YAGT: OMG I love guns

[Zargon]

Import legality is a moot/academic point given that Glock has a factory in Smyrna, GA.

was about to post that.....

 

[shortylickens]

Pick this one up yesterday. Double stack Commander size 9mm with a .22TCM barrel as well.

THATS FUCKIN SEXY!!

 

[phucheneh]

was about to post that.....

They still ain't making a single stack 9mm here. And not importing one.

So your moot point is a moot point.

 

[Zargon]

true that.

wish they would

I would buy one pretty much ASAP, no matter how much I may like my kahr, I love me some glocks for some reason

 

[IGemini]

Rumor has it there was a prototype in (final?) testing only a couple months ago with a release this year, though who knows how reliable the source is.

I don't really care if they release it or not. The only Glock that interests me is the 30S.

 

[slugg]

Import legality is a moot/academic point given that Glock has a factory in Smyrna, GA.

For pocket 9s with less travel, I think your best bets are in this order:
Springfield XDs
Ruger LC9s
M&P Shield
KelTec PF9

I went to the range and checked all of these out, plus a couple more. Out of this list, I really liked the M&P Shield the best. The price is quite reasonable, too. In a close second was the Ruger LC9s - but ultimately, the combination of way too many safeties and the impossibility if field stripping without a dummy mag (wtf?) made it lose in my book.

But then I tried the Sig Sauer P938. Damn, that gun is awesome. Expensive, but freaking awesome. My only concern with this gun is how far the levers (i.e slide release and thumb safety) stick out. Basically, I'm worried about it it either digging into my skin or now sticking out farther from my body, kinda defeating the purpose of getting such a tiny gun.

The thing about price is, to a point, price is not a problem: it's an expense. A problem would be not ever finding a gun that I like and works for me. Yea, of course I'd like to spend less than the $650 that the Sig asks for, but at lease money can be solved in a straight forward way.

Thoughts?

 

[IGemini]

Any decent holster will have enough material to either cushion against the levers or lift them far enough away from your body.

In my experience you're more likely to get digging from the holster than the pistol. My favored one is made from IM plastic for my M&P9c that digs only if it's resting on my hip at a certain angle. A small shift and I'm good to go.

 

[Brian Stirling]

Picking up a new AR this Friday. Ordered a RRA LAR-15 R3 Competition AR with heavy 18" barrel with compensator and collapsible stock. I already have a Bushmaster Varminter AR with heavy 24" barrel so the RRA will be over 6 inches shorter.


Brian

 

[velillen]

Thanks for the help.

I did get to the gun store yesterday just before they closed. They had a CMMG 8" barrel for $170 and a 10.5" (I think, or 10") Odin barrel for $229. The guy there reiterated that 8-9" was all that was needed for 300 BLK and showed me his 300 BLK AR pistol and said it shot out to 300 yards great.

Shooting great out to three hundred yards accomplishing what? Just banging steel? Thats not that impressive But really these days any modern barrel should be able to do 1-2 moa at 100 yards. Unless its the 50 dollar special no brand barrel that is. The CMMG would do just fine.

They had a complete upper but the thing was some absurd price, like $750, so I'm just gonna build my own. I'd like to anyway since I've been thinking about building one and have the lower built already. Probably gonna go with a 7" Troy Alpha rail (I have a 13" one on my 556 AR and love it) but I'd prefer a keymod rail. Not sure where I can get one. I know Wheaton Arms makes one but I didn't see one at their website.

750 isnt really that bad depending on who made it. AAC uppers are more like 900-1k it seems like.

If you are building id suggest an adjustable gas block. Makes shooting suppress a bit nice (can tune it for less blowback gases)

 

[corwin]

I went to the range and checked all of these out, plus a couple more. Out of this list, I really liked the M&P Shield the best. The price is quite reasonable, too. In a close second was the Ruger LC9s - but ultimately, the combination of way too many safeties and the impossibility if field stripping without a dummy mag (wtf?) made it lose in my book.

But then I tried the Sig Sauer P938. Damn, that gun is awesome. Expensive, but freaking awesome. My only concern with this gun is how far the levers (i.e slide release and thumb safety) stick out. Basically, I'm worried about it it either digging into my skin or now sticking out farther from my body, kinda defeating the purpose of getting such a tiny gun.

The thing about price is, to a point, price is not a problem: it's an expense. A problem would be not ever finding a gun that I like and works for me. Yea, of course I'd like to spend less than the $650 that the Sig asks for, but at lease money can be solved in a straight forward way.

Thoughts?

Get the 938...you won't be sorry

 

[phucheneh]

Re: Sig P238/938

I just don't understand the concept of a SAO pocket pistol. I understand that a good SA/DA would be difficult to make in that kind of size, but people have gotten pretty close. Most the rest have gone with with DAO or striker for good reason.

If you want to, say, carry it on your belt with an extended mag...sure, why not? But for what I see as the intended purpose (pocket or deep IWB carry)...meh. That kinda gun is not big enough to want to deal with a manual safety lever. And DAO or striker (depending on the setup) is the way to go for a safetyless gun.

