Originally posted by: feralkid
Originally posted by: mugs
Originally posted by: feralkid
Just to be sporting, I'll absolutely guarantee with a 200% money-back rebate offer there's only a nailer and that you are full of boloney, and besides you claimed that there would be wood at the front, which is unfreaking likely (random chance at best) and why am I wasting time on this moronic thread.
Cheers!
I'm thinking you're picturing this wrong. The front would be an outside corner where two walls come together. Yeah, there will be wood there.
Of course I'm picturing it wrong...there are no pics...it is utter speculation, and my assumptions would be as dopey as any in this thread.
I really don't think the OP did a poor job describing the job he wants to do. I think that you're the only person who doesn't get it. Yes, there will be a stud there.
OP: another reason the drywall won't work: working vertically, the drywall won't be attached to the studs as often as you're putting in shelves (you said 10 shelves.) So, once you've notched the drywall from the front edge to the back, you'll have several pieces of drywall that are only held in place by a little bit of drywall compound. Those pieces will not be fastened to the wall. I have sincere doubts that your shelves would remain functional & aesthetically pleasing for very long.
Providing that the wall is truly 4' wide or less, here's my suggestion: get a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" plywood of the same wood that your cabinets are made from, 4x8 sheet 3/4" cabinet grade plywood, same wood. Stain the plywood to match your cabinets as perfectly as possible. Locate the studs & measure very accurately. Mount the 1/4" plywood to the back wall. Measure the depth from the surface of that plywood to 3/4" from the front corner. Rip a sheet of plywood to twice this width, plus the kerf of your sawblade. Either use a dado blade on a table saw, else a router to cut your grooves into this plywood at the intervals you'd like the shelves. Width of the grooves should almost exactly match the thickness of the 3/4" plywood (which isn't exactly 3/4's inch) AFTER the grooves are cut, rip down the center & mount one half on the left & one on the right. You wait to rip it down the center to be certain that the grooves on both sides will be consistent from side to side. If your floor runs, you may have to trim a little off the bottom of one and the top of the other. From the remainder of the plywood, (and you may need a little more), cut the shelves to be as close as possible to fitting from side to side. All of the plywood should be flush with the other plywood. However, it should only come to 3/4's inch from the front edge of the wall. Apply some hardware (dozens of choices, from dowels to other fasterers) to the back of the shelf to give it further support when goes up against the 1/4" plywood.
Next, get 1x2 hardwood, again, to match the cabinets in the kitchen & stain to get as close to an exact match as possible. Face all the plywood with the 1x2. Use a pneumatic nailer to fasten it. If you are really, really careful, you can get the built in shelves to match the rest of the cabinets.
$20 more: use 4x8 3/4" furniture grade plywood for the back, instead of 1/4". Cut grooves into it too, about 1/2" depth. That way, if the wall isn't perfectly straight/plumb/square, you can still get it to line up without gaps. (unless your wall is off by more than 1/2" over 4')