**Update, now with Mainboard comparision** All about P4 1.6a Northwood here!

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MesBoogie

Senior member
Jan 5, 2001
205
0
0
I'm also on the fence with the P4B266. I was told by a coworker who bought this board about something that concerns me. He said that if you install the s/pdif connector, you will lose access to a PCI slot. True? Also, and more importantly, he said that by installing the USB 2.0 module that you would lose another PCI slot. True?

I've never built a computer. I was basing my choice on the P4B266 because on the onboard capabilities. If I'm going to lose two slots anyway, I can reuse my current sound card and USB 2.0 cards (instead of leaving them in my old machine). Would the P4B266-C make more sense?

Thanks!
-mb
 

rgowen

Member
Feb 16, 2002
124
0
0
The reason for PCI slot loss when using those 2 items is that they are Brackets that need to be screwed to the back of you case like all of the PCI devices. The Board has 6 PCI slots so losing 2 should not be that big of a deal. You will lose the first PCI slot anyways because of your AGP card, so you can place one of the brackets there and it is best not to use the last PCI slot because it shares with the 5th slot so just place the other bracket there and use the middle 4 PCI slots.
 

RobK

Senior member
Oct 10, 1999
319
0
0
Does anyone know where I can get the SPDIF connector for this board? No one has it at all around here (sacramento). I'll be in Silicon Valley next week, so i'd be willing to pick it up even if someone knows a store...
PM me if you've got info!
thanx
 

y2kc

Platinum Member
Sep 2, 2000
2,547
0
76
Got my $19.00 sunflower/arctic silver 3 today. @ first there appeared to be no difference at all in temps but I'm starting to see a bit of a difference, my idle temp is down to about 34C. It was 34.50 in a cold room and usually runs a couple of degrees higher once the ambient temp rises (as they always do after I've been down here awhile). under a load, my temps are still hovering around 40C. The fan doesn't appear to be much louder than the stock HSF so I'm glad about that. Other than that I'm running stable @ 2.2 for several days now. I think I'm going to push for 2.3. my voltage is 14.5 (.5v under the default) so I'm going to push this puppy a little bit more and see how she goes.
 

Slacker

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 1999
8,623
33
91
Stability update, My 1.6a has been running 24/7 at 2320mhz for four days now, ran prime95 overnight, running Genome@home continuously, playing Q3 Norton scanning and Genome cracking simultaneously, looping 3dmark, and anything else I can think of and it wont crash or lock, absolutely no problems at all, no problems with usb and I use a lot of usb stuff, scanner, printer, gamepad, mouse, keyboard, speakers (DSS80's) everything is working great
 

MesBoogie

Senior member
Jan 5, 2001
205
0
0
rgowen - thanks for the info on the slots.

Now, what to do?!?

I'm trying to keep this at a budget level. Let me know what you (all of you) think about this for a setup. I've put this in my cart at newegg, mwave, & crucial:

Newegg
Enermax 4252 Case w/300W PS & 3 Fans
ATI AIW Radeon 7500
Teac Floppy
Logitech Optical Mouse
Keytronics Keyboard
Lite-On 16X DVD

Mwave
P4 1.6a
ASUS P4B266

Crucial
512MB DDR PC2100 RAM


Existing
WD 100GB 7200 RPM Hard Drive
Plextor 12/10/32 CDRW
19" Gateway Monitor
Harman/Kardon 595 speakers
XP Pro

My big hangup right now is that I know that I will replace the onboard sound soon (within a month or two) with a Creative Audigy Platinum. I already have an Adaptec USB 2.0 card that can be reused. I could drop down to the P4B266-C, reuse my USB 2.0 card, and go ahead and buy the Audigy now. Is the difference that great between the two ASUS boards.

Thanks for looking over my proposed setup. My plan is to order this weekend.

-mb











 

manko

Golden Member
May 27, 2001
1,846
1
0
MesBoogie:

Definitely go with the -C. People are having the same overclocking results with those. Since you already have a USB2 card and want to get an Audigy, there's no reason at all to go with anything but the -C. (In fact, it would be a bit of a waste.)
 

MesBoogie

Senior member
Jan 5, 2001
205
0
0
manko - I think you're probably right. Since I've got the USB card anyway (and my wife doesn't need it in this one once I build the new one), it does make sense to go -C. I suppose I should bite the bullet and order the Audigy now. If I don't, I won't have sound for a while.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I can order the MB and processor from newegg if I get the -C (they don't have the non -C). I don't know that the Malaysia chip is that much different than the Costa Rica chip that most folks are getting from newegg. This will save a few bucks on shipping also.