On a related note, I picked up my P290 today. Very impressed with it. Anyone who says this is a bad trigger is a blithering idiot...it's better than a very vast majority of double-actions.

Actually very similar to a Kahr. Has a little more of the DA 'feel' of the action working, rather than the Kahr's largely empty takeup. But effort and overall travel feel similar.

 

[MongGrel]

Drive by catching up on my gun P0rn.

 

[Svnla]

Interesting article about bolt action = http://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/controlled-feed-vs-push-feed-rifles/

 

[RampantAndroid]

Finally got the scope mounted on my M21 properly:

I plan to grab some of Tom's gun stock wax to rub on to the wood stock next.

Also, first REAL cleaning of the gun since buying it from my friend. Points to anyone who knows what the green goo is:

 

[clamum]

As I've mentioned, I'm in the process of building my first AR (pistol; 300 BLK). I believe I just need to order a BCG (probably going to go with the WMD NiB-X coated BCG) now.

So I'm also curious if I should check headspacing of the pistol after I get it together. Do you guys recommend doing this when putting together an AR? I checked Brownell's and they have Go/No-Go gauges but they're freaking $40 a piece, so I'd rather not order them unless it's completely necessary. I don't intend on building another AR, at least for the foreseeable future, so it's kind of a one-time thing for me.

 

[irishScott]

Re: Sig P238/938

I just don't understand the concept of a SAO pocket pistol. I understand that a good SA/DA would be difficult to make in that kind of size, but people have gotten pretty close. Most the rest have gone with with DAO or striker for good reason.

If you want to, say, carry it on your belt with an extended mag...sure, why not? But for what I see as the intended purpose (pocket or deep IWB carry)...meh. That kinda gun is not big enough to want to deal with a manual safety lever. And DAO or striker (depending on the setup) is the way to go for a safetyless gun.

SAO and the P238/938 are popular because of the better trigger, same as other 1911s. I can hit better with my P238 than my friend's LCP, even point-shooting without looking at the sights (the P238/938 have GREAT sights for pocket guns).

As for the safety, why does the size of the gun or where it's carried matter? That's like saying seatbelts are pointless on any car smaller than a pick-up. Any SAO gun needs a manual safety IMO, otherwise you're just asking for an AD. Virtually everyone else has gone with DAO/Striker because it's a more accessible system, you don't have to train with the safety. For the vast majority of gun owners who don't practice as much as they should, or simply don't want to worry about it, it's the better option.

For my part I've practiced my draw to the point where even if I'm drawing a revolver my thumb instinctively swipes where the safety would be (it's actually caused a few cylinder malfunctions lol). My home defense is a 1911, my carry (P238) is a 1911, so for me it works.

As for why I went 1911, I'm proficient but I'm not perfect, and under stress a good chunk of my trigger technique will likely be going bye-bye. If I'm going to jerk a trigger, I want to be jerking a short, light, 1911 trigger that will be impacted the least by said shortcomings.

 

[RampantAndroid]

As I've mentioned, I'm in the process of building my first AR (pistol; 300 BLK). I believe I just need to order a BCG (probably going to go with the WMD NiB-X coated BCG) now.

So I'm also curious if I should check headspacing of the pistol after I get it together. Do you guys recommend doing this when putting together an AR? I checked Brownell's and they have Go/No-Go gauges but they're freaking $40 a piece, so I'd rather not order them unless it's completely necessary. I don't intend on building another AR, at least for the foreseeable future, so it's kind of a one-time thing for me.

I always check head spacing on guns before shooting them; I also shoot guns that are over 50 years old and were many times used in wars...

The one time I built an AR, we didn't head space it. However, on principle I think it's a good idea. Have you considered going to a local shop that has a smith and asking to borrow theirs for a couple minutes?

 

[clamum]

I always check head spacing on guns before shooting them; I also shoot guns that are over 50 years old and were many times used in wars...

The one time I built an AR, we didn't head space it. However, on principle I think it's a good idea. Have you considered going to a local shop that has a smith and asking to borrow theirs for a couple minutes?

Hmmm. Yeah I was thinking about bringing it to the local gun shop where I bought some of the parts and asking them if they'd do it (or if I could borrow their tool). I suppose that's my best bet if I don't want to invest in gauges myself. Am I correct in understanding that to "check headspacing," you use two gauges, a Go and a No-Go?

 

[RampantAndroid]

Hmmm. Yeah I was thinking about bringing it to the local gun shop where I bought some of the parts and asking them if they'd do it (or if I could borrow their tool). I suppose that's my best bet if I don't want to invest in gauges myself. Am I correct in understanding that to "check headspacing," you use two gauges, a Go and a No-Go?

Kinda. In the case of a brand new gun, sure - it should be good enough to have those two. There's a third gauge however - the field gauge. It is the biggest gauge. To better explain:

• Go: Sized to the correct SAAMI spec, more or less the smallest size of the spec. All rounds should be this size with good quality rounds.
  
