kalipoo2000
Senior member
- Sep 8, 2003
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thanks - filled out the forms, response said will contact me with in 2 to 4 days. looks like 5.375% for 30 year. drops my interest a little.
Originally posted by: kassaam
Anyone try this recently and get better than 5.375% for 30 year fixed? I just got my 'Truth in Lending' statement from Wells that I have to return.
Originally posted by: fdisk2003
Be careful about these types of loans. Sometimes, "no closing costs" means no costs incurred with the lender. But you *might* still be liable for other costs such as appraisals, title insurance etc. Make sure Citibank is paying for all these third part expenses before you jump on this.
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Also, if your comparison shopping, sometimes no closing costs means that they'll just roll them into the loan for you. So, no out of pocket cost at the time, but you pay for it over time.
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ok question
is the wells fargo loan link..
1. paying for all these 3rd party expenses?
2. just rolling them into the loan?
3. is there a pmi or not? i have been at my current location about 1.5 yrs, and are paying pmi
4. can we pay off early, or pay extra monthly towards the principal?
thanks
Originally posted by: Cocophone
My question for anybody that has done this is:
Did you loan balance go up by more than the interest amount for the payments not paid during the time from the old loan until the new loan payments start.
If its really no costs then you loan balance should go up only for the interest payments you miss.
==Cocophone==
Originally posted by: PHL1365
Originally posted by: kassaam
Superhot, this will be my 3rd time taking advantage of this 'Rate Reduction Refinance' offer from Wells Fargo. I went from 6.625% -> 6.00% -> 5.75% and now, 5.375%. This refi is a nobrainer, no out of pocket and a very competitive rate. Check out this refi calculator and plug in the numbers to compare this product with loans that have fees but lower rates. You may be surprised how long it might take to actually start saving money by taking the loan with less interest. Cheers!
Very good observations. One other thing to keep in mind, closing costs are not tax deductible, IIRC. And if you pay points to get a lower rate, the points are deductible , but they must be amortized over the entire length of the loan (for refi's). Thus, if you sell the house in five years, lets say, you never get to deduct most of the cost of the points.
Granted, this doesn't amount to a huge amount of money, but certainly something to consider when you're calculating the cost/benefits of points vs. no points and traditional refi's vs. no cost refi's.
Unless you're rock-solid certain that you will keep your home for the time it takes to recoup the cost of refinancing, no-cost refi's with a slightly higher interest rate is the way to go. It's that old "bird-in-hand" thing.
Correct. "No Cost" loans never include recurring closing costs, i.e. your property tax and homeowners insurance impounds.Originally posted by: KATX
Well, not quite. It depends whether your old escrow balance is given to you immediately (credited to your old lean pay off amount immediately) or later. If the former, then your loan amount also increase by the amount of your new needed escrow amount or you have to pay the same upfront.Originally posted by: Cocophone
My question for anybody that has done this is:
Did you loan balance go up by more than the interest amount for the payments not paid during the time from the old loan until the new loan payments start.
If its really no costs then you loan balance should go up only for the interest payments you miss.
==Cocophone==
Originally posted by: Cocophone
My question for anybody that has done this is:
Did you loan balance go up by more than the interest amount for the payments not paid during the time from the old loan until the new loan payments start.
If its really no costs then you loan balance should go up only for the interest payments you miss.
==Cocophone==
Edit: I hope some of you people who are only saving $60/mo. realize that you are re-amortizing your loan.
Originally posted by: Dogbertt
Edit: I hope some of you people who are only saving $60/mo. realize that you are re-amortizing your loan.
Yes I am only saving $60 but I do not intend to lower my payment. So that's $60 toward P of my P&I and less 'I' I pay every month. I'm not extending my loan but I am shortening my time with it. The Wells Fargo loan has no Pre Pay or Catches (Unless they added it I will keep a look out). FYI I refi-d about 9 months ago so this is even a better deal for me.
edit: I hope some of you people who are only saving $60/mo. realize that you are re-amortizing your loan. For example, let's assume that you have monthly P&I payments of $1,000 and that you have paid on your existing 30 year loan for 24 months (2 years) already. You save $60 per month with your new loan, bringing your new payment down to $940, but you are adding 2 years back onto your loan going back to 30 years. Saving $60 per month saves you $20,160 over the next 28 years, but adding on those 24 more months of $940 will cost you $22,560 (this monthly savings that becomes a long-term loss is known as the "banker's secret"). In addition, the $60 off your monthly payment is all interest, meaning that your mortgage interest tax deduction will be $720 less in the 1st year of your mortgage alone. Assuming a low 15% tax bracket, that means you'll pay about $108 more in taxes next year.
You might want to re-think that "easy math".
1. True. Or ideally even shorter. But most people don't do such a thing voluntarily. Others may find out that the rate improvement was so slight, that the only real benefit of the refinance was the reamortization.Originally posted by: KATX
Well, I agree with your math but not quite with your conclusions.
1. In your example the person can increase their payments on their own just enough to cause the mortgage to last only 28 years.
2. I do not believe this so called "banker's secret". You seem to imply that bankers prefer a 30 year mortgage over a 28 year one when both have the same interest rate. If this were true, interest rates for 30 year mortgages would have been lower than those for 15 year mortgages. But they are not.
3. Losing interest deduction when your rate goes down is like your income taxes increasing when you get a raise. But no one rejects a raise.
Originally posted by: Vic
Correct. "No Cost" loans never include recurring closing costs, i.e. your property tax and homeowners insurance impounds.Originally posted by: KATX
Well, not quite. It depends whether your old escrow balance is given to you immediately (credited to your old lean pay off amount immediately) or later. If the former, then your loan amount also increase by the amount of your new needed escrow amount or you have to pay the same upfront.Originally posted by: Cocophone
My question for anybody that has done this is:
Did you loan balance go up by more than the interest amount for the payments not paid during the time from the old loan until the new loan payments start.
If its really no costs then you loan balance should go up only for the interest payments you miss.
==Cocophone==
*Lock Today*. In fact, you should have locked yesterday.
Originally posted by: KATX
edit: I hope some of you people who are only saving $60/mo. realize that you are re-amortizing your loan. For example, let's assume that you have monthly P&I payments of $1,000 and that you have paid on your existing 30 year loan for 24 months (2 years) already. You save $60 per month with your new loan, bringing your new payment down to $940, but you are adding 2 years back onto your loan going back to 30 years. Saving $60 per month saves you $20,160 over the next 28 years, but adding on those 24 more months of $940 will cost you $22,560 (this monthly savings that becomes a long-term loss is known as the "banker's secret"). In addition, the $60 off your monthly payment is all interest, meaning that your mortgage interest tax deduction will be $720 less in the 1st year of your mortgage alone. Assuming a low 15% tax bracket, that means you'll pay about $108 more in taxes next year.
You might want to re-think that "easy math".
Well, I agree with your math but not quite with your conclusions.
1. In your example the person can increase their payments on their own just enough to cause the mortgage to last only 28 years.
2. I do not believe this so called "banker's secret". You seem to imply that bankers prefer a 30 year mortgage over a 28 year one when both have the same interest rate. If this were true, interest rates for 30 year mortgages would have been lower than those for 15 year mortgages. But they are not.
3. Losing interest deduction when your rate goes down is like your income taxes increasing when you get a raise. But no one rejects a raise.