Winter rims/tires today

[jlee]

Ha I distinctly remember the day you cracked with "fuck NH winters, moving someplace warm". Are you a LEO down in az now?

I need to get out of the snow belt.

Yeah, that was a good day - haven't regretted it for a second.

Nah I am in IT now. I moved out here amidst empty budgets so I had an impromptu career change. It was disappointing at first, but it's worked out quite well for me.

 

[Harrod]

Does anyone know how much it typically costs to reprogram the tire pressure sensors when swapping between summer and winter wheels? Or is it more convenient to just to pick up one of the tools on amazon and reprogram them myself?

 

[Fenixgoon]

Does anyone know how much it typically costs to reprogram the tire pressure sensors when swapping between summer and winter wheels? Or is it more convenient to just to pick up one of the tools on amazon and reprogram them myself?

unless your TCS takes the TPMS sensors into account, a piece of black electrical or duct tape works wonders.

 

[Midwayman]

Does anyone know how much it typically costs to reprogram the tire pressure sensors when swapping between summer and winter wheels? Or is it more convenient to just to pick up one of the tools on amazon and reprogram them myself?

You need a tool to reprogram them? My last two cars at least could do it from the MFD on the speedo.

 

[Viper GTS]

I guess this is where indirect TPMS comes in handy, I didn't even know such a thing existed until buying this car, one button push on the dash to reset for the new tires and you're done.

I wouldn't have guessed that circumference changed enough with pressure to get usable readings but apparently it does.

Viper GTS

 

[destrekor]

I guess this is where indirect TPMS comes in handy, I didn't even know such a thing existed until buying this car, one button push on the dash to reset for the new tires and you're done.

I wouldn't have guessed that circumference changed enough with pressure to get usable readings but apparently it does.

Viper GTS

Yeah it's a neat trick, but I think it's slightly less accurate because of that issue. Bonus is you only have to worry about the rare internal sensor (can't remember what it's called). The TPMS sensors that go inline with the valves are almost always an integrated device and the battery cannot be replaced; every 5-7 years, they say, you'll have to replace the units. Or if you buy a second set of wheels, you have to buy more. Tiremax was quoting $220 to add TPMS to a wheel set I was shopping.

 

[JCH13]

Is a 67.1mm to 79.6mm hub/bore adapter (hubcentric ring) just too large of a difference between stock and wheel? I have no clue where one draws the line between what is reckless and what is fully acceptable, if there is such a thing.

The wheel/tire package I'm looking at on craiglist (Sport Edition wheels, 205/55R16 Altimax Arctics) apparently has a centerbore of 79.6mm. Tiremax shipped the original owner adapter rings, which in the photos he sent me very much appear to be plastic. I know plastic is common, but is that too much stress for plastic?

I assume it must be fine - but I figured I should double-check that.

Hubcentric rings are important to use. They keep the wheel centered and help the wheel and hub work as they were intended to. Even plastic rings help!

Does anyone know how much it typically costs to reprogram the tire pressure sensors when swapping between summer and winter wheels? Or is it more convenient to just to pick up one of the tools on amazon and reprogram them myself?

Mine automatically switch... no need to reprogram. Are you sure yours need it?

 

[destrekor]

Does anyone know how much it typically costs to reprogram the tire pressure sensors when swapping between summer and winter wheels? Or is it more convenient to just to pick up one of the tools on amazon and reprogram them myself?

Search for your manufacturer's method. Some require a tool/dealership service to take care of it, while some you just follow a specific routine sequence.

Apparently, for the Mazda 3, you just toggle the key to On, then ACC, wait 15 minutes, then drive for about 10 minutes. But I hear the Mazda 3's TPMS simplicity is rare - I guess quite a few require a scanner tool to "wake up" a sensor before the vehicle will see it, and some require tapping into the ECU or something to force a change. But most TPMS systems are better than the one on the Mazda 3 (and likely other Mazdas), as they may tell you the specific tire that needs attention, and some even include the PSI reading. Mazda just says "one of your tires is low - go check them."

 

[destrekor]

Hubcentric rings are important to use. They keep the wheel centered and help the wheel and hub work as they were intended to. Even plastic rings help!

Yeah, that much I gathered online - I'm just wondering how much of a difference in size becomes too much to simply fill with a plastic ring.

 

[JCH13]

Yeah, that much I gathered online - I'm just wondering how much of a difference in size becomes too much to simply fill with a plastic ring.

Within the practical limits of hub/bore sizes this isn't a concern.

 

[destrekor]

Figured as much. Thanks!

 

[Murdoc]

I put my Firestone Winterforce snow tires on recently. Not something I look forward to, but they make a night and day difference on my rwd Ford Ranger compared to the all-seasons in the snow.

 

[Harrod]

Mine automatically switch... no need to reprogram. Are you sure yours need it?

I'll probably find out when I put them on in a few weeks. I'll update this post if I end up having to.

 

[destrekor]

I'll start finding out how well these things help in many aspects starting tomorrow evening, as I'm having the wheels rebalanced (or their balance checked) and then having them put on the vehicle.

