WATERCOOL Hardware Rep available! Come in and chat with me!

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

ANNOUNCEMENT!!!

You all waited very patiently, and we are deeply grateful for that. So it's my pleasure to finally be able to show you a visualization for our upcoming Threadripper blocks! All three versions will be available for pre-order in our shop tomorrow, starting with a nice 10% pre-order discount. All blocks come with the new, unique easy-mount system, directly mounted through the cold plate with no additional brackets. All mounting screws are driven with an allen key for the easiest mounting experience.

The full copper block is the pure version for copper enthusiasts. A huge copper base plate and a massive top made from one solid piece of copper offer superior cooling performance. Available from November 10th.

The Nickel block offers the unique nickel shinyness for those that don't like the pure copper aesthetics. Also made from two pieces of massive copper, then nickel plated. Available from November 24th.

The Nickel/black version is the jack of all trades. It offers the nickel plated base plate, an acrylic top, and a black anodized front cover. Under this cover, there's a preinstalled RGB LED strip that comes with a black paracord sleeved cable, long enough to directly connect it to the RGB headers found on all current X399 motherboards. Available from November 24th.




All pictures are pre-visualization renders. Especially the inlet/outlet are not rendered in detail and will look more elaborate in the final product. Also, the jet structure will be more elaborate in the final product.

 

[traderjay]

How much heat can the Mora 2 Pro handle?

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

How much heat can the Mora 2 Pro handle?

Hey traderjay,
this depends on your fan speed, fan amount, ambient temperature, and tolerated Delta-T. But as a rule of thumb, 2kW are absolutely manageable.

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

Guys,
I got two announcements for you today:

We now offer RGB LED strips, compatible with all GPU blocks from GTX 1080 / AMD RX Vega and up, and the HEATKILLER Tube series. Find all info in the News.


Second, WATERCOOL is hiring! We are looking for an experienced CAD/CAM developer to help with design and construction of new blocks and products. Find all info in the job ad. Yes, that means that if we find someone, we'll probably support more custom PCB GPUs So go go spread the word and find us some new staff

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

We discussed the VRM waterblock situation today very thoroughly. Here are some hard facts: it is very time-consuming to exactly measure motherboards. Next up, it is very time-consuming to produce MB-X waterblocks for them. But then, often enough, we only sell a few of those blocks! Inside the big Enthusiast market, watercooling is a niche, and VRM cooling is a niche in this niche, and WATERCOOL is a relatively unknown manufacturer with high quality products (and corresponding prices) - all this adds up to a small market segment that we can aim for. So, if we want to support VRM cooling (which we totally do want!), we need to find a modular system, that doesn't require a lot of designing and machining time for each separate motherboard, but comes with a handful of standardized components that can be assembled to match most motherboards on the market.
We already do have a few ideas how such a system could work, but we need data. We can't simply buy the 100 most popular motherboards to gather that data ourselves, so...

We need your help​

If you want to help us, provide pictures of your motherboards! That way, we can hopefully build a broad database with which we can start initial designs. We need three clear, focused shots:
- motherboard socket area without the VRM heatsink(s), straight shot from above. Preferably not tilted or angled, but straight frontal shot. Example, Preferred example
- backside of the heatsink with thermal pads still applied (optimal: VRM prints in the pad visible) Example, Example2
- backside of the motherboard (with vrm heatsink backplates mounted, if present) Example

We are only looking for ATX and eATX boards with sockets 1151, 2011, 2011-v3, 2066 or AM4. If you have or want to provide pics, please send them to Jakob@watercool.de and state the full name of your motherboard.

We cannot and do not promise that this will work out on the long term. As I said, we want to compare measurements and see if we can come up with a simple, modular, one-product-fits-most solution. Maybe we'll fail. But if we get a lot of samples and our initial rough pen sketches work out, we might come up with some sort of solution in 2018.
Thanks for your help!

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

Anyone up for some Threradripper Hardware porn?

...

Okay...

Oh yes Baby :drool:

 

[DrMrLordX]

Damn, that is nice. Really sends home the how big is Threadripper.

Hopefully TR2 will have the same dimensions.

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

Hey folks,
the new year is here, and we are pushing our next big product: we will release a full lineup of radiators for internal mounting! 120mm, 140mm, single/dual/triple, various thicknesses - it's all there! The only part that is currently up for debate is fin density.
We at WATERCOOL are a part of the Gaming and Overclocker Community, and we want to develop products that YOU, our fellow nerds, really want to see. So, we'd like to know YOUR personal preferences for fan speed: you rather take it slow and quiet, or you want it fast and powerful? Please answer this poll (10 seconds tops) and help us developing the right product for YOU!

