Wall mounting a plasma - not a standard depth wall?

[destrekor]

So then...really, the only concern will be how the "studs" are affixed to the concrete wall behind them. If they're firmly attached, (more than just "glued" in place) with some kind of proper fastener at close enough intervals to prevent any sagging from the weight, mount the TV directly to/through them and the concrete wall. (presuming they're spaced in a way that works for your mount.
There are all sorts of "kits" similar to the one you linked for hiding the wires in the wall. Your big challenge there will be power. (coax can be run almost anywhere without issue)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...as2&tag=housofhepw-20&linkId=W7OGSOX5GMZR4VXF

Now what if the "studs" are not fastened in any way to the concrete, and are just fastened to the joists?

If I am drilling through the wood and another half inch to inch into the concrete behind it, would it not be properly secured?

I've got to do the same thing with a speaker mount on the one wall. Thankfully the other wall for the rear right speaker is the one wall with proper studs so I can do it proper, but for the rear left speaker I'll drill through the furring strip and then well into the cement.

 

[Humpy]

I obsess over those small details

I'm a big fan of systems that are detailed out with dedicated circuits, optimized wire paths, isolating transformers, backup generators, etc., that result in ideal conditions for most any circumstance.

doesn't cost an arm and a leg

Uh oh.

 

[skyking]

You asked.
Regardless of how the wood is installed either horizontal or vertical over concrete, it is furring. That's the term.
It will be sufficiently anchored to support a Plasma fastened to it.
Worrying about what code you do or don't follow is meaningless without a permit and an inspection. Running wires through a piece of smurf between low voltage boxes is perfectly safe.
Hiding any junction behind drywall is not. No splice or joint hidden, no problem.

 

[Aikouka]

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-TVL2508K-1-Profile-Shallow-Drywall/dp/B00CSHE0FO

That's pretty nifty. My plan was just to install a normal outlet (in a TV box) linked from an outlet below the TV, but the only problem is... it would lack UPS back-up. I like it on a TV, because if you have a quick blackout or a brown out, your TV will still stay on and you have no interruptions. I'm tempted to buy a smaller UPS and stuff it behind the TV... just push it out about 3-4" or so.

 

[destrekor]

Wait... could I just wire up my own version of this kit? At least the power extension part.

Get some Romex wire, connect each end to a receptacle and have the lower receptacle feature a male power connector? An IEC 60320 c14 connector specifically. Cheaper too I reckon! (or a NEMA 5-15-P as a receptacle like these kits usually have)

Then I could just install some low profile cord brackets too if I still go that route and don't use a a gang for HDMI. I might do that after all, especially if I make my own "extension kit" like this.

 

[skyking]

An extension cord through the wall would be safer than cobbling something up.

 

[destrekor]

An extension cord through the wall would be safer than cobbling something up.

Likely true lol

But I would be hoping to not "cobble something up" with this approach. It's either there is an actual receptacle insert part for the male end, or I won't do it. But I figure some of these kits need you to wire up the upper portion with the 3 wires out of a Romex cable, so is it really cobbling something together if I just wire up both ends? Sure I'd have to research how to do it, but, I like these kinds of simpler projects. I'm NOT wiring into existing circuits, hell to the no, I'm leaving that to the pros lol.

Then again, perhaps it could be wired up with a standard female receptacle, and then for the cord coming from the wall to the UPS, just get a cord that is male to male? That seems feasible.

 

[BoomerD]

Likely true lol

But I would be hoping to not "cobble something up" with this approach. It's either there is an actual receptacle insert part for the male end, or I won't do it. But I figure some of these kits need you to wire up the upper portion with the 3 wires out of a Romex cable, so is it really cobbling something together if I just wire up both ends? Sure I'd have to research how to do it, but, I like these kinds of simpler projects. I'm NOT wiring into existing circuits, hell to the no, I'm leaving that to the pros lol.

Then again, perhaps it could be wired up with a standard female receptacle, and then for the cord coming from the wall to the UPS, just get a cord that is male to male? That seems feasible.

The kit I linked to earlier has a dedicated plug-to-plug set up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...as2&tag=housofhepw-20&linkId=W7OGSOX5GMZR4VXF

Also..just screwing 1/2" to 1" into the concrete (IMO) isn't enough. 1-1/2" would be considerably sturdier.

The length of the Tapcon® fastener to be used is determined by combining the thickness of the material to be attached with the desired depth of embedment in the base material. It is recommended that a minimum of 1" and a maximum of 1-3/4" embedment be used in determining fastener length. The diameter of the fastener and the depth of embedment affect pullout strengths. A carbide-tipped drill bit is supplied with each box of Tapcon® fasteners. The correct hole must be drilled for the screw to obtain holding values. In all cases the hole must be at least 1/4" deeper than the depth of the fastener embedment.

 

[skyking]

^I don't think an anchor in the concrete is necessary, but yes, if you do it has to be in deeper than that or it will just spall out the top of the hole and do nothing.

