Tools

[DrPizza]

Also, if you find yourself doing brakes a lot, something like this is invaluable:

http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64862...brake+tool+kit

:\ Maybe if he's working at a brake shop where he sees dozens of makes of cars. Disc brakes don't require anywhere near that number of tools to be used. And, the most common tools needed will be his sockets (often a 19mm or 21mm, iirc, on the vehicles I've owned), and a c-clamp.

OP, you need a c-clamp or some other clamp to push in the pistons on disc brakes if you do your brakes. Else, I think there's some sort of pad spreader tool; I'm not sure if that replaces the need; in dozens upon dozens of brake jobs, I've never used one. If you don't do your own brakes, I'm not sure what the heck type of work you WOULD be willing to do that requires anything more than a pair of screwdrivers and an adjustable crescent wrench. You certainly don't need a mac tools set to jack up your car and change your oil. Also, on a lot of vehicles with 4-wheel disc brakes, there's a special socket adapter you'll need to "screw in" the rear cylinders. It looks like this: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396088_200396088 I cannot imagine needing a robustly built one; I see no reason not to cheap out & just get a $5 one; it's not like you'll use it more than once per year for about 60 seconds. That kit linked to above has a lot of separate pieces rather than an "all-in-one" type adapter like this. Also, if you have to do drum brakes, you'll want a couple of the spring tools - they make a few of the tasks a heck of a lot easier & save time & frustration. Again, you're not a pro, and for what they actually accomplish, they're not 100% necessary. You don't need to spend a fortune on a top notch set; these are tools that harbor freight probably has quality sufficient to last your lifetime.

Then, lets get into doing some work on the engine; say you have a leaky valve cover. In addition to the sockets mentioned, you'll also want socket extensions. And, hmmm... well, wait until the first time you actually need one, then get yourself a decent (not crap, but certainly not top of the line, unless you're loaded) torque wrench, so you can measure how much torque you're putting on bolts when you reinstall them.

 

[manimal]

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-6830-B...im_sbs_auto_12

If you have a fleet like some of us ATGnuts do a bleeder is a nice luxury. Cant believe these things are now 130 bucks shipped.

 

[manimal]

They're... not the same.

oops wrong ones. oh well these are better

 

[Squisher]

My must-haves now:

Gear Wrench ratcheting wrenches (both flexy and angled-head styles)
Professional grade ratchet drivers
Flexy-head ratchet driver for deep-well sockets
1/2 breaker bar, for those Clarkson moments
Kroil
Self-igniting propane torch that I can connect to a 20lb propane bottle
Light-duty electric impact gun (way more useful than I ever thought it would be)
Laser-etched 6-point sockets, no 12-point BS and I like being able to easily read them
Double-locking jack stands
Aluminum, low-profile, high-lift, jack ($100 at Jegs when I got it)
Flyin' Miata Jack Adapter, never bend a pinch weld again. I comfortably lift the whole side of a car with this baby, not so much as a slight ding on the pinch weld, plus it drops right in the cup on most jacks.

That pinch weld thingy is neat. Never saw one.

OP, I know with most sockets and wrenches you'll want new, but don't forget about the used market. Some tools last forever and craigslist is your friend.


btw-a 50/50 blend of automatic trans fluid and acetone is better than all the other penetrating oils out there including Kroil and PB Blaster.

 

[JCH13]

:\ Maybe if he's working at a brake shop where he sees dozens of makes of cars. Disc brakes don't require anywhere near that number of tools to be used. And, the most common tools needed will be his sockets (often a 19mm or 21mm, iirc, on the vehicles I've owned), and a c-clamp.

OP, you need a c-clamp or some other clamp to push in the pistons on disc brakes if you do your brakes. Else, I think there's some sort of pad spreader tool; I'm not sure if that replaces the need; in dozens upon dozens of brake jobs, I've never used one. If you don't do your own brakes, I'm not sure what the heck type of work you WOULD be willing to do that requires anything more than a pair of screwdrivers and an adjustable crescent wrench. You certainly don't need a mac tools set to jack up your car and change your oil. Also, on a lot of vehicles with 4-wheel disc brakes, there's a special socket adapter you'll need to "screw in" the rear cylinders. It looks like this: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396088_200396088 I cannot imagine needing a robustly built one; I see no reason not to cheap out & just get a $5 one; it's not like you'll use it more than once per year for about 60 seconds. That kit linked to above has a lot of separate pieces rather than an "all-in-one" type adapter like this. Also, if you have to do drum brakes, you'll want a couple of the spring tools - they make a few of the tasks a heck of a lot easier & save time & frustration. Again, you're not a pro, and for what they actually accomplish, they're not 100% necessary. You don't need to spend a fortune on a top notch set; these are tools that harbor freight probably has quality sufficient to last your lifetime.

