What do you think a contractor would charge to frame out the basement?

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StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
5
0
Originally posted by: edro
Most measurement units are identically accurate, except for Biblical units based on human appendages.
I don't want to spoil my thread so I'm holding in a joke, but it's hard.
 

runzwithsizorz

Diamond Member
Jan 24, 2002
3,500
14
76
Originally posted by: Skoorb
Originally posted by: edro
Most measurement units are identically accurate, except for Biblical units based on human appendages.
I don't want to spoil my thread so I'm holding in a joke, but it's hard.


Ok, fine than I'll spoil it. And the lord god sayeth unto Skoorb, "you must build me a basement, make it 18 cubits, by 9 cubits, by 4 cubits.
 

skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
22,222
5,084
146
There is another way to look at a possible egress widow.
On one hand, it is:
A)An expensive PITA
B)A possible security worry, although you can get into a house any number of other places.
On the other hand it will:
A)Allow natural light in.
B) Transform a 'cave' into a nice room.
C) Provide for some natural cross-ventilation.
 

runzwithsizorz

Diamond Member
Jan 24, 2002
3,500
14
76
Since Skoorb is wanting to build a bedroom, *WITH*, a closet, code requires he replace the window he has with one that allows escape. I may be able to help him with that,(among other things). recently I removed a window to install a doorway. Window is aprox. 58" tall, 34"wide. It is new, and a duel pane. It is one of the many things I have saved in my many years working in the trade, and is all down in my basement gathering dust. Some things Skoorb may be interested in, new, but run of the mill, toilets, seats, shower rods, curtains, vanity mirrors, lights, faucets, sink plumbing fixtures, medicine cabinets, towel, and toilet paper holders, tile for floor, and tub surround, exhaust fans, elec. outlet covers, door knobs, dry wall screws, my old hammer drill, my old compound miter saw,etc. I have other parts gathering dust, such as a $1500 set of bathtub fixtures, but Skoorb doesn't need this now, nor does he need a $250+ framing nailer to drive a few dozen nails! when he needs so much more, that will serve him now, and well into the future.
 

StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
5
0
Hi guys, I'm not sure where I left it, but I am now NOT building the bedroom in the large room with the tiny window; we're going to use the room with the already existing window that is large enough. At least the opening is, the window itself is demented and thus will need to be replaced with another one for a few hundred bucks, but the cutout is already there. The large far area we're going to keep as storage. This is somewhat unfortunate because it's a beautiful unobstructed rectangle, but we don't want to murder storage too much and that room would only be suitable if I cut out a window.

I've pretty much decided I will bash in the concrete now; I'm not going to do a raised bathroom. It's a little lazy and it will irritate me for as long as we live in the house to know I took the lazier route

Runzwithsizorz on your list I think I have everything except for shower rod and curtain, at least among the cheaper items. I am going to try and hold off on the framing nailer to at least see how nailing without one is. If I have to do a lot of toe nailing I think it will be easier with a framing nailer, but we'll see about holding off on it. I ended up buying a compound sliding 12" laser miter from harbor freight last weekend for $120. I did a lot of comparing among other ones and read experiences of some people online and this one seemed to do quite well. The closest approximation in a big box store was a $200 compound sliding 10" laser. I wanted a laser. I didn't actually want a 12" blade (replacements are crazy expensive), but harbor has no 10" laser ones. I believe sliding will rarely be of use but once in a blue moon I may be glad I have it. I already have a wet tile saw and a friend is lending me his hammer drill.

My neighbor used the cheap powder nailer for his bottom plates and I didn't like the result. He said it bucked hard and I could see many of the nails weren't driven all the way in, so I'll use the hammer drill. Maybe a trigger powder nailer would have given him better results, though.

I plan on documenting my entire process and maybe putting it in a PDF along with many pictures. I have yet to come across a single start->finish online guide about a basement. Closest thing I can find is in some books but they overemphasize certain things and under emphasize others.
 

bruceb

Diamond Member
Aug 20, 2004
8,874
111
106
Watch 10 episodes of holmes on homes and you should be good to go.

