It has the tire sealant kit in the trunk somewhere. Although, I'm not much of a fan of it since you still have to replace the tire, and the sealant also ruins the TPMS sensor, which means you've got to replace that too (according to Ford).
I would assume you don't have a spare because your tires are run-flats...otherwise it would be illegal for them to sell a car without a spare.
I just bought some Pilot Super Sports. :awe:snow?
My SRT8 had no spare and no run flats. Pretty sure they can sell you a car without a spare or run flats.
Then it would have what Aikouka had, a tire sealant kit. Pretty sure they have to offer you a way to get off the road due to a flat tire without getting towed.
I needed new tires, so instead of replacing them with all seasons, I got a set of Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice WRT XL. They were rated well on Tire Rack. They drive at least as well as the all season tires I had, but a little noisier. Nice looking tread.
In the spring I'll get a new set of rims with a set of summer tires.
Is a tire like the Hankook i'Pike RS W409 going to still do well if never equipped with studs?
I love in NW Ohio, so winters can be cold and snowy or relatively mild and not so snowy. We're all over the map.
Studs definitely aren't being used around here, as we can usually have bare pavement, and depending on the road and frequency of snow storms, plows are typical on the main roads.
I can't afford the best winter tires, but I can't bring myself to buy the cheapest possible. I don't think I'm finding good enough deals for Michelins, Continentals, Generals, or even the Blizzaks from Bridgestone.
Edit: I changed this to compare the W409, as my mechanic does not have access to the W419s and it seems I can't beat their installed price on these.
[1]To get the General Altimax Arctics installed at the same rate, I'd have to drop back down to 205/50R17 - but I think I could get the 409's a touch cheaper in 225/45R17.
[2]My mechanic is still strongly pushing good all-seasons (and suggests the Uniroyal Tiger Paw as a "good all-season"), and says there is hardly any difference between them and winter-specific tires.
I've never had winter tires on any vehicle, so I cannot offer a different perspective, but I've seen repeatedly from folks with these winter tires that it makes a significant difference.
I'm sort of at the point that I'll use these mechanics for the good work, but skip their advice on rubber.
Also, the front wheels are slightly misshapen - due to the previous owner from either potholes or hitting curbs (there are scrapes as well). The mechanic has suggested that I keep those, as going with low profile tires (I question calling 225/45 or 205/50 low profile,[3] but lower profile from massive sidewall, sure... I've seen many with far less than 4" sidewall) is sure to beat the wheels up some more, so get a new set in the spring. I'm not sure... our roads are often beat up any time up year, though the worst offenders get patched up around spring.
Comparison between the two sizes:
[4] Will 225/45r17, which has 2cm extra width when compared to the 205/50r17, and a sidewall shorter by 1.25mm, be a better or worse purchase? It seems they typically cost more than the 205's due to the amount of rubber, but am I going to actually get much benefit out of the 2cm extra width? And on the other, would a gain of 1.25mm in sidewall height be noticeably better for wheel preservation or ride comfort? I've been ignoring the sidewall difference and simply focusing on larger contact patch = better traction. Granted, it's a Mazda 3 S (2.3L), not a turbo-rocket but still, more torque/accel potential than any ride I've had before.
Is a tire like the Hankook i'Pike RS W409 going to still do well if never equipped with studs?
I love in NW Ohio, so winters can be cold and snowy or relatively mild and not so snowy. We're all over the map.
Studs definitely aren't being used around here, as we can usually have bare pavement, and depending on the road and frequency of snow storms, plows are typical on the main roads.
I can't afford the best winter tires, but I can't bring myself to buy the cheapest possible. I don't think I'm finding good enough deals for Michelins, Continentals, Generals, or even the Blizzaks from Bridgestone.
Edit: I changed this to compare the W409, as my mechanic does not have access to the W419s and it seems I can't beat their installed price on these.
To get the General Altimax Arctics installed at the same rate, I'd have to drop back down to 205/50R17 - but I think I could get the 409's a touch cheaper in 225/45R17.
My mechanic is still strongly pushing good all-seasons (and suggests the Uniroyal Tiger Paw as a "good all-season"), and says there is hardly any difference between them and winter-specific tires.
I've never had winter tires on any vehicle, so I cannot offer a different perspective, but I've seen repeatedly from folks with these winter tires that it makes a significant difference.
I'm sort of at the point that I'll use these mechanics for the good work, but skip their advice on rubber.
Also, the front wheels are slightly misshapen - due to the previous owner from either potholes or hitting curbs (there are scrapes as well). The mechanic has suggested that I keep those, as going with low profile tires (I question calling 225/45 or 205/50 low profile, but lower profile from massive sidewall, sure... I've seen many with far less than 4" sidewall) is sure to beat the wheels up some more, so get a new set in the spring. I'm not sure... our roads are often beat up any time up year, though the worst offenders get patched up around spring.
