Threadripper BUILDERS thread

[IEC]

Question to you guys with custom water setups. Would this kit be a good "starter" ? Could I simply add like a 360 rad in line or parallel with the included 240 ? And I assume the new EK water block you all keep talking about would work with this kit ? I would just love to buy it all in one kit, even if I had to enhance it.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAC8W5SB2259

As a starter, it is probably okay. IMO it's not a good deal if you want true custom loop performance. Aluminum radiators are the cheapest of the cheap, the kit costs more than building your own setup, and I would probably not recommend compression fittings for a beginner. I use barbs with hose clamps.

I would suggest waiting to see reviews of Threadripper custom blocks like the Heatkiller to see if the gains are worth learning to build a custom loop. I think without a better block and more rad space I'm going to have a hard time really pushing the limits of my chip much beyond what I could have done with a good AIO.

 

[Markfw]

As a starter, it is probably okay. IMO it's not a good deal if you want true custom loop performance. Aluminum radiators are the cheapest of the cheap, the kit costs more than building your own setup, and I would probably not recommend compression fittings for a beginner. I use barbs with hose clamps.

I would suggest waiting to see reviews of Threadripper custom blocks like the Heatkiller to see if the gains are worth learning to build a custom loop. I think without a better block and more rad space I'm going to have a hard time really pushing the limits of my chip much beyond what I could have done with a good AIO.

OK, so is there a complete real custom water setup, the pump, the lines and fittings, and a radiator (480 maybe ?) that is all copper ? and then I order the TR water block separate ? or do I just have to buy all the parts myself ?

Edit: is this any better ? is it copper ? it doesn;t say

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA85V4RM7684

 

[ub4ty]

As a starter, it is probably okay. IMO it's not a good deal if you want true custom loop performance. Aluminum radiators are the cheapest of the cheap, the kit costs more than building your own setup, and I would probably not recommend compression fittings for a beginner. I use barbs with hose clamps.

I would suggest waiting to see reviews of Threadripper custom blocks like the Heatkiller to see if the gains are worth learning to build a custom loop. I think without a better block and more rad space I'm going to have a hard time really pushing the limits of my chip much beyond what I could have done with a good AIO.

Can you give some linkage to a quick 101 on custom loops?
pump/rad/hoses/block
Why is it so expensive? Can you pick hose fittings that are guaranteed to not have leaks?
I see people putting this stuff together in youtube videos and they do leak testing after everything is hosed up. This makes me cringe...

Is there a sure fire way to prevent leaks? How do you gain confidence that this will never happen?

 

[FiLeZz]

The Thermaltake CL-W0148 can protect all system metals from corrosion and cavitation for maximum durability and minimum leakage. This is what I use and never had an issue mixing metals. car anti freeze uses the same principle. It has anti corrosion in it.

 

[ddogg]

OK, so is there a complete real custom water setup, the pump, the lines and fittings, and a radiator (480 maybe ?) that is all copper ? and then I order the TR water block separate ? or do I just have to buy all the parts myself ?

You will need to buy all the parts separately. For example, this is the radiator that I will be using just for TR https://modmymods.com/alphacool-nexxxos-monsta-480mm.html
It is an all copper radiator but is VERY thick and requires push/pull fans to properly push air through it. You get thinner configs like the UT60, UT45 etc. My case can easily accomodate it but others need to get thinner rads.
I separated my loop so I have dual parallel loop where the GPU is separate so another radiator is cooling it.
Fittings will depend on what kind of tubing you are going to use, hardline vs soft (sizing of tubes) and compression vs barb.

Can you give some linkage to a quick 101 on custom loops?
pump/rad/hoses/block
Why is it so expensive? Can you pick hose fittings that are guaranteed to not have leaks?
I see people putting this stuff together in youtube videos and they do leak testing after everything is hosed up. This makes me cringe...

Is there a sure fire way to prevent leaks? How do you gain confidence that this will never happen?

