who is wrenching today?

[goobernoodles]

Just discovered a few of the top bolts for the passenger side side strut apparently had loosened themselves and the studs have been grinding against the strut brace. The threads got flattened and I can't tighten the nuts down anymore. I replaced both control arms last week (and a manual transmission conversion a few weeks prior) and started getting creaking/squeaking noises yesterday. Discovered the subframe bolts loosened up a bit which quieted most of the noises, but now this. I really need to stop being so lazy and tightening shit by feel.

Guess I need a new strut mount. I was supposed to drive to Portland today for a car show of sorts tomorrow. I'll be driving the Jeep I guess. :|

 

[JCH13]

Two things you could do at your own risk:

1) Clean up the threads with a die.

Since those threads are sad, you need reinforcement.

2) Add a jam nut to engage taller threads on the stud. Tighten the original nut down to ~25% of the torque spec for that stud. Add another nut (not a thin nut, but a full-size nut) on top of it and tighten to 100% of torque spec.

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/twonuts.htm

If you're using anti-seize don't forget to drop the torque spec by ~35% to account for the thread lubrication.

 

[njmodi]

Maybe I'm missing the point below - but the jam-nut approach wouldn't solve the fact that the strut mount is not secured against the body of the car, it would only solve the self-loosening issue, correct?

Why not add a couple of thick washers and then put the strut mount nut back on - you should be able to tighten it down appropriately at that point?

Two things you could do at your own risk:

1) Clean up the threads with a die.

Since those threads are sad, you need reinforcement.

2) Add a jam nut to engage taller threads on the stud. Tighten the original nut down to ~25% of the torque spec for that stud. Add another nut (not a thin nut, but a full-size nut) on top of it and tighten to 100% of torque spec.

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/twonuts.htm

If you're using anti-seize don't forget to drop the torque spec by ~35% to account for the thread lubrication.

 

[halik]

Inner tie rods on the S8 are on the agenda.

Two weeks back i swapped the whole dash for the leather variety:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vvijub9mgp5c88s/2014-04-23 19.11.55.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2vpzbgf07668zk1/2014-04-23 19.12.03.jpg

 

[goobernoodles]

I fixed the strut issue by cleaning up the bolts with a die. I was kind of rushing everything as I was technically on the clock and working on my car outside of work... Ended up snapping one of the bolts right off while tightening too enthusiastically. Fucking lol.

Time for a new strut mount...

 

[njmodi]

Sorry man... good luck with the repair of the repair...

I fixed the strut issue by cleaning up the bolts with a die. I was kind of rushing everything as I was technically on the clock and working on my car outside of work... Ended up snapping one of the bolts right off while tightening too enthusiastically. Fucking lol.

Time for a new strut mount...

 

[exdeath]

Clutch release bearing in the morning. Should take an hour.

Drive up lift. Remove shifter handle, remove exhaust, disconnect driveshaft, slide out clutch cable, remove transmission from bellhousing with a 36"+ extension from the tail end straight through.

Then 30 seconds later put it all back together.

:awe:

I love RWD + T56.

 

[SparkyJJO]

Spark plugs and oil change on the Camaro. I had almost forgotten how much of a pain plugs are on a 4th gen. My Trailblazer has me spoiled.

 

[michal1980]

wifes xa was making a scraping noise while turning left. Removed wheel saw nothing, put back, still making noise.

Removed again, removed brake caliper. still saw nothing. about to put wheel back on, when I hit the splash shield with a rubber hammer. bunch of rust came off, kept hitting until it stopped then went over it with a wire brush. put wheel back on noise gone.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Replaced the front sway bar links and sway bar bushings on my 160k mile beater ranger. Used sil glyde to lube the bushings.

I've always bought moog parts but was a little disappointed to see that both upper and lower moog ball joint boots were dry rotting. Granted I put them on 10 years or so ago but still.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

snip

I love RWD + T56.

Was this your mustang?

 

[skyking]

helped the neighbor pull the engine/trans on an A6 after work today. We got it out and on the floor, and the car out of the bay so we can do a turbo/manifold, intake manifold, and exhaust system on my TDI tomorrow.