Then, lets get into doing some work on the engine; say you have a leaky valve cover. In addition to the sockets mentioned, you'll also want socket extensions. And, hmmm... well, wait until the first time you actually need one, then get yourself a decent (not crap, but certainly not top of the line, unless you're loaded) torque wrench, so you can measure how much torque you're putting on bolts when you reinstall them.

I like having everything available to me in case something comes up unexpectedly. I also like using the self-driving retractors WAY more than the cube driver. They're faster and easier by a long shot in my experience.

To each his own though. For the time being I'll keep getting that kit on loan from Advance Auto for free.

 

[compman25]

What's wrong with Craftsman? I have a bunch of their socket sets and open end wrenches and I've never had any trouble with any of them over decades of use. I sheered off a 1/4" adapter but that's pretty easy to do.

You have their older, USA made tools. They have now moved production of Craftsman tools to China. Quality and fit and finish have went down hill since Danaher moved production out of the US.

 

[thomsbrain]

Tools I use a lot for driveway jobs:

low-profile floor jack
jack stands (4)
3/8" torque wrench
full set of metric and UK sockets, plus a long socket in your lugnut size.
socket wrench
3/4" breaker bar
full set metric wrenches
oil filter socket
3/8" socket extensions
metric allen wrenches
monkey wrench
hammer
hammer-based impact driver for tough screws
mechanic gloves (cheapo)
latex gloves (for oily jobs)
screwdriver set
c-clamp (for front disc calipers)
universal caliper tool (for rear disc calipers)
hand vacuum pump (for brake bleeding)
several funnels (oil, auto transmission)
hand bottle pump (for pumping oil up into fill holes on diffs and transmissions)

I have some other stuff, too, but the above will cover most jobs, including oil changes, basic part swaps, brakes, suspension (not including bushing replacements), exhaust swaps, etc.

 

[Howard]

Tools I use a lot for driveway jobs:

low-profile floor jack
jack stands (4)
3/8" torque wrench
full set of metric and UK sockets, plus a long socket in your lugnut size.
socket wrench
3/4" breaker bar
full set metric wrenches
oil filter socket
3/8" socket extensions
metric allen wrenches
monkey wrench
hammer
hammer-based impact driver for tough screws
mechanic gloves (cheapo)
latex gloves (for oily jobs)
screwdriver set
c-clamp (for front disc calipers)
universal caliper tool (for rear disc calipers)
hand vacuum pump (for brake bleeding)
several funnels (oil, auto transmission)
hand bottle pump (for pumping oil up into fill holes on diffs and transmissions)

I have some other stuff, too, but the above will cover most jobs, including oil changes, basic part swaps, brakes, suspension (not including bushing replacements), exhaust swaps, etc.

where are the locking pliers

 

[Grouchyoldguy]

PB Blaster or Kroil

a 2ft - 3ft length of pipe to slip over wrenches - extra torgue ftw.

Some sheets of old cardboard to lie on. I throw a sheet under the car while Im working on it. Its soft enough to lie on, doenst hurt as bad if you bang your elbow/knees on the ground, soaks up oil and water spills, cheap, disposable, and actually works as a really good insulator from cold concrete.

dont cheap out on ratchet sets. I bought a cheap set last year and found that they didnt fit perfectly and were often times rounding the nuts/bolts. This past year I bought "Gear Wrench" brand and they are awesome, fit snuggly, and never had a problem with rounding since.

Also, more of a luxury, ratchet wrenches are super cool. Expensive but, the savings is in the flesh from your knuckles.

Instead of old cardboard check out back of the local carpet stores for used/remnants. Great to lay on etc. Roll up and store then throw away when thrashed. Pro tip: Check the back for pet stains if you grab used.

 

[Raizinman]

What's wrong with Craftsman? I have a bunch of their socket sets and open end wrenches and I've never had any trouble with any of them over decades of use. I sheered off a 1/4" adapter but that's pretty easy to do.

There are lots of problems with Craftsman tools, here are my biggest gripes:

1) The sides of their wrenchs have raised sections. If you push real hard the raised section can easily cut your hand. SnapOn and Matco have smooth wrenches.

2) Craftsman does not have the extra long or specialized wrenches like SnapOn or Matco.

