the crate-like look is cast in a downward/sideways use of the bulb (ceiling/wall fixture). I believe its also the reason for the 'flimsy' feel.

NOW THE CREE 60W CONNECT

First - the CREE CONNECT is the fastest connecting bulb to the WINK Hub. Virtually, instant recognition when you want to add it. That's a great feature.

Here iis the CREE Connect in the table lamp next to my bed.

What I don't like about this bulb in comparison with the GE LINK 60W is the build. You can see the "vertical equator" of the bulb. It's plastic, flimsy, and feels like it's going to break when you hold it. The plastic (yes plastic) bulb is not connected to the bulb and is not connected to itself. The plastic bulb is 'fitted' together (think of it as being cut down the middle of the bulb from above - there are 2 halves of a plastic bulb) but if you hold it too tightly the plastic will 'disconnect' from itself. I think you have to hold one to understand what I am trying to convey. Bottom line - the build feels cheap and flimsy whereas the GE LINK is a solid build, all glass, and much nicer looking bulb than the Cree (also much heavier).

Here is a picture of the CREE Connect and how the shadow cast looks on the ceiling

The CREE CONNECT 60W bulb is not as bright as the GE LINK, it has more of a yellow hue. I put it against a regular 60W incandescent and it had the same color value as the incandescent, but it seemed that it was not as 'bright'. I think if you wanted to read a book by a lamp you would want a slightly brighter light. In a table lamp I think the CREE looks better than the GE LINK because it diffuses the light as opposed to the GE LINK which 'shoots' the light straight up in a concentrated light and makes a pattern on the ceiling. However, the difference between the bulbs in a lamp with a traditional shade is not that different. I would go with the GE LINK because I like a brighter light. Just my personal taste. The CREE is a 2700 Kelvin Bulb with 800 or 810 Lumens. The GE LINK is a 2700 Kelvin Bulb with 880 Lumens.

Turning off the CREE Connect with the Wink App was nice, a quick dim down to off. The GE LINK Bulb is a slightly slower dim to off. Neither one, in my opinion, was better than the other.

GE LINK BULB

Here's a picture of the GE LINK in a table lamp in my living room. I like the light and it isn't harsh looking through the lamp shade.

Here's a picture of the GE LINK Bulb light cast onto the ceiling - it is brighter than the CREE Connect light cast to the ceiling.

BOTTOM LINE -
My preference is the GE LINK. I'm going to return the Cree Connect and the Cree regular LED to Home Depot. I will replace the Cree Connect with a GE LINK for my bedside lamp because I prefer more light over the dimmer light. I don't mind the ceiling look of the lamp with the GE LINK bulb. I will purchase an Osram or Utilitech (Lowes) 40W Dimmable or some other dimmable bulb for my ceiling fixtures (you must use dimmable bulbs with the Lutron Caseta/Pico switches or you will get some AMAZING non-stop flicker when you try to turn off the light!)

 

[WINKY-DINK]

So, I have a GE Link A-19 Bulb in a lamp on the nightstand in my bedroom. Last night, in the dark, I noticed that a faint blue light was shining on the ceiling above the bulb. In the morning, my wife asked why there was a blue light on the ceiling. She saw it and got out of bed to investigate, thinking I had plugged in an LCD blue night light into the socket.


I called WINK this morning and they had never heard of such issue. I wonder if the new APP update messed up the OFF and 0% brightness. Anyone else have any similar experience?

After I replaced the GE LINK bulb with a Cree, I realized that the faint blue hue on the ceiling was coming from my iPhone battery pack, which blinks when it is charging. I usually leave the phone in the kitchen. After I intalled the Cree, I turned off all the lights in the room (with the iPhone connected to the lightning cable) and I realized it was the phone.

IN ANY EVENT - check out my review of the Cree Connect and the GE Link in "BATTLE OF THE BULBS" with pictures.

 

[Savij]

...

