Wall mounting a plasma - not a standard depth wall?

[BoomerD]

If you need a hammer drill (and they definitely make drilling concrete MUCH easier)..rent one at Home Depot, 4 hours or by the day.

 

[Squisher]

Never turn your back on an excuse to buy new tools.

btw-tool rental centers have smaller hammer drills. I got my Black and Decker from a pawn shop for $10 because it had a dead spot in the contacts, a little disassembly and sanding on the commutator and I've used it a dozen times with no problems so far.

 

[destrekor]

No shit, they can be rented? That's sweet.

I was thinking of asking friends and family if anyone had one, then if not I was just going to likely accept I'll need to suck it up and carry on with my regular corded drill. At least a 5 amp drill should definitely have some good grunt to it with direct AC input.... I'd hope.

 

[destrekor]

Never turn your back on an excuse to buy new tools.

btw-tool rental centers have smaller hammer drills. I got my Black and Decker from a pawn shop for $10 because it had a dead spot in the contacts, a little disassembly and sanding on the commutator and I've used it a dozen times with no problems so far.

Oh, see, my problem is I am trying to find excuses to NOT buy new tools right now! Not because I don't want them, but dammit I'm broke now lol, I just bought a home! There are sooo many new toys I want, so many projects I want to do, mainly around woodworking. I'd love to have a new and practical hobby and I want all the tools!

 

[BarkingGhostar]

Personally I would go with channel struts mounted to the drywall face and bolted to the furring strips (ahem, 2x4 face nailed), or bolted to the concrete. I ran a couple of channel struts across three ceiling joists (24" OC) and it is holding up a 160 pound CRT projector that I installed in 2003 (haven't taken it down yet).

 

[Carson Dyle]

Do you think they used double-sided tape to mount those 2x4s to the wall?

 

[destrekor]

Do you think they used double-sided tape to mount those 2x4s to the wall?

I'm confused. You mentioned use of construction adhesive. I'm assuming this is something super strong, but... is it not still just adhesive? Are you really going to mount something heavy and valuable onto something just glued to the wall? Sounds sketchy to me, but again I haven't a clue what this construction adhesive is made of. If it's made from unicorns, perhaps it's quite magical indeed! lmao

 

[BoomerD]

I'm confused. You mentioned use of construction adhesive. I'm assuming this is something super strong, but... is it not still just adhesive? Are you really going to mount something heavy and valuable onto something just glued to the wall? Sounds sketchy to me, but again I haven't a clue what this construction adhesive is made of. If it's made from unicorns, perhaps it's quite magical indeed! lmao

Construction adhesive...liquid nails and the like, are pretty damned good products that apply like a caulk. IF those 2x4's were installed with the appropriate product, I'm sure they will support the TV...IF they were done right.

 

[destrekor]

Construction adhesive...liquid nails and the like, are pretty damned good products that apply like a caulk. IF those 2x4's were installed with the appropriate product, I'm sure they will support the TV...IF they were done right.

Thanks for the explanation

 

[Red Squirrel]

One option is to screw at an angle too, like 45 degrees downwards, it will give it a bit more strength. Use every hole that is available by the mount. The top holes are the most important. That's where most of the pull force is.

I would try to avoid drilling in the concrete but if you do, use sleeve anchors, not tapcons. Sleeve anchors look like this:



You could mount a truck to the wall with those things.

 

[destrekor]

Update:

They are 1x2 furring strips, not 2x4s facing weirdly. The only reason I thought they were 2x4s is because the stud finder I have, which has been super accurate elsewhere, was indicating the wood was wider than a stud, almost exactly the 3.5" you'd expect for the long edge of a 2x4. But, I think it is just the shallow depth, with solid concrete behind, throws off the stud finder once it does encounter any wood.

So, I have 0.75" of hollow space, not 1.5", so does that change anything? Still drill through the furring strips first and then into the concrete behind?

It is going to complicate my desire to get power up high. Even the shallow once I was looking at is deeper than I can use. Arggh. Way too shallow to even have an electrician install a proper electrical outlet.

 

[BoomerD]

Time to use a good quality extension cord...

 

[Humpy]

Isn't the low profile box linked earlier made specifically for 3/4" furring strips?

I'm not even sure what is going on in this thread anymore but this job is waaaaay behind schedule.

Do you not want to do this?

 

[destrekor]

Isn't the low profile box linked earlier made specifically for 3/4" furring strips?

I'm not even sure what is going on in this thread anymore but this job is waaaaay behind schedule.

Do you not want to do this?

