Thinking about getting a welder

[AMCRambler]

So I've got bunch of welding needed on my project car. I need to replace the front floor pans and weld together a new exhaust. I've been debating paying someone to come do the work vs purchasing a decent mig welding setup and doing it myself.

Im leaning towards buying the welder. For around a grand I can get a good 120 volt Lincoln 140 mig kit and a bottle of shielding gas. When all is said done having a someone come do the work will cost close to the same. The added benefit is I'll have a good welder that should last me a long time and I can finally teach myself to weld.

What do you think?

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

DO IT! It is SO much fun!!! I had this same debate last year and I can tell you from experience: it is the most fulfilling feeling ever to create things out of scraps.
I also have a Lincoln 140 MIG, and its doing the trick for my needs, but I wouldnt go any lower.
For sure man, pick up some argon/CO2 and .023 wire and you can do some sheet metal work. OR switch over to .035 wire and weld some thicker angle iron to create braces.

One necessity is an auto darkening helmet. The best accessory to have as a welder.
Also wear full arm protection. Welding gives off UV light. I got burned on my arms when I didnt wear protection and it hurt like a sunburn.

Yup. Do it. Do it. You will not regret.
There are some greats tips and information found here.

EDIT: also, it'll add a star to your man card.

 

[AMCRambler]

Im looking at maybe picking this up off CL. He's got a helmet listed with plus a full bottle and a cart. If it really is brand new seems like a good deal.
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/tls/2824299118.html

 

[SyndromeOCZ]

I've been eyeing the Lincoln 180 DUAL for some time now. For me it would be the best because it operates on both 120 and 220. I'm not sure if I could invest in anything else at this point.

 

[skyking]

I looked at both the Lincoln and the Miller. I can get the Miller for a grand out the door with a helmet and some small accessories. Having that added amperage is well worth the cost.
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/product.php?model=M00245

 

[JCH13]

For that sort of money I'd be awfully tempted to get something like this:

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/MTS-200S-3913-pd.html

Yeah, I know it's not a Miller or a Lincoln, but you really only need that sort of durability in a real weld shop, not in your garage. This would give you a TIG welder for stainless and the ability to weld aluminum with a synergic MIG process. Synergic MIG welding looks like TIG welding, stacked dimes and everything.

 

[franksta]

Do it. I do not own a MIG machine. However, my my uncle did and he taught me to use one to weld new floorpans into my old Volkswagen. With around 30 minutes of practice I put the pans in without too much hassle.

Having said that I found myself in the financial situation to buy a welder a few years ago. I bought a Lincoln Precision TIG 225. I went with the Lincoln because it was less expensive than a comparable Miller. I have not done any research on specific MIG machines but the general advice I've seen is "get a red, white, or blue one" (Lincoln, Hobart, Miller respectively). Spending more money usually gets you more power and a longer duty cycle. You won't need much of either for floors or exhaust due to metal being so thin.


I'll also second the auto darkening helmet and safety gear. I did the VW pans with a fixed shade and it sucks so bad. You will not regret getting a nice helmet. MIG spatters a whole heck of a lot and I had no hair left on my arms after I did the pans. Long sleeves and gloves at a minimum. They make specific welding jackets that are flame resistant, not too expensive, I got mine as a gift.

 

[Ferzerp]

One necessity is an auto darkening helmet. The best accessory to have as a welder.

Only if you lose the awareness of where your body and metal is during the time you flip down the helmet

 

[darom]

I would look for a 220V used/refurbished unit with a factory warranty. I bought my Hobart 175 for $550 shipped with a 1 year warranty (online store), the Argon CO bottle was $120 (locally), the Harbor Freight auto-dark. helmet another $50. The welding wire is another $15-20 for a spool. You can weld your own cart out the HF parts (wheels) and scraps of metal.

I agree with previous posters here - when you do your own job, the feeling of accomplishment is great!

 

[JCH13]

Only if you lose the awareness of where your body and metal is during the time you flip down the helmet

When doing car stuff, particularly under a car, it can be impossible to fit your head with a flipped-up helmet into the space where you need to view your weld. This where an auto-dark helmet is indispensable. Not to mention when tack-welding large pieces of sheet metal, where it can save you dozens of flip-ups and flip-downs over the course of a job. Or break-arc TIG welding.