I don't have a torque wrench, and considering I just got these, a rebalance is a good idea. I might invest in a good torque wrench and jack for the future. I will be asking how they'll torque, as the Mazda manual calls for 85 ft·lb, yet their inspection said the lug nuts are currently torqued at 100 ft·lb. I don't know how they checked that and if it's accurate.

Won't have much weather until the weekend and who knows if I'll drive during anything, but it'll be consistently in the 30-40ºF range for highs, so I'll at least get cold dry roads to test on, if not wet or a touch snow covered later. And I can compare both performance and road noise that I have with the directional Falken tires currently mounted.

I'll have to have balancing and mounting done in the spring for a new set of tires and wheels then as well. I might be able to get replacement wheels for just the front, but for sure a new set of all-seasons... or, if I'm daring, some kind of performance summer type, but not likely. It's not a turbo or supercharged car, so I can't see it mattering one bit at that point. GOOD all-seasons absolutely, but no high-end summers.

 

[JCH13]

I'll start finding out how well these things help in many aspects starting tomorrow evening, as I'm having the wheels rebalanced (or their balance checked) and then having them put on the vehicle.

[1]I don't have a torque wrench, and considering I just got these, a rebalance is a good idea.[2] I might invest in a good torque wrench and jack for the future. I will be asking how they'll torque, as the Mazda manual calls for 85 ft·lb, yet their inspection said the lug nuts are currently torqued at 100 ft·lb. I don't know how they checked that and if it's accurate.

Won't have much weather until the weekend and who knows if I'll drive during anything, but it'll be consistently in the 30-40ºF range for highs, so I'll at least get cold dry roads to test on, if not wet or a touch snow covered later. And I can compare both performance and road noise that I have with the directional Falken tires currently mounted.

I'll have to have balancing and mounting done in the spring for a new set of tires and wheels then as well. I might be able to get replacement wheels for just the front, but for sure a new set of all-seasons... or, if I'm daring, some kind of performance summer type, but not likely. [3]It's not a turbo or supercharged car, so I can't see it mattering one bit at that point. GOOD all-seasons absolutely, but no high-end summers.

[1] Error. Does not compute. How do you expect rebalancing to help with your lack of a torque wrench?

[2] That is a very good idea.

[3] Tires matter for more than acceleration performance. A tire upgrade improves every performance metric of a car: steering response, lateral traction, and braking traction/feel. With the right tire you might even see an improvement in ride comfort. But hey, your call.

 

[destrekor]

[1] Error. Does not compute. How do you expect rebalancing to help with your lack of a torque wrench?

[2] That is a very good idea.

[3] Tires matter for more than acceleration performance. A tire upgrade improves every performance metric of a car: steering response, lateral traction, and braking traction/feel. With the right tire you might even see an improvement in ride comfort. But hey, your call.

[1] I kind of threw two distinct ideas together there. My bad.

[3] I wasn't really looking at it as a measure of acceleration and grip. I was more focused on simply increased performance all around: a turbocharged car of almost any make will lightly have better lateral grip potential due to the suspension setup, better acceleration, and better top-speed, which also involves likely better potential stopping distances due to higher-performance brakes.
I was merely suggesting it is a waste of money to put on ultra-performance tires that are essentially meant for supercars and exotics, if you have a car that's nowhere close to those categories.

This car will make use of some tiers of performance rubber, more so than, say, a Camry, but I wouldn't put the same tires on this car as I might a Porsche 911 Turbo.

I understand how many metrics a good tire will present itself, there's simply a gulf between good rubber and that which is far too excessive waste of money. There's definitely a line between good performance rubber and bad tires all around, and I'll be looking at good tests that define and showcase these metrics as I get closer to making a purchase toward the spring.

 

[pauldun170]

For the first time in many years I'm wishing for cold weather.
It's been in the high 40's mid 50's and warmer it gets the worse these Blizzaks get.

Take handling of Camry + Blizzak WS70 + unseasonably warm weather = Handling of 50's era Buick.
I didn't think you could make steering any more vague on the car but I was wrong. One thing is for sure. I won't be getting any speeding tickets.

Please accept this as an implied review of Blizzak WS70 warm weather performance.
Verdict - Park the car until it hits 30F

 

[cbrunny]

7C (44F) is what they usually call for in our area before people start getting on their snows. Above that and I guess you're doing more damage to the tires than anything.

Just took my new 14 Cruze Diesel in to get the winter tires put on (purchased with the car in September, dealer was holding them). 2 hrs later they call to tell me they can't put them on because the Diesel Cruze doesn't take the same size rims as the regular Cruze. lol they ordered and tried to install the wrong ones. I guess that hadn't happened to them before - not many Diesels sold in NA, much less in my area (a major Toyota factory is in my city, so lots of Toyotas on the road). That was after a week of waiting for the appointment. Now waiting for parts to come in, then waiting another week for an appointment...

 

[pauldun170]

7C (44F) is what they usually call for in our area before people start getting on their snows. Above that and I guess you're doing more damage to the tires than anything.

