What type of oil you put in your vehicle and why?

[kitatech]

When I bought my Tribute in July of 2013 and I did my first oil change the oil was BLACK as Black could be. It was really bad. The engine sure took a licking I bet but for how long?

A couple questions if I may.....

1) How long before you change your fuel and air filters? You go by miles or months?

2) My Aunt uses regular oil in her Geo Tracker but she drives less than 2,000 miles a year. Should she change the oil every 6 months still? Or yearly?

You can't gauge the effectiveness of an oil by its color.
Change filters every 2 years.
Change all fluids every 3-4 years....and change them (brake fluid, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, and coolant) upon purchasing any used car.
Change oil every 6 months on a car driven fewer than 2k miles as that likely means it was driven for A LOT OF SHORT TRIPS...

If you change oil in 6 months/fewer than 5k miles, ANY BRAND NAME SN-RATED OIL SPECIFIED FOR YOUR CAR will be fine....ANY BRAND, whether conventional or synthetic....just add oil if needed to keep it above half-way between L and F on the dipstick...that will be added insurance and comfort for you.

End of story.

 

[Jimzz]

I used the cheapest name brand oil that meets the weight I am looking for. Most likely 5w30.

For most cars conventional is fine. Syn only makes sense for those driving air cooled engines, really supped up motors (no your fart can and k&n filter do not count), and those wanting to extend their drain intervals.

I use a lot of high mileage oil now since it does not cost to much over conventional but has a better ad pack.

But in all my mechanic years I have never seen a motor fail because someone used conventional or syn or xyz brand. Oil issues are either due to not having enough of it or using it to long (like 30k on 1 oil change type to much not 6k instead of 5k changing).

 

[Zargon]

You have to know the specific weight and type of oil to say. I don't think that all of Mobil 1's "synthetic" oils were ever true synthetics.

now they have SUPER mobil 1 that's full syn they say, I just ended my relationship with Mobil 1, I use regular in my truck and change every 2k, and since I got start fresh with the new van I went to Valvoline full synthetic

I generally go with the manufacturer specified weight and viscosity unless I have a good reason to do otherwise

if I was going to drive my truck across the country towing something I would probably run 15w rotella syn for it since it would be such a strenuous trip

when I was racing I did not run the rec'd oil from the manufacturer in 2 of my cars, because I would get blow by with the rec'd 5w-30

 

[Jimzz]

now they have SUPER mobil 1 that's full syn they say, I just ended my relationship with Mobil 1, I use regular in my truck and change every 2k, and since I got start fresh with the new van I went to Valvoline full synthetic

I generally go with the manufacturer specified weight and viscosity unless I have a good reason to do otherwise

if I was going to drive my truck across the country towing something I would probably run 15w rotella syn for it since it would be such a strenuous trip

when I was racing I did not run the rec'd oil from the manufacturer in 2 of my cars, because I would get blow by with the rec'd 5w-30

WHAT!?!? Why? Even basic oil should last 5k/1year in most cars/trucks.

 

[Remobz]

I used the cheapest name brand oil that meets the weight I am looking for. Most likely 5w30.

For most cars conventional is fine. Syn only makes sense for those driving air cooled engines, really supped up motors (no your fart can and k&n filter do not count), and those wanting to extend their drain intervals.

I use a lot of high mileage oil now since it does not cost to much over conventional but has a better ad pack.

But in all my mechanic years I have never seen a motor fail because someone used conventional or syn or xyz brand. Oil issues are either due to not having enough of it or using it to long (like 30k on 1 oil change type to much not 6k instead of 5k changing).

I used this oil in my last oil and filter change in Jan. 2014.

Castrol GTX with Tri-Shield Technology
Superior Deposit Protection*

http://www.oilcanhenrys.com/services/castrol_gtx_with_trishield_technology


I used the 10W-30 grade but will switch to 5W-30 for my next oil change. Although, its not synthetic it still has some good additives inside and I will do an oil change soon anyway.

Should I switch to a high mileage oil you think?

My vehicle has about 140,000 miles on it.

 

[pauldun170]

I used this oil in my last oil and filter change in Jan. 2014.

Castrol GTX with Tri-Shield Technology
Superior Deposit Protection*

http://www.oilcanhenrys.com/services/castrol_gtx_with_trishield_technology


I used the 10W-30 grade but will switch to 5W-30 for my next oil change. Although, its not synthetic it still has some good additives inside and I will do an oil change soon anyway.

Should I switch to a high mileage oil you think?

My vehicle has about 140,000 miles on it.

Does your car leak or burn oil?
If it doesn't, just stick to oil that meets the manufacturer recommendation.

