YAGT: OMG I love guns

[IGemini]

So I think I found the next toy I'm going to order Well when I can between furniture and saving for the baby. But I saw this on FPSRussia and thought it was badass

http://www.bullpupunlimited.com/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgotE6V30z4

WANT!

Big fan of the bullpup concept but it's really hard to find good ones. I'm not usually impressed with FPSRussia's videos (too over-the-top and gimmicky sometimes) but that was pretty damn good.

 

[IEC]

WANT!

Big fan of the bullpup concept but it's really hard to find good ones. I'm not usually impressed with FPSRussia's videos (too over-the-top and gimmicky sometimes) but that was pretty damn good.

Having owned a Tavor which is IMO one of the best "bullpups" I still couldn't get over the 9+ lb trigger pull. My advice to anyone looking at a bullpup is to try before you buy.

 

[rudeguy]

I love guns too! lol.. screw people who don't like them hehe..

Please stay out unless you wish to contribute.

 

[phucheneh]

I liked the trigger on the STG-556 (AUG clone; I think that was what it was called) I shot. Not overly heavy at all; probably better than most cheap AR's. I can see validity to the thought of bullpup triggers generally being worse, especially in kits, because of the use of a long linkage. But they really need not be.

I like that shotgun kit a lot. Bullpup kits are usually a travesty...but that one is aesthetically okay and fundamentally well-executed. Tube-fed shotgun is probably always the best candidate for 'bullpupping.' Highly modular parts/easy execution and doesn't put an extremely awkward mag in your way like those horrid AK kits you see.

They should've just made a vert grip into that pump handle, though. Doesn't make sense to NOT use one, and the majority of the widely-available ones (i.e. cheap) are probably doing to constantly work their way loose.

 

[shortylickens]

Where is the firing pin?

 

[phucheneh]

Are you actually asking or trying to make a point?

My stance is that you can make a bullpup trigger with no more more moving parts than a standard rifle or shotgun. Merely making one long part to transmit the motion should not inherently make the pull worse, right? Well, I guess it's extra mass to move...but you can make physics work for you instead of against you with the proper amplification of force (i.e. that 'leverage' thing) and a good sear design.

 

[rudeguy]

Where is the firing pin?

I don't really care. I just know I want one.

 

[Phanuel]

The linkage, primarily the associated tolerances with the connection to it, are what make bullpup triggers mushy and lacking in feel.

 

[rudeguy]

So...it's time to put together a zombie gun. Did enough research to learn that I don't want an off the shelf AR. I want to build one.

The receiver is what has to go through an FFL right?

 

[Phanuel]

Zargon's picture is the firearm part, yup. That's all that needs to go through an FFL.

 

[phucheneh]

Lower receiver. Only the chunk of stamped steel (or plastic or aluminum alloy whatever it might be made from). Everything else can be bought off the internet and shipped to you.

 

[rudeguy]

Lower receiver. Only the chunk of stamped steel (or plastic or aluminum alloy whatever it might be made from). Everything else can be bought off the internet and shipped to you.

I can get a stripped DPMS aluminum lower local for ~$100. 5.56 not 223. That should be an OK starter right?

Then probably 6 months of me bugging you guys about the rest

 

[velillen]

I can get a stripped DPMS aluminum lower local for ~$100. 5.56 not 223. That should be an OK starter right?

Then probably 6 months of me bugging you guys about the rest

Nothing wrong with a DPMS lower. Id personally go for another brand myself just for the name. You could get a Spikes, PSA, Mega, or similar. Really any of the lowers that are "mil-spec" and in the 75-130 dollar range are going to all be the same except maybe very minor differences.

 

[rudeguy]

Nothing wrong with a DPMS lower. Id personally go for another brand myself just for the name. You could get a Spikes, PSA, Mega, or similar. Really any of the lowers that are "mil-spec" and in the 75-130 dollar range are going to all be the same except maybe very minor differences.

My thing is I want something pretty much blank. My brother in law can do really serious engraving. His machine shop just got a super laser machine for it. I want something I can use as a canvas basically.

 

[phucheneh]

I would ask him what material is best to work with.

For some reason I was thinking the 'original' AR design was steel, but I think aluminum has always been the norm. I've seen steel receivers, though. Even stainless. Heard of titanium.

...but you're probably gonna end up with aluminum. I'm sure there are pile of different alloys, though, and certainly different manufacturing processes. It might make little to no difference; just something I would think about if my intention was to make a super-pretty engraved lower.

 

[rudeguy]

I would ask him what material is best to work with.

For some reason I was thinking the 'original' AR design was steel, but I think aluminum has always been the norm. I've seen steel receivers, though. Even stainless. Heard of titanium.

...but you're probably gonna end up with aluminum. I'm sure there are pile of different alloys, though, and certainly different manufacturing processes. It might make little to no difference; just something I would think about if my intention was to make a super-pretty engraved lower.

No...This laser engraves everything from leather to steel to rubber. Saying it's industrial would be an understatement.

 

[coxmaster]

I can get a stripped DPMS aluminum lower local for ~$100. 5.56 not 223. That should be an OK starter right?

Then probably 6 months of me bugging you guys about the rest

Pretty much any aluminum lower will get the job done.. $100 is a bit high if its just a stripped lower, but not too bad. Also the caliber of the lower doesn't mean anything at all

 

[rudeguy]

Pretty much any aluminum lower will get the job done.. $100 is a bit high if its just a stripped lower, but not too bad. Also the caliber of the lower doesn't mean anything at all

Thanks.

I realize I could save a few bucks ordering online but I don't want to mess with FFL over a few dollars. Just want to make sure it isn't horrible.

 

[velillen]

My thing is I want something pretty much blank. My brother in law can do really serious engraving. His machine shop just got a super laser machine for it. I want something I can use as a canvas basically.

Not sure i follow you. Pretty much all lowers are going to have the Logo, Serial number, caliber, and company address on the left side of the magwell. The other side of the magwell is (least everyone ive seen) blank and where most engravings are placed. Unless you go with an 80% and finish it yourself that is.

Most are going to be Polymer (cheaper and not for engraving), 7075 T6 Forge, or 6065 T6 Forge. At 100ish youd better be getting a 7075 as 6065 lowers tend to go for 75-80 bucks. In reality youll never notice the difference between the material types but from a money standpoint its nice to know

 

[rudeguy]

Not sure i follow you. Pretty much all lowers are going to have the Logo, Serial number, caliber, and company address on the left side of the magwell. The other side of the magwell is (least everyone ive seen) blank and where most engravings are placed. Unless you go with an 80% and finish it yourself that is.

Most are going to be Polymer (cheaper and not for engraving), 7075 T6 Forge, or 6065 T6 Forge. At 100ish youd better be getting a 7075 as 6065 lowers tend to go for 75-80 bucks. In reality youll never notice the difference between the material types but from a money standpoint its nice to know

I saw some that had huge emblems on them and I want to avoid that.

Sorry for being ignorant on these things. I've never owned a rifle, let alone built one.

 

[Skel]

I saw some that had huge emblems on them and I want to avoid that.

Sorry for being ignorant on these things. I've never owned a rifle, let alone built one.

I found this to be helpful when I was looking at lowers.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=50947

 

[boomhower]

I saw some that had huge emblems on them and I want to avoid that.

Sorry for being ignorant on these things. I've never owned a rifle, let alone built one.

A lower is a lower is a lower. As long as it's forged and in spec which most are you will be just fine. If you local FFL has one you can just go that route. PSA, Rock River, Aero, Spikes, etc. Given your preference for plain this may interest you. You can consider billet but they are much more expensive and actually weaker but almost no one would ever have an issue. Another option is Shadow Ops Weaponry. They will engrave about whatever you want for free. But be aware it a laser engrave and not a deep engraving. I have one an love it. I have theirs, Aero, and Daniel Defense. They are all pretty much the same with the exception of the DD having a flared magwell. Do not overpay for a lower because of the name. The vast majority come out of the same factories, they just put a different stamp on them.

 

[Merad]

My thing is I want something pretty much blank. My brother in law can do really serious engraving. His machine shop just got a super laser machine for it. I want something I can use as a canvas basically.

Look into 80% lowers. They're supposed to be pretty easy to finish if you have the machine tools (no problem for your BIL I'm sure). If you go that route then can avoid paying the FFL transfer and it should be totally blank for your own engraving.

 

[rudeguy]

I found this to be helpful when I was looking at lowers.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=50947

Thanks!

I like to think I know a bit about guns. Then I get into something like this where I know nothing. It's humbling but fun. I love learning and you all sharing your knowledge is appreciated.

 

[coxmaster]

Thanks!

I like to think I know a bit about guns. Then I get into something like this where I know nothing. It's humbling but fun. I love learning and you all sharing your knowledge is appreciated.

There are some lowers available with relatively small rollmarks, unfortunately its pretty uncommon to find any that have absolutely no rollmarks