Trouble installing a GFCI outlet

agnitrate

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
3,761
1
0
I was trying to install a GFCI outlet for my mom today in her kitchen since she is refinishing her walls and wants the outlets to match the new wall color. I wanted to remove the old outlet and upgrade her to a new GFCI to help protect against shorts and all of that good stuff.

When I opened the old outlet up I found a confusing wiring sitaution. Since I'm not an electrician by any means, I cannot say whether this is common or if this is merely a sign that the house was built 45 years ago and standards weren't as high back then.

Initial Wiring

[edit]
The green wires are actually white in real life, but they wouldn't show up too well in a diagram . The red wire is actually red and is the hot wire for this outlet and the one below it apparently.
[/edit]

Inside the box, I found two hot wires and two white neutral connections. One of the hot wires simply passes through the box to another receptacle while the two neutral connections were connected to the two neutral connections on the outlet.

Before shutting off the power, I checked both connections on the outlet to make sure it was safe. It was a nice surprise to find out when I disconnected one of the grounds that it was sparking against the terminal. The other ground was connected to a circuit that was controlled by another breaker.

Is it normal for two circuits on different breakers to share a similar ground like that? It seems sort of odd. Also, instead of the wires being spliced together with pigtails attaching to the outlet, the insulation was merely stripped in the middle of the wire and wrapped around the appropriate connection. The only wire in which this was not the case was the neutral wire attached to the other receptacle which was an end run to this circuit as you can see in my diagram.

I attempted to wire the new GFCI, but it doesn't seem appropriate for this wiring scheme. You usually have four (or six if you have ground) wires, two for the line and two for the load. I decided to try and wire up the outlet using the obvious line wires and attaching the phantom neutral to the load neutral. Here's a diagram showing all of the wires to hopefully illustrate this craziness.

My GFCI Wiring

This wiring provides current to both the GFCI outlet and the one below it (where the red wire goes to), but the other circuit isn't working. The reset button on the GFCI pops as soon as the power comes on and there's no way to push it back in. I'd imagine this is because the GFCI is working and it trips because it detects there's a difference in potential between the load hot and neutral wires. Why doesn't it cut off power to the entire receptacle then?

I was hoping somebody here might tell me if this is just a case or a horrible wiring design in the 60's gone wrong, me simply wiring the thing incorrectly, or a little of both.

My mom can't really afford an electrician to come out and re-wire this if the wiring is just wack-o, so I guess I just need to know if it's the wiring and I should stick a regular outlet back on there or if I messed up and just need to be smacked and redo it. I'd appreciate any comments any of you can provide. Thanks in advance.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
20,731
5,393
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I don't understand your drawing, is the green the ground? Aside from that I can tell you the ground should NEVER be sparking. The only time there should be current in the ground is if something has shorted out, if thats the case, it needs to be fixed. You also mentioned that one of the grounds was connected to a circuit controlled by another breaker, no ground is ever connected to a breaker. Every ground in the house should be connected together.

Just reread what you posted. And I have to admit I don't understand what you have. Could you post a pic? Or make a drawing using black white and green as the wire colors?
 

EyeMWing

Banned
Jun 13, 2003
15,670
1
0
As with every electrical outlet wiring situation ever posted on ATOT, that whole circuit is FUBAR and needs to come completely out and be completely replaced.
 

agnitrate

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
3,761
1
0
Originally posted by: Greenman
I don't understand your drawing, is the green the ground? Aside from that I can tell you the ground should NEVER be sparking. The only time there should be current in the ground is if something has shorted out, if thats the case, it needs to be fixed. You also mentioned that one of the grounds was connected to a circuit controlled by another breaker, no ground is ever connected to a breaker. Every ground in the house should be connected together.

Sorry for the confusion. Yes, the green is ground since I couldn't get white to show up with just a black border.

The neutral connection from the circuit to the left of this box (the green wire coming from the left in my diagram) was sparking on the outlet's neutral. I thought this was because it was connected to a hot wire elsewhere and the outlet I was working on provided a complete circuit once it touched the neutral part of the outlet that runs down to the neutral bus. Correct me if my wiring skills aren't up to snuff, that's one of the things I'm trying to learn about by doing this.

What I meant when I said the grounds were controlled by another breaker, I meant to ask if it was common for two neutral wires on two different circuits to be linked together. I understand that all of the neutral wires should be eventually linked to the neutral bus down at my electrical box. I just didn't know if it was a common situation and it seems sort of odd for the two circuits to be 'attached' like that.
 

agnitrate

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
3,761
1
0
Originally posted by: Pepsi90919
grounds + neutrals aren't connected to circuit breakers

Sorry, I clarified my wording. I meant is it normal for their grounds to be wired together like that.
 