 

[Hail The Brain Slug]

I only use Mobil-1 Extended Performance 5w-30 in my Cruze. GM specifies an ACDelco synthetic blend but between the turbo and the oil life monitor lasting 10,000 miles before recommending an oil change, I started using synthetic. Makes the eco-tic a bit louder, but other than that I pick it up at Wal Mart for $26/5quarts.

If I had the naturally aspirated 1.8L, I might not care.

 

[Jimzz]

I used this oil in my last oil and filter change in Jan. 2014.

Castrol GTX with Tri-Shield Technology
Superior Deposit Protection*

http://www.oilcanhenrys.com/services/castrol_gtx_with_trishield_technology


I used the 10W-30 grade but will switch to 5W-30 for my next oil change. Although, its not synthetic it still has some good additives inside and I will do an oil change soon anyway.

Should I switch to a high mileage oil you think?

My vehicle has about 140,000 miles on it.

You can, it will not hurt. HM oils now are mostly a semi-syn base stock with a stronger Ad pack that normally goes in the Syns. Since you can get the High Milage for only a hair more cost I run it primarily.
I have Castrol and Valvoline HM oil in my stash right now. Both seem to work fine. I buy which ever is cheaper.

You can get a $6 off coupon for 2 5qt jugs of Valvoline HM Maxlife oil from walmart at Coupons.com. So around $13 for 5qts of HM oil. I prefer 5w30 over 10w30 unless you have leaks or other issues.

 

[Dr. Detroit]

5W-20 Synth Blend (Ford Motorcraft)

0W-40- Mobil 1 European Car Formula

Both are recommended by the car manufacturers and came with that oil in it from the factory.

 

[phucheneh]

I would use whatever the motor is spec'd for.

Generally the engineers are not idiots and choose an oil (and design around it) for rational reasons.

I guess it's a new month, so we're due for this argument again.

As usual, I will point out that there are countless examples of manufacturers using the same family of engines, with the same bearing clearances, same size oil passages, same valvetrain designs, ect, for many years...and somehow, they were spec'd for 5w30 or 5w20 one year...then the next year, the same engine is 5w20 or 0w20.

And, of course, there is the simple fact that a select few manufacturers still list multiple weights for the same engine. Hell, I've seen BMW list 5w30, 0w40, 5w40, and 10w40 for a single car. OH, THE HUGE MANATEE. SURELY ONE OF THOSE OILS WILL CAUSE INSTANT ENGINE FAILURE.

In some other cases, manufacturers will sell cars in regions outside the US with a similar range of viscosities. The owners manual often has a chart for identifying which oils are compatible with your climate. In the US, of course, this is too much for people to handle, so it's often changed to a single specified weight. Doesn't matter whether the car is sold in Florida or Alaska.

http://my-gti.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/engoil_gas.pdf

Why...that's insanity! Multiple grades accepted?! Heresy!

I could probably find similar recommendations from any other European manufacturer. Engines aren't magic and physics are a constant. Just FYI.

You run no risk of hurting a car by using 5w20 instead of 0w20 unless you are already on the ragged edge of the lower temp limits of the latter oil. 5w20 vs 5w30 is an even sillier debate, made more humorous by the fact that many small shops or quickie lube places only buy bulk oil in one weight. If you owned a car with 5w20 on the cap five years ago and brought it somewhere for $20 oil changes, there is an extremely high likelihood you got 5w30. Every time. Hot DAMN would there be a lot of toasted engines out there if this stuff mattered as much as some profess it to.

Am I saying that you should intentionally go against the manufacturer recs? Nope. Just stating that the opinion of 'oh noes 5w30 in a 5w20 will blow your engine up and void your warranty!' is utterly asinine.

 

[phucheneh]

Oh, and what I'm also NOT saying: that engine design as a whole has not seen a gradual shift toward lighter oils. It surely has.

In the 80's, a car may have had a general recommendation for 10w30 or 10w40 to cover the widest range of climates. 15w40 or even 20w50 would also be acceptable, depending on engine operating conditions. 5w20 or 5w30 would verge on being too thin in non-arctic conditions.

No, you shouldn't use those same recommendations on modern cars...but the variance is still there. 5w20 and 5w30 now cover the widest range of climates in most engines.

 

[mvbighead]

I was going to say something similar to phucheneh. The general gist, to me any way, is that the manual is going to tell you what the average conditions will require. Not only that, but the manuals (in many cases) are just going to select the type/weight that best suits the majority of those conditions, and leave that as the simple solution for all conditions with 0 variables.

Problem is, there are many cars and drivers who vary greatly from the average. Some cars are driven in really cold climates, some in very warm climates. Some guys drive extremely hard, some drive very reserved.

Heck, my car calls for 5w30 in normal weather conditions and 10w30 in warmer conditions. It's all just a matter of:

1) Reading the manual.