 

[destrekor]

The kit I linked to earlier has a dedicated plug-to-plug set up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...as2&tag=housofhepw-20&linkId=W7OGSOX5GMZR4VXF

Also..just screwing 1/2" to 1" into the concrete (IMO) isn't enough. 1-1/2" would be considerably sturdier.

That kit is too deep.

I actually already bought (and will receive tomorrow) a version of that kit, the Two-CK: https://www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-TWO-CK-Management-PowerConnect-Wall-Mounted/dp/B00GWGZGQ4

But with the space between panel and concrete only being 1.5", I need something shallow.

I am considering this kit, which I linked to earlier:
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-TVL2508K-1-Profile-Shallow-Drywall/dp/B00CSHE0FO

 

[Humpy]

Also..just screwing 1/2" to 1" into the concrete (IMO) isn't enough. 1-1/2" would be considerably sturdier.

Yes, a long tapcon would work and for sure follow their instructions.

If using a screw be sure to oversize the hole through the 2x4 so the screw threads don't bite into wood. Threading through two separate assemblies makes it difficult to tell if you actually got a good bite in the concrete. Do not over tighten. I would probably use an expanding sleeve anchor in this case, it would be simpler and a little more foolproof.

 

[BoomerD]

That kit is too deep.

I actually already bought (and will receive tomorrow) a version of that kit, the Two-CK: https://www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-TWO-CK-Management-PowerConnect-Wall-Mounted/dp/B00GWGZGQ4

But with the space between panel and concrete only being 1.5", I need something shallow.

I am considering this kit, which I linked to earlier:
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-TVL2508K-1-Profile-Shallow-Drywall/dp/B00CSHE0FO

That should do the trick...as long as the power cord length works for your application.

 

[Imp]

I've thought about wall mounting a TV but hole drilling looked like too much work and too permanent. Next best thing seemed to be TV stands with wall mount brackets. Just an idea, haven't done so myself yet. This is a fairly low profile one, but you said you're trying to get rid of yours so this probably won't work.

https://www.amazon.com/FLEXIMOUNTS-C01-Stand-Plasma-Screen/dp/B016EWH7JE/

 

[BoomerD]

I'd LOVE to hang my Panny 65" plasma screen...but it weighs a fuck-ton...92.6 lbs without the stand, according to the manual. I don't think my crappy walls would support that much weight without collapsing...

 

[Carson Dyle]

Aren't most TV mounts designed to be mounted on vertical studs with 16" spacing? How do horizontally mounted furring strips work with the mount you're considering? If you plan on screwing the mount into the concrete wall, I'd be a little leery about going through drywall, 1.5" of air, then concrete.

Scarpozzi's idea of mounting a plywood panel to the wall and anchoring the TV mount to that might end up being the best bet if the screw spacing for the mount doesn't line up well with the furring strips.

 

[destrekor]

Aren't most TV mounts designed to be mounted on vertical studs with 16" spacing? How do horizontally mounted furring strips work with the mount you're considering? If you plan on screwing the mount into the concrete wall, I'd be a little leery about going through drywall, 1.5" of air, then concrete.

Scarpozzi's idea of mounting a plywood panel to the wall and anchoring the TV mount to that might end up being the best bet if the screw spacing for the mount doesn't line up well with the furring strips.

I think my original description of "horizontal" might be throwing everyone off a little bit.

What are you envisioning with that description? I'm imagining instead of vertical studs, that they were strips of wood running parallel with the floor and ceiling instead of perpendicular.

However, what I intended to say, and think I cleared up with other posts, is quite different: they are vertical like studs, but oriented opposite how they normally are.

So imagine a standard stud, which creates a hollow space 3.5" deep once you get passed the wall material. And when looking head on (think: x-ray vision through walls), you only see the short face of the lumber, a 1.5" cross-section.

Now, turn it the other way, and that's why I'm facing. With that x-ray vision again, now you are seeing a cross-section of 3.5", and the hollow space is 1.5" deep. The "studs" still run vertically. And I presume they are fastened to the joist overhead in the same fashion as a typical stud.

Why the hell they are oriented this direction I haven't the faintest idea. If they were going for a furring strip approach, why not just use typical furring strips, which are generally 1x2 or 2x2 but typically 1x2. And they use that typical furring strip size in the front wall, where there isn't a shared wall with a neighbor but instead faces the front yard. If it's just separation of the wall from the concrete, it's no different which concrete wall you are using.

So the question became: can I mount to these studs, if they are equally as load bearing, but without using the same depth lag nuts? I fear the loss of strength that comes with shorter lags and not biting into the same amount of material.

And the other approach: drilling first through the wood, and then into the concrete behind it. I briefly thought about drilling directly into the concrete but with the air gap still in play, but then thought that air gap would strain the strength of the fastener.

 

[Carson Dyle]

However, what I intended to say, and think I cleared up with other posts, is quite different: they are vertical like studs, but oriented opposite how they normally are.

Yes, I missed that clarification. I did see where you figured out they were 2x4s.

Why the hell they are oriented this direction I haven't the faintest idea. If they were going for a furring strip approach, why not just use typical furring strips, which are generally 1x2 or 2x2 but typically 1x2. And they use that typical furring strip size in the front wall, where there isn't a shared wall with a neighbor but instead faces the front yard. If it's just separation of the wall from the concrete, it's no different which concrete wall you are using.