 

[DietDrThunder]

I have a stupid questions for you. Why do you use copper tubing and aluminum fins in your radiators/heat exchangers instead of aluminum tubing with aluminum fins?

Also, are your radiators/heat exchangers cross flow or down flow?

 

[DrMrLordX]

I would think that they're avoiding exposing aluminum to coolant to prevent galvanic corrosion. Having copper or copper + nickel in the same loop is a lot less problematic than having copper + aluminum. At that point all your surfaces exposed to coolant have to be aluminum.

Since the fins are not exposed to any coolant, their presence should not encourage galvanic corrosion.

 

[aigomorla]

I have a stupid questions for you. Why do you use copper tubing and aluminum fins in your radiators/heat exchangers instead of aluminum tubing with aluminum fins?

Also, are your radiators/heat exchangers cross flow or down flow?

Mixing metals across the galvanic table of wetted parts is asking for disaster.

I would think that they're avoiding exposing aluminum to coolant to prevent galvanic corrosion. Having copper or copper + nickel in the same loop is a lot less problematic than having copper + aluminum. At that point all your surfaces exposed to coolant have to be aluminum.

Since the fins are not exposed to any coolant, their presence should not encourage galvanic corrosion.

Yup, because it keeps all the metals in contact simular, and minimizes galvanic corrosion.

Alu fins are not in contact with wetted materials hence u will not get a reaction from them especially when people hate using a water wetter.

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

Announcement:

We are proud to announce that from this day on, you can find a selection of BARROW fittings in our online store. To our knowledge, we are the only store in Europe where you can buy Barrow fittings and Mayhems or Primochill tubing in one place. In combination with our very own water blocks, reservoirs, and radiators, customers can now find all premium products from all categories necessary for a watercooling loop in one place!

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

First independent review for our Threadripper block available

I'm happy to say that the first independent testing site published their review of our Threadripper block. Unfortunately, it's german, so most of you won't fully understand how much in love they are with design and build quality - but you will definitely understand the following graphs:

Flow (in liters/hour)

Delta-T CPU/Water at Max Flow

Delta-T CPU/Water at fixed flowrate of 80l/h (0.35gallon/minute)

We are quite happy with these results and look forward to a few more reviews from other testers!

Barrow fittings:

We got the final tax- and customs-invoice for our Barrow fittings. It is less than we calculated with, and of course, we want our customers to benefit from this! So we adjusted the prices for many Barrow fittings in our shop!


New Tubing:

And we got ANOTHER set of new products: EPDM tubing. These tubes are completely plasticizer-free, very kink-resistant, black matte, without any imprint - the perfect choice for performance-oriented enthusiasts! We offer them in ID 3/8" - 1/2" OD (13/10mm) and ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD (16/10mm). Check it all out!!!

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

It's TEASER-TIME!

So, what are you looking at? This is the main component of our soon-to-come controller System! Some main features:
- extremely compact in size: with only 82x67x15mm, the main PCB can be installed on the backside of the mainboard tray, hiding all the cables. It is also compatible with standard 2,5'' mounting points, but is so lightweight that we actually plan to just add some good velcro for ultimate mounting flexibility.
- Modular Bus system. With a single 4pin Bus cable, an optional Display unit can be connected. This unit comes with an OLED and will be able to configure and control the whole loop without an array of buttons. It can be installed in 5,25'' front bays or can come with an external housing to sit neatly on your desktop.
- Four separately controllable fan channels, each can carry up to 2 Ampere. These channels are also compatible with PWM fans. Additionally, two PWM pumps can be installed.

-Wide sensor input: you can use up to four standard NTC Tempsensors. But you can also use our new HPT (HighPerformanceTemperatureprobe) Sensors - fully digital sensors with improved accuracy. A Flow sensor (will also be available at Watercool) can also be controlled.

- RGB everything: a header for programmable RGB LEDs is already integrated into the controller!
- ATX breaker contact: to power off the system in the case of an emergency.
- Power comes from an adapter cable directly from a PSU Molex connector.


The system already runs in some industrial appliances. We are currently finalizing the end-user software applications, and aim to release the whole system until X-mas 2018!

