Tno's Antec Solo Watercooling Project!

[tno]

Changing up the OP, now this is my project post. I am going to be using the DD 4404 kit which features:

-MC-TDX Block
-240 Rad Black Ice Xtreme II with 2 med yates fan
-D5 12v fixed Speed Pump

I've already read that I should plan on replacing the block and that I should expect to not cool more than my CPU with the rad, and I also have a DD Res to use with the system, the problem comes with the installation. I have an Antec Solo case which I have loved and have tried lots of things to keep it as quiet as can be while cooling better and better. I made the jump from an old Zalman 9500 to Lego water cooling mainly for kicks and out of a distinct concern that this case had limited access around the CPU which could make installing something TRUE-ish a challenge.

I discovered that the same space issues I worried about with a large CPU cooler made using these Lego kits as challenging. I couldn't get either the Domino ALC or the Corsair H50 to fit properly in this case. What I did like were the temperatures I was seeing. Hence my desire to go big.

The offending piece on the Solo has always been the bar that runs the length of the case below the PSU. It makes it impossible to properly mount a 120mm radiator to the 120mm fan hole on the back of the case. But now, this radiator is just way too big to mount anywhere inside the case. I saw the radbox thing, but don't like that it will inherently block either my cards or my PSU. I might try something like it though. Given that part of this has always been about quiet I considered passively cooling it by leaving it on the bottom of the case with just some risers so the intake fans can blow across it. Is that insane?

However this works out, it'll be fun to mess around with these things and can't wait to see what I can pull off. Any advice would be appreciated. Pics and more updates to follow.

tno

 

[aigomorla]

http://www.dangerden.com/Videos/cpu-block-mounting.html

Read the intel style.

Dan from DD has made a great video.

 

[tno]

new title, new idea. ttt!

 

[tno]

Okay, so put the whole thing together on a whim. I know, Aigo, the last thing you want to do is go in without a plan; and I was intending on just spending an hour doing some planning and practicing putting the loop together. Pictures to follow tomorrow but ultimately I rigged up a radbox using an old 120mm fan (cut out the fan left the frame) and then did what I could to get everything in.

Lessons learned? I had done a terrible job with cable management (much improved now), and overestimated the space I'd have for a storage drive which will likely find a home in a NAS. Further, the cheap nylon fasteners aren't worth it. I used those and while there haven't been any leaks, I can see where the tubing has pulled away from beneath the nylon in a few of the spots. I'm going to pick up metal fasteners tomorrow and replace them. I did end up coming up short on tubing and made the stopgap of just going to Lowe's and getting the same ID vinyl tubing (but the only way to get the thickness I needed was to get braided tubing) but will replace this cheap stuff with some good stuff when I can.

And the results so far? 10 degrees cooler at load (54C vs 64C with the Domino). My idle temp is a bit unchanged from good air cooling (OCZ Direct Contact) at 40C so I'm not sure what to do with that. As far as quiet? Well I'm hampered right now by a drive cooler I added that has such a high whine that it distracts from other noises that might be present. I'm going to kill it and a Northbridge fan I added and see if that does the trick. I should be able to turn up the two front 92mm's a hair and cool the Northbridge enough that way without adding as much whine as those little fans.

All in all, somewhat successful, still work to be done. I'm liking this water stuff.

 

[aigomorla]

yeah water wont help you that greatly with idle.

The closer you are to ambients, the harder you need work done to get at ambient, or below ambient.

Below ambient is not possible without putting work into the system.

But the load decrease is nice.. seems you almost got 10C off an old TDX.

Keep note that u can change to a better block and get about 6-10C better range then what your currently at.

 

[tno]

Back for more. After running steady for a while I have a new toy to add. A Swiftech Apogee GTZ has joined the fun. Will bleed, leak test and rebuild tomorrow. What sort of improvement should I see over my MC-TDX? I see how it outperforms the Fusion V2 thanks to Skinnee, and how it falls behind its successor by a few degrees but what am I getting for my purchase. Pics to follow.