wich one is better???

[sanrivaldo2]

hello, im searching for a good PSU for my new amd 64/pci-e rig......i was convinced with this cooler master power supply Cooler Master Real Power 450W but then i found this one Cooler Master eXtreme Power 450W that costs $16 less.....i need to know which one is better for a chaintech vnf4 and 6600gt, with an a64 3000+

one says PFC active....i dont know whats that

 

[impemonk]

either man, it is up to you. Cooler Master makes such great PSU's most people here underestimate their quality. I have a Cooler Master Real Power 350W PSU and it runs my Leadtek 6800GT just perfectly. Those people who said I would need more than 18 amps on my 12 rail can eat it because I am running my system just fine and dandy.

 

[twharry]

I have the RealPower 450. It's badass. Never had a single problem with it. From what I have read, the RealPower calculates their wattage as avg continuous instead of peak, and if they did it the industry standard way, it would be 550-600w. Take that for what it's worth.

I would go with the RealPower over the eXtremePower.

It's nice to see someone say something positive about the PSU. Usually people say unless it's Tagan, Antec or PC P&C, it's a POS.

 

[aatf510]

You might want to take note @ the +5 rail on the extreme power
+3.3V@20A, +5V@5A, +12V1@12A,+12V2@10A, -12V@1.0A, +5VSB@10A
Many of the hardware has switched to drain from +12V, but 5A on +5V seems a little low.

 

[sanrivaldo2]

so thats one difference....what about de active PFC....whats that???

 

[sanrivaldo2]

hey i just found out that the two of them are almost the same thing and newegg did a mistake in their description of the product (maybe a marketing move) look at this:

Cooler Master Real Power RS-450-ACLX


At Newegg as "Extreme Power" (look at the last picture for the sign "real power" at the box)

watch for the +5v rail amperage...its contradictory....

now compare to this one:

Cooler Master Real Power RS-450-ACLY

and this is the eXtreme line from cooler master:

The eXtremes

now...can someone please tell me whats the real difference apart from the Active PFC and the MTBF??????????? there's money in play!!!

 

[TJmoney]

This looks like coolermaster's page for it... which says it has 25A on the +5V and 2 on the +5Vsb rails, so it is the same as the ALCY except for the APFC. Newegg's specs are probably just a typo.


I have the Real Power 450 and love it. I'm running an oc'd winchester, dvd burner, 1 hd, a 6600gt and 2 sticks of ram, which isnt that power hungry, but the voltages are always within 1 or 2% of where they should be, even at max load acording to the software meter. Anything within 10% is supposed to be acceptable. If your power coming out of the wall isn't totally reliable, I'd get the real power just for the active PFC. I'd spend the extra $20 to get the APFC and protect your investment, but its your call. Either should be decent quality (though $59 for a 450 watt 24pin ps seems cheap, but it may just be a really good deal)

 

[aatf510]

I am not 100% what the Actice PFC; the newest and higher quality PSU are all adding in the feature.
Probably has something to do with the power efficiency? (to keep a high power efficiency even @ 20% load?)

 

[sanrivaldo2]

but if i have an UPS do i need Active PFC??? i have an APC Back-UPS 280 (i think thats the model...its like 6 years old, but is working fine with my pentium 3 at the day)

 

[aatf510]

I really don't see how a UPS can save electricity.

 

[BrokenVisage]

Originally posted by: toattett
I really don't see how a UPS can save electricity.

What can brown do for you?

 

[TJmoney]

As I understand a PFC regulates the voltage coming out of the wall, for example if you turn on your A/C and all the lights dim, a power supply without a PFC would pass that disturbance along to the electronics on your computer. A PFC will flatten out that disturbance, so your computer's electronics recieve stable power, no matter what is coming out of the wall. A UPS should do the exact same thing, so a PFC should be pretty useless behind a UPS. If you have a UPS i'd save the money and get the cheaper PS, since the PFC seems to be the only difference.

 

[AlabamaCajun]

What the deal with UPSs is the efficiency factor. Some are lower than 60%. A good factor is 75% and better. On cheap PS units more watts are going through the heatsink and less to the chips and bad airflow and heatsinking in the PSU makes the problem worse. This affects the run time on a UPS as well as the costing more on your watt/hour meter. What I liked about the RS-450 ACL_ is the good current rating on twin 12V rails giving added stability and that quiet 120mm fan with the huge rear exhaust. I have an enermax, nice PSU, but with a 92mm belly fan and 80mm rear fan, the psu gets a little warm due to the 80mm opening that these 2 fans are trying to shove air out of, well some air warm slips out the front opening putting warm air back into the case.