 

[Cerpin Taxt]

No pics, but I replaced one of the fork seals on my motorcycle today. Really wanna get out on it but gotta finish some errands first.

 

[skyking]

Got the turbo/manifold, intake, and exhaust system on the beetle as planned. I'll take some pics tomorrow, I will install the aluminum skid plate.
I got under there and found a big ding in the cast aluminum pan, and a hole in the factory engine cover. I got lucky it was near the corner of the pan.

 

[JCH13]

Maybe I'm missing the point below - but the jam-nut approach wouldn't solve the fact that the strut mount is not secured against the body of the car, it would only solve the self-loosening issue, correct?

Why not add a couple of thick washers and then put the strut mount nut back on - you should be able to tighten it down appropriately at that point?

The jam nut would allow a fastening nut to engage more whole threads on the mounting stud, helping to ensure a solid connection.

Stacking a bunch of washers on top of each other is really bad practice and should be avoided wherever possible.

I fixed the strut issue by cleaning up the bolts with a die. I was kind of rushing everything as I was technically on the clock and working on my car outside of work... Ended up snapping one of the bolts right off while tightening too enthusiastically. Fucking lol.

Time for a new strut mount...

Did you punch out the stud and use a bolt in its place?

 

[monkeydelmagico]

yesterday's list:

Fuel filter replaced
Bottle mounted in trunk
Ran line
Installed solenoid
Wired Switch

To do: run out the regular gas, fill w/93, go to dragstrip.


Also worked on neighbor '78 vette w/no start issue. As I was finishing up I noticed he was wacking the hell out of the starter with a hammer. We tried a push start, smoke started coming out from under hood. Electrical problem, didn't burst into flames, thankfully. Main fuse box totally hosed though. Felt bad for him, he's put alot of money into that car and it hasn't run well yet.

 

[goobernoodles]

Did you punch out the stud and use a bolt in its place?

I had a buddy at a "garage sale" by a performance parts shop in Portland on Saturday that I had planned to go to, and he picked me up sway bars, oil cooler lines and strut mounts.

Tossed the strut mounts in and decided since the car was already up to tackle the front sway bar. Ended up having to drop the rear of the subframe - even had to loosen up the rear motor mount in order to get enough clearance to get the OEM sway out. Damn there is virtually no body roll now. Except the rear end of the car is now comparatively sloppy.

 

[njmodi]

I reread the original post and now it makes sense. I interpreted the issue as the nut catching on the damaged part of the stud and therefore not being flush against the body, but that is not the case, it's just not tightening. In which case your jam-nut approach is a great idea and one to keep in mind for myself.

As far as my washer recommendation, it looked like a single washer may have done the trick in the OP's case - but yes - you're right - definitely not the preferred way to address such issues.

The jam nut would allow a fastening nut to engage more whole threads on the mounting stud, helping to ensure a solid connection.

Stacking a bunch of washers on top of each other is really bad practice and should be avoided wherever possible.



Did you punch out the stud and use a bolt in its place?

 

[richardycc]

gonna replace my front struts and brake pads and rotors in my 06 Grand Cherokee this Friday night so I will have the whole long weekend to finish them in case I run into issues. I figured I might need to remove the brake caliper and rotors to do the struts, I might as well replace them....never done that before, but sure look easy on youtube. wish me luck. I read that one of the lower control arm bolts is close to impossible to remove.

 

[mztykal]

Water pump, serpentine belt, tensioner, upper and lower rad hoses, fan switch, thermostat, and flushing coolant.

 

[MongGrel]

yeah, I run a die over those things for starters.

 

[twinrider1]

Did my first HeliCoil repair today. Pretty nervous taking the drill to a head. But it worked, slick as a whistle. Decided to HeliCoil the other stud hole while I was in there. Woo hoo.

 

[SparkyJJO]

Saturday I was grinding and cutting out rust.

Monday I'll do more of the same, and hopefully have it patched up and sprayed by end of day.

Can't say this has been my most favorite project I've ever done.

 

[mztykal]

3 hours to get all my last post done except the water pump. The one on the car looked new.

 

[Eos]

Saturday: oil/filter change, plus five tire rotation (RF > SP, RR > RF, SP > RR, swap L, as per the manual), and new wiper blades.