BOTTOM LINE -
My preference is the GE LINK. I'm going to return the Cree Connect and the Cree regular LED to Home Depot. I will replace the Cree Connect with a GE LINK for my bedside lamp because I prefer more light over the dimmer light. I don't mind the ceiling look of the lamp with the GE LINK bulb. I will purchase an Osram or Utilitech (Lowes) 40W Dimmable or some other dimmable bulb for my ceiling fixtures (you must use dimmable bulbs with the Lutron Caseta/Pico switches or you will get some AMAZING non-stop flicker when you try to turn off the light!)

Have you had a chance to try the Osram connected bulbs? CNET seems to like them: http://www.cnet.com/products/osram-lightify-led-starter-kit/

 

[WINKY-DINK]

Have you had a chance to try the Osram connected bulbs? CNET seems to like them: http://www.cnet.com/products/osram-lightify-led-starter-kit/

I think at $30 per bulb I don't care how 'great' they might be.

$15 for a connected bulb is my limit and I only use them where I haven't installed my Lutron Caseta / Pico switch combinations. I installed 12 Casetas which, in the long run, will be cheaper because you can use any type of dimmable bulbs with them. Just my 2cents.

 

[FreddieT]

BOTTOM LINE -
My preference is the GE LINK. I'm going to return the Cree Connect and the Cree regular LED to Home Depot. I will replace the Cree Connect with a GE LINK for my bedside lamp because I prefer more light over the dimmer light. I don't mind the ceiling look of the lamp with the GE LINK bulb. I will purchase an Osram or Utilitech (Lowes) 40W Dimmable or some other dimmable bulb for my ceiling fixtures (you must use dimmable bulbs with the Lutron Caseta/Pico switches or you will get some AMAZING non-stop flicker when you try to turn off the light!)

Thanks for your review and comparison. I was thinking of picking up the Cree Connect to give them a shot, but you've done the legwork and answered my questions about them.

 

[ieee_raider]

Has anyone used any of the Cooper z-wave switches? They look a lot nicer than most and actually have an LED indicator of the brightness level. I like the fact that you can get a bunch of colors too. Expensive, so I'm trying to find people that have used them prior to dropping the cash.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZVM6SY

I can tell you this much... they don't work with LED's. (dimming)

 

[Kaido]

I'm not a big fan of connected lights. They're great in theory, but I prefer the lightswitches to have the automation because:

1. Then I'm not hosed if someone flicks the lightswitch off (so I can't turn on the smartbulb), and

2. I can use my choice of bulb, including ones that aren't offered in a smart configuration yet like 100w-equivalent LED's

I'd probably be more included to buy more smart bulbs if I could rig up the Pico remotes as wallswitches, but those only want to talk to the Lutron light switches & plugs, so...yeah. Needs to be more open for sure.

 

[trunzoc]

I'm not a big fan of connected lights. They're great in theory, but I prefer the lightswitches to have the automation because:

1. Then I'm not hosed if someone flicks the lightswitch off (so I can't turn on the smartbulb), and

2. I can use my choice of bulb, including ones that aren't offered in a smart configuration yet like 100w-equivalent LED's

I'd probably be more included to buy more smart bulbs if I could rig up the Pico remotes as wallswitches, but those only want to talk to the Lutron light switches & plugs, so...yeah. Needs to be more open for sure.

Exactly. I have about 2 dozen smart switches in my house and exactly 1 lamp. The lamp is only for testing purposes. I really can't see spending $15 on a single bulb (and what room has only 1 bulb?) when I can just spend $30 on a switch, then get $3 bulbs forever.

The Hue system is the only smart bulb I would consider, but I honestly have no use for it, and no desire to spend close to $200 for colors.

 

[bigverm24]

Exactly. I have about 2 dozen smart switches in my house and exactly 1 lamp. The lamp is only for testing purposes. I really can't see spending $15 on a single bulb (and what room has only 1 bulb?) when I can just spend $30 on a switch, then get $3 bulbs forever.

The Hue system is the only smart bulb I would consider, but I honestly have no use for it, and no desire to spend close to $200 for colors.