Job hasn't started yet man, this is my obsessive research. And then I gotta wait for something to ship! lol

And yeah, this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-TVL2508K-1-Profile-Shallow-Drywall/dp/B00CSHE0FO

Unfortunately it is 1.25" deep - suitable for 2" dimension lumber, but not 1" lumber.

 

[WoodButcher]

And yeah, this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-TVL2508K-1-Profile-Shallow-Drywall/dp/B00CSHE0FO

Unfortunately it is 1.25" deep - suitable for 2" dimension lumber, but not 1" lumber.

3/4" furring strip and 1/2" drywall is 1.25" deep.

 

[destrekor]

3/4" furring strip and 1/2" drywall is 1.25" deep.

But it's not 1/2" drywall. It's more like 1/4" wood panel.

 

[WoodButcher]

In that case make a 1/4" gasket from plywood and you'll have 1/2". The outlet / box will finish a 1/4" proud of the surface of the wall.

 

[destrekor]

I suppose that could be the exact solution I need. I was thinking of some way to extend it out - extended a little bit wouldn't be much of an issue I guess.

 

[Red Squirrel]

Another option is to build out a wall for the TV, then you can have plenty of room to run cables and build it exactly how you like and have more wood to screw into. Just a standard 2x4 wall that is right up against the existing wall, it might even add some accent to the room as you can paint it a slightly different complimentary color.

 

[Squisher]

I went the easy route.

All very paintable:

 

[sdifox]

Screw in a piece of plywood with lots of screws. Attach tv mount to plywood with lots of screws.

 

[destrekor]

Uh oh! I Think this falls into #TIFU category:

So, I bought a Bosch hammer drill for this task. And for the TV I bought Redhead 3/8"x3" sleeve anchors. I was able to drill/hammer quite well with a Bosch 3/8" masonry bit.


I put the anchors in the holes so that as I put in joint compound and painted the walls (covering up the wood paneling) I wouldn't accidentally fill in said holes.

Well yesterday for the first round of mud, I just barely put them in, didn't even tap them in further. Well today I figured I might as well put them in almost all the way.

But, they didn't even make it to "almost all the way". At first I figured, oh I just need more muscle behind the hammer.

Then I thought to double check the drill and sure enough I realized I did some forgetful math. I set the depth gauge for a little over 2.25", thinking well I want the hole in the concrete that deep. It is just shy of 1.25" from concrete to front surface of the paneling.

So... I done fucked by and now these bolts are embedded a little over an inch, and are sticking out of the wall by about 1.25" (the whole thing is longer than 3" btw).

So... These are basically in there permanently now, right? I tried tugging for a while then thought, fuck these have a very high pull out rating! Arghhhh.

Is there some way to get these out that I have ignored, something easier when removal is intentional?

Are they in deep enough to still hang the TV? The wall mount bracket will be about 1" off the wall so I don't know if that's something to worry about as well. That's because the inner bolt itself will pass through the holes in the bracket but not the while anchor.

The other worry is that the package states minimum embedment is 1.5".

Any help for me on this one?

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

 

[Red Squirrel]

Should be able to lightly tap them side ways with a hammer to wiggle them out. Worse case scenario, destructively, and you'll need to get more. If you mess up the hole too much you may need to drill more a few inches away from original. Next time make sure they go in all the way before you start adding any kind of adhesives. You don't actually need to fill with anything though.

You'll definitely want them in all the way so they don't stick out.

I presume in your case there is a small void between drywall and concrete? I would try to see if you can insert some kind of blocks or something just so that you can mount the TV bracket tight enough without damaging drywall.

 

[destrekor]

Should be able to lightly tap them side ways with a hammer to wiggle them out. Worse case scenario, destructively, and you'll need to get more. If you mess up the hole too much you may need to drill more a few inches away from original. Next time make sure they go in all the way before you start adding any kind of adhesives. You don't actually need to fill with anything though.

You'll definitely want them in all the way so they don't stick out.

I presume in your case there is a small void between drywall and concrete? I would try to see if you can insert some kind of blocks or something just so that you can mount the TV bracket tight enough without damaging drywall.

Oh there are no adhesives involved or anything filling the holes. I was just referencing that I was using joint compound to fill in the artificial slotting in the wood paneling. I'm smoothing it out and painting as a light accent wall.

 

[destrekor]

Well how about that, some light hammer duty was able to work them loose enough to remove.

I can reuse these holes after drilling deeper, wouldn't you think? The actual anchor part that widens would be buried in the new hole anyway.

But in the effort to hammer them in deeper, thinking that was all that was missing, I made some of these bolts useless by bending the end or the threaded nut.

Lessons learned galore lol

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