Want to get my dad a chainsaw, I know nothing about them

[SithSolo1]

My dad's been asking for a chainsaw for a while so I figured I'd get him one for his birthday.

Needs:
Something thats easy to start, he's over 60
Something "that the damned ethanol won't eat through easily"


He's had this specific model or a model similar to it for years: http://www.amazon.com/Poulan-P4018WT-18-Inch-2-Cycle-Powered/dp/B002XH9LD0
He said he liked it but the ethanol ate the lines up and he tried to fix it but couldn't get it working

He might use this thing 10 times a year on limbs, maybe a tree but I'd like to get him something a little nicer than what he had. I don't know anything about chainsaws beyond they cut wood but I'd like to keep under $400 if possible.

Any tips, advice, or questions are welcome.

 

[cabri]

Find a few local dealers (not a box store) and talk to them. Feel the equipment.

I have used Poulan, Stihl and Husqvarna.
I have presently a Craftsman that was given to me.

The Stihl was the only one that I had problems with; the teeth dulled quickly, making cuts painful. (But it was a rental)

What ever you get, while the automatic sharpening may be nice, it is best to have a manual backup.

While the dealer may be a little more $$; paying for their experience and support is well worth it (IMO)

 

[bigi]

Do consider EGO 56V battery chainsaw. It requires no gas and always starts. It is quieter and lighter than similar gas models.

It works very well for stuff you had specified.

Get one with 2Ah or 4Ah battery and you should be good.

 

[edro]

Ethanol kills most small engines.
He needs to use a fuel stabilizer like K100-MG.

 

[RagingBITCH]

My FIL swears by his Stihl which he has had for over 15+ years. We spent a good deal of time this past week cutting up some large tree limbs that have floated in onto their land from all the rain. Never had any issues with it...he loves the thing. Also cut out a pretty decent sized stump as well on their land.

 

[NutBucket]

Newer small engines work fine with ethanol. My leaf blower is about 15 years old and runs great. The only time it seems to have issues is when the temp gets to the high 90's...

But I do add stabilizer every time I refill my gallon can.

 

[Mandres]

The battery-powered saws are getting better and better. That's probably the best way to go for a light-use model. Oregon has a new one coming soon (next month?) that should fit the bill. The model# is CS300.

I have a $40 refurb Homelite electric corded model that I just can't kill. It's slow, but I've easily cut up to 8" branches with it.

Or if you'd rather go with a gas saw buy whichever brand has the best dealer local to your dad so he has somewhere to take it when it won't start.

 

[Raizinman]

Depending on his expertise with chain saws, I would not give any over 60 year old a gas model chain saw. My dad used an electric chain saw $50 for many years. These thing can be purchased at Lowes, Home Depot or even Target. The one at Lowes for $49.95 can cut up to a 14 inch diameter tree and comes with a 3 year warranty. How can you beat that?

 

[SithSolo1]

Thanks for the all the input so far, I guess I've got some lookin around to do.

I like the idea of an electric model but corded isn't really an option. Most of the tree and brush is on the outer edge of the yard and he'd need 200' of extension cords.

The Echo 58v looks good power wise but I saw a thread on the arboristsite where some people had issues with the power cutting out.

 

[Greenman]

Stihl and Husqvarna are the two top names, you won't go wrong with either.

 

[TheSlamma]

Stihl and Husqvarna are the two top names, you won't go wrong with either.

I inherited my Stihl and the thing always works every time no matter what.

 

[Blain]

I have one of those 18" Poulans linked, but I wouldn't recommend it.
I've got a 14" Tanaka top handle that I like much better. I replaced the 14" bar & chain with a 16" Oregon PowerSharp combo. I bought a bar and multiple chains at Rural King when I found them on clearance. The PowerSharp system probably isn't the best fit for a heavy user, but I only cut a few times a year. I love the fast sharpening this thing can pull off.

 

[garndawg]

Needs:
Something thats easy to start, he's over 60

He might use this thing 10 times a year on limbs, maybe a tree but I'd like to get him something a little nicer than what he had. I don't know anything about chainsaws beyond they cut wood but I'd like to keep under $400 if possible.

I rebuild small engines (mostly Stihl and Husqvarna), mostly as a hobby, and I've had these things apart down to the piston and cylinder. So please take this as advice from someone who knows the inside of these things.

For a very light user, which sounds like what you're describing, I'd go with a Poulan Pro (NOT Poulan BUT Poulan Pro!) It has a chrome lined cylinder, tooless chain tensioner and is meant for light use. Alternately, buy a rebuilt Husqvarna from Northern Tool for $200.

Both saws have parts and spare chains from Lowes', Home Depot and even Walmart for almost the same prices as a resharpening.

