Which drill should I buy?

[notposting]

Ignore the urge to go all Tim Taylor and buy the biggest, heaviest thing possible.

I had already started grunting during the reading of this thread. *grunts*

MOAH POWAH

 

[rudeguy]

Some of us on here aren't IT pro's. I'm in electrical, think we've seen a carpenter, tin knocker, and pipe fitter in here.

One thing many people on here have learned is to use quality products. For me, I'm used to Dewalt and satisfied by it, so it's what I can recommend. If you asked me about hand tools I would have my own opinions there, though I understand people may not want to pay $20+ per pair of pliers

I haven't really used the other brands of cordless tools. In general it's been Dewalt 18V with nicad, one thing I will say is the capacity is pretty damn good on those.




Also, "giant 18v Dewalts"? Bro do you lift???!?! :sneaky:

There is something to be said about nice pliers. I have a set for work that are like magic. But I also have a couple sets of $3 Harbor Freight ones at home that do the job.

I have used lots of brands, types and price ranges of drills and drivers. Everyone has their needs and different bodies need different things. Just because you sling wire and like Dewalt doesn't mean that I'm wrong because I like Makita and I...damn my job is hard to describe. I use lots of different kinds of tools, and we will leave it at that.

Different strokes for different folks. If one size fit all, buying a fleshlight would be a lot easier.

 

[phucheneh]

Also, "giant 18v Dewalts"? Bro do you lift???!?! :sneaky:

Dewalt just generally seems to make the chunkiest tools. They have more compact models now, I think.

Yep, I lift. Power tools. Every day. ;P That's why I thought it was worst mentioning that I use the tiny little piss-ant Makitas over anything else for 95% of stuff. The little impact is very stout for its size. The drill isn't very torquey, and is mostly just used as a screwdriver...but that's what most people use drills for around the house. Plus light drilling, which it also does fine. Basically, I whip out the bigger 14.4v for when I'm drilling metal. Or maybe driving screws into solid wood without pilots.

Haven't tested the small ones on that last thing. But the 'antiquated' 14.4v (a cheap model, at that) will sink the head of a wood screw way down into pine lumber before you can blink. Or just completely through drywall.

And yeah, I know not everyone here is an IT guy. Just an overwhelming number. I work on cars, for which my needs are different than a contractor, carpenter, or whatnot, but I can certainly evaluate the amount of abuse stuff can take. And how much fatigue it induces in the operator. [edit- and no, I don't drive wood screws into cars. Most of the time. :awe: I just do a lot of stuff at home, too, and it seems more relevant that how fast I can, say, gut the interior of a car with my 12v impact. And a plastic stick.]

 

[alkemyst]

If you really use your cordless tools you will appreciate not having to replace batteries nearly every year or two once you go Lithium. I rather pay 1.5-2x the cost up front than have to deal with not only a dying battery, but driving it to a battery disposal place.

 

[alkemyst]

Dewalt just generally seems to make the chunkiest tools. They have more compact models now, I think.

Yep, I lift. Power tools. Every day. ;P That's why I thought it was worst mentioning that I use the tiny little piss-ant Makitas over anything else for 95% of stuff. The little impact is very stout for its size. The drill isn't very torquey, and is mostly just used as a screwdriver...but that's what most people use drills for around the house. Plus light drilling, which it also does fine. Basically, I whip out the bigger 14.4v for when I'm drilling metal. Or maybe driving screws into solid wood without pilots.

Haven't tested the small ones on that last thing. But the 'antiquated' 14.4v (a cheap model, at that) will sink the head of a wood screw way down into pine lumber before you can blink. Or just completely through drywall.

And yeah, I know not everyone here is an IT guy. Just an overwhelming number. I work on cars, for which my needs are different than a contractor, carpenter, or whatnot, but I can certainly evaluate the amount of abuse stuff can take. And how much fatigue it induces in the operator. [edit- and no, I don't drive wood screws into cars. Most of the time. :awe: I just do a lot of stuff at home, too, and it seems more relevant that how fast I can, say, gut the interior of a car with my 12v impact. And a plastic stick.]

I agreed about VOLTAGE just equals a tool really too big.

18V+ sledgehammer

14V+ hammer

<12V swiss army tool

Bigger drills are hard to work with in confined areas, also they take up a lot of bag space and add weight.

