Why wont my Duron go overclock very much??? potential dud???

[MrDudeMan]

I set the multiplier to 8.5x100, and it worked. so i thought everything was good. but, i tried it on 9x100 and it wont boot. so i shut it down and booted back up without me touching the clear bios jumper. when it registered the CPU speed, it said 800MHz...? i went in and checked the settings and it was still on 9x100. so at this point i decided to try and OC the FSB. i set it at 110 (just to try and OC) and left the multiplier at 8.5...and it worked! i got it up to like 978MHz or something like that, but i know it wouldnt be stable and would probably melt down after a minute of gaming (the FSB that is). anyone ever had a problem like this? i dont know what to make of it, unless its what i thought of the first time...the cpu is a dud.

 

[MrDudeMan]

one other thing...i have no idea what to do with the voltages, and what bios should i be using for an overclocker/gamer on a pro2-a??

 

[MGRook]

Did you connect the L1 bridges on the face of the CPU to unlock it? You must unlock the CPU before you can OC it.

 

[MrDudeMan]

yes, its unlocked. but, is unlocking an all or nothing kind of process? does it kinda work and kinda not work? or does it either not work at all or work as well as its going to?

 

[vidas]

What kind of pencil did you use for overlocking ?
If it was HB , then you maybe try 5H ( hard pencil )
My results : HB pencil = Duron 600 @ 715 ( 110 * 6.5 )
5H ==''== = Duron 600 @ 963 ( 107 * 9 )
And please check , that parallel L1 contacts would not be shortcircuited.

=========

Mobo ASUS A7V , 128 cas3 RAM etc...

 

[MrDudeMan]

i used .5mm mechanical pencil...i guess ill go get my art pencils and try 5H...i knew art was good for something =) i still need an answer to this Q though:

is unlocking an all or nothing kind of process? does it kinda work and kinda not work? or does it either not work at all or work as well as its going to?

also, what is TOO high for the FSB to be at? like i said, i got it to 110 and it booted, but im sure that would boil my heatsink. i am getting a blorb though...would i be able to leave the FSB high or what?

 

[vidas]

110 Mhz is usually a limit for a given EV6 bus.With a higher FSB speed you'll get better CPU / memory bandwidth ( good for Q3 ) ,
but the whole your system is under stress ( AGP video card , HDD , PCI devices ).
Don't forget to increase CPU voltage from 1.6 V to 1.8 - 1.85 V.
Your motherboard has got great stability ( thanks to huge capasitors ),but you'd check for the latest BIOS upgrades from the MSI.( + LiveBIOS + FuzyLogicIII etc... to configure all that).

 

[MrDudeMan]

where can i get a new bios? i will flash it to the latest bios for hardcore gamers/overclockers. are you sure 2.2 is what im looking for? i know nothing about it, just making sure. also, i still need help getting my CPU to higher speeds with the multiplier!

 

[paulip88]

To answer the question that was never answered:

> Is unlocking all or nothing...

No, it is not. Its possible to only unlock certain multipliers if you do no properly connect all the bridges. This might be your problem.

As for you FSB, if it runs at 110, it runs at 110. The thing that would cause your CPU to burn up would be the CPU's speed. As for other things burning up, that's an entirely different matter.

 

[paulip88]

Now that I read some more stuff, I think one of the big reasons why you can't get too far is that (as you mentioned in another thread), you are running without any thermal compound. This is prety dangerous. Prolly a better idea to lay off things for a while.

 

[vidas]

For a while version 2.2 is up to date.
BTW overclocking with a pencil is all or nothing proccess.
You can it make easier with a credit card or so as a edge separator
when painting lines.
What is your heatsink / fan ? what temperature is shown on your FuzyLogicIII ? ( in Celcius , please ).

 

[MrDudeMan]

i am using an alpha pal6035 w/ delta, i havnt checked the temps..im sure isnt a problem. i just cant get it above 850 without using the FSB.

also, where do i get that bios?