 

[WATERCOOL-Jakob]

We are happy and proud to finally show of the first pics of our HEATKILLER for RTX 2080Ti:

As you can see, this block uses the biggest coldplate we ever used on a block for single GPU card. This is due to Nvidia's new power delivery technology which uses additional components. These components require cooling, according to Nvidia, so we obviously won't simply ignore them. Please find the drawing of thermal pad placement below to get an idea of just HOW MANY parts of the card are integrated into our cooling solution. The huge coldplate (which weighs 800g of pure copper!) also spreads to all edges of the card's PCB, delivering a smooth and edgeless look from all angles. But we also improved our DIE cooling engine: on overclocked cards under stress tests, we reached a DeltaT from DIE to water from only 10K. We are looking forward to your opinions on the design, and your test results!

P.S.: Pics from the Nickel plated versions, including RGB lit pics, will follow in ~1 week.

 

[DrMrLordX]

Haven't seen a lot in this thread lately, but here's a bump for Watercool.de and a question:

Are you guys planning a block for Radeon VII? The quantities available to consumers may be very low, so my guess is "no", but I thought I'd ask anyway.

 

[DrMrLordX]

It looks like @WATERCOOL-Jakob hasn't been online in awhile, which is kind of a shame. I never got an answer about their Radeon VII block.

Anyway, it's time for me to finally go custom water, I think. I've been an air guy for a long time, but with the R9 3900x it may be time to switch. My Radeon VII wants to be under water as well. It's calling out to me, telling me the stock cooler isn't really that good, even if I lap the thing and use Conductonaut instead of the graphite pad.

I'm posting here because:

1). I plan on using a Heatkiller IV pure copper waterblock and MO-RA3 420 Pro (black)
2). I don't want to fill up the Cases&Cooling section with another custom watercooling thread when there are already so many.

My goals are to:

1). Keep my R9-3900x cool even with a pretty good OC. I expect the CPU to dump 250-300W easily. My preference is for this loop to be complete overkill for the CPU. Yes, I understand that there are limits to how well I can cool the CPU with simple water (versus using a chiller), but for now, I am not interested in a chiller or other forms of active cooling.

2). Help my Radeon VII run faster/better. I don't expect the card to dump much more than 350-400W due to the built-in power limits on the card (with some finagling, I think you can get around the power limits, but I think I'll stick with +20% at least for now). Even though the Radeon VII will emit more heat and will probably respond better to WC, the CPU is still my top priority.

3). Maybe cool the X570 chipset instead of that stupid little fan, if the option for such a thing is available on or near Day 1. I'm patient, and I can be induced to wait for the right product.

4). Keep all wetted surfaces pure copper. No nickel. I want to use a kill coil. Not sure if the MO-RA3 will be a problem here.

5). Reduce/eliminate exposure of the coolant to light of any kind. The kill coil should impede most biologicals, but still, why feed potential growth? It doesn't need to look pretty, it just needs to work.

My current case is a Rosewill Thor v2, which can be seen here:

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811147053?Description=Rosewill Thor v2&cm_re=Rosewill_Thor_v2-_-11-147-053-_-Product

Since I'm going for such a massive rad, and since this case does not out-of-the-box support me hanging the rad on the side of the case, I'm planning to use something like this:

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/50601

That way I can put the MO-RA3 on feet outside, along with the pump(s) and reservoir(s).

And, for reference, I will probably go with an EK pure copper waterblock for Radeon VII, since the Bykski block seems to feature nickel plating by default. EK has a copper one:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vector-radeon-vii-copper-acetal

Not sure if I'd be better off with acetal or plexi, but I'm leaning towards acetal.

I have a bunch of questions, since I am a WC noob, but first I'd like to see if anyone's actually going to respond in this thread, and go from there. I'll start a separate thread if there are no responses here. I'm not 100% set on getting all my products from Watercool.de, but if that proves to be advantageous, then I'm willing to give them a go.

 

[guskline]

Dr.Mr.LordX, I have a MO-RA3 420 Pro with the feet attached. I use Koolance quik release couplings with clear 1/2"ID/2/4"OD tubing. I have 9 XSPC 140mm fans attached to one side and control them via a fan controller.

Right now I am not using the MO-RA3 as I am air cooling the gpu and I'm using a Kraken X72 for my 9900k. My 5960x rig has 3 480mm rads housed inside a X9 thermaltake case so no need for the MO-RA3.

It is a stoudt rad that works well with a single D5 pump but I have used 2 D5s in series. Helps dop the temps a degree or two but the rad has so much capacity that it isn't needed.

You can attach the pump externally to the MO-RA3 case or mount it in your case. I have used the pump internally mounted with great results.

If you have specific questions about the MO-RA3 you can send me a PM.

