USB Dongle vs PCI vs PCIE for desktop wireless?

[greatnoob]

My room is basically at the far right of the house and the router is on the opposite end and I've been using a 54g Netgear dongle that maxes out at 11mbps on a 25mbps connection (other devices reach up to 23mbps from the same distance).

I was wondering if the TP Link AC1200 is worth $30 off of ebay (listing ends in 3 hours) or if I should just grab a 300mbps WN821n for $14.4 ($18 + 20% off) OR the PCI/PCI-E equivalent for $20. Which one would be the better buy? Would the position of the PCI slot compared to the USB port on the top of the case affect speeds?

Thanks.

EDIT: Also, the router is in the garage... where we have a temporary kitchen complete with a fridge, wireless telephones and a microwave. I don't know why but sometimes the speeds randomly craps out at night to just 3mbps even when there's only 1 client, I'm right next to it and the microwave isn't microwaving and no incoming phone calls.

 

[JackMDS]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106251

 

[ArisVer]

If your router is "n", go for an n network adapter.

Choosing between USB and PCI/PCIE, I have that question myself, but I expect the PCI/PCIE soltution to be better.

 

[JackMDS]

If your router is "n", go for an n network adapter.

Choosing between USB and PCI/PCIE, I have that question myself, but I expect the PCI/PCIE soltution to be better.

The issue is Not PCIe or USB.

If the Cards' Antenna are stuck to the card behind the Tower and the wall (or other obstruction nothing will work well.

Very small USB Dongles are very limited because their size restricts in their power capacity.

 

[thefreeaccount]

Anything with a 1000mW output is likely to give you the best range.
Something like:

http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036N...p/B00LU4MSI2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
or
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity®-Wir...sim_pc_29?ie=UTF8&refRID=1RKRF8A1ZR11NPA31NDA

The problem with these devices is that, as JackMDS mentioned, powering them can be a pain because there is often too much voltage drop over a long or low-quality (28/28) USB cable. Ideally, plug the adapter into a short 28/24 USB cable connected to a self-powered USB hub. Then use a longer cable to connect the USB hub to your computer.

Don't get an AC wireless adapter if you want the best possible range - AC requires lower transmit power / higher sensitivity. I don't believe there are any AC adapters with 1W output.

I also don't know of any PCIe adapters that have 1W output power, and in any case with the coax run to the external antenna, you'll be dealing with both voltage drop and signal attenuation, which is harder to remedy.

 

[Lorne]

Microwave could be causing your dropouts.
Try moving the router higher, All metal between you and the router is a reflector.
Option, Does the router have an external antenna?, If so you can get a higher gain replacement.

As mentioned above USB is a little power limited but I have also found that some cabling harness to the front USB panels are severely lacking in shielding and power, Which stacks on top of its limited design.
PCI/e can be better but being hidden behind the case is its fall if its facing away from the router.

An AC network adapter (non-wireless) is a good option.

 

[azazel1024]

My room is basically at the far right of the house and the router is on the opposite end and I've been using a 54g Netgear dongle that maxes out at 11mbps on a 25mbps connection (other devices reach up to 23mbps from the same distance).

I was wondering if the TP Link AC1200 is worth $30 off of ebay (listing ends in 3 hours) or if I should just grab a 300mbps WN821n for $14.4 ($18 + 20% off) OR the PCI/PCI-E equivalent for $20. Which one would be the better buy? Would the position of the PCI slot compared to the USB port on the top of the case affect speeds?

Thanks.

EDIT: Also, the router is in the garage... where we have a temporary kitchen complete with a fridge, wireless telephones and a microwave. I don't know why but sometimes the speeds randomly craps out at night to just 3mbps even when there's only 1 client, I'm right next to it and the microwave isn't microwaving and no incoming phone calls.

What router are you using? If you have an 11n router, just switching to an 11n adapter is likely to see at least a small increase in performance. Switching to a dual stream adapter could more than double your performance at the same location. Having the antennas positioned so that that they are unobstructed by the computer or furniture would also help.

As for the drop out, I'd suspect more likely you are getting interference from a neighbors network that is causing the performance to crap out. That is probably just when they happen to use their wireless network more often.

 

[PliotronX]

Unless I am missing something, USB is not carrying the 802.11 radio signal. The conversion happens within the radio controller in the box that the USB cable leads to. The USB cable length is irrelevant. This appears to be the best of both worlds:

Now since there is an antenna cable carrying signal up to the tri-tenna then there is signal loss in that cable but it is probably offset by the ability to position the antenna apparatus more effectively.

 

[thefreeaccount]

Unless I am missing something, USB is not carrying the 802.11 radio signal. The conversion happens within the radio controller in the box that the USB cable leads to. The USB cable length is irrelevant.

Voltage drop across the cable, or general inability to carry a decent amount of current (crappy usb cable) means that the radio amplifier will receive less power. The devices I linked are approaching the theoretical maximum USB power draw of 2.5W, which I have never managed to receive in practice. If the voltage is too low, the USB adapter may even work intermittently or not work at all. I have a 1W engenius adapter that typically will not work unless it is plugged into two USB ports.

It's the same reason why your cell phone charges faster or more slowly when you use different USB cables.

In most cases, range is limited by the power output of the wireless client. Though when using a high-power client, the power output of the base station may also be important.

 

[inachu]

Other than power output from a USB wifi device most engineers will consider it sloppy science to get the proper antenna for a given location.

What might work best for Bob may not work for Sally because of types of walls and flooring.

With any wifi transceiver that has 2 or more antennae then you will want 1 to be totally vertical. the next to be at a 45 degree angle and the 3rd to be totally horizontal. This way you maximize the service to as much as you can in your house and have the 45 degree tilting antenna to have its long side to be pointing at your direction if you are upstairs. Pointing an antenna like a finger at your location gives weakest gains.

 

[azazel1024]

That...that actually is absolutely not the way to do it.

That MAY maximize coverage and reduce any polarization issues for worst case scenarios. It will also minimize actually maximum performance at all locations as you are just about guranteed that one spatial stream will be of the wrong polarity most of the time as well as lots of parts of your house where you will be outside of the vertical half-power beam width of one or more antennas as well.

The generally best coverage is provided by having all antennas directly vertical, or two of the three (of a three antenna design) at a VERY slight angle, like 3-6 degrees off vertical.

You want better coverage above or below the router? Get one on the floor above or below. You can tilt the antennas to shove the signal above or below the router, but that'll greatly reduce the signal on the existing floor.

 

[Emulex]

The noise inside the chassis tends to crap out PCI-E wifi devices. Plus the older ones would hang your whole system say when they overheat and crap themselves.

USB generally allows you to move 3-5 feet away from the case and do some aiming of the antenna's.