So what's the difference in a SSHD and having a HDD and SSD?
An SSHD has some flash it sets aside for commonly-used or small-access blocks, it's very small, and shares IO with the 'pure' HDD part. They are much more expensive than the $10 more they should be, for so little flash, too.
With the SSD and HDD, everything but 'slow' data (IE, music, movies, documents, games that aren't disk-limited) goes on the fast RAID-0-like flash array in the SSD. Access to the HDD is not in competition with it. So, where you would often have several HDD accesses to open a file, you just get the one HDD access to open the file (disclaimer: gross simplification), and all the program loading, and settings loading, that takes some seconds normally, all comes off the SSD, which is really fast at it. Since so little of the IO that might slow you down normally is happening on the HDD, caching for the HDD generally won't net you much, if anything.
IoW, with an HDD and SSD, it's not like having a piece of data, or whole program, on the HDD, means using it slows everything down to the same speed as if you only had an HDD.
If I am playing games like Payday 2, GTA IV, Team Fortress, and idk what I play a lot of stuff. I have a lot of games off steam and I have a lot of games off of Big Fish, would it be worth trying to upgrade my 6300 to a 8320 or would that make no difference in game performance? I am using a 7950 3GB graphics card. How hard would it be to upgrade a CPU and would it be cheaper to just build a new pc?
Upgrading the whole PC would be wasting money, unless you had someone to sell/give your current one to, or had something else in mind for it to be re-purposed for, IMO (IoW, as a net cost of $300, with no gain from your current parts, not worth it by miles...but if you need another PC anyway, or will sell what you have, it could be worth it). An FX-6300 is a nice budget gaming CPU, and you'd not get a substantial improvement with an 8320.
An i5 would be a good bit faster, but worth $300 that could go elsewhere, compared to what you have? I'm not so sure. If you like the grip of the DeathAdder, and don't like the mouse you have now, that will make a much greater difference than a bit more CPU performance will, at a fraction of the cost. I don't think a keyboard will improve your gameplay at all, but a good keyboard does improve the overall experience of using a PC.
IMO, get a 240GB M500 ($150) or 256GB Sandisk Ultra Plus ($155), and a bigger HDD. Then, reload Win 7 to the SSD (with no HD connected until after the install), copy all your current HDD's files to the new HDD, and go from there.
Well I am getting a different OS because my uncle, tech guy for 25 years, said the version of win 7 I have won't be able to transfer to a SSD or SSHD. So there's that reason.
If the license you have is an OEM license, he's wrong:
http://www.microsoft.com/oem/en/licensing/sblicensing/pages/licensing_faq.aspx#fbid=iOLLiA4azV-
Generally, an end user can upgrade or replace all of the hardware components on a computer—except the motherboard—and still retain the license for the original Microsoft OEM operating system software. If the motherboard is upgraded or replaced for reasons other than a defect, then a new computer has been created. Microsoft OEM operating system software cannot be transferred to the new computer, and the license of new operating system software is required. If the motherboard is replaced because it is defective, you do not need to acquire a new operating system license for the PC as long as the replacement motherboard is the same make/model or the same manufacturer's replacement/equivalent, as defined by the manufacturer's warranty.
If it is an upgrade license, then I'm not sure. That might require an install of the older OEM- or retail-licensed OS first, and that could become annoying enough to shell out another $100 . HDD failures are pretty common, as is running out of space, so they do not tie it to the storage device it is on.
I also don't have ability to add a ssd and hdd because I don't have enough cords to connect two drives, forgot tech names grr.
Y-cables are the solution, and they are cheap, especially if you get one that doesn't end up incurring added shipping costs:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st?ke...011&sort=price