water cooling question

[Paintballfreak66]

There is another thing I'm curious about. I'm using 1/2" ID tubing for the entire system except that the video card block, made by Koolance, comes standard with 3/8" ID tube fittings so I'll have to use adapters to make it 1/2" to 3/8" through the block and back to 1/2" on the other side. This won't create a problem will it? Simple physics says that the water will just flow faster through that section of the tubing because it is smaller correct? Just wanted to make sure this is ok. Thanks.

EDIT: I'd also like some suggestions on single 120mm fan radiators. I mainly just want to know if there are any to stay away from. I'm thinking about getting one from the Black Ice line.

PB

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: Greenman
I use a copper res, it's hard piped on to my rad and pokes out the back of the case with a fill cap on it. But I've crossed paths with a lot of polyethylene tanks and had to mod a couple to suit my needs. Threaded fittings are it's weak point, the best method to connect to them is with a threaded brass tube with a nut and washer on each side, so you clamp the polyethylene between metal parts. Molded fittings you just have to be carefull with. But once you get connected to them the darn things will take a beating that would destory a steel tank.

Pics? I really admire DIY-style, but I just don't have the talent for it. That sad part about the res you listed is that, out of the box, I don't see how it can work. I've seen pictures of them in other rigs, so I guess it's possible. But the inverted fittings on my actually expanded as I inserted the barbs and never really felt tight at all. The nuts on the barbs even started to screw into the threading. That's the first time I've seen THIS happen.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: Paintballfreak66
There is another thing I'm curious about. I'm using 1/2" ID tubing for the entire system except that the video card block, made by Koolance, comes standard with 3/8" ID tube fittings so I'll have to use adapters to make it 1/2" to 3/8" through the block and back to 1/2" on the other side. This won't create a problem will it? Simple physics says that the water will just flow faster through that section of the tubing because it is smaller correct? Just wanted to make sure this is ok. Thanks.

I've never mixed ID in the same loop, but from what I understand it isn't the best thing you can do. Doing so reduces overal flow and, depending on the contructions of your blocks, reduces performance. If your loop is already configured that way I don't think you have to fret it, but you might want to correct to all the same ID when you refit next.

EDIT: I'd also like some suggestions on single 120mm fan radiators. I mainly just want to know if there are any to stay away from. I'm thinking about getting one from the Black Ice line.

There's really no rad that I know of that you should stay away from, so much as look out for construction material. An aluminum core is to be avoided, if possible, when using unlike metal blocks, like copper, to avert galvanic corrosion. Most additives are corrosion inhibiting to some degree. But why create a potential problem for yourself if you can avoid it? As for the current "best", the Thermochill PA160 is supposedly the champ. It runs well with a broad range of fan RPM ratings and exchanges really well accross the board. The one drawback is size, it's 160mm square, I think. Based on personal experience, I can confidently say that you might want to consider a larger unit though. At least a 2x120. A larger rad will give you much better overall cooling and more options in terms of fans if quiet or extreme cooling is important to you. I think TC makes larger PA series rads.

 

[Paintballfreak66]

Originally posted by: HardWarriorI've never mixed ID in the same loop, but from what I understand it isn't the best thing you can do. Doing so reduces overal flow and, depending on the contructions of your blocks, reduces performance. If your loop is already configured that way I don't think you have to fret it, but you might want to correct to all the same ID when you refit next.

Well the problem is the Koolance block goes for about $80 retail and I found a used one at AT for $70. It only comes with 3/8" ID fittings and you have to use adapters to make it work with a 1/2" ID system. The only other good video block I could find that includes cooling for the vga memory is the Danger Den 7800 block with is $125 retail. Now if that's what I need to have for this system, I'll go ahead and get it but I wasn't sure If I could get away with saving $60 for a better rad or whatever and just using adapters for the Koolance block. Anyone else have an opinion?

 

[Greenman]

Reducing to 3\8 will just restrict flow a little bit, so pressure on the pump side will increase. As far as cooling goes, I don't see how it could matter that much, in a closed system any given drop of water spends the same amount of time in the water block no matter how fast it's moving. Also, you don't have to use 1 loop. I used a header and ran 3/8" tube to my cpu and gpu, and 1/4" to my chipset block, then another header on the return side. I don't know if it was better or worse than one loop, but it works, and it allowed me to cool a chipset that was cooking from being overclocked.

HardWarrior, right now that system is in a pile on my work bench. I think I'm going to mod an old case I have and install the system in that, but I can't do that untill I finish remodeling my kitchen.

 

[HardWarrior]

The difference is in the construction of the blocks. Euro-style blocks (3/8 blocks in general) are made to work well with 3/8 inch ID tube. The difference MAY be minimal (some Euro blocks are VERY different than what we use in the US mostly), but there may be a difference. BTW, there's nothing inherently wrong with 3/8 inch ID.