Comparison between the two sizes:
Will 225/45r17, which has 2cm extra width when compared to the 205/50r17, and a sidewall shorter by 1.25mm, be a better or worse purchase? It seems they typically cost more than the 205's due to the amount of rubber, but am I going to actually get much benefit out of the 2cm extra width? And on the other, would a gain of 1.25mm in sidewall height be noticeably better for wheel preservation or ride comfort? I've been ignoring the sidewall difference and simply focusing on larger contact patch = better traction. Granted, it's a Mazda 3 S (2.3L), not a turbo-rocket but still, more torque/accel potential than any ride I've had before.
I can't speak to those precise tires. However, where studs will be useful is on ice. Glare ice, black ice, etc. If you don't encounter ice on a regular basis or can stay home when the roads are heavily iced you don't need studs. I've personally never felt the need for them.
[1] A narrower winter tire will generally give you better deep snow traction. See: http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=126& I REALLY like the General Altimax, you would not be disappointed in it as a winter tire I bet.
[2] See this: http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost.php?p=36899320&postcount=62
If by "hardly any difference" he means "serious detriments to braking, turning, and accelerating" then, sure, there's hardly any difference. :awe: Definitely skip mechanic's advice on rubber unless they have some other credential to suggest they know what they're talking about. I know a mechanic with a ~400whp car that puts stock-width all-seasons on it to go hill-climb racing...
[3] Again, see above TR article. A minus-sized wheel will be cheaper to buy, cheaper to put tires on, and will be more forgiving in the winter. I drop from 225/45-18 summers to 215/55-16 winters. The lack of swapping tires around will pay for the wheels in a year or two, and it will be easier and faster to change each season. Get an extra set of wheels.
[4] Adding 2cm of sidewall without getting a smaller wheel (oversizing your tire) is a bad plan. Speedo will be off, brakes will be less effective on dry pavement, you're adding unsprung mass, etc. Avoid it.
I doubt you'd ever see a noticable difference with a 1.25mm sidewall change. Again, getting a minus-sized wheel is great. On your car a 16 would fit nicely I bet.
A larger contact patch will help traction on dry pavement, but will hurt snow traction (generally speaking). If you can spin your tires on dry pavement in anything but 1st gear I would be stunned, even with narrower winter tires. I have a modified MS3 and my winters can usually hold most of 3rd gear on dry pavement, which is plenty.
TL;DR - Get slightly-narrower-than-stock Altimax tires on 16in aluminum wheels from TR, with the TPMS, and go to town. You'll save money in the long-term, protect your summer wheels, and get great snow performance.
Thanks guys!
Regarding stock: the wheels on this car aren't stock. Stock for the trim is 17x6.5" I think, whereas these are 17x7.5. Tires on both stock and what these wheels are currently wearing is 205/50r17. I was considering 225/45 for wider contact patch, but I think I'm going to hold off until spring for a new set of all-seasons in that size.
[1]JCH13, regarding point #4: you read that wrong. I have no plans on oversizing - I am conscious of keeping proportions the same for that very reason. I had said 2cm added width (205 vs 225), with 1.25mm shorter sidewall.
But it seems while the 225/45r17s will be better for all-seasons, the 205/50r17 is the better winter choice.
Unfortunately, it doesn't look like a good idea, financially, to seek out new 16s AND a fresh set of tires. And yes, I checked craigslist. :\
[2]I think there is one possibly worthy set, but I've seen caution against "Sport Edition" brand wheels. But a little over an hour away, I see a set of 16" Sport Edition wheels with 205/55R16 General Altimax Arctics on them, asking for about $600.
This is a quote from the description in regards to tread:
"Factory tread is listed as 12/32". Tires have 8/32" to 10/32" remaining to tire wear bars and 10/32" to 12/32" to the bottom of the tread."
I also have zero plans for studs. If a cheaper and good tire can have studs, so be it - but I won't use any. I think it's illegal here, and it's not really going to be of benefit anyway, so I don't care. I'd rather not drive if only studs or chains are getting you to the destination.
[3] Again, see above TR article. A minus-sized wheel will be cheaper to buy, cheaper to put tires on, and will be more forgiving in the winter. I drop from 225/45-18 summers to 215/55-16 winters. The lack of swapping tires around will pay for the wheels in a year or two, and it will be easier and faster to change each season. Get an extra set of wheels.
Based on my experience, this means you actually don't know how to drive in snow. Anyone who believes they "know" generally is full of it. >_> Not saying that is 100% true of you, just that I wouldn't risk my life in your hands on a snowy day.
What if I told you that I've done track days in the snow?
With all seasons? :awe:
I absolutely dread this job. Not sure why, but I do. And the worst part is, it only takes like 25 minutes. But it's the worst 25 minutes of the year.
Disclaimer: I don't mind putting my summer rims/tires on.
I know how.
<- 5 years driving emergency vehicles in northern NH.
I think it's more accurate to say those who say they don't need snow tires and their all seasons do awesome in snow are more likely to be less than stellar than those rocking snow tires once it gets cold out.