I enjoyed watching that show. But it is no longer carried on Cablevison
thanks to H&G screwing up their program choices. They need to bring it back and also add the DIY network. They have some nice, fun, and informative shows on that network.

As to your project, yes, studs on 16 inch centers. Be sure the basement does not have any water seepage. If it does, fix it before your finish it. A drop ceiling is the best choice, as there will be pipes, wires, ac / heat vents, water pipes, shut off valves, run thru the joists or across them and at some point you will need to get to them.
 

skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
22,222
5,084
146
Have you considered wiring upstairs? Once you close off the access to the space above, any changes will be in the range of impossible to really expensive
I'd plan any added power outlets that might make life easier, and wired network as well.
Just the geek in me but I really use my wired network. Having gigabit really knocks the crap out of wireless.

I would not even use nails in the bottom plate myself, I'd use a hammerdrill and wedge anchors.
http://www.concretefasteners.c...rstud-wedge/index.aspx
It will take a little longer but that plate will be as firm as possible.
 

DontMindMe

Banned
Apr 14, 2009
111
0
0
Originally posted by: skyking
Have you considered wiring upstairs? once you close off the access to the space above, any changes will be impossible to really expensive.
I'd plan any added power outlets that might make life easier, and wired network as well.
Just the geek in me but I really use my wired network. Having gigabit really knocks the crap out of wireless.

I would not even use nails in the bottom plate myself, I'd use a hammerdrill and wedge anchors.
http://www.concretefasteners.c...rstud-wedge/index.aspx
It will take a little longer but that plate will be as firm as possible.



IMO drop ins or redheads would be an over kill. Construction adhesive and tapcons would suffice.
 

StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
5
0
I'd plan any added power outlets that might make life easier, and wired network as well.
Just the geek in me but I really use my wired network. Having gigabit really knocks the crap out of wireless.
I really do hate the look of the dropped ceiling, though. Assuming I can do this myself if I need to get at things I'll just have to do a little wrecking I will have access panels for absolutely everything as required by code and where it's not required I'll have pictures/measurements if I have to get at things in the future to minimize ceiling damage. I also plan to lay as much wiring as possible even if I don't think I need it, including some network throughout the second floor.
 

skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
22,222
5,084
146
Originally posted by: Skoorb
I'd plan any added power outlets that might make life easier, and wired network as well.
Just the geek in me but I really use my wired network. Having gigabit really knocks the crap out of wireless.
I really do hate the look of the dropped ceiling, though. Assuming I can do this myself if I need to get at things I'll just have to do a little wrecking I will have access panels for absolutely everything as required by code and where it's not required I'll have pictures/measurements if I have to get at things in the future to minimize ceiling damage. I also plan to lay as much wiring as possible even if I don't think I need it, including some network throughout the second floor.

That's what I'm talking about, get it in there first before the rock.
 

StageLeft

No Lifer
Sep 29, 2000
70,150
5
0
basement.jpg

These are the "final" plans. Recently decided against the standalone bedroom primarily because although the basement can fit one we're starting to impact the more commonly used space, i.e. the "rec room". Thus the bedroom has to go in the office area. Of course egress there is literally impossible, so we will go with a open U-shaped approach. In the future the addition of a single wall and an extra door would turn the right of the rec room into a bedroom anyway if somebody wanted one, but we have 4 bedrooms as it is and that rec room with walkout and large egress window now will make it a really nice space. If you see the "hallway" below the furnace, our idea to save on space but still have a bedroom closet was to have that doored on each end with a closet hanger. This way when guests visit they'd have a closet. We were going to have a small door at the bottom of where the office area is, leading beside the furnace for access back there when guests are around but now with the office area being the de facto bedroom this is moot.

Got the permit, got a big sledge hammer and masonry blades and air filters and respirator and the work starts this week with excavating the concrete slab for the bathroom.

Also replacing all the fiberglass blanket insulation with current best-practice of rigid foam flush against the foundation wall and either then unfaced fiberglass batts with no vapor barrier in the stud walls or nothing in the cavities if I go thick enough on the rigid foam.
 
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