• No Go: Sized to the maximum size allowed by the SAAMI spec. It's still safe to fire if the no go gauge fits; it just means that brass can expand a little too much, reducing its life. It also means you might have misfires, depending on how long the stroke of your striker is (if it's too short, it might not contact the primer.)
  
• Field: Above the maximum SAAMI size. This should never chamber. If this round chambers, the gun is totally unsafe.

A brand new gun should never chamber the no go. An antique is fine if it chambers the no go, but doesn't chamber the field gauge - just don't expect it to be totally reliable or accurate.

Personally, I pick up gauges for any calibers I fire (except the revolver rounds...) Yes, that's expensive...however, I prefer to make sure my guns are safe every so often. But again, I fire antiques. My oldest is a 103 year old shotgun that has minor pitting in the barrel. If you plan to shoot hot loads, a gauge might pay dividends to help you keep an eye on gun health. If you plan to just shoot SAAMI spec ammo, you're fine.

 

[velillen]

Hmmm. Yeah I was thinking about bringing it to the local gun shop where I bought some of the parts and asking them if they'd do it (or if I could borrow their tool). I suppose that's my best bet if I don't want to invest in gauges myself. Am I correct in understanding that to "check headspacing," you use two gauges, a Go and a No-Go?

local shops are where i go when i need go-no-go gauges. If you do business there more thna likely they will gladly help you out for free. It takes all of two minutes to go the tests and usually they want to see your "creation" anyways

 

[pontifex]

local shops are where i go when i need go-no-go gauges. If you do business there more thna likely they will gladly help you out for free. It takes all of two minutes to go the tests and usually they want to see your "creation" anyways

I had a local shop check a few of my mil-surps and they did it for free.

If you're going to buy or build a bunch of guns of a specific caliber, it might be good to buy the gauges, but you would need at least 2 gauges per caliber and they're generally $20+ a piece.

 

[CurseTheSky]

FWIW, I've had:

M&P Shield 9mm
Sig P938
Kahr PM9

I've test fired (1-2 mags):
Kimber Solo

I've handled:
Springfield XDs 9mm
Ruger LC9

I still have the Shield and the P938. The Kimber jammed every few rounds at the range, so I ruled that out. The XDs just didn't feel right in my hands, and the LC9 had a horrible trigger.

The Sig is my primary carry gun. It was a little picky about ammo for the first 200 rounds, but flawless since. For such a small gun, it's amazingly accurate and just feels great in my hand. I like the fact that I can get custom grips for it, too. Mine currently has some high gloss Cocobolo from High Figure Grips.

 

[MongGrel]

Finally got the scope mounted on my M21 properly:

I plan to grab some of Tom's gun stock wax to rub on to the wood stock next.

Also, first REAL cleaning of the gun since buying it from my friend. Points to anyone who knows what the green goo is:

You're making me want a Mini 14 again

 

[RampantAndroid]

You're making me want a Mini 14 again

Come to the dark side. Skip a mini14 and get a M1A (which is what I posted. The Springfield M21 is a super-match M1A.)

 

[slugg]

I went back to the range and this time *rented* all of the single stack 9mm subcompacts. I was really surprised by a few of the guns. Here's a recap on just a few, but I literally tried all of te single stack 9s we mentioned in this thread:

- P938 - really cool and awesome, but it didn't agree with the shape of my hand. My natural grip kept pushing up on the safety and slide lock, which is a problem I don't have with any other gun. I really wanted to love this gun, as it's definitely the coolest one, but I didn't sing to me.

- Beretta Nano - I hated it. I hate the rubber-band-trigger, ridiculously high bore axis, and I just wasn't accurate with it.

- Kahr PM9 - not bad. The trigger is interesting. I'm not a fan of long trigger pulls and resets, but as far as those go, this is the best.

- S&W Shield 9mm - this was a major surprise. I was expecting unicorn farts every time I pulled the trigger, judging by the way people praise and hype the gun. It was just okay. I also didn't like the sight alignment, but I ignored that and chalked it up to being a beat up rental.

- Springfield XDS 9mm 3.3 - this was the biggest surprise. Even though this gun is one of the shortest in height out of all the ones I tried, since the trigger guard is undercut pretty aggressively, I can actually fit my pinky on the lip of the flush magazine, effectively making it a "3 finger gun" for me, even when in the most concealable configuration. I was also the most accurate with this gun, which is a surprise because the PM9 has a match grade barrel. The trigger was great, too.

Although the XDS is not the smallest, it's still pretty small, and it shrinks when you actually handle it. That is, it looks deceptively huge, but it's actually smaller than the Shield in all dimensions but one; the overall length. It's about 1/8th inch longer. That's fine with me.

So needless to say, I'm sold on the XDS. I went ahead and ordered one online; I'll post pics when I get it. Free shipping, so I'm assuming it'll be a couple weeks. Also, it turns out I can get 3 extra mags and some other goodies for free after rebate, so I'll end up with 5 mags, a holster, and some other stuff for $510. Not bad. I went into this ready to pay whatever I need to pay to have a gun that works for me, but $510 is pretty damn good, considering I almost went with a P938.