3) Craftsman does not carry the extensive line of specialized tools like SnapOn or Matco.

4) Replacement bits and parts or such often require a 1 week or more wait time from Craftsman as they often are out of stock. SnapOn or Matco most always have replacement parts in stock.

5) I find reading the socket size (on the older Craftsman sockets) very difficult. Requiring the use of decals or such on the socket. SnapOn or Matco have easier to read socket sizes.

 

[alkemyst]

I have never gone in to a Sears store for a replacement tool and told I'd need a week or more to get it. They have always had the tool I wanted in stock.

The problem I have found and many other tool companies do this, is some of the really nice tools like my non-ratcheting 8 way offset screwdriver get replaced with cheaper ones.

Craftsman Professional wrenchs have smooth sides.

Your points 2 & 3 require catalog orders and Sears does indeed make extra-long and specialized tools. The problem is if you indeed need these levels in tools, chances are Snap On or Mac will be a better fit as you will be working out of a shop and have access to the truck bringing you whatever you break.

Point 5 was also a factor in all old sockets. Sears and the others have upgraded their markings and make them easier to read. In reality, in a proper tool box; one would be able to know what they were grabbing anyway without having to read them so hard.

 

[BUTCH1]

For budget, I wouldn't look lower than Cobalt or Craftsman. I would never use something purchased from Harbor Freight. I use Snap-On for nearly everything.

Snap-on is great quality for sure but for the weekend alternator-swap or brake job type of deal that level of quality means much less amount of tool for the $$ can be the result. Don't get me wrong, if your gonna make your living using tools get the best you can possibly afford but for light usage Snap-on quality is overkill..

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

Just a heads up but the full polish gearwrench reversible 8 PC metric or sae is on sale for $34 a set at Sears.

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

Also use promo code SAVEONTOOLS for $10 off $75 $15 off $100

 

[Gillbot]

^^ word. harbor freight isnt that great for hand tools (well, theyre great for spare hand tools that you need in a pinch), but for many things that store is awesome. jack stands would be one of them. their air tools arent horrible either, especially when you only need to use them once and a while.

The Pittsburgh brand at harbor freight is good for the shadetree guy IMHO. Plus, they are easy to replace, just take em in and exchange it.

 

[thomsbrain]

where are the locking pliers

Doh! Good call.
Also PB Blaster, WD-40, silicone grease, and brake cleaner.

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

I bought a metric and sae set of gearwrench. I also picked up a craftsman punch set for $65 total plus tax after coupon code. Is $30 a set a good price for these things? Also can I break nuts loose with the ratchet end without screwing them up?

 

[Howard]

Doh! Good call.
Also PB Blaster, WD-40, silicone grease, and brake cleaner.

Also:

http://www.saftlok.com/safteze/antiseiz/nickel.htm I LOVE this stuff
http://www.saftlok.com/safteze/antiseiz/non-metallic.htm (for aesthetic applications and around the house)

 

[JCH13]

I bought a metric and sae set of gearwrench. I also picked up a craftsman punch set for $65 total plus tax after coupon code. Is $30 a set a good price for these things? Also can I break nuts loose with the ratchet end without screwing them up?

$30/set is pretty good, but there are 5-6 piece sets up to ~10+ piece sets, so it really depends on which one you're getting. I paid $40/set for the 8-9 piece ones from Gearwrench.

Both have lifetime warranties, so breaking stuff loose isn't usually an issue. I've used cheater bars on my Gearwrench ones before, and a hammer once or twice when I've really needed to. A socket and breaker bar is still the way to go when cracking really stubborn ones though.

 

[chusteczka]

Since you asked about automotive tools, I have co-developed an Automotive Oil Drain Kit that provides a replacement drain plug with a correspondingly interlocking driver that allows a person to cleanly remove the engine oil drain plug to drain the oil without spilling any on their hands.

This is the first time I have gone public with this kit and I would like to think this kit would make a nice gift.

http://oildrainkit.com/


Drain Plug Sizes Available:

• 1/2"-20
• M12-1.25
• M12-1.75
• M14-1.50

Currently, the sizes are limited to the most common for cars since a manufacturing order for each size requires a $4,500 investment as a minimum order.

 

[compman25]

Since you asked about automotive tools, I have co-developed an Automotive Oil Drain Kit that provides a replacement drain plug with a correspondingly interlocking driver that allows a person to cleanly remove the engine oil drain plug to drain the oil without spilling any on their hands.