I dunno. They didn't want/need to frame out a wall, but maybe that was the lumber they had on hand for furring strips. For one wall, the cost difference would be small. If you're going to mount the studs to the wall with construction adhesive, that's the way you'd do it - flat, not on edge.

So the question became: can I mount to these studs, if they are equally as load bearing, but without using the same depth lag nuts? I fear the loss of strength that comes with shorter lags and not biting into the same amount of material.

Bolts, not nuts. You could easily use lag bolts sunk into 1.5" of wood, but it depends on how much weight you'll hang and how many bolts. For your job, I'd think four would be plenty, six would be safe. (For determining the proper length of bolt, make sure you account for both the thickness of the drywall and the thickness of the mount itself.)

And the other approach: drilling first through the wood, and then into the concrete behind it.

Might just be overkill.

 

[BoomerD]

I think my original description of "horizontal" might be throwing everyone off a little bit.

What are you envisioning with that description? I'm imagining instead of vertical studs, that they were strips of wood running parallel with the floor and ceiling instead of perpendicular.

However, what I intended to say, and think I cleared up with other posts, is quite different: they are vertical like studs, but oriented opposite how they normally are.

So imagine a standard stud, which creates a hollow space 3.5" deep once you get passed the wall material. And when looking head on (think: x-ray vision through walls), you only see the short face of the lumber, a 1.5" cross-section.

Now, turn it the other way, and that's why I'm facing. With that x-ray vision again, now you are seeing a cross-section of 3.5", and the hollow space is 1.5" deep. The "studs" still run vertically. And I presume they are fastened to the joist overhead in the same fashion as a typical stud.

Why the hell they are oriented this direction I haven't the faintest idea. If they were going for a furring strip approach, why not just use typical furring strips, which are generally 1x2 or 2x2 but typically 1x2. And they use that typical furring strip size in the front wall, where there isn't a shared wall with a neighbor but instead faces the front yard. If it's just separation of the wall from the concrete, it's no different which concrete wall you are using.

So the question became: can I mount to these studs, if they are equally as load bearing, but without using the same depth lag nuts? I fear the loss of strength that comes with shorter lags and not biting into the same amount of material.

And the other approach: drilling first through the wood, and then into the concrete behind it. I briefly thought about drilling directly into the concrete but with the air gap still in play, but then thought that air gap would strain the strength of the fastener.

Yep, per your original description, I envisioned the 2x4 lumber running in a horizontal direction...parallel to the floor/ceiling. The way they actually are makes a HUGE difference...as long as they're firmly affixed to the concrete wall behind them.

 

[Humpy]

LOL It's all starting to makes sense, sort of.

There could be reason or no reason for why things are the way they are. If you're out of 2x2's it's cheaper to use 2x4's than it is to pay someone to rip them in half to make 2x2's. If you aren't actually furring out the wall, because of potential implications from attaching something to shared property or ran out of masonry nails, and are just building a thin wall you would use a full 2x4.

The orientation doesn't really matter if they are attached to a top and bottom plate. A shorter fastener matters but not for 56lbs. You could literally hang this TV from one nail and some picture wire.

What are you going to watch on this TV that's so important anyways?

 

[destrekor]

Okay, so with the proper orientation now properly in everyone's imagination (see: correct words matter people! I could have made this thread a LOT easier had I stopped to think about my description lol) does everyone think just shorter lag bolts into the wood would be just fine?

And I imagine this would be dependent upon the "studs" being firmly attached to a top and bottom plate and not just glued to the concrete behind it, right?

 

[destrekor]

What are you going to watch on this TV that's so important anyways?

The world tear itself apart, all from the safety and comfort of my home.

 

[Squisher]

The only thing I can think of that might not be code in your proposed setup is that given your shallow wall depth code MIGHT require conduit inside the wall. Generally speaking when you run romex through a wall you either clamp it in the middle of the stud or in the case of rework it's left to dangle loose in the wall either way you're unlikely to drive a nail into it. When you have to bring wire runs within 1 1/2" of a surface code requires a .060" metal shield. Now, no inspector is likely to ever catch this, but in your case you could use flexible conduit or BX cable, both are doable but would complicate the install. I'm sure this is just what you wanted to hear, another voice from the peanut gallery.

 

[destrekor]

All peanut gallery voices are welcome in this here thread!


Also - I have a 18v drill and a 5amp corded drill. Standard drills. I do not have any kind of rotary hammer or hammer drill. Do I really need to buy one for this purpose, likely driving Tapcons? Or, for just a few driven, is a drill going to be fine? I figured the corded drill would be better than nothing in this situation.

 

[boomerang]

I wouldn't buy a hammer drill if I had no anticipation of any further use. Few of us do. I ran a PVC drain line from the softener about 30 ft. along the basement wall to the sump crock. I used tapcon's. I was a PITA with a regular drill motor but I survived it.

 

[destrekor]

Exactly what I was hoping to hear, thanks!

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk