X1950Pro water cooling

[Nirach]

If you look at the Sapphire X1950Pro Ultimate, it has an additional heatsink at the rear of the card - This appears to cover three things for cooling. I'm running a standard 256mb 1950 Pro myself, as such don't have that heatsink spare.

Although some waterblocks list compatability with 1950 Pro units - They don't appear to cover these three items, which having a dedicated heatsink must be capable of getting quite warm. I would expect they are the VRM modules, judging by the location in relation to the power socket.

Is there a water block for the 1950Pro series that covers these things, or am I looking at fabricating something that is similar to the Ultimate for the one card (I'd buy the ultimate as the second - To reduce the amount of custom blocks I have to make)?

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Nirach
If you look at the Sapphire X1950Pro Ultimate, it has an additional heatsink at the rear of the card - This appears to cover three things for cooling. I'm running a standard 256mb 1950 Pro myself, as such don't have that heatsink spare.

Although some waterblocks list compatability with 1950 Pro units - They don't appear to cover these three items, which having a dedicated heatsink must be capable of getting quite warm. I would expect they are the VRM modules, judging by the location in relation to the power socket.

Is there a water block for the 1950Pro series that covers these things, or am I looking at fabricating something that is similar to the Ultimate for the one card (I'd buy the ultimate as the second - To reduce the amount of custom blocks I have to make)?

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

correct me if im wrong, but i think your looking at the mosfets on the card.

These require cooling of some sort. You can buy a sink and thermaltape over it. Or use an Thermal Adhesive.

There are blocks which over these mosfets. However, in order to recomend them, i would need to know your pump!. Full Cover blocks, the ones that cover the whole card, usually compensate for this issue, however, they will, cause your temps to raise.

A lot of people have been complaining reciently with high powered thermochill radiators, on there cooling. This is because of poor waterflow though all there blocks. This is caused by a very restrictive loop, aka full cover blocks, and weak pumps. D5 class, on multi block loop.



http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekfucowafora.html

An example. However, i wouldnt recomend you dropping this block, unless you have a strong pump. Your temps will suffer greatly by doing this. And there are cheaper alternatives, but not as pretty.

Stay away from koolance. Honestly, that company should just stay in UK, where 1/4ID diameter is the norm. Here we like to use 1/2ID. However, i am using one to cool my Xbox360. Thats about all there good for.

 

[Nirach]

Personally, I'm using 3/8th due to space inside the case, I found that airflow for non W/c parts was really restricted by the 1/2" I was using.

As for pump strength, I was planning to up the current pump to an Eheim 1250, I figured two GPU blocks, DD TDX and a Thermochill PA120.2 should be no huge issue for that pump.

As for Koolance - I have some of their parts in my 360 too
My major concern is, I've looked at my uncles X1900 Xfire with his Tyee blocks, and they don't look like they would provide decent coverage over the L shaped mosfets (Pictured at the end of the card in an L shape, just about (Pink and the two grey) Text)

At least - From what I can tell. I just wondered if anyone knew better, before I jumped right in

 

[aigomorla]

on a pump like that..

i dont recomend a FC block, expecially with a TDX which requires an accelerator to get somewhat decient performance.

I would just get your uncle a MCW60, instead of the ATIR. And put air ram sinks on those mosfets and eveyrthing around.

The ehiem with a ATIR might cause your cpu temps, as well as overall temps, to be higher then you normally would get with a MCW60.


That is my 2 cents...


If your uncle doesnt oc, and just wants bling, get the ATIR.
IF you want to give your uncle perfomance, MCW60 FTW! and the left over money, id get him a d-tek fusion.

That should really be a better upgrade then just a FC gpu block.

 

[TheRyuu]

I wouldn't really ever recommend a block that covers the whole card. It's not worth it and can't be used on the next card you may buy.
First, if your new to WC read every sticky on this page:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70

I recently got this:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcgpuwa1.html

For my 8800 card and I liked it. Kept the card nice and cool too. If you get a water block that doesn't cover the ram/mosfets just get some ram sinks and some thermal tape like this:
http://www.bestbyteinc.com/Cooling_for_...25mm_(1in)_X_50_Meter_Roll/Page_2/TIM-******-002.html

Although the RAM sinks will probably come with thermal tape on them but if you should need to re-seat them the extra thermal tape (which you'll probably never use all of it) will come in handy.

Simplicity in a Water Cooling loop is a good thing.
Full cover water blocks just make it more complicated.