2) Deviating slightly from the manual to account for the 'extreme' conditions you expect to encounter.

By and large, RTFM and use judgement. If your engine calls for 0w20, don't substitute with 20w50 when the weather is 10 degrees warmer.

 

[Jimzz]

That and CAFE is what effects the lower weight oil in the US vs the other weights the same motors see outside the US.

 

[Zargon]

WHAT!?!? Why? Even basic oil should last 5k/1year in most cars/trucks.

I only do about 5k per year, and I do a bit of hauling and towing.

its called cheap insurance.

it also gets me under the truck and hood poking around a few times a year, to notice other issues


and no, my truck is not spec'd at 5k conventional oil changes

I was about 500 from an oil change the last time a friend borrowed it to tow, and I just asked him to drain and fill the oil, and let the filter go to the next since my interval is so short, and I run mobil 1 filters, though that will change now that I don't buy Mobil 1 anymore(was using them because I got a discount on them when buying the 5 qt bottles for my wifes astra)

 

[Fritzo]

I usually use either Castrol GTX or Mobil 1. Weight depends on the time of year.

 

[mirageracerx]

The people making the engine know what they're doing, owners usually don't.

BAHAHAHA! working as a mechanic for 3+ years i disagree. auto engineers make huge mistakes with their designs and make it a PITA to fix with some vehicles. Hence why some aftermarket manufacturers redesign parts to retrofit in vehicles to improve on their mistakes.

in your defense though, they typically know more than your average consumer. so statement is half true.

Valvoline synthetic my weapon of choice. 5w30. in reference to OP, changing to what is recommended OR exceeding recommended specs are advised. it really depends what you are trying to do with the car. is it a throw away car you will use and abuse (bare recommended minimum)? or is it a car you want to keep the rest of your life (synthetic)?

Also it will state in the user's manual or MSI how long you can go with/without an oil change. some cars in ideal climates can go 7500 miles while that same car in extreme conditions can go only 2500 miles before service, which really cant be contested in a warranty claim.

 

[Belegost]

I put 0W-40 Mobil 1 in the Benz since it's on the recommended list and with a supercharged engine tolerances are less forgiving.

For the wife's Versa, 5w-30 syn blend in the winter, 10w-30 in the summer - mostly because Nissan's solid lifters are bloody loud (probably time to check if it needs shims), and the 10w helps quiet it, but I want something thinner when it's sub-freezing.

 

[Remobz]

BAHAHAHA! working as a mechanic for 3+ years i disagree. auto engineers make huge mistakes with their designs and make it a PITA to fix with some vehicles. Hence why some aftermarket manufacturers redesign parts to retrofit in vehicles to improve on their mistakes.

in your defense though, they typically know more than your average consumer. so statement is half true.

Valvoline synthetic my weapon of choice. 5w30. in reference to OP, changing to what is recommended OR exceeding recommended specs are advised. it really depends what you are trying to do with the car. is it a throw away car you will use and abuse (bare recommended minimum)? or is it a car you want to keep the rest of your life (synthetic)?

Also it will state in the user's manual or MSI how long you can go with/without an oil change. some cars in ideal climates can go 7500 miles while that same car in extreme conditions can go only 2500 miles before service, which really cant be contested in a warranty claim.

I am asking every mechanic about their own personal opinions on this matter for a general consensus.

It is a USED car (2003 mazda tribute) with over 140,000 miles that I would like to keep as long as I can before it completely dies. Winter IS NOT A FACTOR since its a year round tropical climate with high humidity and heat.

I have no Mazda dealers here but there is a Ford one. The Ford dealership INSISTS I put 5W-20 synthetic oil and change it every 3 months with regular oil. Actually, the Toyota and Isuzu dealerships insist that an oil change should be done every 3 months with regular oil and no longer than 6 months with synthetic.

I asked Ford dealership about 5W-30 synthetic because of the year round high humidity and winter less climate but they still insisted on the 5W-20 although my vehicle is second hand with NO warranty. Another mechanic (street mechanic) said that 5W-20 is more for winter type climates unlike where I live.

 

[Jimzz]

I am asking every mechanic about their own personal opinions on this matter for a general consensus.

It is a USED car (2003 mazda tribute) with over 140,000 miles that I would like to keep as long as I can before it completely dies. Winter IS NOT A FACTOR since its a year round tropical climate with high humidity and heat.

I have no Mazda dealers here but there is a Ford one. The Ford dealership INSISTS I put 5W-20 synthetic oil and change it every 3 months with regular oil. Actually, the Toyota and Isuzu dealerships insist that an oil change should be done every 3 months with regular oil and no longer than 6 months with synthetic.

