On site at Apple's famous Irish 'headquarters'
November 1, 2013, 4:05 PM EDT
We made a pilgrimage to southern Ireland to check out Apples mysterious global headquarters amid the horses and cows, heres what we found (before we were shooed away).
Apple offices in Cork, Ireland FORTUNE The biggest technology company on Earth has a sizable portion of its operations here on the outskirts of Cork, a provincial town in southern Ireland, up a hill past a traffic circle marked with a large statue of Jesus Christ on the cross. In other words, this is about as far as one can get from Apples Silicon Valley base of Cupertino, more than five thousand miles away.
And yet Cork population about 120,000 is home to five of Apples global subsidiaries, including Apple Sales International, which manages the companys gargantuan global distribution and sales of iPads, iPhones, computers, and its many other devices. (Also here are Apple Operations Europe, Apple Operations International, Apple Distribution International, and Apple Operations.)
Yet there are no multi-lane highways across the street from its redbrick and glass building. Rather, a pair of horses munches on a rangy patch of grass, near to an empty soccer field, while a few miles away, dairy cows laze on the green fields of Blarney under a stormy sky just as they did decades ago, when Steve Jobs flew into Cork in 1980 to open Apples overseas operation.
From the front, Apple HQ could well be mistaken for a high school, bland and modern, and just three stories high. And foot traffic is thin enough that when
Fortune wandered up to the entrance on Tuesday morning, security guards quickly took notice. Was there anyone we could say hello to, we asked? No, the nearest public-relations staffer was in London.
Despite that, the activities inside this modest building have provoked a firestorm in Washington, which has now rippled all the way back to Ireland. I
n U.S. Senate hearings last May, Apple
AAPL -0.31% struggled to explain how it had managed to avoid an estimated $44 billion or so in U.S. taxes, by taking advantage of Irelands 12.5% corporate tax rate, as well as mechanisms that effectively rendered it stateless for tax purposes.
One loophole has allowed Apple and others to shunt billions in profits from Ireland through the Netherlands to the tax-free British Virgin Islands, by setting up a web of subsidiaries perfectly tailored to avoiding taxes, in the famously-named Double Irish with a Dutch sandwich accounting method. Apple insists it contributes about $1 in every $40 in corporate taxes the IRS collects. And while Sen. John McCain (himself a descendent of Irish immigrants from Ulster) admits Apple is a big taxpayer, he pointed out last May that it was also among Americas largest tax avoiders.