-mb
 

manko

Golden Member
May 27, 2001
1,846
1
0
MesBoogie, you also might want to check out the Hot Deals forum. There's a Gateway $50 off $200 coupon and they have some components you might like to get there, like the Radeon AIW, Audigy and some decent cases (and other stuff). Their basic prices are a bit more than Newegg, but if you buy a handful of components, then subtract $50, it could be a better deal. There is also free shipping on orders over $199. (Coupon codes are on sites like bens bargains .net or tech bargains):

Radeon AIW 7500 (for example)

Sound Cards
 

l31itz

Senior member
Mar 12, 2001
277
0
0
Slacker,

Can you give us specs on your setup? What type of RAM and Mobo in particular.

Congrats on a very stable system!!
 

kevman

Diamond Member
Apr 20, 2001
3,548
1
81
so what does the S/PDIF connect do? Do I need a special set of speakers to use it? Does it have to work with the onboard sound or something?
 

manko

Golden Member
May 27, 2001
1,846
1
0


<< so what does the S/PDIF connect do? Do I need a special set of speakers to use it? Does it have to work with the onboard sound or something? >>

It's an optical audio out, most often used when playing a DVD. It can send the raw Dolby Digital or DTS out to a home theater amplifier (with DTS/DD decoder of course), then to your speaker system. It's a common output on most stand alone DVD players. If you don't have DTS/Dolby compatible amplifier, it's not much use.
 

manko

Golden Member
May 27, 2001
1,846
1
0


<< THanks, so I can use it without the onboard sound right? >>

No, it's a function of the onboard sound, so you would have the enable to onboard sound (in the bios) to use it. But you don't need to use it to hear sound with normal speakers (you can use onboard sound without using the S/PDIF). Or, if you have a separate sound card that has an S/PDIF out, you could use that instead. I'm not sure if you could use both a separate sound card and just the S/PDIF out from the onboard chip...there might be a conflict.

Basically, you're not going to need it unless you have a home theater setup and you want plug your computer into it. For most 5.1 or surround sound computer speaker setups, you wouldn't use it (the computer would decode the DTS/Dolby Digital in software).
 

PlatinumGold

Lifer
Aug 11, 2000
23,168
0
71
well

i have the MSI Ultra 645 board.

currently have my 1.6a @2240. i've had it as high as 150 fsb but probably will keep it at 140, cause i don't like messing w/ the voltage.

msi allows voltage alterations up to 1.675 or so.

i think my ram is limiting me. it's 2 sticks of corsair 2400. i bought it about 6 months ago. so it's probably not the fastest ram here.
 

Syclone1

Junior Member
Feb 8, 2002
6
0
0
On the USB issue:
I have a 1.6a/P4B266-C Mb and I am using a USB Trackball Explorer (laser)

When I plug it in to the USB ports directly the system will hang at the MB title screen, if I wait and plug it in after the Windows 98 screen pops up then it boots fine. This is the same for 133 & 140 FSB.

When I instead use my powered 4-port USB hub (with trackball/printer/IR plugged in) I am able to boot no problem at both FSB speeds- with the hub plugged in all the time. - nothing else plugged directly into the computer usb ports, but the hub...

-Syclone
 

iahk

Senior member
Jan 19, 2002
707
0
76
Good stuff syclone. I have a wireless intellimouse explorer and if I try to boot at high fsb speeds, it freezes at the bios screen. I didn't even think of plugging it into my USB hub.

At 133, it freezes 5-7sec then it boots fine. Anything higher, it will randomly stay frozen or freeze for 8-10sec then boot.

So if I want to test my best overclocking speeds, I gotta unplug all USB devices and use my old ps2 mouse.

I'll try this USB Hub solution to see if it works. Thanks for the idea!

On another note, my 100gb WD HD died yesterday after some overclocking tests. :frown: Can a HD die of overclocking?! First time this has ever happened. The only off thing that I noticed when this happened was that I had my voltage at 1.600. Then I rebooted and it took a while to read my 20gb WD (primary master) and 100gb WD (primary slave). BIOS will identify the HD but nothing can access it. Windows can't find it either.
 

kevman

Diamond Member
Apr 20, 2001
3,548
1
81


<< Good stuff syclone. I have a wireless intellimouse explorer and if I try to boot at high fsb speeds, it freezes at the bios screen. I didn't even think of plugging it into my USB hub.

At 133, it freezes 5-7sec then it boots fine. Anything higher, it will randomly stay frozen or freeze for 8-10sec then boot.

So if I want to test my best overclocking speeds, I gotta unplug all USB devices and use my old ps2 mouse.

I'll try this USB Hub solution to see if it works. Thanks for the idea!