I want to eventually buy a high end low voltage drill for portability when all I am doing is removing screws and putting anchors into wood or drywall.

 

[Howard]

edit- and no, I don't drive wood screws into cars. Most of the time.

I remember some time ago there was a huge thread about a guy who got screwed by a body shop whose work included side skirts attached with drywall screws.

 

[natto fire]

Corded drills are worthless for the needs of most people. have fun with that five pound tool with a single speed trigger.

And anyone who says '18v Li-Ion, any brand' should not be listened to. You're prioritizing the least important things. Again, have fun with a chunky, awkward, poorly-functioning piece of shit.

The 12v Makitas are not supposed to have balls. They're supposed to be lightweight and convenient...but they still have enough balls for most purposes.

But I'll defer the the 'IT professional' crowd using giant 18v Dewalts and Milwaukees to drill holes in drywall or turn machine screws.

Corded does have an advantage in bang for the buck as far as consistent torque and reliability. I don't personally own one because my uses line up with cordless better, but I certainly don't write them off as worthless. If you were framing "most people" in the constraints of posters at this forum, then I agree, but "most" is still a weasel word, which can imply a wide range of percents starting at 51.

I've never been in IT, but when I informally entered the commercial electric field, I joined the M18 (Milwaukee's Li-ion lineup) cult on the basis the Hackzall looked very useful for cutting conduit and light demo work. It turned out to be pretty good, but I definitely saw more DeWalt, Bosch, Ridgid, on my jobs with the cordless. Some of my jobs involved store merchandisers, so I also have seen Ryobi, and Harbor Freight cordless tools (Chicago Electric, Drill Master, etc.).

I do like that when my original M18 impact was down, I was able to get parts for it and fix it for $16 dollars shipped. I was on a job and needed an immediate replacement, so I splurged on a Milwaukee Fuel impact driver kit with two batteries, which is in another class IMO. It is good and bad because it will drive fasteners in very quickly, but will destroy weaker fasteners just one or two impacts after bottoming out. I have probably busted 15 or so tapcons, and at least twice as many self tappers while going in to tough steel.

I use my M12 impact to take care of smaller jobs like removing cover plates, and other tasks not involving structural steel, like strapping MC into metal stud pockets.

 

[cavemanmoron]

Drill for oil.

http://www.buyrigs.com/Rig_27.pdf

Gardner Denver 3000 - Top Drive Mast - 54' pivot - 200,000 lb hoisting, Single Drum, 325 HP John Deere/5/1 Allison Transmission...-

 

[yottabit]

But I'll defer the the 'IT professional' crowd using giant 18v Dewalts and Milwaukees to drill holes in drywall or turn machine screws.

OP didn't really specify what he would be using the drill for, so that could help narrow it down. But there are definitely things you can't do with a 12v drill that you can with an 18/19.2/20+, so I think that's why people are shooting high. And with LiON 18/19.2 isn't that heavy or bulky.

Another thing I'd say against a corded drill is if you don't know what you're doing they are more likely to get you hurt. They can pack a LOT of torque.

If you get a 18+V cordless you'll be able to do basically anything you can do with a corded, at least for short periods of time. Drilling out hardened steel wheel studs, drilling a hundred or so holes in 1/8" sheet metal, using large dia spade bits and hole saws to hog through wood, etc.

If you get a 12v that's a lot better suited for just driving drywall screws and more typical indoors stuff. Something to use "around the house" to me means I could be drilling holes in concrete, working on a car, etc. For someone who lives in a studio apartment, their use case would be different

14.4 could be a good in between if 18s/19s are too bulky and you don't think you'll do too much in metal

I've only had a 19.2 V cordless for about the past 7 years, and I've never once run into a situation where I didn't have enough space to drill a hole. I'm not sure what these small spaces are people talk about but they must be really tiny, because even if I'm crammed in a closet or the cabinet under the kitchen sink I manage to be able to use it.

 

[Puppies04]

I want to eventually buy a high end low voltage drill for portability when all I am doing is removing screws and putting anchors into wood or drywall.