It is expensive because you need to buy the blocks, radiators, pumps, fittings, tubes etc. Fittings itself will run you in the 100s depending on what you get. There is no such fire way to prevent leaks but you need to leak test initially prior to firing up your system. Once you pass the initial leak test, it very rarely leaks. I've had maybe 1 leak in my 5 years of watercooling due to a bad oring.
Check out singuralitycomputers on youtube for tutorials on what you need, it requires a lot of research before you get into custom water cooling.

 

[eek2121]

I've been putting this machine through the ringer for the past couple hours. Highest temp so far was 86 degrees C according to HWInfo. It only hit that for a brief second. Most of the time it was in the 60s to low 70s. Stock clocks, but full core boost to 3.7 GHz. It didn't throttle at all, just sat there pegged at 3.7 GHz BEGGING to be overclocked. Not going to OC yet until I have a chance to play with it a bit more. My cooler is *only* a Thermaltake Riing240 mm. I might pull it apart and check that the thermal paste is spread enough, but so far so good...and holy balls is the Samsung 960 evo fast!

 

[ajc9988]

OK, so is there a complete real custom water setup, the pump, the lines and fittings, and a radiator (480 maybe ?) that is all copper ? and then I order the TR water block separate ? or do I just have to buy all the parts myself ?

Edit: is this any better ? is it copper ? it doesn;t say

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA85V4RM7684

Yes, that one uses the EK-cool stream XE 360, with copper tubing and fins. Also, do not attempt less than a 360 if possible for this chip. This radiator retails around $120 by itself. A pump, with housing, will be betterr $90-140. Then the CPU block is $100, the hose is decently cheap, fittings can be $3-7 per fitting, then fans are $10-30 a piece, depending which you get. Just go to EK's site and it had a component list in the kit. Price out each component. Then, if the cost is the same, replace different parts with ones you want more, like a black ice nemesis gtx on the radiator, or a different pump/res combo.

 

[IEC]

The Thermaltake CL-W0148 can protect all system metals from corrosion and cavitation for maximum durability and minimum leakage. This is what I use and never had an issue mixing metals. car anti freeze uses the same principle. It has anti corrosion in it.

The only thing is that adding anything to water results in reduced thermal performance. This is why I only run distilled (not DI, not RO - distilled) water with a silver kill coil added to the loop for its anti microbial properties. Plus, it's like $1/gallon versus $15+/liter...

Further disclaimer: I only use copper and brass in my loops. No aluminum.

 

[ub4ty]

I've been putting this machine through the ringer for the past couple hours. Highest temp so far was 86 degrees C according to HWInfo. It only hit that for a brief second. Most of the time it was in the 60s to low 70s. Stock clocks, but full core boost to 3.7 GHz. It didn't throttle at all, just sat there pegged at 3.7 GHz BEGGING to be overclocked. Not going to OC yet until I have a chance to play with it a bit more. My cooler is *only* a Thermaltake Riing240 mm. I might pull it apart and check that the thermal paste is spread enough, but so far so good...and holy balls is the Samsung 960 evo fast!

W00t. Good info. When you say you had it at stock clocks you mean out the box plug in it does 3.7Ghz (all cores) boost when needed w/ no backing off throttling? If so, that's what I want to hear.

 

[ub4ty]

Custom blocks comments...

Custom block comments...

Yeah, those numbers are making me dizzy. $100 max is what i'll spend on cooling. I keep thinking more and more that I have no desire for OC on my 1950x

 

[Markfw]

W00t. Good info. When you say you had it at stock clocks you mean out the box plug in it does 3.7Ghz (all cores) boost when needed w/ no backing off throttling? If so, that's what I want to hear.

Yes, thats what mine did, but I needed MORE SPEED !

 

[dnavas]

Just go to EK's site and it had a component list in the kit. Price out each component. Then, if the cost is the same, replace different parts with ones you want more, like a black ice nemesis gtx on the radiator, or a different pump/res combo.