Just took my new 14 Cruze Diesel in to get the winter tires put on (purchased with the car in September, dealer was holding them). 2 hrs later they call to tell me they can't put them on because the Diesel Cruze doesn't take the same size rims as the regular Cruze. lol they ordered and tried to install the wrong ones. I guess that hadn't happened to them before - not many Diesels sold in NA, much less in my area (a major Toyota factory is in my city, so lots of Toyotas on the road). That was after a week of waiting for the appointment. Now waiting for parts to come in, then waiting another week for an appointment...

Fortunately, its a station car that doesn't get driven much. I put them on last week knowing we'd have a warm couple days. Since car only sees 25 miles a week figured that the warm weather will help accelerate "breakin" on the tire. That and last week was the only time I was going to have time to mount them over the next couple of weeks.

 

[tsupersonic]

This will be my first year owning winter tires. I bought a new '13 335i xDrive last year, and the tires (Continental Contiprocontact Sport A/S) that came with the car were absolute garbage for upstate NY winter. I ended up getting Blizzaks WS80, and they have held up very well for the 4-6 in. we got so far.

I want dedicated tire/wheel setups for winter & summer. So, I'm probably going to buy a set of (nicer) wheels for summer time, as well as nicer summer tires. I'm ditching Continentals as a brand, seriously worst tire brand ever imo.

 

[Midwayman]

This will be my first year owning winter tires. I bought a new '13 335i xDrive last year, and the tires (Continental Contiprocontact Sport A/S) that came with the car were absolute garbage for upstate NY winter. I ended up getting Blizzaks WS80, and they have held up very well for the 4-6 in. we got so far.

I want dedicated tire/wheel setups for winter & summer. So, I'm probably going to buy a set of (nicer) wheels for summer time, as well as nicer summer tires. I'm ditching Continentals as a brand, seriously worst tire brand ever imo.

Continental makes some good tires and some shitty tires, just like most makes. The extreme contact DWS get lots of positive reviews for a all season for example. I have a set of their winter tires and they're working great and review well. However OEM rubber can be a crapshoot. The Continentals on my MB stock where pieces of shit. Just like the OEM bridgestones I've had on other cars.

 

[Gillbot]

I ski all over the roads in my all seasons. I'm too cheap to buy winters and the company won't pay for em on my company truck so meh. This year I'm getting a new set of snows for MY vehicle though.

I never did bother to order snows for my personal vehicle. I suspect that I probably won't do so either. By the time I need them, it'll be too late and I'll be too lazy to bother. I got the wheels sitting in the garage waiting, just need to decide on a tire and get them ordered.

 

[Belegost]

Continental makes some good tires and some shitty tires, just like most makes. The extreme contact DWS get lots of positive reviews for a all season for example. I have a set of their winter tires and they're working great and review well. However OEM rubber can be a crapshoot. The Continentals on my MB stock where pieces of shit. Just like the OEM bridgestones I've had on other cars.

I put the Continental ExtremeWinterContacts on my C230, and I honestly feel they do better than the Blizzak WS70s on my wife's car (though it's not an entirely fair comparison between her FWD Versa and my RWD C230)

They also did quite well in Tire Rack's test last year.

The big thing is the difference between having actual snow tires, and having a performance oriented all-season.

 

[JCH13]

[1] I kind of threw two distinct ideas together there. My bad.

[3] I wasn't really looking at it as a measure of acceleration and grip. I was more focused on simply increased performance all around: a turbocharged car of almost any make will lightly have better lateral grip potential due to the suspension setup, better acceleration, and better top-speed, which also involves likely better potential stopping distances due to higher-performance brakes.
I was merely suggesting it is a waste of money to put on ultra-performance tires that are essentially meant for supercars and exotics, if you have a car that's nowhere close to those categories.

This car will make use of some tiers of performance rubber, more so than, say, a Camry, but I wouldn't put the same tires on this car as I might a Porsche 911 Turbo.

I understand how many metrics a good tire will present itself, there's simply a gulf between good rubber and that which is far too excessive waste of money. There's definitely a line between good performance rubber and bad tires all around, and I'll be looking at good tests that define and showcase these metrics as I get closer to making a purchase toward the spring.

I'm not saying you put racing slicks on your car. A decent summer tire, like a Yokohama S.Drive or Sumitomo HTRZ II, will cost less than a "top tier" all-season and may perform better in every situation other than snow/ice. If you're already getting winter tires you're just throwing money away on all-seasons since you'll never need the all-seasons mediocre snow capabilities; you'll be paying for something you'll never need.

 

[Howard]

I'm not saying you put racing slicks on your car. A decent summer tire, like a Yokohama S.Drive or Sumitomo HTRZ II, will cost less than a "top tier" all-season and may perform better in every situation other than snow/ice. If you're already getting winter tires you're just throwing money away on all-seasons since you'll never need the all-seasons mediocre snow capabilities; you'll be paying for something you'll never need.

On the other hand, if he's going to drive the car into the ground, all-seasons could be a better choice because they tend to wear out slower.