I did buy a $50 auto-tint at first. Within a few months I spent around $250 on a 'real' auto-tint helmet with a much larger viewing area, faster response, and (most importantly) two extra and more sensitive light sensors, a Miller Pro. The good helmets have an adjustable tint range, mine goes from 8-13. I have used it on low-current TIG welding, like soda cans, and for high-current MIG welding (300-400A). Works great in both situations and anything in between. $200+ might sound like overkill, but after my cheap helmet flaked out on me half a dozen times and all the eye drops in the world could make my eyes feel better, I happily spent the money.

 

[Gillbot]

For the prices I was quoted for exhaust work, I just bought a welder. I ended up grabbing a cheap-o ARC and a tig kit off of ebay. Never looked back.

 

[Ronstang]

Get a 220V machine. You will not be happy with the 120V machine. Even if it manages to do what you want up front you will soon wish it did more. I have used them and they are very limited and need breaker that has nothing else on the circuit of you will constantly be tripping the breaker. I have used them and they are frustrating, although that may be that I have always had 220V machines.

 

[Bartman39]

I would look for a 220V used/refurbished unit with a factory warranty. I bought my Hobart 175 for $550 shipped with a 1 year warranty (online store), the Argon CO bottle was $120 (locally), the Harbor Freight auto-dark. helmet another $50. The welding wire is another $15-20 for a spool. You can weld your own cart out the HF parts (wheels) and scraps of metal.

I agree with previous posters here - when you do your own job, the feeling of accomplishment is great!

X2 on the 220V... When it comes to duty cycle and for a smoother arc the 220V units out shine their 110V counterparts... I have a Snapon YA205A that I bought way back in 1995 that has welded everything from exhaust pipe to 3/8ths plate and alum (fixed transmissions with cracks and a few outboard lower units)... For the hood the better auto darkening is for sure the best option and have one but still love my old Jackson helmet with an original "cool gold" blue tint gold covered #10 lens (been offered $100 for it but will always say no)... But sad to say I have to use 1.5 Cheaters... Sucks to get old...

 

[Gillbot]

And for those who don't have ready access to 220v in their garage, go to Lowes or your local electric supply and get some SO Cord and make a 220v extension cord with a dryer plug on one end and a socket for your welder on the other. Any "decent" electrical aisle worker at Lowes can help you determine the proper gauge, socket and sizing based on the distance you need.

If you REALLY don't know electrical stuff, ask your local electrical contractor about it. They can help and it should be a relatively inexpensive alternative to running a new circuit for 220v.

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

How hard is this to teach yourself? Working with metal is awesome.

 

[Gillbot]

Arc is the cheapest, pretty difficult to master and takes practice. Tig is similar but much cleaner and fairly costly, MIG is the easiest and probably the best middle ground. Practice is key though.

 

[Ferzerp]

When doing car stuff, particularly under a car, it can be impossible to fit your head with a flipped-up helmet into the space where you need to view your weld. This where an auto-dark helmet is indispensable. Not to mention when tack-welding large pieces of sheet metal, where it can save you dozens of flip-ups and flip-downs over the course of a job. Or break-arc TIG welding.

I did buy a $50 auto-tint at first. Within a few months I spent around $250 on a 'real' auto-tint helmet with a much larger viewing area, faster response, and (most importantly) two extra and more sensitive light sensors, a Miller Pro. The good helmets have an adjustable tint range, mine goes from 8-13. I have used it on low-current TIG welding, like soda cans, and for high-current MIG welding (300-400A). Works great in both situations and anything in between. $200+ might sound like overkill, but after my cheap helmet flaked out on me half a dozen times and all the eye drops in the world could make my eyes feel better, I happily spent the money.

I was partially poking fun at you because of the man points comment Real men use smoked glass! From a pure eye safety standpoint, though, nothing is going to beat smoked glass. Auto-dimmers are always going to let a fraction of a second of light through. Not that it is going to be long enough to hurt you, mind you, but you can't beat always dark!