EyeMWing

Banned
Jun 13, 2003
15,670
1
0
Originally posted by: agnitrate
Originally posted by: Greenman
I don't understand your drawing, is the green the ground? Aside from that I can tell you the ground should NEVER be sparking. The only time there should be current in the ground is if something has shorted out, if thats the case, it needs to be fixed. You also mentioned that one of the grounds was connected to a circuit controlled by another breaker, no ground is ever connected to a breaker. Every ground in the house should be connected together.

Sorry for the confusion. Yes, the green is ground since I couldn't get white to show up with just a black border.

The neutral connection from the circuit to the left of this box (the green wire coming from the left in my diagram) was sparking on the outlet's neutral. I thought this was because it was connected to a hot wire elsewhere and the outlet I was working on provided a complete circuit once it touched the neutral part of the outlet that runs down to the neutral bus. Correct me if my wiring skills aren't up to snuff, that's one of the things I'm trying to learn about by doing this.

What I meant when I said the grounds were controlled by another breaker, I meant to ask if it was common for two neutral wires on two different circuits to be linked together. I understand that all of the neutral wires should be eventually linked to the neutral bus down at my electrical box. I just didn't know if it was a common situation and it seems sort of odd for the two circuits to be 'attached' like that.

Electrically speaking, it doesn't make a difference if the neutrals are linked in the walls or at the bus bar. But...... In practice, that's bad form and fairly dangerous. Most likely what this indicates is that one of circuits doesn't actually connect back to the neutral bus on it's own.
 

Ly2n

Senior member
Dec 26, 2001
345
0
0
To start with you need 3 wires to hook up a GFCI. A hot, a neutral and a ground. Without a separate ground it can't work. Now, as to how you have a hot neutral, I would suspect a short somewhere. Since that breaker was off, the short can't be in that circuit. The brute force way to find it would be to hook up a light or a meter to the wire and turn off breakers until the wire goes dead. That would tell you the circuit that has the short. Then check all of the wireing in that circuit. Good luck Lynn
 

agnitrate

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
3,761
1
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So does this mean that I won't be able to use the GFCI at this box because of this odd scheme or did I wire it incorrectly?
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
20,731
5,393
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Originally posted by: agnitrate
Originally posted by: Greenman
I don't understand your drawing, is the green the ground? Aside from that I can tell you the ground should NEVER be sparking. The only time there should be current in the ground is if something has shorted out, if thats the case, it needs to be fixed. You also mentioned that one of the grounds was connected to a circuit controlled by another breaker, no ground is ever connected to a breaker. Every ground in the house should be connected together.

Sorry for the confusion. Yes, the green is ground since I couldn't get white to show up with just a black border.

The neutral connection from the circuit to the left of this box (the green wire coming from the left in my diagram) was sparking on the outlet's neutral. I thought this was because it was connected to a hot wire elsewhere and the outlet I was working on provided a complete circuit once it touched the neutral part of the outlet that runs down to the neutral bus. Correct me if my wiring skills aren't up to snuff, that's one of the things I'm trying to learn about by doing this.

What I meant when I said the grounds were controlled by another breaker, I meant to ask if it was common for two neutral wires on two different circuits to be linked together. I understand that all of the neutral wires should be eventually linked to the neutral bus down at my electrical box. I just didn't know if it was a common situation and it seems sort of odd for the two circuits to be 'attached' like that.

I think I understand now. The neutral wire from the other outlet could very well be sparking if that circut was under load. And yes, it's ok for two circuits to share a neutral, it's common in kitchens. Because the two circuits are out of phase, there is never an excess load on the netural. The issue with that sort of circuit is that a gfi will never work on it, it will detect the load inbalance and trip.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
20,731
5,393
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Originally posted by: Ly2n
To start with you need 3 wires to hook up a GFCI. A hot, a neutral and a ground. Without a separate ground it can't work. Now, as to how you have a hot neutral, I would suspect a short somewhere. Since that breaker was off, the short can't be in that circuit. The brute force way to find it would be to hook up a light or a meter to the wire and turn off breakers until the wire goes dead. That would tell you the circuit that has the short. Then check all of the wireing in that circuit. Good luck Lynn

I think a GFI will work without a ground. Around here, when I'm working on an old house that has no ground, the inspectors want all the outlets replaced with GFI's. According to the county building dept, the gfi will dectect a fault without a ground. I've never tested it, but they claim it's so.
 

Iron Woode

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 10, 1999
30,964
12,472
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Originally posted by: agnitrate
I was trying to install a GFCI outlet for my mom today in her kitchen since she is refinishing her walls and wants the outlets to match the new wall color. I wanted to remove the old outlet and upgrade her to a new GFCI to help protect against shorts and all of that good stuff.

