who is wrenching today?

[desy]

New hood struts, amazon, and 5 minutes to change. Then diagnosed why my heated/cooled seats quit and it was the awful burnt control module and plug harness issues these Murano fvckers have!
Check two different Nissan dealerships, $350 price difference and my local wouldn't match, sooo $27 shipping it is then.

 

[dainthomas]

Had some body work done several years ago on my Tundra in which the headlights were replaced. Little did I know that they used cheapo garbage because they're almost opaque now, despite trying to restore them a few times. And of course, replacements are around $250/each. Absolutely ridiculous.

Anyway, it's gotta be done but just thought I'd come here to vent/whine.

 

[Paperdoc]

dainthomas, how did you try to restore? The simple kits that amount to putting a thicker layer of wax on them to fill the scratches does not last. I've used the 3M polishing kits that have several grades of abrasives and you grind off the surface to get past the scratches, then grind down much finer to polish to a very clear lens. I found those (applied to the original lenses, I note) last for many years.

 

[dainthomas]

dainthomas, how did you try to restore? The simple kits that amount to putting a thicker layer of wax on them to fill the scratches does not last. I've used the 3M polishing kits that have several grades of abrasives and you grind off the surface to get past the scratches, then grind down much finer to polish to a very clear lens. I found those (applied to the original lenses, I note) last for many years.

I used something similar to the 3M kit you're talking about, and even when I was done it wasn't back to completely clear. And also, I think the shop must have used the cheapest aftermarket lights they could find.

 

[tcsenter]

Yep, remove that oxidized/damaged plastic till it's smooth as silk, or wet ice against wet ice, or insert your preferred analogy for smoothness. Gotta do it tiny bit by tiny bit slowly, else you'll burn the plastic from excess heat and then have to remove that too.

 

[spdfreak]

Had some body work done several years ago on my Tundra in which the headlights were replaced. Little did I know that they used cheapo garbage because they're almost opaque now, despite trying to restore them a few times. And of course, replacements are around $250/each. Absolutely ridiculous.

Anyway, it's gotta be done but just thought I'd come here to vent/whine.

Wet sand with 1000 grit then 2000. If they come out of the grill pretty easy, take them out and use a 2K spray clear on them. Multiple light coats with whatever the recommended dry time between coats and a final medium coat. If they don't come out of the grill easy, you can still tape them off and cover everything with some packing paper or plastic. I do motorcycle headlights like this all the time but use a spray gun and PPG clear.

Eastwood 2K DuraSpray Clear Coat Paint

Strength, Durability and Performance of a Two Component Clear Coat in an Easy to Use Aerosol Can with Unlimited Potlife!

www.eastwood.com

 

[Motostu]

^ I've done this, and they can come out looking pretty darned good.

 

[TonyH]

Quiet day. Spent this morning rebuilding a 4T65E. It's been a while I've done one. The real trick is shimming up the clutch packs to prevent a P1811 code. I swear the engineers had their heads in the wrong place when they designed this unit.

 

[iRONic]

I am the wrenchee today not the wrencher. Windshield replacement by Safelite. Easy peasy lemon squeezy… all covered by insurance.

 

[BoomerD]

I am the wrenchee today not the wrencher. Windshield replacement by Safelite. Easy peasy lemon squeezy… all covered by insurance.

View attachment 105605

Wait…you……..park your vehicle…in your GARAGE?

 

[Greenman]

That's just crazy.

 

[iRONic]

Wait…you……..park your vehicle…in your GARAGE?

Not always… we used it to go to a Bush/Candlebox concert and a recreational cannabis dispensary in Cincy Thursday night.

Rock nailed it right above the rear mirror!

That's a 13 year-old Sienna loser cruiser minivan wheelchair van conversion. I baby* the hell out of it. We’ll have that scow till the wheels fall off or until they turn me in to ashes!

*Maintain tf

 

[Stopsignhank]

I have had Elmer for 4 years now and he has gotten a problem where it gets stuck in gear. He also needs some TLC and now that I have the time it is time to start working on him. First thing I have been doing is cleaning decades of gunk so when I work on him my arms don't turn black.

I also want to pull the clutch cylinder and put a new one in. The issue is they shoved a 327 in this old truck so in some places there is room, in other places there is no room. I got to the cylinder, but then realized in order to get the cylinder out I have to move the brake cable. That does not move so now I have to take out the exhaust pipe. Started to loosen that and then realized that the steering box is in the way of that. OK. Now have to remove the exhaust manifold also. In order to remove the exhaust manifold I have to take out the generator. In order to take out the generator I have to take out the spark plug. Of course all of that stuff is on the one side of the engine. There is nothing on the other side on the engine. Just to show how they shoved the engine in there. They had to bend the inner wall of the wheel well to get the generator to fit.

 

[Stopsignhank]

Had the carburetor rebuilt. As Edd China from Wheeler Dealers said, there are "too many fiddly bits" in there for me to deal with. Yes you young'uns before fuel injection this was how you got gas in your engine.



One thing I forgot to say about working on an old car. I do not have to wonder if the bolt it metric or standard. There are NO metric parts on this truck.