 

[guskline]

I also will caution you to be careful whatever gpu block you use for the RAD VII. This is because the surface area of the gpu/HBM2 module may not be perfectly level. I think this is the reason AMD is using the thermal pad instead of thermal paste. I had a problem and had to RMA my first RAD VII within 2 weeks of attaching my waterblock. It could have been for other reasons but I worry about that uneven surface on the Rad VII gpu/memory module.

If I would watercool my replacement Rad VII I probably would use the Kryonaut thermal pad if and when it becomes available or make ABSOLUTELY the gpu/HBM2 module is perfectly flat.

 

[DrMrLordX]

@guskline

Thanks for the info! I'm not sure how well the EK waterblock will fit the HBM2 and GPU since, as you say, they do not seem to be perfectly level. If the block has proper countours then I don't see it being a problem. Otherwise, a thin spacer might be necessary for the GPU since I think the HBM2 dice are "higher"? I might have to ask EK about this problem.

My general plan was to mount the MO-RA3 externally, use either 9 or 18 fans on it (undecided; 18 fans might be overkill), and get the brackets so that I can mount the integrated D5+res combos on either side of the rad to get everything mounted outside the case. Then it's just an issue of figuring out how to get power properly to everything and make sure it turns on with the system. Plus I've never built a custom WC rig before, so I'm going to need advice on proper fittings, tubings, etc. I'll have to do lots of reading.

@aigomorla

Got any advice to add? See above:

http://www.portvapes.co.uk/?id=Latest-exam-1Z0-876-Dumps&exid=thread...ome-in-and-chat-with-me.2471503/post-39832214

You seem like you would understand some of my wishes since I want to go the kill coil route and I want to avoid any nickel in my loop. What should I start buying to make all this happen? Assuming I run a fairly simple loop of D5+res -> rad -> D5+res -> CPU -> GPU -> D5+res (etc). Do you think the watercool site would be a good one-stop shop, or should I be looking for parts outside of the Heatkiller IV and MO-RA3 on other sites?

 

[guskline]

I actually bought my MO-RA3-420 Pro off of a person on Ebay who had bought it new From Watercool to build for a customer but the customer backed out. I got it for a great price and it has been steller. The tubes are copper but the fins are aluminum. No chance of aluminum contamination so you are fine.

I always used a Kill coil in my loop and ONLY used distilled water. My first loop with it was cooling a 3960 cpu and dual AMD R9 290s. They used EK copper waterblocks and the MO-RA3 420 (uses 9 140mm fans while the MO-RA3 uses 9 120 mm fans).

I then used it for my 5960x and single GTX1080TI until I decided to go with 3 480 mm XSPC rads housed internally in a Thermaltake Core X9 case (like a mini refrig!).

I next used the MO-RA3-420 with my 2700x/Rad VII rig.

Recently I moved to a 9900k rig and am awaiting an EVGA GTX 2080 TI Black gpu.

Decided to use an AIO Kraken X72 (360mm rad) cooler for the 9900k and keep the gpu air cooled.

The MO-RA3 420 Pro is idle at the moment but I'm keeping it.

I have always heard good things about Watercool. I personally buy a number of items from Performance PC out of Florida. They carry a vast array of watercooling parts and I have always gotten good service from them.

With rare exception I have used EK for my waterblocks. However, from what I have read and seen, Watercool makes premium cpu/gpu blocks so you won't go wrong using them.

I have always used flexible tubing (1/2"ID;3/4"OD) but many builders now use rigid tubing.

As far as properly powering the pump and fans externally, if you look on the Performance PC site or call them, they can guide you on what cables to purchase.

I used a quality fan controller and purchased 1 to 3 cable splitters to power the external fans. you will also need fan extension cables. Be sure your fans can work on a 3 to 1 ratio (be sure each channel on the fan controller has enough power to run 3 fans.

9 fans on one side of the MO-Ra3 is plenty. In fact, with the fan controller setup, you can slow down the fans and crank them up if you need more cooling. Trust me the MO-RA3-420 Pro is a brute with plenty of thermal capacity.

Hope this info helps

 

[DrMrLordX]

@guskline

Sadly Watercool.de does not have a Radeon VII block. So I'm going with EK to get an all-copper block (Bykski has a nice nickel-plated one, but I don't want any nickel).

 

[DrMrLordX]

update: looks like the EK block for Radeon VII does not perform well, and the Bykski does. So I'm going to have to nix my copper-only requirement and maybe switch from a kill coil to cupramine. Might also switch to the nickel Heatkiller IV since it seems to bench better than the copper one (not sure why?).