woodworking experts

[pontifex]

Awhile back I started wood carving. I made a few little things and then I started another project. Most of the wood blocks I have are kind of thick and I wanted to cut the block in half, lengthwise.

I don't have much in the way of tools but I did have a band saw. It worked to cut the block in half like I wanted, however it is not straight. more like a wave, lol.

What is the best and/or easiest way to flatten the cut side out?

Although now thinking about it, I may not need to flatten it out since I will be carving it.

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

A plane or belt sander.

 

[lxskllr]

A plane or belt sander.

This, but in the future, if you need a block that's fairly square, use a guide on the bandsaw, and for Christ's sake, watch your fingers. Shit can happen quick with power saws, and shortcuts can really bite you in the ass.

 

[Markbnj]

This, but in the future, if you need a block that's fairly square, use a guide on the bandsaw, and for Christ's sake, watch your fingers. Shit can happen quick with power saws, and shortcuts can really bite you in the ass.

This, and you're probably not going to get back to square using a sander, shaper, or plane, unless you're really good at it and have some time. Moral of the story is either use a guider as lxskllr suggested, or a table saw, or a handsaw and a mitre box, something like that.

 

[pontifex]

This, but in the future, if you need a block that's fairly square, use a guide on the bandsaw, and for Christ's sake, watch your fingers. Shit can happen quick with power saws, and shortcuts can really bite you in the ass.

I thought about buying a belt sander, like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007D2YAO/...=I5U04NVHHT3F1

But wasn't sure it would do the job. For something fairly small like this, I think it would probably work.

As for the plane, are you referring to something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW680K-...eywords=planer

Or like this: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-...eywords=planer

or even old school like this: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404...eywords=planer

#2 would probably be the best option, but expensive. since the pieces are fairly small, not sure how well #1 or #3 would work. be difficult to clamp down and use them (although I never used a planer before).

I tried rigging up a guide by clamping down another piece of wood on the band saw table. Still didn't work quite as expected. I was definitely being careful when doing this.

 

[olds]

Use a table saw next time

 

[pontifex]

This, and you're probably not going to get back to square using a sander, shaper, or plane, unless you're really good at it and have some time. Moral of the story is either use a guider as lxskllr suggested, or a table saw, or a handsaw and a mitre box, something like that.

It wouldn't need to be perfect for my project. and like i said, since i'll be carving it anyhow, i probably don't even need to do anything to it.

 

[lxskllr]

I used hand tools exclusively for years, and still prefer them, so I would get an old school blade plane. They're slower, and take more work to operate and maintain, but imo, it's a more artful way to work, and more relaxing, with less noise. Your choice, but since you're working as a hobby, using manual tools gives you more hobby to do.

 

[pontifex]

Use a table saw next time

Yes, that would have been ideal, but unfortunately don't have one and don't have money to be buy one either, which is why the bandsaw was used.

 

[Hayabusa Rider]

Yes, that would have been ideal, but unfortunately don't have one and don't have money to be buy one either, which is why the bandsaw was used.

Make sure your tension is properly set, the blade guard is the right height and use a fence. If you don't have one use a pair of clamps and a straight board. Make a test cut because of potential drift.

 

[Imaginer]

One thing with the band saw, is you have to make sure the blade tracks properly in addition to using a fence guide (that is also calibrated to be parallel to the blade.

It involves setting the guide bearings, and making sure the band saw blade is running evenly balanced with no drift on the tires on the wheels. Alot of tweaking to ensure you have a tool that is able to cut without any "weave" or jagged lines.

Look into your operator's manual for proper adjustments. You may also want to look into a better blade (if you have worn it or if it is the stock blade).

Some here have also suggested a table saw. However, for ripping stock, the 1/8th blade of the table saw in many cases versus a THINNER blade of the band saw means you aren't opt to waste much of your intended fed wood. I would say it is much easier to use a table saw in straight, cross, and rip cuts (good fence and blade adjustment again - pending).

making sure the blade and fence guide are as close to perfect in being parallel, also eliminates kickback (that as stereotypically goes) and may lead to accidents. Also make sure the blade is running perpendicular to the table for the 90 degree setting.

For a table saw, if you are sawing long pieces, having a kerf splitter would also reduce binding to the blade, that would also cause kickback or problems. The idea is that as you run the piece through, it should be smooth with not much force or fighting. If you have to force a piece, there is problems one would need to address (blade cleanliness, adjustments, stock too thick for the power of the machine).

Here is an example.

http://www.rockler.com/micro-jig-splitter-steelpro-system-thin-kerf

Also, if one were to use these tools and do not have strong fingers or hands to feed the wood or to make the adjustments as you feed the stock, having a featherboard for boards would also keep the piece fed forward instead of kicking back. That would involve a fence with a T-track to set one up.

And by all means, take it easy, and be in no rush when running these cuts. When you rush things, things can get into an accident quickly if one isn't calm and in control.

With this in mind, almost one would never need to use a sander to "flatten" a piece (in fact, it would add a far more non-uniform plane especially if one were to handle a piece by hand on a power sander). Jointers and planers, perhaps, but that is reserved for truing and milling a piece to a workable dimension for the guide fences of the other tools. Sanders are meant for finishing a piece's surface.