You have a $3 bulb that lasts 22 years??

 

[bigverm24]

Exactly. I have about 2 dozen smart switches in my house and exactly 1 lamp. The lamp is only for testing purposes. I really can't see spending $15 on a single bulb (and what room has only 1 bulb?) when I can just spend $30 on a switch, then get $3 bulbs forever.

The Hue system is the only smart bulb I would consider, but I honestly have no use for it, and no desire to spend close to $200 for colors.

Also what kind of switch are you using? These Levitons are breaking my bank!!

 

[badger98]

I totally agree with this sentiment. I have, however, found a niche that I really like the connected bulbs for. That is lamps that are not operated by a wall switch. Very few of the outlets in my house are switched, and as a result, we didn't use the lamps we had all that often, instead using the ceiling lights operated by the switch. The connected bulbs take the place of clumsy lamp timers and offer some nice remote/automatic switching capabilities for lamps that were otherwise rarely used in our home.

For the installed lighting operated by wall switches, though, I definitely plan to go with installed dimmers switches.

I'm not a big fan of connected lights. They're great in theory, but I prefer the lightswitches to have the automation because:

1. Then I'm not hosed if someone flicks the lightswitch off (so I can't turn on the smartbulb), and

2. I can use my choice of bulb, including ones that aren't offered in a smart configuration yet like 100w-equivalent LED's

I'd probably be more included to buy more smart bulbs if I could rig up the Pico remotes as wallswitches, but those only want to talk to the Lutron light switches & plugs, so...yeah. Needs to be more open for sure.

 

[MjnMixael]

Exactly. I have about 2 dozen smart switches in my house and exactly 1 lamp. The lamp is only for testing purposes. I really can't see spending $15 on a single bulb (and what room has only 1 bulb?) when I can just spend $30 on a switch, then get $3 bulbs forever.

The Hue system is the only smart bulb I would consider, but I honestly have no use for it, and no desire to spend close to $200 for colors.

I found use for Hue for decorative lighting. I'm building a home theater room and have to have a soffit to hide an air duct. So I gave the soffit a curved side and open top, then I hid Hue lightstrips up there.

Use Tasker (since Wink can't, by contract, automate Hue it seems) to automate the Hue lights on/off based on the rest of the rooms lighting... Tada! I've got some other decorative plans for Hue lights as well.

But yeah.. Hue for central lighting doesn't seem ideal.

 

[trunzoc]

You have a $3 bulb that lasts 22 years?? Also what kind of switch are you using? These Levitons are breaking my bank!!

I might be the exception because I live in PA, but our Power Company, PP&L, does a lot to be green (or appear so). One of their programs is to subsidize LEDs at a few stores. I can go into my Home Depot and buy a CREE for $5 any day of the week. At least once every other month, they have a sale where they are only $2.99.

I have a mostly Insteon switches that are roughly $50 but don't apply here, and a couple Lutron Caseta Dimmer/Picos that do. The Lutron's can also be had for $50 or less if you are patient.

Thing is that almost every switch in my house controls 4 or so bulbs. All bedrooms have 4-bulb fans, the kitchen has 2 switches that each control 4 pots. the living room has a 4-bulb fan, the bathroom is a single bulb vent, and a 4-bulb vanity.

I'd rather spend $70 on 4 bulbs and a lutron than spend $60 on 4 connected bulbs.

And yeah, the LEDs might last 22 years, but what about the "smart bits" that turn the bulb on and off?

I've seen to many reports of delay between multiple bulbs turning on, some commands getting dropped, etc.

 

[Kaido]

I totally agree with this sentiment. I have, however, found a niche that I really like the connected bulbs for. That is lamps that are not operated by a wall switch. Very few of the outlets in my house are switched, and as a result, we didn't use the lamps we had all that often, instead using the ceiling lights operated by the switch. The connected bulbs take the place of clumsy lamp timers and offer some nice remote/automatic switching capabilities for lamps that were otherwise rarely used in our home.

For the installed lighting operated by wall switches, though, I definitely plan to go with installed dimmers switches.

