Question Would you trust inexpensive fittings?

[Craig C]

If I go with knurled metal compression (for soft tubing) I would need almost $200 worth (CPU, GPU, 2 rad...).
There are cheaper chrome-plated ones under $3 each, but are they somehow inferior? Would they galvanize with nickel-plated copper/brass?

What about Nylon/Polypropylene black plastic kind like these barbed fittings? I'm concerned about them breaking.

(I don't have to buy from the above store, they just had a wide selection.)
Any experiences?

 

[aigomorla]

those u linked at nickled plated brass.
So they would work fine, however you will need hose clamps.

As for nylon fittings, i haven't used them in a very long time as they were mostly phased out for brass ones.
You could also look for "barrow" fittings, as they are a lot cheaper then eK and Bitspower, and are just about as good.

I would avoid some no name fittings tho. They sometimes are not properly plated, or they are not made of brass, and more alu.,

You just need to worry about ALU when looking for fittings, as that is what will corrode.

 

[DrMrLordX]

Are nickel-plated fittings a problem in a loop with a silver kill coil?

 

[JEDIYoda]

I personally would not use zip ties!!!

 

[DrMrLordX]

I personally would not use zip ties!!!

It would be funny if you tried.

 

[aigomorla]

It would be funny if you tried.

:X

I plead the 5th on that...
It works as long as you tighten the ziptie in the direction the barb tightens for obvious reasons.
A LCS loop is not high pressure, your only using the zipties so it applies pressure on the lips on the barb so it forms a seal, and hence can work, only if you tighten in the proper direction.

To be honest would i use it again... only if i had no other options, and i had some really cool color zipties.
Otherwise i would probably use compression fittings with matching tubing.

Are nickel-plated fittings a problem in a loop with a silver kill coil?

Depends on the barb and nickle plating.
Chrome usually has no problems, most are chrome plated if they are shiny more then nickle.
Cheap nickle and modern plated barbs i would say no.

Even then when silver and nickle reacts, its not like copper and alu where you melt a hole though it, and it causes a gasous chemical reaction.
The nickle just starts to flake, and peal.

IMO id rather have nickle flake and peak where its not visible, then have to run antifreeze and deal with staining, and other sorts of nonsense.
But that is just me.

 

[DrMrLordX]

:X

I plead the 5th on that...

Heehee.

Oh, and +1 for that being a LANParty.

Depends on the barb and nickle plating.
Chrome usually has no problems, most are chrome plated if they are shiny more then nickle.
Cheap nickle and modern plated barbs i would say no.

Even then when silver and nickle reacts, its not like copper and alu where you melt a hole though it, and it causes a gasous chemical reaction.
The nickle just starts to flake, and peal.

IMO id rather have nickle flake and peak where its not visible, then have to run antifreeze and deal with staining, and other sorts of nonsense.
But that is just me.

Anything wrong with using cupramine instead of a kill coil? I would be slightly worried about the flakes messing with pumps or something, but I'm not really experienced so I have no point of reference to go off of here. Using a glycol seems like asking for sludge problems.

edit: not to thread-jack, but if you have time to throw me some general advice and component suggestions, I posted in the watercool.de thread since I'm looking into getting my feet wet with a MO-RA3 and Heatkiller IV. If not then no big woop.

 

[aigomorla]

Anything wrong with using cupramine instead of a kill coil?

no nothing is wrong with it, other then it needs to be recharged regularly because it will deposit itself in the tubing, and not circulate though your coolant which is what you really want.

And you definitely do not want to OD on it.

That is why i love silver, it works over time, and gets more and more concentrated over time, hence you really cant OD on it.
And when it gets close, its time for your bi yearly flush, so you start from ground 0 all over again.

 

[DrMrLordX]

no nothing is wrong with it, other then it needs to be recharged regularly because it will deposit itself in the tubing, and not circulate though your coolant which is what you really want.

Bleh that's irritating. Can nickel flakes interfere with pumps?

 

[Craig C]

you really cant OD on it (cupramine, silver)

What are you talking about? OD?

 

[aigomorla]

Bleh that's irritating. Can nickel flakes interfere with pumps?

Its more likely to get stuck in your cpu block, then ruin your pumps.
Were talking tiny flakes.. and not on the level of cereal flakes.

What are you talking about? OD?

OD = Overdose.

 

[DrMrLordX]

Its more likely to get stuck in your cpu block, then ruin your pumps.
Were talking tiny flakes.. and not on the level of cereal flakes.

Hmm okay. Wonder if it's possible to strip nickel plating with a heated solution of silver before introducing it to the loop. That's a roundabout way of doing things, but when you can't get the product you want without nickel plating . . .

OD = Overdose.

What happens if you use too much cupramine?

 

[aigomorla]

Im not really sure about cupramine as we really didnt use that in the hobby.
I know about it because i have a reef tank as another hobby and cupramine is commonly used to treat ich and other fish parasites.

I do know that if you OD on copper2sulfate, it would lead to orings failing, and also a very bad discoloration on your tubing.
It would also decrease your pH making your water acidic.

However on Cupramine, it should be pH neutral, but i could still see it discoloring tubing.
So i am going to guess it would make your tubing discolored and possibly accelerate the plasticiser getting dissolved if your not using a plasticizer free tubing.

 

[DrMrLordX]

@aigomorla

Gotcha. I'll be avoiding Cu2SO4 though I've seen some people try it in the past.