Also, as a PSA, please, PLEASE use the metal worm clamps to secure the tubing. Those plastic things are crap.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: wizboy11

I recently got this:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcgpuwa1.html

Also, as a PSA, please, PLEASE use the metal worm clamps to secure the tubing. Those plastic things are crap.

Heh which is what i commented on.


But FC blocks are nice if you have the flow like i do with 2 x DDC-2

And to answer your last comment. On 3/8ths i dont see the issue with zip ties.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/IMG_0574.jpg

<3 zip ties!!

But i wouldnt use that on anything larger then 7/16ID. If tygon was the choice of tubing at 1/2ID... then as wiz suggests metal worm drive clamps!

 

[Nirach]

Just got a second 1950Pro, same as the previous (Sapphire 256), and guess what. It's got a different block on it, and would be fine with any of the solutions mentioned here, without additional fabrication.

Question is, do I bother W/Cing? I have no intention of O/Cing, and they barely hit above 70C in early summer, and the fans rarely ramp up audibly.

 

[aigomorla]

as i have said:

Watercooling is only recomended for people that:

1. want lower temps
2. Want quiet
3. Overclock


If those 3 dont apply, save yourself the route of water and just air cool it.

 

[Nirach]

Well, I already have watercooling, for the CPU, and have done for quite some time. That, unlike the GPUs, is overclocked.

I would prefer lower temps on my GPUS, I can imagine during some proper gaming sessions that they will spike well above the ~70 I've seen.

Besides which, from what I understand, the 1950s have poor O/Cinc capablities anyway.

 

[aigomorla]

then you answered your own question

keep them on air. Theres nothing wrong with keeping them on air.


If you dont need watercooling, dont get it. :]

People usually get surpised when they find out, 2/3 recomendations i give usually results in air cooling. I dont push water unless your ready for it, or unless its what you wanted.

:]


Enjoy~

 

[Nirach]

Originally posted by: aigomorla
then you answered your own question

keep them on air. Theres nothing wrong with keeping them on air.


If you dont need watercooling, dont get it. :]

People usually get surpised when they find out, 2/3 recomendations i give usually results in air cooling. I dont push water unless your ready for it, or unless its what you wanted.

:]


Enjoy~

I've actually just ditched my W/C loop all together.

I have two 1950's now, and as both are different. See image Text for a depiction of what I mean. It'd be too much of a pain in the backside to W/C the both of them, with their different layouts.

I'm using a thermalright XP120 or some such nonsense for the CPU right now, same clocking and I'm only 10C hotter. I'll get my feet wet when the R600s and some appropriate blocks are released, me thinks.

Thanks for your help, too.

 

[aigomorla]

np :]


dont feel you need to watercool anything.

You only should watercool when you need to, or want to.


And you should know what i mean when i say YOU need to.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: wizboy11
I wouldn't really ever recommend a block that covers the whole card. It's not worth it and can't be used on the next card you may buy.

Also, as a PSA, please, PLEASE use the metal worm clamps to secure the tubing. Those plastic things are crap.

Full cover blocks are fine if, like every thing else, you know what you're getting into. There's aboslutely nothing wrong with covering multiple heat sources on a video card as long as you have the surface area to dissipate the added heat. As for one generation of block not working on the next generation of cards, isn't that to be expected? If $125 for a new block every few months (depending on how often you updgrade, of course) will bust your wallet, then stock cooling may be a better option in general.

As for nylon clamps, I'd have to respectfully disagree. Depending on the construction of your loop, they're just fine. I wouldn't even consider using worm clamps on my nylon Storm barbs. The clamps that came with it have been in service for over a year now and show no sign of wear or leaking.

 

[Nirach]

Originally posted by: aigomorla
np :]


dont feel you need to watercool anything.

You only should watercool when you need to, or want to.


And you should know what i mean when i say YOU need to.

I like W/C, because I'm pretty much the only person I know in person (As oppose to online) who does (did) it.

And I liked the temps during the summer >.>

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: Nirach

Originally posted by: aigomorla
np :]


dont feel you need to watercool anything.

You only should watercool when you need to, or want to.


And you should know what i mean when i say YOU need to.

I like W/C, because I'm pretty much the only person I know in person (As oppose to online) who does (did) it.

And I liked the temps during the summer >.>

Yup! I love being able to fling open the windows during summer and still be able to compute.

 

[aigomorla]

bah im kinda bored with water.

Im at the max you could possibly get with h2o.



Must resist jinu1 phase machine!....