Ah, that's a good point. I had my GE Link bulb in my bedside lamp. But then it'd get annoying because I'd turn the lamp off manually before bed (instead of reaching for my phone, unlocking, opening the app, etc.) and then couldn't control it when it was off.

I wish the plug-in lighting controllers were cheaper because then I'd just buy a few of those & use a Pico remote instead.

 

[badger98]

Ah, that's a good point. I had my GE Link bulb in my bedside lamp. But then it'd get annoying because I'd turn the lamp off manually before bed (instead of reaching for my phone, unlocking, opening the app, etc.) and then couldn't control it when it was off.

I wish the plug-in lighting controllers were cheaper because then I'd just buy a few of those & use a Pico remote instead.

Yep, another good point. There's the trade-off. With the plug-in lighting controllers you can use the Pico remote to create a wall switch/remote where there wasn't one, but you can't operate the lamp manually when the controller is off. With the connected light bulbs you can operate the lamp manually, but at the risk of messing up your control via the phone/hub.

For me, the best compromise was to use the connected light bulbs, schedule/automate as much of the lighting control as I could, and put the manual functions I needed the most into shortcuts that could easily be pulled up on my phone in the Wink shortcut widget. At the end of the day (literally), all I really need to do manually is to shut off the lights when I go to bed, which I can do pretty easily from the phone before putting it on the charger.

 

[WINKY-DINK]

Thanks for your review and comparison. I was thinking of picking up the Cree Connect to give them a shot, but you've done the legwork and answered my questions about them.

FreddieT - You should check the bulb out for yourself - you might like it. Get it at HD and if you dont like it bring it back - Last time I was there I saw a sign at customer service that basically said 'you don't like it for any reason we gladly take it back and refund your money'. Just have your receipt so you dont have to get a Home Depot 'Cash' card.

 

[WINKY-DINK]

Has anyone set up a water meter shut off valve using the WINK system? I'm really interested in finding a good one that will work. What I really want is a shut off valve that could sense # of gallons used in a particular time or just shut off water if it senses water running for more than 20 minutes - which I think would be a pipe leak.

 

[bigverm24]

So I still appear to be the only person in the world that doesn't have robot triggering capability via Leviton switches ( yes I know they probably don't function right anyway)...

Does anyone think this could have anything to do with my WiFi network? Just realized my network is still setup on WPA2 PSK....

 

[FreddieT]

FreddieT - You should check the bulb out for yourself - you might like it. Get it at HD and if you dont like it bring it back - Last time I was there I saw a sign at customer service that basically said 'you don't like it for any reason we gladly take it back and refund your money'. Just have your receipt so you dont have to get a Home Depot 'Cash' card.

I think I'm going to do that because I've pretty much had my fill of the GE A19 bulbs. I'm also considering picking up the TCP Connected kit (2 bulbs + gateway) as well to give them a shot as well.
I came home today to a house all lit up like a Christmas tree again because of a power outage. And as I've learned, the GE bulbs default to an "all on" state after a power outage and the Wink hub loses all control over them. I'm tired of constantly having to reset these bulbs and reconnect them to the Wink hub to be able to control them again! I'm done with the GE bulbs!

 

[TechWise]

Yep, another good point. There's the trade-off. With the plug-in lighting controllers you can use the Pico remote to create a wall switch/remote where there wasn't one, but you can't operate the lamp manually when the controller is off. With the connected light bulbs you can operate the lamp manually, but at the risk of messing up your control via the phone/hub.

For me, the best compromise was to use the connected light bulbs, schedule/automate as much of the lighting control as I could, and put the manual functions I needed the most into shortcuts that could easily be pulled up on my phone in the Wink shortcut widget. At the end of the day (literally), all I really need to do manually is to shut off the lights when I go to bed, which I can do pretty easily from the phone before putting it on the charger.

I ordered a spotter with three buttons to go beside the bed to manually turn off the bedside lamps. Unfortunately it has been on backorder for 4 months.