I have a couple of sets of these at work, awesome little tools and they pack more grunt than they have any right to with those tiny batteries.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-LCT2...1349632&sr=8-2&keywords=cordless+drill+makita


Back to the OP and everyone turning this into a corded vs cordless debate. The OP doesn't mention any particular line of work he is planning on doing with this drill so I assume that he is just going to use it for DIY. With that in mind the chances of him somehow not being able to use his drill because...

A: he has no power... I can put 1-4 thousand screws when fixing drywall and around 500 sunk straight into wood with no pilot on 1 of the 2 batteries that came with my 18V 3.0AH makita, if he keeps both batteries charged and in their case he isn't going to be in too much trouble unless he needs to build a house one afternoon and the power is out.

B: His charger is broken... The chance of this happening is somewhere close to nil, I have been using Li-ion drills since they came onto the market and in the 1000's of times I have charged batteries I have never come across a broken charger. I have had 2 battery cells break, 1 under warranty and 1 that was 3+years old though. Both had been through 100s of cycles under sometimes very heavy load.

Corded drills have their uses but 99% of the time if you need one then you know you need one and wouldn't be asking on AT:OT about it.

 

[alkemyst]

As easily as those with corded drills say you can have a bad battery/broken charger; a mechanical failure is just as possible with a corded tool.

I believe many haven't had time behind a decent cordless tool yet.

A corded drill today is really just budget conscious or for those doing continuous work all day and for many of those types doing it with a drill is probably the wrong tool choice.

 

[ManBearPig]

deleted

 

[Humpy]

Pretty sure you don't even need a drill.

 

[alkemyst]

http://www.gosureviews.com/best-cordless-drill-for-your-money/

At the bottom of the article are < $100.

I like the Sears 19.2 lithium myself. Around the holidays and Father's Day they usually have a bundle right around $100. It pays for itself with the second battery included.

They also a Dewalt 18V which is a 1/2" drill on a great sale for $99.99.

Many lower priced drills will be 3/8". For most that is fine. However, if you need to drill a hole 9/16" or larger a 1/2" drill is needed. The most common job for this size is putting a peephole in a front door.

 

[Puppies04]

Update: definitely want it to be cordless. I have an old corded drill and its just annoying to have to deal with the cord. I want to mainly use it to drive screws in wood and drywall and simple stuff like that (guide holes and stuff too). So mostly indoors, but if I have to do something outside (can't imagine what, lol) I'd like to be able to. No car stuff. I really want to spend less than $100 if I can, since I don't need anything that's crazy. I cant figure out which brand is considered the best...seems like each has their proponents.

Are you looking for information not already covered in this thread?

All you are going to get now is more opinions, buy a drill already

 

[runzwithsizorz]

I am a contractor, and have used the Craftsman 19.2 volt 3/8 cordless for over 10 years. It is one of the highest torque drills made. With the clutch settings, I can go from dry wall, to deck screws, and work a site nearly all day with 2 or 3 batteries. I have no idea what Alki was talking about, for I have used this drill with 1,1/4" ships bore bits on 6" pilings. For hammers, masonry, cement, and big stuff I use 1/2" electric, BUT that's not what you are about. Also consider the ironclad Sears, and Craftsman warranty.
Downside,---- though well balanced, it's a bit big, and heavy.
http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_1...67#reviewsWrap

Hold the phone, and belay that order! It appears that Craftsman has seriously dumbed down this model. It is no longer like the one I bought years ago. Among other things, it has gone from 400 in. lbs of torque, down to 125!!! Bad move Craftsman! I do not like being made to look foolish when I recommend a product that I own. I own a few Bosch power tools, and so far, they're doing OK. I do not own this one, but it looks pretty decent, for the OP,-----
http://www.sears.com/bosch-ddb180-02...-SPM7177269207

 

[Triumph]

Update: definitely want it to be cordless. I have an old corded drill and its just annoying to have to deal with the cord. I want to mainly use it to drive screws in wood and drywall and simple stuff like that (guide holes and stuff too). So mostly indoors, but if I have to do something outside (can't imagine what, lol) I'd like to be able to. No car stuff. I really want to spend less than $100 if I can, since I don't need anything that's crazy. I cant figure out which brand is considered the best...seems like each has their proponents.

i don't understand how you start a thread, get 4 pages of replies, and come back with a post like this? you sound like you want someone to literally choose one and order it for you.