Some links, because I'm traveling down this road about 2 minutes before you are:
https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/ <-- I use this to configure, and then
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/ <-- use this to research swapping the radiators

those are convenient places for a complete newb like me to have some kind of leg up above an empty search box on google :|

I'm taking notes about fittings from above

Even considering the higher flow resistance (whatever it's called) in the Nemesis 360 GTS, it seems to give reasonable cooling with a thin mount and it's optimized for quiet, which I like. I'm waiting and watching, though, to see if it'll be sufficient. Seems like we need to dump 500W or so out of the case for OCd rigs (which the loop-configurator doesn't seem to realize -- "150W" it says!), and 500W is about 15C temp rise for that rad, more if we keep the fans under reasonable rpms. The heatkiller block seems to be getting people smarter than me excited :shrug:
The 420 is likely better, but that means taking a saw to the ODD bay, which I'm trying to avoid (because I need them). I could put more exhaust radiators in there, but then keeping the case positive pressure is going to be really quite difficult.

 

[ddogg]

The only thing is that adding anything to water results in reduced thermal performance. This is why I only run distilled (not DI, not RO - distilled) water with a silver kill coil added to the loop for its anti microbial properties. Plus, it's like $1/gallon versus $15+/liter...

Further disclaimer: I only use copper and brass in my loops. No aluminum.

This is so true. I tried running pastel for a while and my temps were 10C higher than distilled. Distilled with a biocide or killcoil is the best out there and the most cost effective especially if you have to use 3+L of water in your system. I use a few drops of mayhems nonstain dye for a little pop as I run colorless tubing.

 

[ajc9988]

Some links, because I'm traveling down this road about 2 minutes before you are:
https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/ <-- I use this to configure, and then
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/ <-- use this to research swapping the radiators

those are convenient places for a complete newb like me to have some kind of leg up above an empty search box on google :|

I'm taking notes about fittings from above

Even considering the higher flow resistance (whatever it's called) in the Nemesis 360 GTS, it seems to give reasonable cooling with a thin mount and it's optimized for quiet, which I like. I'm waiting and watching, though, to see if it'll be sufficient. Seems like we need to dump 500W or so out of the case for OCd rigs (which the loop-configurator doesn't seem to realize -- "150W" it says!), and 500W is about 15C temp rise for that rad, more if we keep the fans under reasonable rpms. The heatkiller block seems to be getting people smarter than me excited :shrug:
The 420 is likely better, but that means taking a saw to the ODD bay, which I'm trying to avoid (because I need them). I could put more exhaust radiators in there, but then keeping the case positive pressure is going to be really quite difficult.

Don't forget, you can get more from the cooling in a push/pull configuration and that some fans do better with static pressure than others. I currently run 6 iPPC 3000 fans on a TT 3.0 ultimate.

 

[Markfw]

OK, I tried to config,. how about this ? $617

 

[dnavas]

OK, I tried to config,. how about this ? $617

Wow, dual pumps? If you want slim, I suggest the Nemesis GTS 360, rather than waiting until November for the SE 360 The GTS 360 should outperform even the PE 360 until your fans start pushing pretty hard (the range I have shows the GTS 360 topping at 362W/10C vs the PE at 367W/10C -- push only at ~1800rpm). The PE is larger in every dimension. That's from research, not experience, ymmv, I've not done this before either, etc.

 

[StefanR5R]

You don't need dual pumps unless you build a loop with several waterblocks.

(I currently have a loop with 1 CPU block, 3 GPU blocks, a 420 mm radiator, a 360 mm radiator, and a reservoir--pump combo with a single D5 pump.)

 

[ddogg]

OK, I tried to config,. how about this ? $617

I suggest the xe rad vs the ce. It is thicker and has much better thermal performance. You do not need dual d5s unless you run a dual loop like me. This means you can change your pump top.
Also what kind of tubing are you going to use? My suggestion would be to use soft tubing 1/2x3/4. You will need to get a few straight compression fittings and I recommend maybe 1 or 2 90 angled fittings.
Hardline tubing is nice but requires you to bend the PETG with a heat gun.

 

[Markfw]

I suggest the xe rad vs the ce. It is thicker and has much better thermal performance. You do not need dual d5s unless you run a dual loop like me. This means you can change your pump top.
Also what kind of tubing are you going to use? My suggestion would be to use soft tubing 1/2x3/4. You will need to get a few straight compression fittings and I recommend maybe 1 or 2 90 angled fittings.
Hardline tubing is nice but requires you to bend the PETG with a heat gun.