 

[iRONic]

Ohman… the rebuild kits we used to get back in the day covered many revisions of the same carburetor. There was always leftover parts when you were done!

 

[herm0016]

2016 ford transit. doing the rear brakes, i waited a bit long as one pad was totally gone. the other looked like this though. whoops. also, thanks to ford you have to remove the axle to replace the rotor and buy new torque to yield bolts every time. I still have to do the pass. side where the parking brake cable snapped. so new caliper and cable will go in there.

 

[skyking]

I've been pouring in 85w90 every day I used the machine at my place, it has a leaky final drive seal.
My friend cut the special tooling on his CNC plasma cutter and we got started on it today.

that thing with the holes in it is a nut, and it is on there at some unfuckingbelievable torque and stuck.
The tool held up, those grade 8 bolts held up, but the 3/4" extension snapped under about 2000 ft-lb of torque.
He had a 1" 4:1 torque multiplier and I put a 7' long cheater pipe on that.
Next up, I think we will apply some heat. I have located a used nut in Buffalo NY in case we destroy this one.

 

[trenchfoot]

View attachment 109163

I've been pouring in 85w90 every day I used the machine at my place, it has a leaky final drive seal.
My friend cut the special tooling on his CNC plasma cutter and we got started on it today.
View attachment 109162
that thing with the holes in it is a nut, and it is on there at some unfuckingbelievable torque and stuck.
The tool held up, those grade 8 bolts held up, but the 3/4" extension snapped under about 2000 ft-lb of torque.
He had a 1" 4:1 torque multiplier and I put a 7' long cheater pipe on that.
Next up, I think we will apply some heat. I have located a used nut in Buffalo NY in case we destroy this one.

Brings to mind the saying "tough nut to crack". At our shop, quite a few times we've modified large slugging wrenches several different ways to get a stubborn nut or bolt to break loose. Reason being, in some instances an impact type force will work where brute leveraged torque won't. In your case, what's your thoughts on fabbing up a socket type spanner that could engage at least 4 of the bolt holes that's also long enough to clear the distance of the depth that nut is at and then weld a nut or the actual slugging wrench to the end of it and have a go at it with a long handled 8 lb. sledge to impact it loose?

The tool will end up looking like a tophat flange with the body consisting of 4 inch schedule 80 pipe or similar with bolt holes on the flange that match up with the bolt pattern in the nut and a 2 inch or larger nut welded on the other end to attach the slugging wrench on. That strap supporting your breaker bar/socket tool is a really good idea along with heating the nut up and could be incorporated with the flanged slugging wrench idea. We also use an induction heating tool for installing shrink sleeves and press fit bearings along with liquid nitrogen to get things to install or remove easier. IDK, just some random thoughts that came to mind.

 

[skyking]

we could go at the tool idea again, but that is made from a John Deere/hitachi drawing.
Those are not threaded holes on the nut, just ~.450" smooth bores.
The bearings are large tapered rings and the procedure is to heat them to 160C and then they drop on OK.
That equates to 325 in the oven.

 

[skyking]

the good news is the planetary gears are pristine, in great shape for any number of hours, let alone ~10,000 hours.
I was worried that I had harmed them with the low oil conditions.

 

[trenchfoot]

we could go at the tool idea again, but that is made from a John Deere/hitachi drawing.
Those are not threaded holes on the nut, just ~.450" smooth bores.
The bearings are large tapered rings and the procedure is to heat them to 160C and then they drop on OK.
That equates to 325 in the oven.

Oh OK, there were bolts in the holes so I just assumed. Hardened 7/16" or 11mm dowel pins then. Good luck with getting that nut off.

 

[skyking]

Oh OK, there were bolts in the holes so I just assumed. Hardened 7/16" or 11mm dowel pins then. Good luck with getting that nut off.

I grabbed some grade 8 7/16" NC bolts and they are tight on the threads as it is. I think the next move is to heat the top side of the nut up ( less oil smoke) cherry and go at it again. That ought to take some of the piss out of it.
I need the machine on the 24th and if we do this early next week, that will allow for some shipping time on a new nut.
I can repair the threads with thread files once it is apart.

 

[trenchfoot]

I grabbed some grade 8 7/16" NC bolts and they are tight on the threads as it is. I think the next move is to heat the top side of the nut up ( less oil smoke) cherry and go at it again. That ought to take some of the piss out of it.
I need the machine on the 24th and if we do this early next week, that will allow for some shipping time on a new nut.
I can repair the threads with thread files once it is apart.

How quickly time flies when under the gun to make good time doesn't it? Especially when you have to MacGyver the hell out of job to get things done.

Anyway, here's a main shaft off of a Komatsu mobile rock crusher that's in the background of the bearing housing where we had to extract the shaft, turn down both damaged bearing journals, weld back up over size and lathe it back down to spec, then align bore the bearing holes in the chassis back to spec for oversized bearings. Took a loss on the job because the new bearings that got delivered was not the correct size on the OD. Had to wait almost a month for the correct ones to show up.

 

[skyking]

that's big ugly stuff compared to a little 120.

 

[BoomerD]

I cut my teeth as an apprentice working the portable crushing plants. Something I DO NOT miss...Dirty hard work...especially when something plugged up or broke.