I asked Ford dealership about 5W-30 synthetic because of the year round high humidity and winter less climate but they still insisted on the 5W-20 although my vehicle is second hand with NO warranty. Another mechanic (street mechanic) said that 5W-20 is more for winter type climates unlike where I live.

I would run a 5w30 High Mileage oil year round. Change it every 5000miles or once a year.
Don't over think it or waste money changing due to a dealer wanting more of your money.

 

[mirageracerx]

The Ford dealership INSISTS I put 5W-20 synthetic oil and change it every 3 months with regular oil.

5w-20 is a lighter weight oil. if you arent worried about warranty, i still would switch to the 5w-30 synthetic. that is what it was rated for. while i understand the idea it needs to be changed every 3 months (time for viscosity to change) and every 3k miles. it becomes 2nd nature to preach it as most people are taught that when first learning about vehicles. but still, your car is rated for 5k between changes. so if mileage was a concern you should be able to go that long. as for the every 3 months, i would still keep with that, it should be done as the oil changes as it ages after use. but i would sooner stay with 5w-30 as oppose to 5w-20 as lighter weight oil may cause leaks longer down the line.

 

[pauldun170]

I am asking every mechanic about their own personal opinions on this matter for a general consensus.

It is a USED car (2003 mazda tribute) with over 140,000 miles that I would like to keep as long as I can before it completely dies. Winter IS NOT A FACTOR since its a year round tropical climate with high humidity and heat.

I have no Mazda dealers here but there is a Ford one. The Ford dealership INSISTS I put 5W-20 synthetic oil and change it every 3 months with regular oil. Actually, the Toyota and Isuzu dealerships insist that an oil change should be done every 3 months with regular oil and no longer than 6 months with synthetic.

I asked Ford dealership about 5W-30 synthetic because of the year round high humidity and winter less climate but they still insisted on the 5W-20 although my vehicle is second hand with NO warranty. Another mechanic (street mechanic) said that 5W-20 is more for winter type climates unlike where I live.

Your answer is listed clearly in the owners manual.
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2365160

As per the 2003 Ford Escape

Normal Schedule: 5,000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first.
Special Operating Conditions: 3,000 miles, 3 months, or 200 hours of engine
operation, whichever occurs first. See appropriate schedule on page 37.

SAE 5W-20 engine oil is recommended.
Only use oils Certified For Gasoline Engines by the American
Petroleum Institute (API). Use Motorcraft or an equivalent oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153

If you see the included service schedule it will clearly state the oil change intervals.

Your Tribute should take regular 5W20 oil.
Unless you spend all day stop and go traffic on dusty dirt roads towing a boat while operating as a drag racing taxi service you can follow the 5,000 miles or 6 months interval.

If your owners manual has another weight listed then you can go with that weight.
You do not need any special oil.
You do not need synthetic
You do not need High Mileage (unless there is an issue with oil consumption or leaks)


Why are you ignoring your owners manual?

 

[razel]

The consensus at bobistheoilguy is to buy whatever SN rated oil is on sale from any of the major manufacturers.

Current SN rated oils (you'll see this rating in the API doughnut at the back of the bottle) whether conventional or synthetic are fantastic. The performance line between conventional and synthetic started to get blurry 10 years ago when SL rated oils came out. We are two generations further. Only buy synthetic if the price difference is little AND you go past 10k mile oil intervals and have proven to yourself through oil analysis that it's safe to do so.

Only go thicker if have a leak and don't want to spend the money to fix it.

 

[pauldun170]

Secondly, I live in a tropical climate with ZERO...I repeat ZERO cold weather or winters. Cold is not an issue here.

On the other hand, its very hot here and especially this summer, today reached 94F and was extremely hot.

It doesn't matter if its 75F out or 110F out.
Your engine is still going to be the same temperature.
That's why liquid cooling is there for.

Unless you are dealing with freezing climbs dipping into the single digits or sub zero temperatures, don't worry about temperature and oil type.

 

[Zargon]

It doesn't matter if its 75F out or 110F out.
Your engine is still going to be the same temperature.
That's why liquid cooling is there for.

Unless you are dealing with freezing climbs dipping into the single digits or sub zero temperatures, don't worry about temperature and oil type.

dear god this is so wrong on a basic level

tell me liquid cooled aprilia that, it hates ambients over 85F unless its moving above 40mph

 

[pauldun170]

dear god this is so wrong on a basic level

tell me liquid cooled aprilia that, it hates ambients over 85F unless its moving above 40mph

How does that have anything to do with the type of oil?

You are talking about air temperature impact (air density) impact on performance.

If your bike is being being operated on 100F what does your temp gauge say vs operating at 75F?

Since my thermostat works properly my temps stay within the same range.