On another note, my 100gb WD HD died yesterday after some overclocking tests. :frown: Can a HD die of overclocking?! First time this has ever happened. The only off thing that I noticed when this happened was that I had my voltage at 1.600. Then I rebooted and it took a while to read my 20gb WD (primary master) and 100gb WD (primary slave). BIOS will identify the HD but nothing can access it. Windows can't find it either.
>>



Does it Let you fdisk and reuse it? can you get a prompt on it at least? sorry to hear that man, I hope it wasn't do to oc'ing.
 

Underclocked

Platinum Member
Oct 9, 1999
2,041
0
76
Two of these "WD WESTERN DIGITAL EIDE HARD DRIVE 30GB 7200RPM MODEL # WD300BB " failed within 12 hours of installation in a P4B266 system. No overclocking involved. Replacing with Seagate Barracudas, hope they do better.
 

manko

Golden Member
May 27, 2001
1,846
1
0
I got a couple 60GB 5400rpm WD drives from Hot Deals a few months ago. One of them was making horrible scratching noises within a few days of installation (on an old, slow system). I returned it for a refund. The second one is still going strong after 2 or 3 months, so hopefully I'll get a few good years out of it.

I guess some drives are just bad, or get damaged during shipment. Of course I haven't ever had any other drives go bad on me(Seagate, IBM, Maxtor).
 

sigmatic

Member
May 3, 2000
91
0
0
Well, I've experimented quite a bit over the last few days, and this is what I got so far. First of all, my intent was to push the CPU as far as I could with no unusual cooling methods or voltage increases whatsoever. I regret to say, results were less than impressive based on what I've seen here. That's right, some of us are less fortunate in our results than others, and granted I am still happy with my purchase, it's always a bit frustrating to see others get more out of their chips than I do. Ah, such is life.

- I first booted at default settings and speed to make sure that Windows 2000 would finish updating without problems. Last time I tried to overclock a chip right away, and it wasn't very stable -- which screwed up Windows completely. I had to reinstall it.

- I tried, just out of curiosity, to go straight to 133 MHz FSB at first. I figured it was worth a shot. It booted properly, and I got excited for 10 minutes. Had United Devices running, Winamp, mIRC, a couple of IE windows, and an explorer window. Then came the dreaded blue screen.

- I bumped the speed down to 110 MHz FSB. It ran fine for 12 hours, 4 hours of intense gaming. I went straight to 115 MHz, no problems there either. So I followed with 120 MHz, 125 MHz, and all of that worked fine. I hit 130 MHz. It worked great for a day, but oddly enough, AIM crashed. Don't ask me why Warcraft III and RTCW didn't crash, but AIM did. It was the first time I've seen AIM crash, for the record. Well, thinking it was a random accident, I decided to try my hand at 133 MHz FSB again. But the same thing happened. The computer ran fine for about 10 minutes, then booya: BSOD.

- Out of curiosity, I bumped the voltage .025v, and booted Windows at 133MHz FSB again. It worked fine, except something odd happened: mIRC closed, on two separate occasions, with absolutely no warning. Then the whole lower section (the taskbar and start button area) closed, and restarted. I was a bit worried by those strange events, so I restarted the computer, lowered the FSB to 128 MHz, and the voltage to default 1.5v.

I find it rather frustrating that I can go as far as 130 MHz with (apparently but not definitely) no problems, but 133 is just too much. 48 MHz would be a lot back in the day, but it just seems like a trivial amount for a chip capable of hitting 2 GHz. I guess I have much to learn about overclocking. I might get better cooling methods, but I'm not sure I want to bother. Quite frankly, getting a 452 MHz overclock (it's at 128.27 MHz FSB apparently) is impressive enough for me. Just a little disappointing that it's not the guaranteed 2.1+ GHz overclock that some people make it out to be.

I'm sure I'm not the only one out there so I thought it was only fair to warn those that expect to boot their new P4's at 133MHz FSB out of the box. I certainly do wish that all of you have better luck than I, however. Suggestions are, of course, quite welcome.
 

RalfHutter

Diamond Member
Dec 29, 2000
3,202
0
76
banbhao-PC 2700 RAM will work fine on your Asus board. Just run your FSB high enough and set your divider to 3:4 so you can take advantage of your faster RAM. Use the "Turbo1" setting also. This will lock your PCI/AGP at near stcok speeds so you won't have any problems due to the high FSB.

I'm using the Kingmax PC2700 5ns RAM and it's working great for me (1.8A, P4B266, 2 x 256Kingmax, FSB @ 128, RAM at 340Mhz).

Most people say to stay away from the OCZ RAM. Do a search for "OCZ" in the forums and think twice before you buy it. I'd recommend the Kingmax.
 
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