Who makes good blank CDs?

[jaggrey]

How's this for a blast from the past....I remember these threads back when 4x CDs were state-of-the-art! Anyway....my issue is that in my new (to me) car has one of the pickiest CD players I've ever seen. It'll play some burned CDs and completely reject others. If I burn at anything higher than 16x it gives an error code, so now I burn at 4x for the car.

I've noticed that *some* Maxell and *some* TDK blanks will play with little or no effort in the car (when burned at 4x). I also have these blue "Precision" CDs that seem to really agree with my car's CD player. I've also tried some Sonys (which didn't work), an old 4x Imation CD (which worked) and a old Verbatim 24x blank (which worked). It seems like if I can get a hold of some old blanks I'd be fine! :disgust:

Any suggestions?

 

[Corporate Thug]

Fuji TY's are the best

TDK is pretty good too

 

[jaggrey]

Originally posted by: shady06
Fuji TY's are the best

TDK is pretty good too

yea those are the only brand i haven't tried.....

 

[clicknext]

Taiyo Yuden is good, or so everyone says. Fuji is Taiyo Yuden (though rumor says that's changing??!?!) and I've gotten HP that was Taiyo Yuden.

 

[ed21x]

Verbatim, TY, and TDK are the only ones I ever use.

 

[wetcat007]

TDK i've had the best experiences with

 

[jaggrey]

I bought a spindle of TDKs that don't work well in my car after track 1.

 

[aequitas]

tdk
they uses high quality dyes

 

[xcript]

Princo.

 

[wicktron]

Mitsubishi Chemicals (Verbatim), Taiyo Yuden (Fuji, Memorex, TDK, Sony -- none of which use TY anymore), and Mitsui.

 

[Sunner]

I use Verbatim's Crystal discs, a bit more expensive than most brands, but well worth it IMO, they work in every player I've ever tried(including some old car players), the surface is very durable, and they look kinda cool

 

[PliotronX]

Originally posted by: clicknext
Taiyo Yuden is good, or so everyone says. Fuji is Taiyo Yuden (though rumor says that's changing??!?!) and I've gotten HP that was Taiyo Yuden.

Yep, I almost bought some from Fry's a couple weeks ago, but I inspected the label in the checkout line (luckily), and there it stuck out like a sore thumb (well at least to me it did )... "Made In Taiwan." The Taiwanese Fujis are not made by TY, but Ritek IIRC. The labels look exactly the same as the TY's, so you have to inspect the manufacture location to be sure. Fortunately they still hade some Japanese (TY) in a different isle, but they may be phasing out the TY's.....

I've never had a problem with the TY Fuji's, I love 'em. Before those, I stuck with TDK until they started to rebadge Ritek discs (dunno what the current situation is though) and then I discovered the wonder that is TY-Fuji

 

[nCred]

Verbatim maybe

 

[cockeyed]

Fuji TY's are my favorite. The package must say "Made in Japan" to get the TY's.

 

[jaggrey]

Isn't there a program that'll tell you the brand of the CD-R and the type of dye used? I'd like to see if the kind that works in my car really is TY.

Edit: I found one called CDR Media Code Identifier. I tried the Precision one (the only ones so far that consistently work) and it said the following:

ATIP: 97m 32s 19f
Disc Manufacturer: Prodisc Technology Inc.
Reflective layer: Dye (Short strategy; e.g. Phthalocyanine)
Media type: CD-Recordable
Recording Speeds: min. unknown - max. unknown
nominal Capacity: 702.83MB (79m 59s 72f / LBA: 359847)

When I tried the Maxells that didn't work, the only thing that was different was the disc manufacturer (Ritek) and the nominal capacity was a little different. The TDKs (which don't work) yielded the same results, only the manufacturer was CMC Magnetics Corp. I see on the TDK package that they were made in Taiwan. I guess in short I should look for ones that say made in Japan?

This is unbelieveably frustrating.:disgust:

 

[Ionizer86]

My Phillips stack of CD-R's worked well, though I gotta say that they didn't have preset lines for labeling the cd's with.

 

[jaggrey]

Ok, I tried the Fuji's made in Japan....they still don't work. I burned at 4x.

:disgust::frown::|

 

[Montano]

Verbatim always work for me.

 

[PliotronX]

Originally posted by: jaggrey
Ok, I tried the Fuji's made in Japan....they still don't work. I burned at 4x.

:disgust::frown::|

I would have to agree that it is one picky CD reader :Q I see that it accepts "short strategy" which is not what TY discs use. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience in tracking down this type of disc, but is 4X the slowest that the burner will go at? I've read that 2X usually works best, and in some cases better than burning at 1X.

 

[ethebubbeth]

i used to love the pny 700mb cdr's... every single one would overburn to 750mb without any errors. too bad i can't find them anywhere now >_<

 

[Mem]

I use Datasafe Silver Premium CDRs they are rated at 48x and are very good quality/value for money.

Datasafe homepage .

 

[Schadenfroh]

whatever brands office depot has on sale is what i use and none has failed me yet

 

[Quick1]

Verbatim and Fuji are the only ones I use. No issues with either one.

 

[PliotronX]

Originally posted by: Mem
I use Datasafe Silver Premium CDRs they are rated at 48x and are very good quality/value for money.

Datasafe homepage .

According to the link:

This [silver premium]disc is manufactured by Prodisc

Wewt, the search is over

 

[jaggrey]

Originally posted by: PliotronX

Originally posted by: jaggrey
Ok, I tried the Fuji's made in Japan....they still don't work. I burned at 4x.

:disgust::frown::|

I would have to agree that it is one picky CD reader :Q I see that it accepts "short strategy" which is not what TY discs use. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience in tracking down this type of disc, but is 4X the slowest that the burner will go at? I've read that 2X usually works best, and in some cases better than burning at 1X.

The slowest that the burner will do is 4x. Also, the old Verbatim (24x certified) and the old Imation (16x certified) that I tried were "long strategy" and they worked fine.

I should rephrase the question....has any1 had this problem and fixed it by using a certain type/brand of CD?

A friend of mine said that it has to do with the wavelength that the burner burns at; it should be consistent with what the player reads at. Since newer burners & players have a slightly variable wavelength, when you put it in a CD player that only reads a certain wavelength then there's a problem.