I'd send you toward the Stihl MS 181, but you'll have to go to the Stihl dealer from that point on. I recommend them, but sounds like you don't need that quality of saw.

Something "that the damned ethanol won't eat through easily"

This is what I'd prefer to talk most about. Ethanol is DEATH on small engines, to include lawn mowers, boat motors, etc. It's not really good for your car, either.

If you insist on Ethanol, get used to stocking replacement carburetors, as you'll need a new one every couple of years.

Easiest, best thing to do for light users is buy the premix cans from Lowes, etc. Yes, they're more expensive than buying the gas and premix, but they're virtually worry free, have a 5 year shelf life and will NOT screw up your fuel lines and carb. And you never have to worry about lean mixtures burning up your cylinder/piston either.

Buy a decent saw (I'd prefer the Husqvarna), buy him a spare chain, the little Husqvarna sharpening kit next to the chains, the brand name chain oil and 4-5 cans of premixed gas and you're still well under $300. You'll probably inherit that combo someday.

One last item; when you're done with the saw (or trimmer, etc) and don't intend to use it for a couple of weeks, drain all the gas out of the tank and run it until it dies. Then choke it and run it again until you can't get it to catch again. Keeps the old gas from varnishing your carb when it evaporates over time.

Good luck!

 

[garndawg]

I have one of those 18" Poulans linked, but I wouldn't recommend it.
I've got a 14" Tanaka top handle that I like much better. I replaced the 14" bar & chain with a 16" Oregon PowerSharp combo. I bought a bar and multiple chains at Rural King when I found them on clearance. The PowerSharp system probably isn't the best fit for a heavy user, but I only cut a few times a year. I love the fast sharpening this thing can pull off.

I like the Powersharp combo, but a brief learning how to manually sharpen is much cheaper and longer lasting. The little husqvarna sharpening kits sold at Lowes are quite good, as long as you get the right one for your chain.

 

[skyking]

What is his location?
I ask because with a little looking, you can find ethanol free gas for your small engines.
http://pure-gas.org/
Get some sta-bil and a couple of cans will last the better part of a year for you, and eliminate so many problems.

 

[SithSolo1]

What is his location?
I ask because with a little looking, you can find ethanol free gas for your small engines.
http://pure-gas.org/
Get some sta-bil and a couple of cans will last the better part of a year for you, and eliminate so many problems.

Looks like there are 3 stations near hear. Two with 90 and one with 87.

This weekend I'm gonna swing by the local Stihl dealer and see what they have in stock.

 

[BTRY B 529th FA BN]

Any modern saw can be a good saw if you know how to sharpen the teeth, and maintenance it. The teeth will dull on even the most professional user. Certain cuts will screw the chain up, you just have to be smart/experienced on how to go through different types of cuts. Putting too much pressure on the bar or trying to twist the bar through the cut will cost you time because you will screw up the teeth and have to re-sharpen the teeth - pray you don't have a bar longer than 18" because you will spend some time even with a new file. If you ever file the rakers down do it minimally. It's a part of chain maintenance that you'll have to do at one point or another. What I call the raker is the shark like fin before the tooth. Some chains have a single raker some have an elongated type of raker.


You want to be sensitive with your saw to heat. I always refill my oil reservoirs when they reach half empty. When the bar and chain start to collect sap and discolor (a brown buildup will occur) that means the bar guide has too much saw dust/chip build up in the guide. You MUST frequently clean it out to make the bar and chain last. The heat will also facilitate the degrading of the sharpness of the teeth. I frequently clean mine, and I let the saw cool down between cuts - this is necessary to keeping the saw "healthy." When the heat from the saw starts to get noticeable that means it's time to let it cool down. Also be aware if paint starts to chip or come off any part of the saw.

 

[BTRY B 529th FA BN]

You'll need two round files, one flat file, a gallon of bar oil, and some gas mix (32:1 or richer) never go leaner than 32:1.

 

[garndawg]

Looks like there are 3 stations near hear. Two with 90 and one with 87.

This weekend I'm gonna swing by the local Stihl dealer and see what they have in stock.

The MS 181 CBE is a great saw for not a lot of money. Buy the MotoMix in the cans and don't worry about PureGas or mixing.

If you decide to buy gas and mix anyway, the Stihl Ultra 2-cycle oil in the little silver bottles is the way to go...

 

[SithSolo1]

Well went to the Stihl dealer, they only had 3 saws in the price range we were looking at. Everything else was pro-grade and over $600.

Ended up with a Stihl MS 250. Hope he likes it.

 

[BTRY B 529th FA BN]

I should of have mentioned that the weight of a saw is very important if you are swinging it around all day long cutting up brush and tree saplings.

Good luck