 

[vidas]

Did you install Live BIOS ? ( from MSI' CD ).That program automatically ( from Windows ) checks the Internet for the newest BIOS version , flashes it and then after rebooting you'll have it refreshed.

www.msi.com.tw/support/bios/mainboard/6xxx/k7tpro2a/k7tpro2a.htm

 

[MrDudeMan]

cool, thanks a lot man

 

[toph99]

my Pro2A is doing the same thing. they don't like multiplier adjustments. i can set mine to 7.5x109, but no 8x100 :|

new BIOS didn't do a thing for me

 

[MrDudeMan]

what bios did you flash to? and is the fsb safe at that speed..temp wise?

 

[MGRook]

I remember reading a thread a few weeks ago about a guy that couldn't post at 9x100 but tried 9.5x100 anyway and it worked surprisingly. Even though you can't post at 9x100 try 9.5x100 and it just might work. Get some thermal grease on that CPU first if you haven't already. As fo the voltages, if you bridge the L7's on the CPU your motherboard should automatically default to 1.87v as mine did.

 

[MrDudeMan]

so i have a pro2-a, and a duron 800...what you are saying is bridge the L1s and the L7s...then it will register higher voltages and OC better? ill try it when i get some arctic silver.

 

[DarkMajiq]

Yes, that could help. If it still doesn't work though, it may just be that your chip isn't a great overclocker, they aren't all.

vidas: Thanks for the 5H tip, I'm going to pick myself up one of those on my way home today.

 

[gplracer]

When you say you can not get to 9x100, what do you mean? Does it not boot at all or does it lock on the boot up? Also what kind of case do you have. You could easily have a heat problem. I have an alpha cooler but had a heat problem with the previous case. Read the other post that I have here in the forum now about getting to 1ghz. Do you have motherboard monitor? I would get it if you dont to check the cpu temperature while all this is going on. Get back soon with more info.

 

[MrDudeMan]

i have an InwinQ500 with absolutely no possibility of a heating problem =) 4 high output 120mm fans, 2 in the front, 1 in the middle blowing up, and 1 on the top blowing out, then i have 4 high output sunon 80mm fans, 2 on the side blowing at the processor, 1 on the rear blowing out, and 1 at the top blowing out. blorb on the chipset, and alpha pal6035 w/ delta on the chip...what i mean by "it wont work" is it wont turn on without having to reset the cmos. dunno what to do about that. maybe my board and chip both suck and i need new ones haha.

 

[DarkMajiq]

Crap, that's a lot of cooling in there MrDudeMan! No heat problems there lol!

I would suggest updating the BIOS like the other guys said, and also maybe re-penciling the L1 bridges with a 5H pencil. I picked one up, I'm going to try it in a few days. I also got a 9H, we'll see how that works out

 

[MrDudeMan]

hehe yeah i made sure that heat wouldnt be a problem. make sure you keep me posted on your testing with the differences in a 5H and 9H pencil! i am interested to know how that works out. the other problem...i cant get into windows to get a bios!! i just changed out from win2k on a dual celeron 500 to the VIA chipset on the pro2-a...and im thinking this is why computer is broken. by broken..i mean when it gets to the windows bootup, it locks up until i restart, i let it sit overnight once and that pretty much showed me its dead locked =) anyone know why it wont start other than the fact that the VIA chipset is messing it up and i need to reinstall? if none of this made sense and im compeltely wrong, please let me know. i need to know how to fix this =)

TIA

 

[chitek]

I had the exact same problem. Using a defogger kit rather than a pencil cured my problem. Might be worth a shot.

 

[GaryTcs]

Mr DudeMan, I'm going to summarize the things I know to be correct in this string that could be your problem.

Paulip88 asked about thermal compound, this is necessary for a successful oc. Regardless of the bios listed temp, or the temp inside the case. I recommend Crazy PC for Arctic Silver, they're fairly priced, and still a perfect 7 at reseller ratings.

Some Durons are duds.

The bridges are not all or nothing. Mine still runs at 9.5, but nowhere in between 7.5 and 8.5 at any fsb. (i suspect some sort of internal defect, but at 1035mhz, who cares!!) I redid the bridges about a dozen times until I gave up on it.

The Loctite (or conductive ink/paint)is the best method. It doesn't wear out over time, and it gave me the last few mhz I neded to get to 1ghz.

If your looking to go higher than 900, you'll probably need the highest voltage setting available. (I believe this is 1.80 on your mobo)

Back that bus down to 100 until you get done with the multiplier. Then you know where you hit the wall.