Thinking about doing my dual 1080TI's in the other loop (later) can one pump run independently of the other ?

Edit, and in no rush. After the $4000 TR build with the 1080TI's I am broke until after I pay for property taxes ($4200)

 

[ddogg]

Thinking about doing my dual 1080TI's in the other loop (later) can one pump run independently of the other ?

No they cannot. If you get a dual pump top they run in series. You have two options based on the route you plan to take.
1) Cool the GPUs independently of your CPU. This would mean you will need to get another pump, reservoir and radiator.
2) Include the GPUs in your current loop. Even with the added GPU blocks you still don't need dual pumps but you will need alot more rad. Plan to have another 360 or 480 on top of that 360 you are planning to get.

 

[dlerious]

EK also makes a res/pump combo. For D5 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs/reservoir-pump-combo/ek-d5-series and DDC https://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs/reservoir-pump-combo/ek-ddc-series

 

[IEC]

This is a beautiful chip. I am now at 4050Mhz (40.5 Multi) @ 1.300V after going a day at 4025MHz @ 1.300V with no issues. Assuming extended stress testing (AIDA64 stress) at 4050MHz passes, I will move up to 4075MHz next.

Also, broke 3500 CB15 score:

 

[Markfw]

This is a beautiful chip. I am now at 4050Mhz (40.5 Multi) @ 1.300V after going a day at 4025MHz @ 1.300V with no issues. Assuming extended stress testing (AIDA64 stress) at 4050MHz passes, I will move up to 4075MHz next.

Also, broke 3500 CB15 score:

Are you using Ryzen master or bios to OC ? I am at 3850 and 1.175 vcore

 

[guskline]

Markfw, with all due respect to Newegg (I have bought a LOT from them through the years) I have found PC Performance in Florida to be an EXCELLENT source for custom water cooling parts.

I would not go crazy on water cooling parts BUT lets start with a good solid pump. The EK D5-140 is VERY good. I paid a bit more for the glass tube one which I run in my Ryzen 7-1800x rig with a EK AM4 Supremacy block and an EK GTX1080 block. I use a Thermaltake V51 case and was able to fit 2 slim 360 Magicool rads in it which do a nice job of cooling.

I admittedly went overboard with my Thermaltake Core X9 case which is enormous. I stripped out the HDD cages as I run 2 Samsung 850 EVOs (500g each) in raid 0 and use a small 2.5 bracket and mounted a 2 gig WD Black HDD on the floor. That gave me room to mount 3 XSPC RX480 ver3 rads- 2 in the roof and 1 on the side. I used a XSPC Twin D5 bay reservoir, internally mounted. I have tons of cooling capacity etc. In addition I snagged @ 2years a go a MO-Ra3-420 Pro external radiator which I use for my 6700k/980TI combo.

If I was building a TR rig with 2 GTX1080TIs I would want at least 2 very thick 360 rads, if not a 360 and a 480 but that's me. I like tons of rad capacity.

The thermal output of an OC TR and 2 GTX1080TIs is going to be near 1000 watts. To keep a delta of less than 10 degrees between the coolant temp and the ambient temp with a 120 mm rad and fan speed of @1000 rpms you will probably need @6 to 7 120mm rads spaces. Brightcandle who used to post here in the cooling forum had a formula for how many rads spaces.

Suffice it to say you want decent cooling without fans running really loud. ddogg is spot on with his 480 mm rad and 6 gentle typhoons in push/pull

 

[guskline]

No they cannot. If you get a dual pump top they run in series. You have two options based on the route you plan to take.
1) Cool the GPUs independently of your CPU. This would mean you will need to get another pump, reservoir and radiator.
2) Include the GPUs in your current loop. Even with the added GPU blocks you still don't need dual pumps but you will need alot more rad. Plan to have another 360 or 480 on top of that 360 you are planning to get.

ddogg knows his stuff! I run dual D5s in series because I want to but a single solid D5 pump in a single loop for a cpu block and 2 gpu blocks plus 3 rads should be fine.