This is the first time I have gone public with this kit and I would like to think this kit would make a nice gift.

http://oildrainkit.com/


Drain Plug Sizes Available:

• 1/2"-20
• M12-1.25
• M12-1.75
• M14-1.50

Currently, the sizes are limited to the most common for cars since a manufacturing order for each size requires a $4,500 investment as a minimum order.

That's pretty cool. One question though, why didn't you just use a 3/8 square drive so someone could just buy the drain plug from you and use their own tools?

 

[chusteczka]

That's pretty cool. One question though, why didn't you just use a 3/8 square drive so someone could just buy the drain plug from you and use their own tools?

Thanks. We did consider a female socket recess of various geometric shapes such as Torx and a square to receive a bit drive head. We first needed an interlocking mechanism for a secure connection. This removed things like screwdrivers, Torx heads, and Allen keys(wrenches).

We chose the circular threads mostly for cost purposes according to decreased machining difficulty. Cutting reversed threads on the end of a screwdriver is simple and has a lower cost, while providing a fully secured interlocking mechanism.

It is comparatively much easier to drill a circular recess with reverse threads inside the plug head than to machine a precise square. With threads, the recess in the plug head can be simply machined with a drill press, lowering machining costs by increasing efficiency.

Additionally, cutting a dimple on each inner wall of a square-shaped recess in the drain plug head to receive a spring-loaded ball is relatively difficult to machine and would further increase the manufacturing costs of the plug.

Without the receiving dimple, the connection would not be interlocked, instead the connection would rely on the friction of the spring-loaded ball against a flat surface. This would then be no different from using a socket with an internal spring-loaded ball to grip around the outer edges of a standard plug head. The plug could still accidentally slip out.

EDIT:
We estimated that an internally-cut square shape as a recess in the head of the drain plug would at least double the manufacturing costs of the plug since a standard rotation based machining process could not be used efficiently.

EDIT2:
We recognize the Fumoto Drain Valve or Quick Oil Drain Valve as our immediate competition but that valve has several disadvantages.

• Being that it screws into the drain hole, it decreases the cross-sectional flow area by 60% or more, thus significantly decreasing flow rate;
• The decreased flow rate significantly increases the oil drain time;
• The decreased flow rate further creates a trickle effect at the end of the oil flow that allows any particles in the oil to come to rest in the drain pan and not be carried out with the oil;
• The valve extends from the hole by 1.5" to 2";
• The valve extends below the drain pan about .5" to 1", potentially allowing contact with obstacles that may be in the road that may result in damage to the drain pan.

EDIT3:
I would like to add that one of the unexpected advantages of our plug and driver allows oil to be changed without lifting the front end of the car. I have changed the oil in my car a few times now without needing to raise my car. It can be done by feel and an extended arm if a person knows where to find the plug.

EDIT4:
To further answer your question, in a socket the 3/8" internal square recess is cut through the metal to the open area on the inside of the socket. The open area behind allows for more efficient and lower cost machining of the square-shaped fitting. A drain plug head does not have this open area on the reverse side and would be difficult to cut. Also, sockets are more expensive, being in a price range of $3.50 - $6.00. A drain plug needs to be machined for much less. The cost of machining a square recess into the drain plug head is prohibitively expensive.

 

[jupiter57]

btw-a 50/50 blend of automatic trans fluid and acetone is better than all the other penetrating oils out there including Kroil and PB Blaster.

Hmmm, I gotta try this.
I ALWAYS have Acetone on hand, Trans fluid too.
At $7.00 a can, PB Blaster gets expensive fast here on the farm.
(Doubly so when Son-In-Laws use a whole can to get one tight nut off! LOL)

 

[Howard]

Thanks. We did consider ...

Is the torque from the screwdriver sufficient to overpower a "healthy" tightening from the wrench? I have my doubts as to whether a simple screwdriver can overcome a gutenteit-ed drain plug.

 

[chusteczka]

Is the torque from the screwdriver sufficient to overpower a "healthy" tightening from the wrench? I have my doubts as to whether a simple screwdriver can overcome a gutenteit-ed drain plug.

No, the screwdriver is not meant to torque the plug. The driver securely connects with the plug and allows for easy spinning/threading, removal, and re-insertion. A flare nut wrench is provided for the torque involved in tightening and loosening.

A side advantage of the flare nut wrench is that it prevents over-torquing the plug when tightening.

An alternative design possibility was to use an Allen key with either a C-ring or a threaded tip. The "L" portion of the Allen key would allow for torquing without a flare wrench. Between the two possibilities, we liked the ease of use and familiarity provided by the screwdriver handle over an aesthetically ugly Allen key.