 

[alkemyst]

I am a contractor, and have used the Craftsman 19.2 volt 3/8 cordless for over 10 years. It is one of the highest torque drills made. With the clutch settings, I can go from dry wall, to deck screws, and work a site nearly all day with 2 or 3 batteries. I have no idea what Alki was talking about, for I have used this drill with 1,1/4" ships bore bits on 6" pilings. For hammers, masonry, cement, and big stuff I use 1/2" electric, BUT that's not what you are about. Also consider the ironclad Sears, and Craftsman warranty.
Downside,---- though well balanced, it's a bit big, and heavy.
http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_1...67#reviewsWrap

Are you really a contractor?

Most twist bits increase beyond a 3/8" shank around 9/16"...some companies have 9/16" bits in 3/8"...most go beyond 3/8" past that.

Many auger type bits also are in 7/16" shanks. Technically out of spec for a 3/8" drill.

 

[stormkroe]

I am a contractor, and have used the Craftsman 19.2 volt 3/8 cordless for over 10 years. It is one of the highest torque drills made. With the clutch settings, I can go from dry wall, to deck screws, and work a site nearly all day with 2 or 3 batteries. I have no idea what Alki was talking about, for I have used this drill with 1,1/4" ships bore bits on 6" pilings. For hammers, masonry, cement, and big stuff I use 1/2" electric, BUT that's not what you are about. Also consider the ironclad Sears, and Craftsman warranty.
Downside,---- though well balanced, it's a bit big, and heavy.
http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_1...67#reviewsWrap

No one can take away your personal experience and I for one believe what you've said. However, calling that drill one of the highest torque cordless drills made makes me think you haven't tried any others. All the specs I can find on the C3 shoes 125 inch/pounds of torque. All the big name 18v drills have over 550 inch/pounds at the same or similar rpm.

 

[alkemyst]

No one can take away your personal experience and I for one believe what you've said. However, calling that drill one of the highest torque cordless drills made makes me think you haven't tried any others. All the specs I can find on the C3 shoes 125 inch/pounds of torque. All the big name 18v drills have over 550 inch/pounds at the same or similar rpm.

I don't think you looked far enough. Just pull up sears.com and enter C3 drills to search for.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-li...3&amp;blockType=G3

The craftsman drills are very nice and they have long lasting power. The trade off is more expensive drills are much lighter.

This makes more sense for someone using their drill all day every day, or a someone that does a lot of DIY projects or of course someone with money to burn (I knew a guy with a full Snap On set, he used only like 5 of those tools ever).

 

[stormkroe]

I don't think you looked far enough. Just pull up sears.com and enter C3 drills to search for.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-li...3&amp;blockType=G3

The craftsman drills are very nice and they have long lasting power. The trade off is more expensive drills are much lighter.

This makes more sense for someone using their drill all day every day, or a someone that does a lot of DIY projects or of course someone with money to burn (I knew a guy with a full Snap On set, he used only like 5 of those tools ever).

The link you gave is not the drill that runzwithsizorz linked, which lists 125 inch/lbs of torque.

 

[Triumph]

we've got some of the newer dewalt lithium ion 20 volt xrp batteries at work now. i'm generally a dewalt fan but major oversight on the design of these drills - no place to hold a screwdriver bit! what kind of a drill doesn't have a place to hold a screwdriver bit?!?! i don't know how they overlooked this.

 

[ManBearPig]

deleted

 

[alkemyst]

The link you gave is not the drill that runzwithsizorz linked, which lists 125 inch/lbs of torque.

That's a typo, many of the 'KMART' specs are wrong on Craftsman tools.

I thought you implied that you looked into other C3 drills and found that as a max.

 

[stormkroe]

we've got some of the newer dewalt lithium ion 20 volt xrp batteries at work now. i'm generally a dewalt fan but major oversight on the design of these drills - no place to hold a screwdriver bit! what kind of a drill doesn't have a place to hold a screwdriver bit?!?! i don't know how they overlooked this.

I agree. All my guys have switched over to Dewalt over the years, one of the new guys has compact makita, but one of the framers on a site has the full set of 20v max Dewalts. I can't justify switching over (20v max is sold as 18v in europe, it's just a marketing numbers scheme in North America), especially with the way LI batteries shut off in extreme temps to save themselves. If anything they should put more bit holders on.