 

[Soccerman06]

If your only doing sheet metal work say 12+ ga work, you will not need 220v mig plain and simple because theres not enough power. Lincoln and Miller both make quality products so use whichever. Get a set of http://www.weldingpartner.com/servlet/the-446/BLACKSTALLION-BSX-Pigskin-fdsh-Cowhide-MIG/Detail, they are very good and will last you forever and cost $10 at a welding supply store. You wont need an autodark helmet, but if you do, spend some money and get something decent or learn to close your eyes prior to pulling the trigger to not flash yourself. Get a green colored jacket, http://www.sheakleyequip.com/pip/30-green-welding-jacket.html, they are lightweight and breathe pretty well for welding gear. More specifically something that meets flame resistant from any major brand. Do yourself a favor and wear safety glasses when welding/grinding. If splatter wants to get in your eyes, it will but glasses stop 99% of it. Get a welders cap to, youd be surprised where splatter will get to.

I use http://store.cyberweld.com/3mspad91wadf2.html and wear full leathers at work, but Im not opposed to using my hand to block the light for tacking.

Pro tip, learn to not flinch when hot embers land on your neck or go down your shirt.

 

[Miramonti]

How to weld

Not posted because it's a particularly great vid, but because I've been very interested in welding and coincidentally happened to watch this yesterday trying to learn how-to basics and what's involved in doing at home. This is something I'd really love to learn and have the resources at home to do.

 

[JCH13]

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

This is the website where I send anyone who wants to teach themselves how to weld. Incredible resources, tons of how-to videos, and Jody (guy who runs the whole deal) is awesome at answering questions.

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

Thx. Any good advice on a good welding machine to start with? Guy I work with suggests 220v dc mig. Said he'd show me the ropes. I'm thinking of taking him up on it. I got a few projects in mind.

Not trying to thread jack. Hopefully any advice I get OP can use.

Would love to buy a ragged out utility trailer and rebuild it, Metal firewood racks, bird house stands, and whatever else I can come up with. Man card needs some more stars on it. What better way than building with metal?

 

[Gillbot]

If you want to start cheap, go ARC. For better and easier go MIG, and pay a little for it. I had a knockoff and it would stutter so bad I ended up throwing it away. Get a decent brand name and don't look back.

The thing I like about ARC is you can usually get decent priced TIG converters.

 

[Miramonti]

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

This is the website where I send anyone who wants to teach themselves how to weld. Incredible resources, tons of how-to videos, and Jody (guy who runs the whole deal) is awesome at answering questions.

Awesome, thanks. :thumbsup:

 

[Soccerman06]

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

This is the website where I send anyone who wants to teach themselves how to weld. Incredible resources, tons of how-to videos, and Jody (guy who runs the whole deal) is awesome at answering questions.

Good website, Im quite impressed someone who knows what hes talking about is out there and helping people.

Dont do arc with sheetmetal (tig is another story), that is asking for problems. Honestly the cheapest solution for OP would be to rent an acetylene and oxygen bottle and some wire to do exhaust and +16ga metal. But that is not a permanent solution as you dont keep anything.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/Equipment/Pages/product.aspx?product=K2689-1 or http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/product.php?model=M00245#load-panel-specifications Both of these are great and will do anything you want and they will both accept 115v or 230v. I would use the Lincoln one but its a little more money. Both of these would be capable of doing up to 1/2" mild steel with multiple passes.

One thing to remember, 75% of your success will come from skill 10% from cleaning or metal surface and 15% through wire (or stick). Different wire will react differently with different metal surfaces. For example a Lincoln la-90 is going to have a higher tensile strength than la-59 but wont look as good and wont have as good of a deoxidizer. Oxygen in a weld creates porosity which makes the weld look like bubbles which causes failures.

 

[alkemyst]

Only if you lose the awareness of where your body and metal is during the time you flip down the helmet

I take it you never went into the wrong hole then. at least unintentionally...

Unnecessary comment. Keep it on track, this is NOT OT.
AT Mod
Gillbot