When I opened the old outlet up I found a confusing wiring sitaution. Since I'm not an electrician by any means, I cannot say whether this is common or if this is merely a sign that the house was built 45 years ago and standards weren't as high back then.

Initial Wiring

[edit]
The green wires are actually white in real life, but they wouldn't show up too well in a diagram . The red wire is actually red and is the hot wire for this outlet and the one below it apparently.
[/edit]

Inside the box, I found two hot wires and two white neutral connections. One of the hot wires simply passes through the box to another receptacle while the two neutral connections were connected to the two neutral connections on the outlet.

Before shutting off the power, I checked both connections on the outlet to make sure it was safe. It was a nice surprise to find out when I disconnected one of the grounds that it was sparking against the terminal. The other ground was connected to a circuit that was controlled by another breaker.

Is it normal for two circuits on different breakers to share a similar ground like that? It seems sort of odd. Also, instead of the wires being spliced together with pigtails attaching to the outlet, the insulation was merely stripped in the middle of the wire and wrapped around the appropriate connection. The only wire in which this was not the case was the neutral wire attached to the other receptacle which was an end run to this circuit as you can see in my diagram.

I attempted to wire the new GFCI, but it doesn't seem appropriate for this wiring scheme. You usually have four (or six if you have ground) wires, two for the line and two for the load. I decided to try and wire up the outlet using the obvious line wires and attaching the phantom neutral to the load neutral. Here's a diagram showing all of the wires to hopefully illustrate this craziness.

My GFCI Wiring

This wiring provides current to both the GFCI outlet and the one below it (where the red wire goes to), but the other circuit isn't working. The reset button on the GFCI pops as soon as the power comes on and there's no way to push it back in. I'd imagine this is because the GFCI is working and it trips because it detects there's a difference in potential between the load hot and neutral wires. Why doesn't it cut off power to the entire receptacle then?

I was hoping somebody here might tell me if this is just a case or a horrible wiring design in the 60's gone wrong, me simply wiring the thing incorrectly, or a little of both.

My mom can't really afford an electrician to come out and re-wire this if the wiring is just wack-o, so I guess I just need to know if it's the wiring and I should stick a regular outlet back on there or if I messed up and just need to be smacked and redo it. I'd appreciate any comments any of you can provide. Thanks in advance.
#1 Welcome to the split receptacle. In kitchens it gives you the ability to plug 2 things in that could potentially blow the fuse (trip breaker) by having each plug with its own fuse or breaker (usually 15 amp).


 

AlienCraft

Lifer
Nov 23, 2002
10,539
0
0
Originally posted by: agnitrate

What I meant when I said the grounds were controlled by another breaker, I meant to ask if it was common for two neutral wires on two different circuits to be linked together. I understand that all of the neutral wires should be eventually linked to the neutral bus down at my electrical box. I just didn't know if it was a common situation and it seems sort of odd for the two circuits to be 'attached' like that.
Yes Neutrals are often tied together. As are grounds.

Some electricians used the multiple tie points to connect the through conductors in days gone by. Nowdays, you are more likely to find pigtails so that connections downstream do not lose V+ or Vo if the connector fails. Yes, sometimes the duplex outlets fail.
 

agnitrate

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
3,761
1
0
Well, I guess I'll be getting a regular outlet to replace the GFCI in this case then. Good to know that the wiring isn't potentially dangerous though. Thanks for the help guys!
 

AlienCraft

Lifer
Nov 23, 2002
10,539
0
0
Originally posted by: Iron Woode
#1 Welcome to the split receptacle. In kitchens it gives you the ability to plug 2 things in that could potentially blow the fuse (trip breaker) by having each plug with its own fuse or breaker (usually 15 amp).

LIke a Refigerator and a Microwave, which in new construction require seperate circuits.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
20,731
5,393
136
The OP doesn't have a split receptacle, that would have two hots and one neutral, with the side tab on the outle removed. It appears that he has a split circuit with a shared neutral.
 

OrganizedChaos

Diamond Member
Apr 21, 2002
4,525
0
0
Originally posted by: Greenman
Originally posted by: Ly2n
To start with you need 3 wires to hook up a GFCI. A hot, a neutral and a ground. Without a separate ground it can't work. Now, as to how you have a hot neutral, I would suspect a short somewhere. Since that breaker was off, the short can't be in that circuit. The brute force way to find it would be to hook up a light or a meter to the wire and turn off breakers until the wire goes dead. That would tell you the circuit that has the short. Then check all of the wireing in that circuit. Good luck Lynn

I think a GFI will work without a ground. Around here, when I'm working on an old house that has no ground, the inspectors want all the outlets replaced with GFI's. According to the county building dept, the gfi will dectect a fault without a ground. I've never tested it, but they claim it's so.

i see no reason why it should require a ground to work.
 
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